^.jmmf. 


THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 

OF  CALIFORNIA 

IRVINE 


In  Memory  of 

JAMES  RAMSEY  ULLMAN 

A  Gift  of 

EDWARD  MITTELMAN 
MEMORIAL  FOUNDATION 


RUWENZORI 


THE  TRANSLATION  FROM    THE  ITALIAN    HAS   BEEN    MADE  BY 
CAROLINE   DE  FILIPPI,   nh  FITZGERALD. 


THE    ILLUSTRATIONS    ARE    FROM    PHOTOGRAPHS   TAKEN    BY 
VITTORIO  SELLA,   MEMBER  OF  THE  EXPEDITION. 


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en 


RUWENZORI 

AX    ACCOUNT    OF    THE    EXPEDITION 

OF 

H.R.H. 
PRINCE   LUIGI    AMEDEO    OF   SAVOY 

DUKE     OF     THE     ABRUZZI 


FILIPPO    DE    FILIPPI.    F.R.G.S. 

With  a    Preface    by 

H.R.H. 
THE    DUKE    OF    THE    ABRUZZI 


NEW    YORK 

E.     P.     BUTTON     AND     COMPANY 

29   West   2 3RD   Street 

1908 


h/ 


In  the  spelling  of  the  native  names  the  usage  established  l)y  the  Royal 
Geographical  Society  has  been  followed. 

The  royalties  on  the  sale  of  this  book  will  be  given  to  a  Fund  for  the 
Relief  of  Italian  Emigrants. 


2)c^icate^ 

BY   PERMISSION 

TO     HEE     MAJESTY 

THE     QUEEN    DOWAaER    OF    ITALY 

MARaHERITA    DI     SAVOIA. 


PREFACE. 


This  book  contains  a  detailed  account 
of  the  expedition  which  I  led  from 
April  to  September  of  1906,  to 
explore  the  snow  range  of  Ruwen- 
zori,  upon  the  borders  of  Congo 
and  Uganda,  in  the  centre  of 
Equatorial  Africa. 

The  book  includes  the  data  of 
observations,  and  all  the  facts 
upon  which  the  geographical  and 
scientific  results  of  the  expedition 
are  based.  These  results  I  have 
already  given  in  outline  in  my  lectures  before  the  Italian 
Geographical  Society  and  the  Royal  Geographical  Society, 
which  were  subsequently  published  in  the  "  Bollettino "  and 
"  The  Geographical  Journal." 

I  had  not  at  my  disposal  the  time  requisite  for  writing 
myself  a  full  account  of  this  journey.  My  companions  were, 
for  various  reasons,  equally  unable  to  undertake  the  task. 
Cav.  Filippo  De  Filippi  had  already  published  an  accurate  and 
painstaking  account  of  a  previous  exploration,  in  which  he  liad 
been  one  of  my  companions.  It,  therefore,  occurred  to  me  to 
request  him  to  write  the  story  of  the  Ruwenzori  Expedition 
from  our  notes  and  journals. 


Preface. 

The  task  was  difficult,  even  with  the  help  of  Cav.  Uff. 
Vittorio  Bella's  splendid  photographs,  which,  in  a  measure, 
filled  out  tlie  bare  outlines  of  our  diaries.  I,  therefore,  take 
this  opportunity  of  expressing  my  deep  sense  of  obligation  to 
Cav.  Filippo  De  Filippi,  and  of  recording  the  pleasure  given 
me  by  his  acceptance  of  my  proposal. 

To  this  volume,  which  contains  a  narrative  of  the  journey 
and  of  the  actual  exploration  work  of  the  expedition,  together 
Avith  the  meteorological  and  astronomical  notes,  will  be  added 
a  second  volume,*  containing  the  geological  and  mineralogical 
report  of  Dr.  A.  E-occati,  together  with  reports  upon  the 
zoological  and  botanical  specimens  brought  back  by  us. 

I  must  here  tender  my  thanks  to  all  the  distinguished 
men  of  science  who  have  collaborated  in  the  study  and 
illustration  of  our  collections. 


(yO'^^^^^  ^ 


Gt— «.9— 1.^« 


Rome, 

Ai^ril,   1908. 


*  Published  in   Italian  only— U.   Hoq»li,   Milan. 
viii 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

CHAPTER  I. 

The  Discovery  and  previous  Explorations  of  Ruwenzori.         .        1 

CHAPTER  H. 
Preparation  and    Departure  of  the  Expedition    from  Italy. 


From  Naples  to  Entebbe 


20 


CHAPTER  HI. 
From  Entebbe  to  Fort  Portal 57 

CHAPTER  IV. 

From  Fort  Portal  to  Bujongolo — Mobuku  Valley    .        .        .100 

CHAPTER  V. 
Peaks  at  the  Head  of  Mobuku  Valley 138 

CHAPTER  VI. 
Peaks  of  the  Central  Group 1G5 

CHAPTER  VII. 
Formation  and  General  Features  of  the  Ruwenzori  Range     .     193 

CHAPTER  VIII. 
Exploration  of  Mt.  Speke  and  Mt.  Emin 231 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Further  Ascents  on  Mts.  Stanley,  Luigi  di  Savoia  and  Baker. 

Work  at  Bujongolo 241 

CHAPTER  X. 

Exploration  of  the  Bujuku  Valley  and  of  Mt.  Gessi.    Return 

OF  the  Expedition 260 


Contents. 


ArrEXDTX   A. 

PAGE 

The   MorxTAixs  of  the   Moox  of  Ptolemy's  Geoguaphy  and  the 

RuwENZoKi   I\ax(;e 287 


APPEXDIX   B. 

Astroxomic,  Geodetic  axd  Meteorological  Observations     .        .     303 

I. — Report  on  Astronomic  Observations       ....     307 

11. — Geodetic   Observations 353 

III. — Eeport    ox   Meteorological    axd    Altimetric    Observa- 

Tioxs 361 

APPEXDIX  C. 

CoxTAixs    A    Summary    of    the    Geological,   Petrographic,  axd 

MiNERALOGICAL     ObSERVATIOXS    WHICH    WERE     MADE     BY    H.R.H. 

THE  Duke  of  the  Abruzzi's  PiUwenzori  Expedition,  together 
WITH  A  List  of  the  New  Zoological  and  Botanical  Genera 
AND  Species  collected  in  the  Rl^venzori  Regions  .        .        .381 

Summary  of  the  Geological  Observations  made  in 
Uganda  axd  in  the  Ruwenzori  Range  during  the 
Expedition  of   H.R.H.  the  Duke  of  the  Abruzzi       .     382 

I.— Uganda 382 

II. — Ruwenzori  Range 388 

Alphabetic  List  of  the  Minerals  collected  in   the  Ruwenzori 

Range 394 

Zoology,  New   Genera,   Species    and    Sub-species    collected   by 

the  Expedition  of  H.R.H.  the  Duke  of  the  Abruzzi  .        .     394 

Summary  of  the   Plants  collected  by  the  Expedition   of  the 

Duke  of  the  Abruzzi  ox  the  Ruwenzori   Range.        .        .     397 

Magnetic  Observations 403 

Index 405- 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Tusks  Confiscated  by  the  Government,  Uganda 
Xative  Hut  in   Uganda.         .... 

Caravan  on  the  March  ..... 

Native  Porters,  Uganda         .... 

Porters'  Hut,  Uganda    ..... 

A    Camp        ....... 

Xative  Chief  with  his  P^amily,  Uganda . 
A  Chief's  Daughters  of  Bahima  Stock . 
Xative  Market  in  Uganda     .... 

Incense  Tree  (T)     . 

Mombasa — Port  Kilindini      .... 

Mombasa — Portuguese  Fort  .... 

The  Uganda  Eailway    ..... 

Sugar-Cane  Vendors       ..... 

At  a  Eailway  Station    ..... 

Port  Florence         ...... 

The  IVinifred  alongside  the  Pier  in  Port  Florence 

Natives  going  to  Market,  Kisumu 

A  Shed  in  the  Market  Place,  Kisumu 

Kavirondo  Women 

Kisumu  Market 

Kisumu  Market 

"Within  the  Enclosure  of  the 

Banana  Sellers,  Kisumu 

Off  Rusinga  Island 

Xative  Canoe  with  the  Prow 

Among  the  Sesse  Islands 

Xapoleon  Bay,  Lake  Victoria 

Shores  of  Lake  Victoria,  near  Kampala 

Botanical  Gardens,  Entebbe  . 

Governor's  House,  Entebbe    . 


Market,  Kisumu 


of  Peace 


PAGE 

3 

•5 

7 

9 
12 
U 
16. 
18 
22 
23 
26 
27 
28 
29 
3a 
31 
32 
33 
34 
35 
37 
38 
39 
41 
42 
4S 
45 
46 
48 
49 
51 


Illustrations. 


Market,  Entebl)e    .         .         .         .         .         . 

Market,  Entebbe    ...... 

In  the  Courtyard  of  the  Equatorial  Hotel,  Entebbe 
Native  Huts  and  Plantains   .... 

General  View  of  Entebbe      .... 

Shed  in  the  jNIarket,  Entebbe 

Native  Huts,  Entebbe    ..... 

The  Kampala  Road,  Entebbe 

Hanging  Nests  on  the  Leaves  of  a  Palm 

A  Road  in  Uganda 

Native  Hut   . 

A  Hilly  F.it  of  Road    . 

Across  the  Marshes 

Papyri  and  Water  Lilies 

Elephant  Grass 

The  Native  Path  . 

In  the  Tropical  Forest 

Between  Swamp  and  Forest 

Plantain  (^roves 

Baganda  A\'()nien  . 

Baganda 

Baganda  Women  . 

Pawpaw  Tree 

Porters'  Huts 

Building  a  Hut 

Visit  of  a  Chief  with  his  Court,  l)iinging  Presents 

Dancing  in  the  Porter's  Camp 

Wrestling  Match  among  the  Porters 

Native  Band  ...... 

Between  Entebl)e  and  Fort   Poital 

Camp  at  Bujongo  ..... 

Camp  at  Katende  ...... 

Ruwenzori  seen  from  Butiti  .... 

Near  Butiti,  with  Ruwenzori  in  the  background 
Forest  between  Butiti  and  Foit  Portal 
The  Caravan  on  the  March  .... 


Xll 


Illustrations. 


and 


Kasongo 


Oil  the  Pul)lic  Square,  Fort  Portal 
Native  Hut   ..... 
:\Iarket,  Fort  Portal 
Hills  near  Fort  Portal  . 

Fort  Portal 

King  Kasagama  and  his  Couit 

Near  Fort  Portal  .... 

^Yomen  at  Camp  Duwona     . 

Acacias  on  the  Eoad  between  Duwona 

Between  Duwona  and  Kasongo 

Ford  of  Wimi  River 

The  Snow  Peaks  of  Ruwenzori,  seen  fr 

Mt.  Speke  (the  Duwoni  of   Johnston)  seen  from  the  Lower  Mobuku 

Valley     . 
Ford  of  Mobuku  Eiver 
Ford  of  Mobuku  River 
Ibanda    . 

The  Portal  Peaks  on  the  way  up  to  Bihimga 
Building   Sheds,    Ibanda 
Hillside,  below   Bihunga 
Bihunga 


om  the  Hima  Valley 


Forest  above  Bihunga 


the  Mahoma 


Forest  at  the  Mouth  of 
Tree-Ferns 
Kichuchu 

Lobelias  in  the  Heath  Forest 
The  Heath  Forest 
"Waterfall  at  Buamba 
Bujongolo 

The  Kiyanja  of  Johnston  from  Bujong 
Upper  Gorge  of  the  Mobuku  Valley 
Eastern  Peaks  of  Mt.  Baker,  seen  from  Edward  Peak 
Mt.  Stanley  and  Mt.  Baker,  taken  from  the  Stairs  Peak  of 
di  Savoia        ........ 

The  Highest  Peaks  and  Lake  Bujuku,  seen  from  Grauer's 
Mt.  Baker  (the  Kiyanja  of  Johnston)  seen  from  the  West 


olo 


Mt. 


Rock 


Luii 


PAGE 
101 

102 
10.3 
104 
10.5 
107 
108 
110 
111 
112 
114 
115 

116 

117 

118 

120 

121 

122 

123 

125 

126 

127 

128 

130 

131 

133 

135 

139 

141 

U3 

147 

149 
151 
153 


xui 


Illustrations. 


Biijongolo 

Heath  Forest  below  Biijongolo 

RIt.  Cagni  seen  from  Biijongolo    ..... 

Mt.  Stanley  seen  from  Freshfield's  Col 

Lake  to  the  West  of  Mt.  Baker — Charred  Senecios 

The  Upper  Lake  in  the  Valley  to  the  "West  of  Mt.  Baker 

Head  of  the  Valley  to  the  West  of  Mt.  Baker    . 

Camp  IV — Close  to  the  Elena  Glacier  .... 

Alexandra  and  Margherita  Peaks  from  the  Stanley  Plateau 

Climbing  the  South-east  Ridge  of  Ale.xandra  Peak 

Climbing  Alexandra  Peak 

Elena  and  Savoia  Peaks  as  seen  from  the  Stanley  Glacier 
Elena  and  Savoia  Peaks  from  the  Ridge  above  Camp  IV 

Camp  near  Scott  Elliot's  Pass 

Mt.  Luigi  di  Savoia  seen  from  the  South  Ridge  of  Edward  Peak 

Mt.  Luigi  di  Savoia  seen  from  the  South  Ridge  of  Edward  Peak 

Mt.  Stanley  from  the  Edward  Peak  of  Mt.  Baker 

l^orth-west  Shoulder  of  Margherita  Peak      .         .         .         . 

Mt.  Stanley  from  the  "West,  from  a  photograph  taken  in   the   Butagu 

Valley  by  Dr.  F.  Stuhlmann  .... 

Western  Side  of  Alexandra  Peak  .... 

Moebius  Peak  from  the  West 

The   Foot   of   the  Glaciers   flowing   West   of   Alexandra   and  Moebius 

Peaks      ......... 

Mt.  Luigi  di  Savoia  seen  from  the  Upper  Butagu  Valley 

Savoia  Peak  taken  from  Alexandra  Peak;  Mt.  Luigi  di  Savoia  in  the 

Background 

The  Chain  of  Ruwenzori  seen  from  Butiti  after  a  Tele-photograph  b} 

V.  Sella 

Senecio  and  Helichrysum  in  the  Upper  Butagu  Valley 
Lobelia  Deckeni,  Senecio  and  Tree-Heaths    . 

Lobelia  in  Flower 

Senecio  and  Lobelia  Stuhlmanni 

Camp  IV— Close  to  the  Elena  Glacier  .... 

Mt.  Speke  seen  from  the  Senecio  Forest  at  the  P'oot  of  Scott  Elliot's  Col 

T^It.  Speke  from  the  Stanley  Plateau 


PAGE 

156 
1.57 
161 
167 
169 
173 
176 
177 
179 
180 
181 
183 
187 
188 
190 
191 
200 
201 

206 
207 
208 

209 
210 

211 

213 
222 
224 
226 
228 
232 
235 
238 


Illustrations. 


to   Fresh- 


Mt.  Emin  seen  from  the  lolanda  Glacier      ...... 

Climbing  the  Alexandra  Peak 

Moebius  Peak  from  the  South-east  Ridge  of  the  Alexandra  Peak 
Savoia,  Elena  and  Moeluus  Peaks,  and  Mt.  Luigi  di  Savoia  seen  from 

the  South-east  Ridge  of  the  Alexandra  Peak  .... 

Fresh  Snow  on  Freshfi eld's  Pass 

Mt.  Stanley  from  Freshfield's  Col  .... 

Mt.  Luigi  di  Savoia  from  Freshfield's  Col     . 

The  South  Ridge    of    Edward    Peak    and    the    Camp    close 

field's  Pass      ........ 

Porters  in  Camp  at  Ibauda  ...... 

The  Bujuku  Valley 

Cam}}  IX,  Bujuku  Valley      ...... 

Mt.  Gessi  from  the  Edward  Peak  of  Mt.  Baker  . 
The  Bujuku  Torrent      ....... 

Giant  Tree  in  the  Lower  Bujuku  Valley 

Ibanda  .......... 

Baganda  Village     ........ 

Crater  Lake  Kaitabaroga,  near  Fort  Portal    . 

Back  again  on  the  Shores  of  Lake  Victoria 

Ripon  Falls    ......... 

Head  of  the  Victoria  Nile 


PAGE 

241 
245 
246 

248 
249 
250 
251 

252 
262 
265 
267 
269 
271 
273 
274 
275 
276 
277 
283 
285 


LIST    OF    PLATES. 

Sunset  on  Victoria  Nyanza.     Coloured  Plate,  from  the 

painting  by  A.  Fitzgerald 
Banana  Plantation  and  Hut  near  Fort  Portal. 

The  Tropical  Forest 

From  Entebbe  to  Fort  Portal.     (Section) 
Wooded  Valley  between  Entebbe  and  Fort  Portal 
View  between  Entebbe  and  Fort  Portal.     Panorama 
Papyrus  Swamp  between  Entebbe  and  Fort  Portal 
View  of  Ruwenzori  from  a  hill  near  Kaibo     . 
Tropical  Forest  near  Fort  Portal    .... 
Nakitawa 


Frontispiece. 
To  face  page  65 
69 
71 
81 
85 
87 
93 
97 
121 


List  of  Plates. 


The  Heath  Forest 

The  ^lobuku  River  in  the  Heath  Forest 
Flowers  on  the  Terrace  of  Buamba 

Bakonjo  Porters 

Panorama  taken  from  Grauer's  Rock,  Mt.  Baker      . 
Upper  end  of  the  Mobuku  Valley  .... 

Panorama  taken  from  Stairs  Peak,  Mt.  Luigi  di  Savoia 
Bujongolo      ........ 

Valle}'  to  the  ^\'est  of  Mt.  Baker   .... 

Valley  to  the  West  of  Mt.  Baker   .... 

The  Highest  Peaks 

Alexandra  Peak  from  the  South,  showing  the  South-East 

Ridge     ........ 

Margherita  Peak  from  Alexandra  Peak  . 

Mt.  Stanley 

In  the  Senecio  Forest     ...... 

Senecio  Forest  to  the  West  of  Freshfield's  Col. 

Mt.  Speke  from  Edward  Peak,  Mt.  Baker 

Mt.  Liiigi  di  Savoia  taken  from  King  Edward's  Peak, 

.Mt.  Baker       .... 

Mt.  Cagni 

Lake  Bujnku  and  ^It.  Stanley 

Panorama  taken  from  lolanda  Peak,  Mt.  Gessi 

Bujuku  Valley        .... 


PAGE 

To  face  page 

125 

)5 

129 

)5 

133 

5) 

141 

'? 

143 

5) 

147 

)5 

153 

?5 

159 

5) 

167 

»> 

171 

>) 

177 

5J 

181 

5> 

185 

)> 

201 

)) 

229 

5) 

235 

J5 

239 

>> 

247 

?J 

257 

>> 

265 

5J 

269 

5J 

273 

MAPS. 

The  Valley  System  of  the  Ruwenzori  Range  . 
Map  of  Angles  measured  in  the  Ruwenzori  Chain  . 
Route  of  the  Expedition  from  Mombasa  to  Ruwenzori 
The  Peaks,  Passes  and  Glaciers  of  Ruwenzori 
Geological  Map  of  the  Central  Group  of  Ruwenzori 


To  face  page     203 
355 

End  of  Vol. 


CHAPTER    I. 
The  Discovery  and  previous  Explorations  of  Ruwenzori. 

Stanley's  first  sight  of  the  Snow-peaks — Ruwenzori  and  the  "  Mountains  of  the 
Moon "  of  Ptolemy — Discussions  and  Dissensions  between  Geographers — 
Exploration  of  Stairs,  Stuhlmann  and  Scott  Elliot — Moore  discovers  the 
Glaciers  at  the  head  of  the  Mobuku  Valley — Repeated  attempts  to  climb  the 
Mountains  from  the  Mobuku  Valley — Ascent  made  by  David  upon  the 
western  slope — British  Museum  Expedition — First  peaks  ascended — What 
was  known  about  Ruwenzori  in  the  beginning  of  1906. 


Ox  the  24th  of  May,  II 
Henry  Stanley,  in  the  midst  of 
liis  lono-est  and  most  venturesome 
African  journey,  while  crossing  the 
narrow  strip  of  coast  which  forms 
the  south-west  bankof  Lake  Albert 
Nyanza,  between  Nsabe  and 
Badzwa,  beheld  for  the  first  time 
the  snowy  peaks  of  Ruwenzori  : 
"  When  about  five  miles  from 
Nsabe  camp,  while  looking  to  the 
south-east  and  meditating  upon 
the  events  of  the  last  month,  my 
eyes  were  attracted  by  a  boy  to  a  mountain,  said  to  be  covered 
with  salt,  and  I  saw  a  peculiar-shaped  cloud  of  a  most  beautiful 
silver  colour  which  assumed  the  proportions  and  appearance  of  a 

1  B 


Chapter  T. 

vast  inouiitain  coveicd  with  snow.  Followintjj  its  form  downward, 
I  became  struck  with  tlie  deep  hlue-l)lack  colour  of  its  ])ase.  and 
wondered  if  it  porteiidtnl  another  tornado  ;  then,  as  the  sight 
descended  to  the  ^ap  hetween  the  eastern  and  western  plateaux,- 
T  became  for  the  tirst  time  conscious  that  what  I  gazed  upon  was 
not  the  image  or  send)lance  of  a  vast  mountain,  but  the  solid 
substance  of  a  real  one,  with  its  summit  covered  with  snow." 

"  Ruwenzori  "  is  the  one  among  many  native  names  by  \\liich, 
in  Stanlev's  opinion,  the  mountain  is  most  widely  known  in  the 
surrounding  region. 

Of  all  the  explorers  who  in  the  preceding  twenty  years  had 
travelled  throuirli  these  reo;ions  and  sailed  u])on  the  waters  of 
the  lakes  at  the  foot  of  the  chain,  not  one  had  suspected  the 
near  presence  of  vast  tracts  of  eternal  ice  and  snow  hidden  from 
all  eves  in  tlie  imj^enetrable  cloak  of  cloud  and  mist. 

In  1804,  Sir  Samuel  Baker  had  given  the  name  of  "Blue 
Mountains"  to  the  vast  shapes  faintly  seen  looming  through  the 
mists  of  the  plain  to  the  south  of  the  Albert  Nyanza.  He  did 
not,  however,  form  anv  adeipiate  conception  of  their  real 
proportions. 

Stanlt^v  himself  in  the  December  of  1875.  wlien  actually 
encamped  upon  the  eastern  slopes  of  tlit^  cliain.  relates,  l)ut 
without  eonnnent.  the  descriptions  given  by  the  natives  of  the 
shining  white  colour  and  intense  cold  of  ])eaks  which  lie  could 
not  see  but  which  were  said  to  be  towering  above  liim. 

Sir  Harrv  Johnston  mentions  certain  private  letters  written 
in  1876  bv  Romolo  Gessi  during  his  first  complete  exploration  of 
the  shores  of  the  Albert  Nyanza.  In  these  letters  mention  is 
made  of  a  strange  \'ision  winch  the  writ(M-  saw  in  the  skv.  as  if 
of  mountains  covered  with  snow.  Possibly  lie  asciibed  this 
vision  to  an  hallucination.       The  fict   remains  that  the  discovery 

2 


The  Discovery  of  Ruwenzori. 

of  limvenzori  was  reserved  neither  I'or  him,  nor  for  Eniiii  Pasha, 
or  Mason,  both  of  whom  subsequently  visited  the  lake. 


TUSKS   CONFISCATED    BY    THE    (iOVERXMEXT,    UGAXDA. 

Stanley  is  probably  right  in  attril)iitino-  tlie  extraordinary 
lack  of  atmospheric  transparency,  wliich  renders  these  moun- 
tains invisible  even  in  fair  weather,  to  vapours  exhaled 
from  the  surrounding  jjlains  and  exposed  to  tlie  heat  of  the 
tropical  sun.  Occasionally  a  breeze  sweeps  away  these  vapours. 
At  such  times,  as  if  bv  mao-ic,  the  snow-clad  rano-es  loom  into 
sio^ht  only  to  vanish  ao-ain  and  leave  the  onlooker  in  doubt  and 
uncertainty  as  to  the  actual  reality  of  the  magnificent  vision 
vouchsafed  to  him. 

The  discovery  of  tiiis  vast  system  of  snow  moujitains 
shedding  their  waters  into  lakes,  whence  one  of  the  greatest 
Nile  branches  takes  its  origin,  finally  brought  to  an  end  that 
quest  after  the  sources  of  the  classic  river  which  had  played 
so    large  a  part  in  the    history  of   geographical    investigation. 

3  B  2 


Chapter  I. 

After  a  lapse  of  twenty-four  centuries  the  verse  of  Aeschyhis — ■ 
"  Egypt  nurtiu'ed  hy  the  snow  " — once  more  receives  its  hteral 
signification.  The  "  Mountain  of  Silver "  (dpyvpovu  opos),  the 
source  of  the  Nile,  according  to  Aristotle,  is  at  last  revealed. 
Strange  indeed  are  the  vicissitudes  of  human  knowledge. 

This  classical  tradition  of  the  Nile  issuino;  from  vast  lakes 
fed  hv  s^()^^•v  mountains  was  tenaciously  preserved  througli 
sul)sequent  history.  We  find  it  repeated  in  the  description 
of  the  "  Movmtains  of  the  Moon "  taken  by  Ptolemy,  with 
modifications  of  his  own,  from  the  writings  of  Marinus  of  Tyre. 
The  same  storv  recurs  in  the  writings  and  maps  of  Arab 
geographers  in  tlie  Middle  Ages;  and  again  in  the  works  of 
Western  European  compilators,  such  as  the  Prior  of  Neuville 
les  Dames  and  Alphonse  de  Saintorge.  In  fact,  notwith- 
standing the  absolute  lack  of  any  confirmation  of  their 
existence,  these  mountains  and  lakes,  indicated  with  uncertain 
forms  and  doubtful  and  varying  geographical  situation,  never 
wholly  disappeared  from  oui-  maps  of  Africa  up  to  the  time 
of  their  actual  discovery. 

The  belief  in  snow-clad  mountains  at  the  sources  of  the  Nile 
had  persisted  with  peculiar  tenacity  among  the  natives  of  the 
East  Coast.  Possibly  it  received  fresh  confirmation  from  time 
to  time  through  news  gathered  from  the  caravans  which  brought 
ivory  and  slaves  from  the  interior.  Burton,  Speke  and  Baker 
heard  it  again  and  again,  and  witli  })Ositive  affirmation,  Ijotli 
from  the  Arabs  and  from  the  natives  of  Zanzibar. 

The  discovery  of  Mt.  Kenya  and  Mt.  Kilimandjaro  by  the 
German  missionaries  Krapf  and  Kebmann  in  1848-4'J  seemed 
for  the  time  to  settle  the  question.  These  mountains,  how- 
ever, are  connected  neither  witli  the  lakes  nor  witli  the  Nile. 
In  1861  Speke  believed  that  lie  liad  discovered  the  '"  Mountains 

4 


The  Discovery  of  Huwenzori. 

of  the  Moon  "  in  the  volcanic  chain  which  stretches  between 
Lake  Kivn  and  Lake  Albert  Edward,  more  especially  in 
the     highest     of    the     volcanic     peaks,     Mt.     Nfnnibiro ;      but 


NATIVE    HUT   IN    UGANDA. 


none  of  these  mountains  are  covered  with  snow.  Stanley 
had  certainly  far  stronger  grounds  for  his  opinion  that  tlie 
"  Mountains  of  the  Moon "  of  Ptolemy  are  to  be  identihed 
M^th  Ptuwenzori,  which  alone  answers  in  all  essential  points  to 
the  descriptions  of  the  ancient  geographers.  It  consists  of  a 
vast  mountain  range  covered  with  everlasting  ice  and  snow  and 
shedding  its  waters  into  the  basin  of  the  Upper  Nile  from 
all  its  slopes.      Rising,  as  it  does,  out  of  tlie  midst  of  a  tropical 

5 


Chapter  I. 

landscape,  it  fbrins  a  spectacle  at  once  so  imposing  and  so  un- 
expected as  to  strike  the  imagination  of  tliose  who  ])ehold  it 
more  forcibly  than  any  other  feature  of  the  whole  region,  and 
so  impresses  itself  upon  their  memory  as  not  to  be  effiiced  by 
any  subsecpient  yicissitude  or  experience  of  their  journey. 

The  opinion  of  Stanley,  howeyer,  met  with  numerous 
opponents,  inchiding  a  number  of  competent  geographers. 

The  German  explorer,  Dr.  ().  Baumaim,  discoyered  the 
sources  of  the  Kaorera,  the  o-reatest  tributary  of  tlie  Victoria 
Nyanza,  in  the  mountains  of  Missossi  ya  Mwesi,  in  Urundi,  a 
district  situated  to  the  north-east  of  Lake  Tanganika.  Tliese 
he  considered  to  be  the  momitains  mentioned  l)y  Ptolemy  : 
Missossi  ya  Mwesi  does,  as  a  matter  of  fact,  mean  literally 
"  Mountains  of  the  Moon."  The  s\n-ro\niding  comitry  is  called 
Charo  cha  Mwesi,  whieli  means  "  Land  of  the  Moon."  At  the 
same  time  tlie  Katjera.  which  had  been  called  by  Stanley  the 
Alexandra  Nile,  may  certainly  be  counted  as  the  southernmost 
and  one  of  the  principal  sources  of  tlie  Eastern  Nile. 

Li  England  the  theory  of  Dr.  Baumann,  in  its  general 
outline,  has  been  accepted  by  Sir  Clements  Markham.  Nt^ither, 
indeed,  has  failed  to  recognize  the  objection  that  the  small 
importance  and  low  altitude  of  the  Missossi  ya  Mwesi  scarcely 
justify  so  far-reaching  a  celebrity.  The  natives  of  the  Unyamwesi 
are  certainly  unconscious  of  the  existence  of  the  ''Mountains 
of  the  Mooii  ill  their  country.  Years  ag(»,  in  fact.  Speke  heard 
from  them  a  tah^  of  a  in;ir\'elloHs  mountain  situated  t»»  the 
north  of  Kasagwe,  a  region  to  the  west  of  the  Victoria  Nyanza. 
This  mountain  \\  as  said  to  be  so  high  and  so  steep  that  wo 
one  could  ever  possibly  ascend  it.  and  t(»  be  larely  visible 
because  it  soaretl  u})  into  the  clouds  from  which  a  pure  white 
substance  was  wont  to  fall  upon  it. 


The  Discovery  of  Kuwenzoii. 

Other  geographers,  such  as  Hans  Meyer  and  Raveusteiii, 
attempted  to  prove  that  Ptolemy  meant  to  indicate  the 
mountains  which  form  and  encircle  the  Abyssinian  tahleland. 
In  the  ^'  Proceedings  of  the  lloyal  Geographical  Society"  for 
1901  (}).  513),  may  be  found  an  interesting  discussion  which 
followed  the  lecture  of  H.  Schlichter  on  this  suljject. 

The  Italian  geographer  Prof  L.  Hugues  has  contributed  a 
note*  on  this  question.  He  has  attempted  to  bring  the  limited 
knowledo-e  which  was  attainable  in  the  davs  of  Ptolemv  as  to 
the  geographical  position  of  both  the  lakes  and  the  momitains 
into  harmonv  with  the  more  precise  information  at  our 
command  at  the  present  day,  by  taking  into  accomit  errors  in 
the  mensuration  of  lono;itude  and  latitude  inevitable  at  the 
earlier  period.  The  conclusi(^ns  at  Avliieli  he  arrives  are 
entirelv  in  favour  of  Stanlevs  view. 


CARAVAN    ox    THE    MAKCII. 


*  See  Appendix  A. 

7 


Chapter  I. 

Stulilmami,  Scott  Elliot,  Moore,  Johnston  and,  in  fact,  all 
the  others  who  have  visited  and  explored  the  range  of 
Ruwenzori  after  Stanley,  have  accepted  his  interpretation  of 
PtoltMn3'"s  text.  Indeed,  nnless  we  admit  that  the  ancient 
geographers  must  liave  had  in  one  way  or  another  some 
concealed  source  of  information  as  to  the  facts,  we  find  our- 
selves under  the  necessity  of  regarding  them  as  gifted  with 
prophetic  powers.  Be  that  as  it  may,  the  legend  of  the 
"  Mountahis  of  the  Moon"  is  a  tale  of  the  past,  and 
Ruwenzori,  estahlished  at  last  in  its  own  exact  place  on  the 
map,  known  in  all  the  details  of  its  structure,  measured  in 
every  dimension,  no  longer  runs  the  risk  of  l)eing  lost  from 
the   memoi'v  of  man. 

We  will  now  return  to  the  story  of  its  exploration. 

On  the  1st  of  June,  1888,  after  his  first  sight  of  the  snow-clad 
summits  of  Ruwenzori,  Henry  Stanley  Tvas  forced  to  retm-n  on 
his  track,  and,  re-crossitig  the  vast  forest  of  the  Congo,  to  join 
his  rear-guard  camp,  where  one  of  the  ghastliest  tragedies 
recorded  in  the  history  of  African  exploration  had  taken  place 
in  his  absence. 

He  (hd  not  return  to  RuwtMizori  niitil  tlie  next  year,  1889, 
when  lie  skirted  thi'  whole  western  slo])e  of  the  range.  He 
then  tra\'ersed  the  plain  between  Lake  Allx'rt  Kdward  and  the 
mountains,  and,  turning  northw  ards.  followiMl  their  (^astern  slopes 
as  far  as  the  head  of  Lak«^  Kuisamba.  He  thus  spent  more  than 
three  months,  from  April  to.Iulv.  in  the  innnediate  neighbourhood 
of  the  range,  and  saw  the  snowv  ])eaks  agani  and  again. 
Wishino"  to  eatlier  more  accni'ate  knowledii-e  of  the  shai)e  and 
structure  of  these  niountanis.  he  dispatched  Lieutenant 
W.  G.  Stairs  on  a  jouinev  of  exploration  among  them. 

Lieutenant  Stairs  left  tliec.inipof  l)akokoi-o,  :),Sl)()  feet  above 


The  Discovery  of  Kuwenzori. 

the  sea-level,  aljoiit  the  heoiniuii^-  of  Jviiie.  He  followed  one  of 
the  north-western  valleys  of  tlie  cliain  for  two  (lavs,  steerino;  for 
two  rocky  peaks  of  a  strikhig  conical  shape  (Twin  CWies)  which 
had  l)een  marked  from  a  distance  on  tlie  nortli-west  extremity  of 
the  range.  He  reached  an  altitude  of  10,677  feet,  about 
1,500  feet  helow  the  rocky  peaks.  Here  he  came  in  sight  of  a 
snowy  peak  which  he  estimated  at  1G,600  feet,  hut  which  was 
not  the  highest  point. 

Lieutenant  Stairs  had  not  an  equipment  sufficient  to 
enable  Inm  to  remain  several  days  in  the  mountains.  He  was 
therefore  obliged  to  cut  his  exploration  short  and  descend  to 
the  plain.  From  the  appearance  and  shape  of  these  mountains 
he  tliouglit  it  possible  to  maintain  their  origin  to  be  volcanic. 


NA'rn'K  roitTKits,  Uganda. 


Chapter  I. 

Ill  tlie  inontli  of  December,  1899,  Stanley  at  last  tiiiislied  his 
ventiiresoiiR' jouniev  and  reached  Zanzibar  with  Kmin  Pasha  and 
his  followers.  A  few  months  later,  Emin  Pasha,  at  the  head  of 
a  German  expedition,  set  fortli  ag-ain  to  retnrn  to  the  eqnatorial 
lakes.  Abont  the  beginning  of  June,  1891,  he  found  himself  once 
more  on  the  westein  slojie  of  Ruwenzori,  encamped  at  Karevia, 
near  the  southern  course  of  the  Semliki  (Issango)  river. 

It  was  from  this  encampment,  4,364  feet  of  altitude,  that 
Dr.  F.  Stuhlmann,  one  of  the  members  of  the  expedition,  made  a 
fi\e  days'  excursion  up  the  valley  of  Butagu,  one  of  the  largest 
of  the  western  vallevs  of  the  chain.  He  reached  an  altitude  of 
13,32G  feet,  not  verv  far  from  the  snow,  in  sioiit  of  two  snowv 
mountains. 

He  was  oblicred  to  return,  owino'  to  his  limited  means  of 
transport  and  to  tlie  sufferings  of  the  natives  from  cold.  A  good 
naturalist,  a  first-rate  explorer  and  a  painstaking  observer, 
Stuhlmann  was  the  first  to  give  an  accurate  description  of  the 
successive  zones  of  vegetation  in  its  varvino'  forms  at  different 
altitudes.  He  proved  clearly  that  Ruwenzori  is  not  a  single 
mountain,  but  a  real  range.  He  distinguished  fonr  principal 
groups  to  wliich  he  gave,  proceeding  from  north  to  south,  the 
names  Kraepelin,  Moebius  (tlic  highest  peak  called  Kanjangungwe 
by  tlie  natives).  Semper  (Ngviiiw  inihi  of  the  natives),  and 
Weismanii.  He  was  able  to  })hotograph  two  of  these  groups 
from  the  upper  Butagu  Vallt-v.  He  also  showed  tliat  Stairs' 
suiTirestion  of  a  volcanic  oriiiiii  for  tlie  rauii^e  is  without 
foundation.  Strange  as  it  may  seem,  he  failed  to  recogm'ze  the 
presence  of  true  glaciers,  but  was  rather  inclined  to  regard  them 
as  mere  accumulations  of  snow. 

Stuhlmann  was  succeeded  in  the  exploration  of  Pnwcnzori 
l)y  the  naturalist  G.  F.  Scott  Elliot   in  the  years  1894-95.      He 

10 


The  Discovery  of  Ruwenzori. 

made  five  expeditions  by  vaiiuiis  routes  towards  the  summits, 
through  the  Yeria,  Wimi,  Mobuku,  and  Nyaniwaniba  Valleys  on 
the  eastern  sloije,  and  throno;h  the  Butao;u  Vallev  on  the  western 
slope.  He  pushed  his  way  u[)  to  tlie  heads  of  the  Yeria  and 
Wimi  Valleys,  and  reached  his  greatest  altitude  (13,000  feet)  in 
the  Butaofu  Vallev. 

Stricken  witli  malarial  fever,  lacking  means  of  transport, 
Scott  Elliot  gave  proof  of  admirable  tenacity,  but  was  unable 
to  o-ather  anv  data  regfardino-  the  reg-ion  of  the  snows.  His 
most  interestino-  observations  are  with  reo-ard  to  traces  of 
ancient  fflacier  action  in  the  vallevs  of  Mobuku,  Nvamwamba, 
and  Butagu,  wliich  prove  that  they  were  at  one  period 
filled  bv  vast  o-laciers.  Like  Stuhlmann,  he  excludes  all 
possibility  of  a  volcanic  origin  for  these  mountains.  The  most 
important  results  of  Scott  Elliot's  exploration  are  botanical. 

After  Scott  Elliot  we  liave  no  further  record  of  Ruwenzori 
for  five  years,  althougli  the  period  of  exploration  had  been 
succeeded  in  Uganda  by  the  period  of  European  occupation. 
The  whole  time  and  the  entire  energies  of  the  English  military 
and  civil  services  were  required  to  deal  with  serious  difiiculties, 
and  with  tlie  necessity  of  facing  dangerous  complications  whicli 
seemed  at  times  to  menace  the  very  existence  of  the  newly 
established  Protectorate.  It  was  necessary  to  depose  kings,  and 
to  put  down  revolts  with  such  means,  slender  and  insufficient  at 
best,  as  were  available  from  a  coast  several  months  journey 
distant. 

Tlius  we  reach  1900  without  any  further  addition  to  our 
knowledge  of  the  range.  In  the  spring  of  this  year  C.  S.  Moore, 
at  the  head  of  a  scientific  expedition  for  the  purpose  of  .studying 
the  fauna  of  the  great  lakes,  reached  the  eastern  .slopes  of 
Ruwenzori  with  the  intention  of  attempting  the  ascent. 

11 


Chapter  T. 

He  had  |)ur])()se(l  to  go  up  by  the  Nyannvaiiil)a  Valley, 
wliicli,  llo^\•evel■,  he  failed  to  reach  owiiii;-  to  tlie  hnpossibillty  of 
fordiiii;-  the  Kiver  Mobuku,  at  that  time  swollen  by  heavy  rains 
and  (|uite  impassable. 


PORTERS     HIT,    rf;AM>A. 


As  early  as  1894  Captain  (now  General  Sir  Frederick) 
Liigard  had  pointed  out  to  Scott  Elliot  tlie  Mobnkn  Valley  as 
the  best  ronte  bv  which  to  reach  the  snow.  C.  S.  Moore  now 
started  up  by  tliis  ronti',  taking  with  him  a  small  number  of 
Suahili  porters  besides  a  few  natives  of  tlie  vallev.  In  spite  of 
nnfavonrable  weather,  he  was  al)le  to  ascend  the  \alley  as  fir  as 
its  head,  and  discovertMl  f »r  tlie  first  time  the  glaciers  which 
encircle  its  upper  vwd.  lie  went  up  one  of  these  and  readied 
the  edge  of  the  terminal  ridge,  14,1)00  feet  above  sea-level. 

C.  S.  Moore  thus  gave  us  the  tirst  iri'efutable  proof  of  the 
existence  of  o'enuuie    ^lacieis    upon     Iluwcnzori.       lie    buther- 

12 


The  Discoveiy  of  Rawenzori. 

more  continned  Stuliliuauu  .s  de.scriijtloii  of  tlie  raiioe  recouuiziiii'' 
from  the  east  side  the  same  distrihutiou  of*  the  peaks  into  four 
principal  groups. 

Some  three  weeks  kiter,  Fergusson,  who  had  left  England 
with  Moore  hut  had  heen  delayed  by  fever  at  Fort  Gerrv  (noM' 
Fort  Portal),  proceeded  up  the  Mobuku  Valley  and  ascended 
the  glacier  to  the  height  of  14,600  feet. 

Shortly  after  Fergusson,  Bagge,  who  was  employed  in  the 
Civil  Service  of  the  Toro  district  and  had  already  made  an 
excm'sion  up  the  valley  of  the  Nyamwamba  as  far  as  the  bamboo 
zone,  pushed  up  the  Mobuku  Valley  and  reached  the  glacier. 
Bagge  had  a  rough  path  cut  by  the  natives  up  the  valley, 
which  proved  a  useful  guide  to  subsequent  explorers. 

Sir  Harry  Johnston,  High  Commissioner  of  the  Protectorate, 
accompanied  by  Messrs.  Doggett  and  Vale,  followed  this 
track  in  September  of  the  same  year.  His  choice  of  this 
route  was  determined  partly  by  the  relative  facility  with  which 
explorers  since  Moore  seemed  to  have  reached  the  glaciers,  and 
partly  by  his  conviction  that  the  principal  groups  of  the  range 
were  in  the  immediate  neighbourhood  of  the  head  of  the 
Mobuku  Valley.  Sir  Harry  Johnston's  expedition  reached  the 
glacier  and  ascended  to  a  height  of  14,828  feet,  but  was  unable 
to  reach  the  ridge. 

Johnston  rebaptized  tlie  peaks  under  the  names  given  them 
by  the  natives  of  those  valleys,  which  were,  of  course,  totally 
different  from  the  names  reported  by  Stuhlmann  from  the  west 
of  the  chain.  Tlius,  the  Ngemwimbi,  or  SemjDer  of  Stuhlmann, 
became  Kiyanja,  while  another  jjeak  visible  from  the  Mo1)uku 
Valley  received  the  name  of  Duwoni.  Johnston  succeeded  in 
taking  good  photographs  of  the  v^alley,  of  the  Mobuku  Glacier 
and  of  some  peaks.      He  gave  us  also  a  detailed  description  of 

13 


Chapter  I. 

the  flora  and  fauna  of  the  mountain  district.  Like  Scott  Elhot, 
he  noted  traces  of  glacial  action  in  the  Mobiiku  Valley,  about 
3,000  feet  below  the  point  wliere  is  now  tlie  snout  of  the 
glacier.  Like  all  Ins  predecessors,  he  complains  of  an  extra- 
ordinarv  persistence  of  liad  weather. 


A   CXMV. 


Thus  in  tlie  year  1900  alone  the  Mobuku  Valley  had  been 
explored  by  fom-  separate  parties. 

In  Auii'ust  of  the  following-  vear,  W.  H.  Wvlde  and  Ward 
went  up  the  valley  and  appear  to  have  reached  the  ridge  on  the 
top  of  the  glacier  at  the  same  altitude  wliicli  was  reached  by 
Moore,  about  15,000  feet.  During  tht-  two  following  years 
we  have  no  furtlier  reports  of  the  Mobuku  Valley  until  tlie 
expedition  of  the  Eev.  A.  R  Fislier,  who,  witli  his  wife,  in 
Januarv,  1903,  arrived  at  the  point  wliich  had  l)een  reached  by 
Sir  Harry  Johnston. 

14 


The  Discovery  of  Ruwenzori. 

The  geographical  periodical  '•  Gl()l)U.s,"  puljlished,  in  11)04, 
a  hrief  notice  of  an  ascent  on  the  chain  of  Ruwenzori  made  in 
April  of  that  year  hy  Dr.  J,  J.  David.  He  was  reported  to 
have  reached  an  altitude  of  about  1G,400  feet.  Two  vears  later 
the  "  BoUettino  "  of  the  Italian  Geographical  Society  published 
an  article  by  Revelli  on  Dr.  Davids  expedition  based  upon  liis 
own  notes.  David  had  chosen  the  route  of  the  Butagu  Valley 
to  the  west  of  the  chain  which  had  not  been  explored  since 
Scott  Elliot.  Ascending  a  tributary  valley  he  reached  the 
glaciers  in  seven  days.  Through  the  glaciers  he  reached  a  col, 
covered  with  ice,  upon  wliich  was  a  small  rocky  peak  of  gneiss 
about  150  feet  hioii.  From  here  he  was  able  to  see  the  vallevs 
descending  on  the  opposite  slope  towards  Uganda.  He  was 
stopped  here  l^y  the  evident  danger  of  proceeding  alone  upon 
the  glacier.  The  altitude  of  the  pass  which  he  had  reached 
(16,400  feet)  seems  to  have  been  ascertained  by  triangulation. 
The  absolute  lack  of  more  precise  data  and  of  any  detailed 
account  of  the  route  which  he  followed  prevents  us  from 
identifying  the  peak  which  he  ascended.  Probably  David 
might  have  been  able  to  point  out  his  route  upon  one  of  the 
photographs  taken  by  Stuhlmann  in  the  higher  Butagu  V^alley, 
and  reproduced  in  his  book.* 

In  tlie  course  of  the  same  year,  1904,  M.  T.  Dawe  made  an 
important  botanical  expedition  up  the  Mobuku  Valley.  This 
expedition  was,  however,  without  results  from  the  point  of  view 
of  the  mountaineer. 

During  the  time  which  had  now  elapsed  since  the  occupation, 
a  railway  line  had  been  opened  between  Mombasa,  on  the  coast 

*  There  is  the  possil)ility  that  David  ma}-  have  reached  the  saddle  between 
the  Elena  and  Savoia  Peaks  of  Mt.  Stanley  (about  15,750  feet),  where  a  rocky 
tooth  would  seem  to  correspond  to  his  description. 

15 


Chapter  I. 

of  the  Indian  Ocean,  and  Port  Florence,  on  the  eastern  ])ank  of 
the  Victoria  Nyanza.  Port  Florence  was  in  its  turn  coiniected 
with  Entehbe,  the  capital  of  U<(anda.  by  a  regular  service  oi' 
steamers.  It  had  thus  become  possil^le  to  reach  the  centre  of 
the  African  continent  without  difficulty,  at  small  expense,  and 
^^itban  iiiinieiise  saving  of  time.  The  couutrv  was  henceforward 
in  a  state  of  peace  and  security. 


NATi\E  ('nn':i-   wnii    iiis  iamii.v,  icanda. 

After  the  expedition  of  David,  no  explorer  avaiU'd  himself  of 
these  favourable  conditions  until  tlie  cud  of  the  year  1*J()5,  when 
interest  in  liuwcnzori  sctMiicd  suddcnlv  to  i-ea waken.  Thus  it 
happened  tliat  at  the  very  iii(»iii('iit  when  II.Iv.H.  the  Duke  of 
the  Abruzzi  was  forming  iiis  plan  \'ny  an  fxpcdilion  in  this 
reo-ion,    and    in   the   beginning   of    1!M)G,    wlicn    Ik*    bad   actually 

16 


Tlie  Discovery  of  Iluwenzori. 

taken  such  measures  for  carrying  it  into  efi'ect,  as  collecting 
material  and  preparing  details  of  equipment,  the  range  was 
already  being  attacked  by  determined  mountain  climbers  bent 
upon  rending  the  veil  of  mystery  which  had  so  long  shrouded 
its  secret. 

In  November,  1905,  for  the  first  time  in  the  history  of 
E-uwenzori,  a  party  of  expert  mountaineers,  Douglas  W. 
Freshlield  and  A.  L.  Mumm  with  the  guide  Moritz  Inderbinnen 
of  Zermatt,  arrived  in  the  Mol)uku  Valley.  They  found  the 
season  especially  unfavourable.  After  waiting  for  a  long  time 
at  the  upper  end  of  the  valley  they  were  forced,  by  uninter- 
rupted rains,  to  abandon  the  undertaking.  They  had  succeeded 
in  making  one  attempt,  in  the  course  of  which  Mumm  had 
ascended  the  glacier,  but  without  reaching  the  ridge. 

In  January,  1906,  the  Kev.  A.  B.  Fisher,  with  his  courageous 
wife,  went  up  the  Mobuku  Glacier  for  the  second  time.  In 
the  same  year  an  Austrian  mountaineer,  R.  Grauer,  with  two 
Eno-lish  missionaries,  H.  E.  Maddox  and  the  Rev.  H.  W.  Tee:art, 
who  dining  the  preceding  year  had  attained  to  an  altitude 
of  14,000  feet  on  the  Mobuku  Glacier,  climbed  the  high 
terminal  ridge  of  the  valley  which  had  not  been  reached  since 
1901.  They  ascended  to  the  smnmit  of  a  small  rocky  peak  which 
rises  on  a  depression  in  the  ridge  to  a  height  of  15,000  feet 
above  the  sea.      This  peak  Grauer  named  after  King  Edward. 

Finally,  in  October,  1905,  a  scientific  expedition,  sent  out 
by  the  British  Museum  to  study  the  fauna  and  flora  of 
Ruwenzori,  started  from  London  under  the  direction  of 
H.  B.  Woosnani.  The  other  members  of  this  expedition  were 
G.  Legge,  R.  E.  Dent,  M.  Carruthers  and  A.  F.  R.  Wollaston, 
a  member  of  the  Alpine  Clul).  Tliis  expedition  spent  several 
weeks  in  the   Mobuku  Valley  to  collect  scientific  material,  and 

17  c 


Chapter  I. 

in  the  niteival  nuidc  expeditions  np  the  glaciers  at  the  head 
of  the  valley. 

First  Woosnani  alone,  then  a  party  consisting  of  Wollaston, 
Woosnain  and  Dent  reached,  in  February,  of  1906,  the  spur 
of  rock  on  the  ridge  where  Grauer,  Maddox  and  Tegart  had 
gone  in  Januarv. 

A  few  (lavs  later  AVoUaston  and  Woosnam  attempted  to 
scale  the  peak  which  rises  above  the  western  slopes  of  the 
valley  (the  Kiyanja  of  Johnston),  Ijnt  owing  to  the  dense  fog 
they  were  stopped  on  a  knob  of  the  ridge  at  an  altitude  of 
16,125  feet,  a  little  below  the  actual  peak. 


A  cHiEi  s  i)Ar(;nTKi;s  of  bahima  stock. 


18 


The  DiscoA'ery  of  lluwenzori. 

( )ii  tlu'  Ist  of  April,  WoUaston,  Woosuani  and  (Jarnitliers, 
still  ])uisiieil  l)y  l)a;l  weather,  ascended  the  rocks  heside  the 
Mohnku  Glacier  and  reached  a  rocky  peak  15,893  feet  high, 
which  rises  to  the  north-east  of  the  valley,  and  which  they 
helieved  to  he  tlie  Duwoni  of  Johnston. 

Two  days  later,  the  same  party  repeated  the  ascent  of  the 
rocky  knoh  on  tlie  ridgp  of  Kiyanja,  and  the  reading  of  the 
hoiling-point  thermometer  gave  them  this  time  a  somewliat 
higher  altitude  (1(3,379  feet). 

The  persistent  had  weather  which  hampered  them  on  all 
these  expeditions  harely  allowed  them  to  perceive  that  other 
peaks  of  the  chain  rose  up  towards  the  north-west,  and  that 
they  seemed  higher  than  those  which  they  had  themselves 
ascended. 

Before  the  departure  of  the  Italian  expedition,  only 
vague  and  inaccurate  reports  of  these  ascents  had  come 
from  Uganda.  Nor  had  any  precise  and  direct  intelligence 
been  received  from  the  members  of  the  British  Museum 
Expedition. 

To  ensure  a  clear  understandino-  of  the  facts,  I  have  made 
out  a  table  of  all  the  explorations  of  Buwenzori,  which  joreceded 
the  expedition  of  H.H.H.  the  Duke  of  the  Abruzzi.  In  this 
table  I  have  given  the  altitudes  as  reported  by  each  writer. 
They  are  to  be  taken  as  approximate  only,  because  none 
of  them  are  drawn  from  a  series  of  observations  carried 
out  witli  the  precautions  and  tlie  corrections  necessary  to  an 
exact  result.  It  is  possible  tliat,  in  addition  to  the  expeditions 
which  I  have  recorded,  others  mav  liave  been  made  by  English 
residents  in  the  protectorate.  ()f  any  such  L  am  ignorant,  as 
no  account  of  them  has  been  published. 

19  '^  ^ 


Chapter  I. 


Explorations  of  the  Ruwenzoki  Range  from  its  Discovery, 
1888,  ur  TO  Ai'RiL,  1906. 


Date. 

Explorers. 

Route  followed. 

Point  readied. 

Height, 
feet. 

June,  1889 

W.  G.  Stairs 

Russiruhi  (1) 
Valley 

— 

10,677 

„      1891 

F.  Stuhliii.-iiin 

Butagu  V. 

— 

13,326 

„      1895 

G.  F.  Scott  Elliot 

Yeria  V. 
Wimi  V. 
Mobuku  V. 
Nyamwamba  V. 
Butagu  V. 

— 

13,000 

>«         >> 

Stephen  Bagge     ... 

Nyam\vand)a  V. 

Bamboo  Zone  ... 

— 

JMuf.,   1900 

C.  S.  Moore 

Mobuku  V. 

Terminal  crest... 

14,900 

April,     ., 

Fergusson 

„                ... 

Mobuku  Glacier 

14,600 

May,       „ 

S.  Bagge 

,,                ... 

J, 

— 

Sept.,      „ 

Sir   H.    Johnston, 
AV.  G.  Goggett, 
and  Wallis  Vale 

,,                ... 

?» 

14,828 

Aug.,  1901 

W.  H.   Wvlde,  and 
Ward 

,,                ... 

Terminal  crest... 

14,900 

Jan.,    190.3 

Rev.  A.  ]>.  Fisher, 
and  Mrs.  Fisher 

,, 

Mobuku  Glacier 

— 

April,  1 904 

J.  J.  David 

Butagu  V. 

Col   on  the  top 
of   the  water- 
shed (?) 

1G,400(?) 

^         „ 

W.  T.  DaNve 

Mobuku  Y.       ... 

Base  of  the  Mo- 
buku Glacier 

1     1905 

H.  E.  Maddo.v,  and 
Rev.      II.      W. 

Tegai-t 

— 

Mobuku  (ilacier 

14,000 

Nov.,  1905 

I).   W.    Fresh  field, 

Mcbuku  Y.       ... 

»> 

— 

and  A.  L.  Munuii 


The  Discovery  of  Ruwenzori. 


Date. 

Explorers. 

Eoute  followed. 

Point  reached. 

Ileight, 
feet. 

Jan.,    1906 

Rev.  A.  B.  Fisher, 
and  Mrs.  Fisher 

Mobuku  Valley 

iMtjbuku  Glacier 

— 

„      1906 

R.  Grauer,   H.    E. 
Maddox,        and 
H.  W.  Tegart 

)) 

Terminal     ridge 
(King     Ed- 
ward's Rock) 

15,000 

Feb.,    1906  [  H.  B.  Woosnam  ... 

55 

55 

55 

^;             )) 

A.  F.R.Wollaston, 
H.  B.  Woosnam, 
and  R.  E.  Dent 

55 

5) 

55 

55                  15 

A.    F.    Wollaston, 
and  H.  B.  Woos- 
nam 

55 

Knob     on     the 
ridge    of    Ki- 
yanja 

16,125 

April,  1906 

The     same,     with 
M.  Cariiithers 

55 

Peak     on    N.E. 
side     of     the 
valley  believed 
to       be      the 
Dnwoni        of 
Johnston 

15,893 

55                  55 

The  same  party    ... 

55 

Knob     on     the 
ridge    of    Ki- 
yanja 

16,379 

As  may  be  seen  by  this  table,  the  Mobuku  Valley  was  the 
loute  chosen  by  the  greatest  number  of  the  expeditions.  By 
this  route  the  high  terminal  ridge  had  been  reached  three  times. 
By  tliis  route  Wollaston  and  his  companions  had  succeeded  in 
ascending  two  peaks  of*  the  chain,  one  of  which  was  estimated 
at  over  16,000  feet  high.  It  would  appear  that  Dr.  David  must 
have  reached  a  still  higlier  point  by  the  western  slopes  ;  but  as 
I  have  already  mentioned,  the  accounts  of  his  expedition,  whicli 
are  at  our  disposal,  are  so  vague  as  to  render  it  impossil)le  to 
identify  the  col  whicli  he  ascended. 

21 


Chapter  I. 


NATIVE   MARKET   IX    I'OAXDA. 

Certuiiilv  no  one  uf  the  forenuineis  of  the  Dnke  of  the 
Ahrnzzi  liad  succeeded  in  actualJv  exphtring  the  chain,  that  is  to 
sav,  in  ohtaiiiing  tlie  coni})iehensive  knowledge  requisite  in 
order  to  describe  the  general  formation  of  tlie  line  of  watershed, 
the  configuration  of  tlie  mountains,  tln^  relative  height  of  the 
diflterent  ])eaks.  tlicir  connection  witli  the  several  vallevs,  and 
tlie  extent  and  position  of  the  glaciers. 

The  chief  explorers  had  observed  that  the  snow-peaks  fall 
into  four  distinct  gi-oups.  It  was  not  kn<»\\ii.  howevei-,  whether 
these  groups  wei'c  connected  hv  high  ndgrs  or  dixidcd  l)v  deep 
valleys. 

In  tli(^  absence  of  systematic  exploration  it  was  iiii])ossible  to 
bring  into  relation  to  one  another  the  (Htl'erent  descriptions  of 
j)eaks  as  seen  from  diverse  points.  The  confusion  between  tlie 
several  names  gi\en  to  them  increased  the  ditHcultv  of  comparing 
the  different   reports.      In  addition  to  .-ill  this,  it  had  been  given 


The  Discovery  of  liuwcn/ori. 

to  only  a  verv  few,  on  rare  occasions  and  tiuiu  a  great  distance, 
actually  to  haye  sio-ht  of  the  M'hole  chain. 


? 

i 

INCENSE   TREE  (?) 

Under  these  circumstances,  the  yiews  of  trayellers  as  to  the 
height  of  the  princi|)al  peaks,  the  extension  of  the  glaciers,  and 
the  general  features  of  the  range  were  A^idely  divergent  and 
based  upon  scanty  foundations.  These  vaews  ^vere  either 
deriyed  from  a  fleeting  yision  of  far-off  mountains  in  great  part 
hidden  by  lower  l)uttresses  of  the  chain,  or  else  based  upon 
knowledge  of  one  single  yalley  whose  surrounding  barrier  of 
ridges  hid  from  sigiit  all  the  greater  and  more  important  features 
of  the  range. 


23 


Chapter  T. 

Thus  it  came  ahoiit  tliat  tlie  estimated  ahitiide  of  the 
hio-liest  peaks  varied  between  1 5, ()()()  and  above  18,000  feet. 
The  onlv  trustworthy  measurement  was  that  derived  from 
triangulation  ajjphed  to  the  peak  wliich  appeared  to  Ije  the 
liis^hest.  The  triaugulatiou  was  taken  from  various  points  to 
the  south-east  of  this  peak  by  Lieutenant  Behrens  of  the  Angio- 
Gei'man  Boundary  Commission,  The  calculations  based  upon 
this  triangulation  gave  a  height  of  16,757  feet.  Colonel  C. 
Delme  Radcliffe,  however,  wdio  was  at  the  head  of  this  C^om- 
mission,  noted  the  possibility  of  higher  peaks  existing  further 
northward  and  not  visible  from  the  point  of  observation. 

The  chain  of  Ruwenzori,  witliout  doubt  the  most  important 
group  of  mountains  and  glaciers  in  Africa,  and  the  one  mystery 
still  unexplored  witli  regard  to  the  question  of  the  sources  t)f 
the  Nile,  promised  a  fertile  lield  for  research.  The  arduous 
character  of  the  undertakino;  and  tlie  uncertaintv  as  to  what 
obstacles  might  be  encountered  were  calculated  rather  to 
attract  than  to  dissuade  so  ardent  an  explorer  and  so  keen  a 
climber  as  H.R.H.  the  Duke  of  the  Abruzzi. 


24 


CHAPTEE   IT. 

Preparatiox  axd  Departure  of  the  Expedition  from  Italy. 
From  Naples  to  Entebbe. 

Choice  of  Season^Objects  of  the  Expedition — Organization  of  the  Expedi- 
tion— Departure  from  Naples — Mombasa — Lieutenant  E.  Winspeare  falls  ill — 
The  Uganda  Railway — The  Tableland  of  Athi — Rift  Valley — Port  Florence — 
Kisumu  Market — On  the  Winifred — The  Gulf  of  Kavirondo — Sunset  on 
Lake  Victoria — Steaming  upon  the  Equator — The  Islands — Sleeping  Sickness — 
The  Archipelago  of  Sesse — Arrival  at  Entebbe. 


(  )f   all    the    difficulties   with   which 

luost    of    the    predecessors    of    the 

Duke    of    the     Abruzzi    had     liad 

to    contend    in    the    exploration    of 

liuwenzori,   the    o-ravest    had    lieen 

the    obstinate    bad     weather,     the 

iiearlv    incessant    rain,    and,    in   the 

brief     intervals,     the      dense      mist 

wliicli    shrouded    the  whole  region. 

These  untoward   conditions  gave  the  utmost   importance  t(> 

the    decision    as    to    which    season    seemed    likely    to     Ije    the 

least  tnifavourable.       Judging  indeed  by  the  reports  of  former 

expeditions  which  had   set   forth    in   nearly  every  month   of  the 


Chapter  II. 

year,  it  seemed  that   one  siugie  raiuv  .season    reigned  supreme 
amono-  the  mountains  without  any  break  of  fair  weather. 


MOMBASA — I'OUT    KU-INDIXI. 


The  fact  is  that  tlie  great  mountain  range,  rising  Hke  an 
island  from  tlie  \-a.st  marsliy  plains  of  Uganda  and  the 
boundless  forest  of  the  Congo,  becomes  a  centre  of  attraction 
for  the  mass  of  vapours  sucked  up  by  tbe  tropical  sun,  which, 
condensing  aroimd  the  frozen  peaks,  form  a  })ermanent  veil  of  fog 
and  cloud.  Thus  it  bas  come  al)()Ut  tbat  inanv  a  traveller  has 
spent  months  and  months  in  tbr  iiiiiiiediate  neighbourhood 
of  the  chain  witbout  once  liaving  siglit  of  the  peaks,  or,  at 
best,  fugitive  glimjises  only. 

Stairs  and  Stuldmann  in  June,  and  David  in  April  appear  to 
have  found  climatic  conditions  sbgiitly  more  tolerable  than  the 
other  explorers.  Wollaston,  however,  bad  very  bad  luck  in 
April.      Sir  Henry  Stanley  writes   in  May  that  he  saw  the  snow 

20 


From  Naples  to  Entebbe. 

peaks  uncovered  ""  fVecjiU'iitly,  aliii(»st  dailv."  (  )ii  the  other  hand, 
Sir  HaiTV  Jolmston  cites  the  local  residents  to  the  efFect  that 
the  best  months  are  Xovcinhcr  and  I)ecenil)er.  Freshfield,  on 
the  contrary,  enconntered  tlie  verv  worst  weather  in  these 
months. 

Accounts  o;iven  l)v  tlie  missionaries  residino-  in  tlie  district 
of  Toro,  at  the  foot  of  the  chain,  appeared  to  concur  with 
Sir  WilHam  Garstin's  report  on  the  basin  of  the  Upper  Nile  in 
admitting-  the  rains  to  l)e  some^^'llat  less  frecpient  in  January  and 
February,  and  in  June  and  July,  altliough  the  atmosphere  upon 
the  mountains  remained  gloomy  eyen  during  those  months.      The 


MOMBASA — rORTUGUESE   FORT. 


experiences  reported  by  pioneers  were  not  in  agreement  with 
these  forecasts  which,  however,  it  seemed  hetter  to  accept,  as 
forming   the  oidv    basis    for   a   decision.       Tlie    Duke    therefore 


Chapter  II. 

arranged  to    leave   Italy    in   the    spring   In    order    to   reach   the 
mountains  by  the  beginning  of  June. 

The  expedition  Avas  accordingly  e4nii)i)e(l  in  the  early  months 
of  IDOG.  (are  was  taken  to  enable  it  to  reap  the  utmost  profit 
from  the  exceptional  opportunities  for  scientific  investigation 
offered  bv  a  journev  among  mountains  still  almost  unknown,  and 


THE   UGANDA    P.AILWAY. 


situated  in  pecidiar  conditions  in  tbe  centre  of  a  continent  where 
much  still  remains  to  be  discovered. 

The  main  olyect  of  the  expedition  was  of  course  geographical 
in  the  strict  sense  of  the  word  ;  that  is,  to  clear  u\)  the 
topoo-rapliv  of  the  chain  and  ascertain  tlie  heights  of  the 
mountains.  Tliis  work  was  to  be  completed  by  observatit>ns 
(jii  physical  geogra])hy,  nx'teorology  and  magnetism. 

In  connection  with  these  aims  it  was  Important  to  illustrate 

28 


From  Naples  to  Entebbe. 

amply  by  })li(»tooTupliy  tin'  legioiis  traversed.  Next  in  order 
came  geological  and  glaciological  researcli,  irichidiiig  mineralogv. 
Lastly,  there  was  every  reason  to  expect  that  in  the  yet  unex- 
plored valleys  and  mountain  slopes  interesting  additions  would 
V)e  found  to  our  knowledge  of*  the  fauna  and  flora  of  liuwenzori. 
With  a  view  to  carrying  out  tliis  plan  of  research,  tlie 
Duke  of  the  Abruzzi  selected  as  companions  on  tliis  occasion 
Commander  Umberto  Cagni,  who  had  taken  part  in  both  of 
his  previous  expeditions,  and  his  aide-de-camp,  Lieutenant 
Edoardo  Winspeare,  to  assist  in  the  topographical  work  and 
the  observations  connected  with  physical  geography.  The 
photography  was  entrusted  to  Cav,  Uff.  Yittorio  Sella,  who 
liad  already  accompanied  H.R.H.  in  the  ascent  of  Mt.  St.  Elias. 
Dr.  Achille  Cavalli  Molinelli,  R.N.,  wlio  had  taken  part  in  the 
Duke's  Arctic  Expedition  of  1900,  was  once  more  chosen  as 
medical  attendant  to  the  party,  and  was  also  to  assist 
Dr.    Alessandro    Roccati    in    the    collection    of    zooloo-ical    and 


SUGAP.-CAX K    VEXDORS. 


botanical   specimens.       Dr.   Roccati    was    furthermore    specially 
entrusted  with  the  aeoloo-ical  and  mineraloo-ical  researches. 

29 


Chaptor  II. 

it  would  he  ;i  waste  of  words  to  discuss  tlie  necessity  ot 
takino-  Alpine  i;uides  on  an  expedition  of  which  climbhig' 
was  to  form  the  essential  feature.  Furthermore,  as  there 
was    every     reason     to     exuect     that,     in     the     course     of    the 


AT   A   RAUAVAY   STATION. 


exploration  of  a  mountain  range  wdiose  summits  had  been 
estimated  by  previous  travellers  at  heights  varying  from 
16  000  to  over  20,0()()  feet,  prolonged  sojourns  above  the  snow- 
limit  would  l)e  necessary,  the  expedition  liad  to  be  furnished 
with  the  needful  ecpiipment  for  glacier  camps,  more  or  less 
on  the  lines  follow^ed  in  the  ascent  of  Mt.  St.  Elias  in  Alaska. 
This  involved  the  necessity  of  taking  out  Em-opean  porters  as 
well  as  guides,  for  it  was  iuipossil)le  to  count  upon  the 
services  of  the  natives  beyond  the  foot  of  the  glaciers. 

The  o"uides  chosen  for  the  ex])edition  were  Joseph  Petigax, 
the  intellio-ent  and  devoted  companion  of  the  Didce  in  the  Alps, 
in  Alaska,  and  on  the  Polar  Expedition,  and  Cesar  Oilier. 
Both  of  these  guides,  as  well  as  the  porters,  Joseph  Brocherel 
and  Laurent  Petigax,  were   from   Courmayeur,   in    the    Valley 

30 


From  Xaples  to  Entebbe. 

of  Aosta.  Oilier  and  Bioclierel  liad  alicutlv  L;ni(l»'(l  the 
Mackiiider-Hausl)uro-  Kxpetlitioii  to  Mount  Kenya  (East  Africa) 
in  1899.  There  was  also  Krniinio  Botta,  of  Biella,  tlie  assistant 
photographer  of  Sella,  who  liad  had  experience  of  roiioh  life 
and  exploration  in  the  Caiicasns,  in  Alaska  and  in  the  Himalaya. 
Lastly  there  was  the  cook,  Igino  Igini,  of  Acquapendeiite,  who 
had  passed  an  Arctic  winter  in  the  Duke's  service  in  the  Bay 
of  Teplitz. 

I  will  not  descrihy  at  length  the  preparation  of  the 
equipment,  to  which  the  Prince  attended  with  tlie  same 
scrupulous  care  for  detail  wln'ch  had  so  much  contributed  to 
the  success  of  his  former  inidertakings.  It  was  especially 
difficult  and  complicated  on  this  occasion,  owing  to  the 
necessit}^  of   meeting  the   ret[uirements   l)oth  of   a  long  march 


PORT    FLORENCE. 


across  tropical  regions,  and  of  a  prolonged  sojourn  among  ice 
and  snow. 

Everything  was  ready  by  the  beginning  of  April,  and  on  the 

31 


Chapter  Tl. 

eveuliii^  of  the    IGth   the   whole   party  set  out   froin  Naples  on 
board  tlie  German  liner  Biir germeister  bound  for  East  Africa. 


THE    "WINIFRED"   ALONGSIDE   THE    riER    IX    PORT   FLORENCE. 


The  distance  from  Naples  to  Mombasa,  situated  on  the  East 
Coast  a  little  over  four  degrees  south  of  the  Equator,  is  about 
4,100  miles.  The  steamers  usually  take  seventeen  days  on  the 
voyage,  \\\t\\  l)rief  stops  at  Port  Said,  Suez,  Aden,  and  Jibuti. 

Africa  as  seen  from  the  Ked  Sea  is  far  from  attractive.  The 
coast  is  low  and  sandy,  flat  or  bounded  by  dunes.  The  hills  are 
barren  and  naked,  the  country  baked  by  the  sun,  desolate  and 
sterile.  Tlie  ports  upon  the  high  road  of  the  great  trade  lines, 
present  a  profouiidlv  depressing  spectacle.  Arabs,  Turks,  and 
ne<JToes  in  rags  and  scpialor,  witli  swarms  of  crippled,  diseased, 
and  leprous  beggars  combine  to  form  a  population  of  countless 
races,  poisoned  and  deteriorated  pliysically  and  morally  by 
sudden  contact  \\itli  a  cix  ilizatioii  too  widelv  difl'erent  from  their 
owiL  Tlic  wliitf  mail's  liiglilv  coinplicated  and  suljtle  civil 
or»J"aiiization,  tlie  growtli  of  an  iniiiieasurably  long  period, 
durini;  wliicb  individual  dcNclopnH'iit  has  kept  })ace  with  the 
evr)lution    of  tlie    bodv    politic,    has    been    suddenly    thriLst    \\\i\\ 

32 


From  Naples  to  Entebbe. 

disastrous  results  upon  races  undeveloped  and  unprepared  for  its 
reception. 

The  voyage  was  most  prosperous,  with  calm  sea  and  fine 
weather  which  changed  only  toward  the  end.  Professor  Koch 
was  among  the  passengers,  and  the  monotony  of  the  voyage  was 
thus  pleasantly  broken  for  the  Duke  and  his  companions  by  talk 
about  Equatorial  Africa,  whither  Koch  was  returning  to  proceed 
with  his  studies  on  the  sleeping  sickness,  that  ghastly  scourge 
which  has  in  a  few  years  nearly  depopulated  vast  districts 
around  the  great  lakes. 

The  last  days  of  the  journey  were  clouded  by  the  illness 
of  Lieutenant  Winspeare.  High  fever  developed  and  it  soon 
became    manifest    that    it    would    be    impossil^le    for   him    to 


NATIVES   GOING   TO   MARKET,    KISUMU. 

accompany  the  expedition  across  the  unhealthy  region  between 
the  coast  and  the  mountains,  which  is  often  fatal  even  to  those 
who  undertake  the  journey  in  a  perfect  condition  of  health. 

33  D 


Chapter  II. 

Mombasa  is  situated  upon  an  island  surroinided  l)y  a  steep 
coast  of  coral  formation,  and  covered  with  palms.  This  island 
lies   in   a    hav   formini'-   two   sheltered    channels,    of  which    the 


A    SHED    IX    THE    MARKET    PLACE,    KISUMU. 

easternmost,  known  as  Vovt  Mombasa,  is  narrow  and  difficult 
of  navigation,  and  suited  only  to  the  small  craft  which 
trade  along  the  coast,  while  the  otlier,  known  as  Port  Kilindini, 
is  capacious  and  convenient,  and  here  the  English,  French, 
German,  and  Austrian  liners  ride  at  anchor.  The  Jhnyo-meister 
entered  this  jxnt  on  the  morning  of  3rd  May. 

Concessions  made  bv  the  Britisli  authorities  w^th  reo-ard  to 
customs  and  transport,  and  their  courteous  assistance,  together 
with  that  of  the  few  Italian  residents,  facilitated  the  landing  of 
the  equipment. 

Mombasa,  like  the  otlun-  citic^s  of  tliis  coast,  was  founded 
about  the  year  1000  by  Arabs  and  Persians.  (\)ins,  inscriptions, 
and  architectural  fragments  recoid  tlu^r  occupation. 

34 


From  Naples  to  Entebbe. 

The  island  upon  which  tlie  city  is  })nilt  is  known  in  the 
native  language  as  Kisiwa  niwita,  or  "  Island  of  War,"  a  name 
which  agrees  with  its  history,  whicli  is  entirely  made  up  of 
warlike  vicissitudes.  Mombasa  is  the  best  port  on  the  whole 
east  coast  of  Africa,  and  was  a  valuable  station  on  the  old 
trade  route  for  India  before  the  Suez  Canal.  For  these  reasons 
it  was  for  centuries  one  of  the  most  eagerly  sought  positions 
and  one  of  those  most  persistently  disputed  between  the  Arabs, 
Portuguese,  and  Turks,  who  held  it  alternately.  When  the 
Portuguese  domination  came  to  an  end  in   1729,  Mombasa  was 


KAVIRONDO   WOMEN. 


governed  for  over  a  century  by  Arabs  of  the  family  of  Mazrui, 
under  the  nominal  suzerainty  of  the  Imans  of  Oman.  Wlien 
the  latter  transported  their  capital  from  Maskat   to   Zanzibar, 

35 


D    -1 


Chapter  II. 

they  drove  out   the   Maznii   from   Mombasa   and  re-estabUshed 
their  own  effective  domination  there  in  1837. 

The  Portuguese  domination  is  recorded  by  the  ancient  fort, 
a  massive  edifice  built  towards  the  end  of  the  sixteenth 
century,  several  times  dismantled,  l)ut  which  still  stands  and 
bears  cut  in  the  stone  tlie  Christian  symbol  "  I.H.S.,"  together 
with  the  eagles  of  the  Austro-Spanisli  dynasty  which  governed 
Portugal  in  1635,  when  the  fort  was  restored.  It  now  contains 
the  prisons  and  a  military  store-house. 

After  1848,  Englisli  and  German  geographical  exploring 
expeditions  followed  one  another.  In  their  wake  were  formed 
colonial  trading  companies,  which  established  themselves  on  the 
coast  and  penetrated  the  country  little  by  little,  gradually 
obtaining  concessions  from  the  Sultanate  of  Zanzibar  or  through 
treaty  with  native  cliiefs.  Anglican  and  Catholic  missionaries 
next  made  their  way  still  further  into  the  interior,  where  they 
had  been  preceded  by  the  Mohammedans.  In  consequence, 
religious  wars  lacerated  Uganda  for  many  years.  In  1890, 
Germany  and  England  established  by  treaty  their  resjjective 
zones  of  influence.  Three  years  later,  the  Imperial  Government 
of  Great  Britain  took  over  the  protectorate,  and  since  then  has 
pushed  the  occupation  up  to  the  boundaries  of  the  Congo 
State. 

On  the  inorning  of  tlie  4th  of  May,  Lieutenant  Winspeare 
was  carried  to  the  hospital,  wliicli  stands  on  a  healthy,  airy, 
and  pleasant  site  overlooking  the  ocean  and  the  picturesque 
Portuguese  fort.  The  grey  sky  and  fine  rain  seemed  to  fit  the 
depression  which  all  felt  at  having  to  leave  a  comrade  behind 
at  the  very  outset  of  the  undertaking.  Lieutenant  Winspeare 
recovered  sufficiently  to  leave  Mombasa  to  return  to  Europe  on 
the  12th  of  May. 

36 


From  Naples  to  Entebbe. 

As  is  well  known,  Mombasa  is  now  connected  witli  Lake 
Victoria  by  a  railway  winch  runs  north-west  from  the  coast  in  a 
direction    nearly  parallel  to  the  Anglo-German  boundary,    and 


KISUMU    MARKET. 


touches  the   lake  at  Port  Florence  at  the  liead  of  the  Bay  of 
Kavirondo,  almost  upon  the  equator. 

At  eleven  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the  4th  of  May,  the 
Italian  expedition  left  Mombasa  by  the  railway,  which  traverses 
regions  completely  unknown  less  than  thirty  years  ago. 

The  distance  from  the  east  coast  to  Lake  Victoria  is 
584  miles.  At  the  present  day  this  distance  is  covered  in  a 
couple  of  days  without  the  least  fatigue,  comfortably  seated  in 
the  little  narrow-gauge  railway  carriages  which  are  arranged 
inside  like  those  on  our  own  Sardinian  railways.  Only  a  few 
years  ago  several  months  of  difficult  and  dangerous  travel 
among  warlike  tribes,  over  wretched  tracks,  in  an  unfavourable 
climate  and  with  all  the  complications,   obstacles  and  expense 

37 


Chapter  II. 

of  a  niinieroiis  caravan  of  porters  were  required  to  cover  this 
ground. 

The  construction  of  this  railway  was  a  truly  great  work, 
owinff  to  the  serious  ohstacles  which  had  to  be  overcome.  It 
stands  as  a  witness  to  splendid  perseverance  and  resolution  in 
an  incessant  struggle  for  six  years  against  the  gravest  difficulties. 
Vast  tracts  of  the  country  are  absolutely  lacking  in  water  or 
resources,  and,  in  fact,  practically  a  desert.  A  great  part  of  the 
Avav  passes  over  mountains  where  the  line  rises  to  a  height 
of  7,700  feet,  descends  to  G,000,  and  mounts  again  to  8,300, 
only  to  drop  down  to  3,700  on  the  shore  of  the  lake. 


KISUMU    MARKET. 


No  help  was  Ibrtlicoming  from  tlie  natives,  mere  naked 
savages,  devoid  of  industry  or  skill,  incapable  of  work  in  any 
shape   whatsoever.      It   was  necessary  to   transport  an  army  of 

38 


From  Xaples  to  Entebbe. 

20,000  labourers   and  artisans   from  India,   to   feed,    lodge   and 
clothe  them,  and  to  supply  them  with  tlie  necessary  implements. 
Evervthino-  had  to  h^   hroui-lit  out  either  from  Eno-land  or  from 
India,  thus  necessitating  as  great  forethought  and  as  complete 
organization  as  are  required  for  a  military  campaign.     In  addition 
to  all    this,  owing  to  the  enormous   difficulty  of  transport    in 
a   country   where    the    tsetse-fly    makes    the    use    of    beasts  of 
burden  impossible,  the  w^ork  of  cutting  and  preparing  the  line 
could    only   proceed   a   yery  short  distance  in  adyance   of  that 
of  layino'    the    rails.      Some    of    the    districts    trayersed    were 
unhealthy.       At    times    epidemics    preyailed.       The    men    were 
tormented  by  divers    kinds    of  parasitic    insects.      Lions   made 
numerous  victims  and  struck  terror  into  tlie  workmen. 

The     undertakino-    was    commenced    in     1895,    before    the 
completion  of  the    conquest    of   Uganda.      In    the    very   midst 


WITIHX   THE   ENCrXJSURE   OF   THE   MARKET,    KISl'MU. 

of  the  work  in  1897,  the  colony  ran  a  serious  risk  through 
mutiny  among  the  Sudanese  troops  and  the  rebellion  of  the 
Kings  of  Uganda  and  Unyoro,  instigated  by  the  Mohammedan 

39 


Chapter  IT. 

party.      Yet    in    the    third    year    after    its    inauguration,    the 
Uganda  Railway  counted   179,000  passengers. 

A  European,  landed  for  the  first  time  in  Africa,  must 
experience  a  strange  sensation  on  finding  himself  suddenly 
transported  by  railway  into  the  very  midst  of  a  landscape, 
where  every  feature,  people,  animals  and  plants  iniite  to  form  the 
picture  which  he  had  so  often  attempted  to  create  by  imagination. 

Immediately  after  crossing  the  bridge  that  joins  Mombasa 
to  the  continent,  the  railway  begins  its  ascent  to  the  tableland, 
passing  first  through  fields  of  mango,  cocoanut,  banana  and  all 
the  beautiful  vegetation  of  the  coast  zone  ;  next,  through  the 
undulating  and  bare  plains  of  the  Taru  desert,  where  thorny 
bushes  and  a  few  euphorbias  are  the  only  plants  ;  then  once 
more  through  a  fertile  country  among  flowering  fields  and 
woodlands. 

The  stations,  placed  at  intervals  of  20  miles  from  one 
another,  consist  each  of  a  little  wooden  hut,  beside  a  shed 
standing  alone  in  the  wilderness.  Every  100  miles  is  a  central 
station.  Here  the  natives  collect  in  numbers  from  the 
neighbouring  villages  to  sell  sugar-cane  and  bananas  to  the 
third-class  passengers. 

The  train  continues  to  climb  by  a  gentle  grade,  and  the 
snowy  peaks  of  Kilimandjaro  Ijecome  visible  to  the  south.  The 
landscape  is  nionotonous,  and  the  country  infested  by  the 
tsetse-fly.  A  little  fmtlier  on,  for  reasons  unknown  to  us, 
the  dangerous  insect  disajjpears,  and  a  veritable  Eden  opens  to 
the  view  of  the  traveller.  This  is  the  Tableland  of  Athi,  the 
famous  game  preserve  of  the  Government,  upon  whose  rich 
pastures,  dotted  with  uiiil)iella  acacias,  graze  peaceably,  almost 
without  fear  of  the  train,  whole  herds  of  zebra,  buttalo,  gnu, 
antelope,  and  gazelle.     Giraflfes,  too,  may  be  seen  peeping  timidly 

40 


From  Naples  to  Entebbe. 

from  behind  the  groups  of  trees,  or  ostriclies  driven  into  SAvift 
flight  by  the  noise  of  the  passing  train  ;  while  now  and  again 
the  traveller  may  be  so  lucky  as  to  behold   a  lion   sauntering 


BANANA    SELLERS,    KISUMU. 

across  the  plain,  less  startled  perhaps  than  the  onlookers,  who 
gaze  astounded  upon  the  extraordinary  sight. 

About  half-way  on  the  journey  stands  Nairobi,  a  flourishing 
little  town,  thanks  to  the  healthy  climate  and  the  fertility  of  the 
soil.  Presently  the  coinitry  assumes  a  mountainous  character, 
and  the  line  climbs  steep  ridges  clad  wath  luxuriant  forests  of 
juniper  and  other  evergreens,  or  penetrates  into  narrow  silent 
valleys  to  reach  at  last  the  summit  of  the  heights  which  form 
the  eastern  cliif  of  the  Rift  Vallev,  that  vast  entrenchment 
which  winds  through  higli  plateaux  between  Lakes  Rukwa  and 
Nyassa  to  the  south-west,  and  the  Gulfs  of  Tajurra  and  of  Aden 

41 


Chapter  II. 

to  the  north-east.  The  railway  descends  nearly  2,000  feet  to 
reach  the  bottom  of  this  valley,  wliicli  is  al)oiit  30  miles  wide, 
and  is  dotted  witli  tiny  volcanoes,  some  active,  others  extinct. 
Lakes  and  ponds  of  sweet  or  salt  ^\•ater  swarm  ^^'ith  every 
species  of  acpiatic  bird,  and  the  abundant  Mater-courses  make 
tliis  one  of  the  most  fertile  regions  in  Africa,  as  well  as  one  of 
the  most  famous  huntino-  grounds. 

After  Nairobi  the  line  crosses  districts  inhabited  ])y  the 
Wa-Kiknyu,  agricultin-al  and  sedentary  tribes  ;  and  by  the 
Masai,  nomads  and  herdsmen,  great  breeders  of  cattle  and  bold 
wari'iors,  who  stopped  tlie  progress  of  many  an  explorer  of  old. 
The  Masai  as  a  race  are  finely  proportioned,  with  a  proud,  fierce 


OFF    RUSINflA    ISLAND. 


mien  and  rather  regular  features,  except  the  ears,  wliich  are 
unrecognizable,  so  deformed  are  they  by  absurd  and  voluminous 
ornaments.      The  women  wear   also   heavy   long   copper   spirals 

42 


From  Naples  to  Entebbe. 

woiiiul  urouiid  their  neck,  urms  and  leu's.  Their  clothiuir 
consists  of  a  mantle  of  stuff  or  of  skins  stitched  together, 
fixed  upon  one  shoukler  after  the  fashion  of  a  toga,  or  aroinid 
the  chest  under  the  arms. 


NATIVE   CAXOE   WITH    THE    PROW   OF    PEACE. 

After  passing  through  a  portion  of  tliis  valley,  and  close  to 
several  little  lakes  set  in  an  enchanting  landscape,  the  railway 
proceeds  to  ascend  the  opposite  forest -clad  slope  to  a  height  of 
8,300  feet,  whence  it  again  descends  from  valley  to  valley, 
through  groves  of  acacias,  bananas  and  palms,  to  the  level 
grassy  shores  of  Lake  Victoria.  The  train  makes  straight  for 
the  pier  of  Port  Florence. 

While  the  g-oods  were  beino-  carried  on  to  the  steamer  there 
was  time  to  pay  a  short  visit  to  the  market  of  Kisumu.  Here 
the   natives  assemble   in  great  numbers  from  the  neighbouring 

43 


Cliapter  II. 

villages,  mere  groups  of  huts  surrounded  by  a  hedge.  They 
belong  to  the  tribe  of  Kavirondo,  which  was  formerly  one  of  the 
most  powerful  and  one  of  the  wealthiest  tribes  around  the 
Victoria  Nyanza.  The  crowds  of  men  and  women  come  across 
the  level  country,  carrying  on  their  heads  baskets  woven  with 
great  art  out  of  grasses.  The  young  people  of  both  classes  go 
completely  naked  until  marriage  ;  after  marriage  they  wear  a 
scrap  of  goat-skin  over  the  hips,  rather  as  a  symbol  of  the 
conjugal  state  than  as  a  garment.  They  are  renowned  for 
their  modesty  and  for  their  morality,  ^^■hich  contrasts  with  the 
dissolute  tribes  in  the  neighbourhood,  although  the  latter  are 
clothed.  Tlie  Kavirondo  are  sober,  gentle,  peaceable  and 
sociable.  Sir  Harry  Johnston  regards  them  as  the  most  moral 
people  of  Central  Africa. 

The  native  costume  is  unfortunately  doomed  to  rapid  dis- 
appearance. Here,  as  everywhere  else,  civilization,  intolerant 
of  all  forms,  aspects  or  traditions  of  life  that  differ  from  its 
own,  is  swiftly  introducing  that  monotonous  uniformity  which 
tends  to  turn  the  whole  world  into  one  people.  It  can  scarcely 
be  hoped  that  Kisumu,  situated  as  it  is  at  the  terminus  of  a 
railway,  will  long  preserve  its  distinctive  character. 

Clear  indications  of  a  rapid  change  are  already  visible. 
Mingling  with  the  naked  natives  are  many  partially  or  even 
wholly  clad  in  garments  of  white,  striped,  or  gaily  printed 
cottons,  over  which  they  often  wear  some  hideous  European 
garment,  such  as  a  waistcoat,  a  jacket,  or  a  tail  coat, 
without  the  least  consciousness  of  their  grotescpie  and  absurd 
appearance. 

The  market  is  held  in  tlie  open  air  or  mider  sheds  erected  on 
purpose.  It  consists  mainly  of  small  traffic  in  dried  fish,  sweet 
potatoes,    grain    and    bananas.      Tiie    Ijuyers    stand    in    groups 

44 


From  Naples  to  Entebbe. 

around  the  sellers,  who  crouch  or  sit  ou  the  grouiid  heside  the 
baskets  of  every  conceivable  shape  which  contain  their  wares. 
Men  and  women  smoke  the  short  straight  pipes  of*  the  country. 
Others  circulate  liither  and  thither  with  that  buovant  and 
elastic  tread,  like  the  gait  of  a  wild  animal,  which  comes  from 
the  habit  of  moving  without  the  impediment  of  clothes.  The 
women  wear  a  string  of  beads  around  their  waist,  from  which  a 
sort  of  tail  of  woven  fibres  hangs  down  behind.  The  men  wear 
necklaces  of  glass  beads,  with  bracelets  of  iron  on  their  wrists 
and  their  ankles.  The  mode  of  dressing  the  hair  is  frequently 
fantastic  and  embellished  by  feathers,  hippopotamus  teeth, 
etc.,  etc. 


AMONG   THE   SESSE   ISLANDS. 


The  current  coin,  as  throughout  Eastern  Africa,  is  the  rupee, 
wortli  about  Ls-.  4c/.  The  use  of  co\\T7ies  for  currency  persists 
only  in  those  forms  of  trade  which  require  subdivision  to  an 
infinitesimallv  low  value. 


45 


Chapter  II. 

The  steamship  Winifred,  with  its  twin,  the  Sibyl,  performs 
a  reo-ular  service  between  the  luirl)oiirs  of  Lake  Victoria.  The 
trade  increased  so  rapidly  that  a  third  steamship  was  lamiched 
in  1907,  and  a  fom^th  is  already  in  construction. 

Port  Florence  is  situated  in  the  little  bay  of  Ugowe,  at  the 
eastern  extremity  of  tlie  Gulf  of  Kavirondo,  opposite  to  and  a 
little  lii<;lH'r  than  Kisuniu,  Avhich  is  on  the  other  side  of  the  bay. 

The  Gulf  of  Kaviroiulo  runs  inland  to  a  distance  of  about 
45  miles,  while  in  some  places  its  width  scarcely  reaches  3  miles. 


NAPOLEON    ]!AY,    LAKE   VICTORIA. 


Its  outlet  into  the  lake  is  narrow  and  almost  closed  ])y  islands. 
The  water  of  the  <;uH*  is  yellow,  dirty,  and  stagnant,  nor  is 
the  least  trace  of  any  current   perceptil)le.      It  is  dotted  with 


4G 


From  Naples  to  Entebbe. 

floating  islands  formed  by  tangled  masses  of  aquatic  plants,  upon 
which  germinate  and  grow  the  papyrus,  nymphsea  and  other 
species,  which  afibrd  shelter  to  myriads  of  a(juatic  birds. 

The  north  coast  of  the  gulf  forms  a  level  plain.  On  the 
south  side,  at  a  short  distance  from  the  shore,  a  series  of 
volcanic  peaks,  more  or  less  rounded  on  tlie  top,  rise  gradually 
into  a  chain  of  wild  mountains,  culminating  in  a  jagged  ridge, 
overtopped  by  a  high  and  fissured  cone  nearly  4,000  feet  above 
the  lake. 

Navigation  on  the  Victoria  Nyanza  ceases  with  nightfall. 
On  the  evening  of  the  6th  of  May  accordingly  the  Winifred, 
which  had  started  at  half-past  two  in  the  afternoon,  cast  anchor 
near  to  the  Island  of  E-usinga  where  she  was  to  pass  the  night, 
at  the  point  where  the  Gulf  of  Kavirondo  opens  into  the  lake. 
The  steamer  was  immediately  surrounded  by  native  canoes. 
These  are  large  boats  of  slender  form,  carrying  twenty  rowers 
or  more,  not  roughly  hollowed  out  of  tree -trunks,  but  built 
regularly  from  the  keel  upward  with  boards  held  together  hy 
fibre  cords  and  the  interstices  caulked  with  fibre  and  resinous 
gums.  The  prow  is  armed  with  a  long  sharp  point,  covered  at 
ordinary  times  by  the  "  prow  of  peace,"  the  extremity  of  which 
is  turned  vertically  upward  and  is  frequently  adorned  with 
feathers,  horns  of  animals,  etc. 

The  evening  was  now  closing  in.  The  slender  canoes  were 
leaving  the  sides  of  the  Wiyiifred.  The  fine  nude  torsos  of  the 
native  oarsmen  strained  every  muscle  to  the  rhythmical  stroke. 
The  sharp  click  of  the  oars  on  the  rowlocks  was  already  dying 
out  in  the  distance.  The  waves  broke  with  a  gentle  murmur  on 
the  shore  of  the  island.  In  the  shallow  water  the  hippopotami 
lifted  their  ungainly  heads  from  among  the  reeds,  while  flights  of 
birds  sought  their  roosting-places  on  the  scattered  rocks  with 

47 


Chapter  11. 

shrill  cries.  The  sun  was  setting  in  a  halo  of  fiery  clouds.  The 
last  rays  lit  up  tlie  unfamiliar  scenery  where  the  shadows  of 
night  increased  the  sense  of  surrounding  mystery. 


SllurtKS   OF    J,AKE   VICTOlllA,    NKAll    KAMPALA. 


Little  1)V  little  the  colour  of  the  sky  passed  from  red  and 
purple  to  colder  hues  and  through  suhtler  tones.  Soon  clouds 
and  water  and  islands  seemed  to  mingle  and  vanish  in  the 
twilio-ht  whic'li  was  si)readin5>-  swiftly  over  tlie  surface  of  the 
lake. 

For  hundreds  and  huiuheds  of  miles  on  every  side  stretched 
the  vast  regions  of  Central  Africa,  unknown  up  till  yesterday, 
inhabited  by  that  unhaj)])y  race  which  has  survived  a  martyrdom 
of  centuries,  crushed  under  its  ft^arful  past  of  slavery,  blood- 
thirsty rulers  and  murderous  wars.      To-day  this  era  of  violence 

48 


From  Naples  to  Entebbe. 

has  come  to  an  end  or  Is  on  the  point  of  ending.  The  European, 
who  for  years  past  had  bought  ivory  and  slaves  from  the 
infamous  Arab  merchant,  is  now  endeavouring  to  atone  for  the 
past  and  hopes  to  bestow  a  future  of  peace  and  prosperity  upon 
the  black  by  means  of  Christianity  and  civil  organization. 
England  has  led  the  way  in  this  heavy  and  laborious  task,  just 
as  she  had  already  taken  upon  herself  the  duty  of  routing 
out  slavery,  in   the    struggle    she  has   carried    on   Ijy  sea    and 


BOTANICAL    CxARDENS,    ENTEBBE. 


land  practically  single  -  handed  for  eighty  years.  The  goal, 
however,  is  still  very  far  distant.  Vast  regions  are  wholly 
unexplored  and    out  of   all  European    control.     Elsewhere  the 

49  K 


Chapter  11. 

inferiority  and  weakness  of  the  negro  are  too  strong  a 
temptation  to  his  economic  exploitation.  In  many  places  a 
state  of  social  secmity  appears  to  have  bred  sloth  and 
dissoluteness  among  the  natives,  together  with  intemperance 
and  lack  of  self-control,  Mliile  every  species  of  disease  devastates 
the  wretched  and  degenerate  population.  The  civilized  nations 
liave  hut  tlieir  own  love  of  justice  from  which  to  draw  the 
strengtli  and  consistency  of  purpose  needful  to  carry  on 
without  liesitation  a  humanitarian  work  which  demands 
disinterestedness  and  self-denial,  gifts  unfortunately  rare  in 
social  aggi'egates. 

On  the  morning  of  the  7th  of  May,  by  daybreak,  the 
Winifred  proceeded  on  her  way,  no  longer  in  the  muddy 
and  colourless  Gulf  of  Kavirondo,  but  in  the  open  lake, 
whose  waters  are  limpid  and  transparent,  of  a  rich  colour 
between  emerald  and  Ijlue,  and  as  pure  as  crystal.  A  few 
hours  after  leaving  the  sliore  the  land  fades  out  of  sight, 
giving  the  illusion  of  Ijeing  on  the  high  sea.  The  Victoria 
Nyanza  is,  in  fact,  surpassed  in  size  only  by  Lake  Superior  in 
North  America,  and  is  so  vast  that  it  is  possible  to  voyage  along 
or  across  it  for  more  than  200  miles  without  seeino-  land.  It 
is  like  the  sea,  too,  in  its  sudden  and  dangerous  storms  which 
raise  up  waves  as  high  as  those  of  the  ocean, 

Tlie  hydrographic  survey  of  the  shore  was  only  finished 
last  year,  1907.  The  shore  line  measures  3,200  miles  and  the 
survey  occupied  Captain  II  Whitehouse  seven  years.  Tlie 
centre  of  the  lake  is  still  in  great  part  unexplored  and  gives 
rise  to  nmnerous  legends  \\]\\q\\  are  current  in  tlie  country 
about  islands  inhabited  by  eannil)als,  shi})s  swallowed  by 
whirlpools,  monsters  whicli  inhabit  unexplored  abysses,  and 
other  sucli  matters. 

50 


From  Naples  to  Entebbe. 

Even  when  out  of  siylit  of  land  the  voyage  is  never 
monotonous.  The  aspect  of  the  sky  varies  unceasingly.  Vapoin-s 
and  clouds  perpetually  form,  and  tlissolve,  or  gather  into  dark 


i 

tal^^  ..     Jt 

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r 

If 

t^ 

<^ 

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"'ciMI 

1 

^B 

'wiL_ 

■^vi^ 

^^M 

.-■.  .-v^ 

mr^SLi^ 

..^ 

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iSii^iP 

i.-'TSr^ri 

F^C^ 

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i' 

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L  ■ 

'.,;«"' 

GOVERNORS   HOUSE,    ENTEBBE. 


storms,  while  tlie  water,  reflecting  their  changes  in  endless 
variety  of  colour  and  tone,  presents  a  spectacle  which  is  never 
wearisome.  Flights  of  swallows  pass  through  the  air.  Swarms 
of  minute  gnats  dance  on  the  surface  of  the  water  like  a 
light  mist.  These  are  the  only  tokens  that  land  is  not  really 
far  off. 

The  course  of  the  steamers  follows  tlie  equator,  roughly 
speaking,  and  crosses  the  northern  extremity  of  the  lake  from 
east  to  west,  steering  clear  of  the  chain  of  islands  M'liich  lie 
along  the  coast.  These  islands  form  a  breakwater,  sheltering 
a  wide  and  practically  continuous  channel  where  canoes  and 
small  sailing  craft  can  navigate  in  safety.  They  vary  in  size 
from  mere  rocks  just  rising  above  the  water,  and  whitened  hy 
the  deposit  of  aquatic  birds,  to  islands  so  vast  as  to  torm 
a   small   region    in    themselves,   clad  with    dense   forests,    girt 


51 


E  2 


Chapter  II. 

about  with  irregular  and  deeply  indented  coasts,  crowned  with 
mountains  attaining  to  a  height  of  2,000  feet  above  the  surface 
of  the  lake,  and  inhabited  by  tribes  wliicli  seem  almost  to  have 
acquired  special  characteristics  in  their  long  separation  from 
the  mainland. 

The  most  important  and  the  greatest  of  all  is  the  Island  of 
Buvuma,  one  of  the  group  which  crowxls  around  the  entrance  to 
Gulf  Napoleon,  and  masks  the  exit  of  the  Nile  from  the  Victoria 
Nyanza.  Buvuma  was  formerly  inhabited  by  a  warrior  tribe 
wdiich,  relying  upon  a  strong  fleet,  defended  its  independence 
with  great  valour  against  the  powerful  kings  of  Uganda. 

The  sleej)ing  sickness  has  turned  into  vast  graveyards  the 
greater    number    of   the    beautiful    and    fertile    islands    of    the 


MARKET,    ENTEBBE. 


archipelago.  After  depopulating  whole  districts  of  the  Congo,  it 
appeared  in  Uganda  between  1900  and  1902  and  has  sju-ead 
further  and  further,  following  the  main  routes  of  conununication, 
invading  step  by  step  tlie  territories  of  the  Baganda,  Basoga  and 


52 


From  Xaples  to  Entebbe. 

Kaviroiido,  and  making  gigantic  inroads  even  to  the  point  of 
40,000  victims  in  one  year.  The  sleeping  sickness  is  especially- 
fatal  to  men  in   the  prime  of  life,  and   hence  whole  villages  and 


MARKET,    ENTEBBE. 

islands  may  be  found  tenanted  by  women  and  children  wlio  alone 
have  survived. 

The  British  Museum  Expedition  mentioned  in  the  preceding 
chapter,  found  in  the  district  of  Maniema,  south  of  E-uweuzori, 
a  multitude  of  natives  stricken  with  the  sickness  and  di'iven  out 
from  their  villages,  only  to  wander  hither  and  thither  in  the 
country  and  die,  untended,  by  thousands. 

Hospitals  have  been  started  and  are  increasing  in  nimiber. 
Attempts  are  made  to  organize  help  and  to  encourage  emigration 
from  the  infected  districts  towards  those  which  are  still  healthy, 
but  the  means  are  utterly  inadequate  to  grapple  witli  the 
swiftness  and  the  activity  of  this  fearful  plague. 

Sleeping  sickness  is  caused  by  a  parasite,  a  trypanosoma, 
discovered  by  Dr.  Aldo  Castellani  in  the   brain   of  patients  who 

53 


Chapter  II. 

have  died  of  the  infection.  This  tiypanosonia  is  introduced  into 
the  system  through  the  sting  of  a  tsetse-fly,  the  Glossina 
palpalis  (Col.  Sir  D.  Bruce). 

Occasionally  the  disease  breaks  out  in  the  form  of  acute 
mania  :  at  other  times  its  development  is  slow  and  insidious, 
with  only  a  slight  change  in  the  appearance  of  the  patient ; 
presently  vertigo  makes  its  appearance,  with  headache  and  swell- 
ing of  the  lymphatic  glands  of  the  neck.  At  last  come  trembling, 
somnolence,  a  quick  pulse  and  an  apathy  w^hich  increases  until 
it  reaches  the  point  of  torpor  or  coma.  No  really  sure  remedy 
is  known.  Sundry  arsenical  preparations  appear  to  be  efficacious, 
one  of  them,  atoxil,  has  recently  given  results  which  are  rather 
more  encouraging,  but  it  is  still  uncertain  as  to  whether  a  real 
cure  can  be  expected. 


IN    niK    col  KTVAKI>    OF    TlIK    KiJlAlOlllA  I,    IIOTKL,    ENTEBBE, 


54 


From  Naples  to  Entebbe. 

On  approachino-  the  north-west  corner  of  tlie  lake,  the 
steamer  enters  a  channel  l:)et\veen  tlie  Sesse  Islaiuls  and  the 
coast.      The  Archipelago  of  Sesse,  where  concessions  of  land  liave 


NATIVE   HUTS   AND   PLANTAINS. 


been  granted  to  Italian  companies  for  the  cultivation  of  coffee 
and  the  collection  of  rubber,  is  the  jewel  of  the  Victoria 
Nyanza.  Luxuriant  forests  cover  the  great  islands  down  to  the 
very  brink  of  the  lake,  where  the  foliage  is  mirrored  in  tlie 
limpid  waters.  You  would  esteem  it  an  earthly  paradise,  yet 
that  charming  scene  conceals  unspeakable  desolation.  Tlie  last 
forlorn  remnants  of  the  inhabitants,  decimated  by  the  dire 
disease,  live  mourning  for  their  daily  bereavements  and  dreading 
their  impending  fate. 

The  Winifred,  soon  after  passing  the  entrance  to  Murchisou 
Bay,  entered  the  Bay  of  Entebbe  and  came  alongside  the  pier 
about  3.30  p.m..  May  7th. 

The  expedition  had  now  reached  the  end  of  civilized  means 
of  communication,  after  travelling  4,750  miles  in  twenty-one  days. 


55 


Chapter  II. 

The  Duke  of  the  Ahriiz/j  was  received  on  landmg 
1)V  the  High  Commissioner  of  the  Protectorate  of  Uganda, 
Mr.  Hesketh  Bell,*  who  offered  him  hospitality  in  liis  own 
house,  together  with  Commander  Cagni.  The  other  members 
of  the  expedition  were  entertained  by  Messrs.  G.  F.  M.  Ennis 
and  ^y.  M.  Carter,  both  judges  of  tlie  High  Court  of  Uganda, 
and  by  Major  L.  C.  E.  Wyndliam.  Tlie  guides  were  i)ut  up 
at  tlie  Equatorial  Hotel,  kept  by  an  Italian,  Signore  Berti. 


*  In  October,   1907  the  High  Commissioner  of  the  Protectorate  received 
the  title  of  "  Governor." 

56 


CHAPTER  III. 
From  Entebbe  to  Fort  Portal. 

Entebbe  the  Capital  of  the  Protectorate —The  Six  Hills  of  Kampala— 
H.H.  Dandi  Chwa,  Kabaka  of    Uganda— The    Missions— Commander  Cagni's 

Illness  —  Equipment  —  Formation    of    Caravan  —  Departure    from    Entebbe 

General  Characteristics  of  the  Country  Traversed  —  Ba^anda  Yillao-es— 
Climate— Baganda  and  Suahili  Porters — Encampments— Visits  of  Chieftains  — 
Exchange  of  Presents— The  Camp  of  the  Blacks- Mitiana— Lake  Isolt— The 
Uganda-Toro  Frontier — First  sight  of  Ruwenzori — Butiti — King  Kasagama — 
Arrival  at  Fort  Portal. 


Entebbe,  or  Port  Alice,  founded 
by  Sir  Gerald  Portal  barely 
fifteen  years  ago,  is  the  political 
and  administrative  capital  of  the 
Uganda  Protectorate.  The  Pro- 
tectorate includes  much  more  than 
the  old  kingdom  of  Uganda,  having 
been  enlarged  by  the  addition  of 
the  kingdoms  of  Toro,  Unyoro  and 
Ankole,  which  form  a  semi-circle 
to  the  west  and  south  of  Uganda 
proper.  To  these  we  must  add  the 
district  to  the  east  of  Lake  Kiop-a  and  around  the  eni'eat 
extinct  volcano  Elgon,  as  well  as  the  vast  regions  known  as 
the  "  Nile  Province"  and  the  "  Rudolf  Province"  to  the  north. 


57 


Chapter  III. 

The  town  is  situated  upon  two  hills  at  the  extremity  of  a 
peninsula  formed  by  two  arms  of  the  lake.  The  streets  are  wide 
and  lined  with  houses,  built  according  to  the  usage  of  the 
tropics,  with  wide  verandas  surrounded  by  gardens  full  ot 
flowers.  The  site  is  enchantinof,  overlooking:  the  sfreat  lake, 
dotted  \\itli  i)icturesque  islands  ;  the  wire  netting,  however, 
over  windows,  verandas  and  doors,  tells  its  o^^-n  story  of 
malaria. 


(iKNKrvAL  vn:\v  of  Entebbe. 


There  is  an  hotel,  there  are  Protestant  and  Catholic 
Churches,  there  are  three  liospitals,  several  connnercial  firms 
(among  others  a  l)raiic]i  of  tlie  '•Italian  Colonial  Society" 
established  in  Zanzibar),  and  siiiidiy  shops  and  stores  kept  by 
Indians  and  Goanese. 

Along  the  shore  of  the  lake  stretches  a  considerable 
botanical     garden,   which     contains    a    collection    of    the     flora 

58 


From  Entebbe  to  Fort  Portal. 

of  the  region  as  well  as  experimental  cultivation  of  exotic 
plants,  such  as  European  vegetables,  Howers  and  fruits, 
coffee,  tea,  cotton  and  even  vines.  Manv  of  these  are 
already  cultivated  widely  and  with  good  residts  in  the 
Protectorate. 

At  the  northern  end  of  the  town  is  the  public  market, 
the  habitual  haunt  of  the  natives  who  congregate  in  great 
numbers  around  Enteljbe  hoping  to  get  a  job  or  an  engagement 
as  caravan  porters. 


SHED  IX  THE  MARKET,  EXTEBBE. 


The  native  villao-e,  numberino-  some  hundred  liuts  in  all, 
lies  further  inland,  among  plantations  of  bananas,  fields  of 
maize  and  lofty  trees. 

A  fine  and  well-kept  road  leads  from  Entebbe  to  Mengo 
or  Kampala,  the  native  capital  of  the  kingdom  of  Uganda, 
about  20  miles  off.  built  upon  a  group  of  hills,  each  one  of 
which   is   occupied   bv   a   different   connnunity.      Mengo    is   the 

59 


Chapter  TIL 

royal  hill,  Xakjisero  is  tlie  name  of  the  hill  where  tlie  English 
officials  reside  ;  the  biiildinos  and  churches  of  the  tln^ee 
different  missions,  one  Anglican  and  two  lioman  Catholic, 
French  and  English,  governed  each  by  its  l)isliop,  occupy  the 
three  sej)arate  hills,  Namireml)e,  Rubaga  and  Nsambya.      Last 


NATIVE   HUTS,    ENTEBBE. 


of  all  comes  Kampala,  "  the  hillock  which  was  contemptuously 
given  to  Captain  TiUgard  by  Mwanga,  where  the  first  seed 
was  planted  from  which  the  British  Administration  all  over 
these  vast  territories  grew  and  prospered."* 


Sir  Harry  Johnston,  "  The  Uganda  Protectorate,"  Vol.  I.,  London,  1904. 

60 


From  Entebbe  to  Fort  Portal. 

The  common  centre  of  these  diverse  conOTeorations  is  the 
bazaar,  with  shops  well  stocked  with  all  sorts  of  wares,  kept  by 
Indians. 

The  present  King  of  Uganda  is  His  Highness  the  Kabaka 
Dandi  Chwa,  aged  barely  thirteen  years.  He  was  placed  upon 
the  throne  in  1897,  when  his  father  Mwanga  was  deposed.  His 
ascent  to  the  throne  was  attended  by  the  ceremonies  conse- 
crated by  national  tradition,  with  one  important  exception. 
That  portion  of  the  solemn  and  ancient  ceremonial  which 
consisted  of  a  large  slaughter  of  subjects,  was  on  this  occasion 
omitted. 


THE   KAMPALA    ROAD,    ENTEBBE. 


The  constitution  is  unchanged.  The  child  King  has  three 
Regents  by  his  side,  the  Katekiro,  or  Prime  Minister,  the 
Supreme  Judge,  and  the  Treasurer.  He  governs  w\t\\  tlie 
assistance  of  a  Council  composed  of  twenty  chiefs  of  districts 
and  of  sixty-six  notables  who  represent  all  the  districts.  The 
members    of    this    CVnnicil    are    chosen    by   the   King,   but   the 

61 


Chapter  III. 

representative     of    the     Britisli     Government     has    the     right 
of  veto. 

It  is  to  be  lioped  that  Dandi  Chwa,  carefully  educated 
according  to  civilized  principles  of  modern  justice,  may  retain 
no  trace  of  the  bestial  ferocity  of  his  ancestors,  and  that  the 
royal  palace  of  Mengo  may  never  again  see  such  horrors  as 
steeped  it  in  blood  in  tlie  days  of  the  Kings  Mtesa  and 
Mwanga. 


HANGING   NESTS   OX    TlIK    LEAVES   OF   A    PALM. 


HiiiKbf'ds   of   liuinan    victims   sacrificed  at   a    word  from   a 
sorcerer,  wholesale  slaugliter  of  the   population  for  a  whim,  or 

62 


From  Entebbe  to  Fort  Portal. 

on  account  of  a  dream,  or  to  quiet  the  superstitious  terrors  of 
the  Kabaka,  torture,  mutilation,  daily  murders  of  wives,  of 
servants,  of  slaves,  the  coinitry  emptied  of  women  to  fill  the 
harems  of  the  kings  or  chieftains,  all  this  formed  a  condition  of 


^ 

Xy 

^JH 

A   ROAD   IN    UGANDA. 


affairs  whose  incidents  were  so  especially  ghastly  tliat  they 
would  seem  to  surpass  the  limits  of  human  possibility  if  they 
were  not  proved  by  the  unanimity  of  the  descriptions  of 
witnesses  who  saw  Uganda  in  those  days.  The  neighbouring 
kingdoms  were  in  a  similar  condition,  while  the  jjopulation  of 
the  islands  were  cannibals. 

The  transformation  of  the  country  in  so  few  years  is 
miraculous,  and  the  greater  portion  of  the  merit  is  to  be 
attributed  to  the  Missions.  These  Missions  are  tlie  direct 
continuation  of  tlie  first  Anglican  Mission  Avhich  came  to 
Uganda  in  1877  on  the  invitation  of  King  Mtesa,  transmitted 
to  England  by  a  letter  of  Stanley,  which  has  become  historical. 

63 


Chapter  III. 

This  was  followed  two  years  later  by  the  French  Komaii 
Catholic  Mission.  'I'hc  persecution  muler  Mwanga,  the  murder 
of  Bishop  Hanning'ton,  the  torture  and  bnrnino-  alive  of 
many  native  Christians  failed  to  put  a  stop  to  the  work  which 
progressed  with  extraordinary  rapidity,  imdisturbed  by  the  civil 
wars  and  political  changes.  In  1895,  an  English  Koman 
Catholic  Mission  was  added  to  the  list. 

The  ninnber  of  native  converts  to  Christianity  increased 
yearly  l)y  thousands,  while'  Islamism  remained  stationary. 
Manners  and   customs  rapidly  improved.      Education    followed 


NATnE   HUT. 


moral  training.  The  missionaries  created  a  written  language 
for  the  country  where  noiif  had  heretofore  existed.  Schools 
grew  up  by  hundreds  beside  the  ehurehes. 

64 


^ 


From  Jilntebbe  to  Fort  Portal. 

At  the  present  time  many  villages  around  Entebbe  and 
Kampala  are  entirely  Christian.  The  l)lacks  may  be  seen  any 
day  squatting  on  the  ground  around  the  catechist.  Throughout 
the  coinitry  numbers  of  natives  may  be  met  going  or  coming 
from  their  labour  in  the  fields,  praying  or  reciting  the  rosary 
on  their  way.  They  are  all  clad  in  tlie  long  white  tunic  with 
wide  sleeves,  which  has  almost  universally  replaced  the  older 
garment  made  out  of  strips  of  the  bark  of  a  special  variety  of 
fig-tree,  beaten  until  they  become  soft  and  flexible,  and  stitched 
together  with  great  art.  On  Sunday,  in  the  spacious  churches 
of  Mengo,  which  aiford  room  for  several  thousands  of  persons, 
men,  women  and  childen  may  be  seen  worshipping  with 
exemplary  fervour  and  decorum. 

On  the  other  hand,  it  cannot  be  denied  that  Islamism 
exercised  an  important  and  beneficial  influence  in  rescuing  the 
country  from  its  barbarous  condition.  In  many  districts  the 
Mohammedans  are  still  in  the  majority. 

The  Italian  expedition  remained  at  Entebbe  from  the  7  th  to 
the  loth  May  to  prepare  in  detail  the  organization  of  the 
caravan.  During  this  time  Commander  Cagni  unfortunately 
fell  a  victim  to  the  unhealthy  climate,  taking  the  malarial 
fever  on  the  8th  of  May.  This  persisted,  in  spite  of  quinine 
injections,  and  was  complicated  by  intestinal  inflammation.  It 
soon  became  necessary  to  remove  him  to  the  hospital,  which 
was  situated  in  a  healthier  position,  and  afforded  better 
accommodation. 

Owing  to  this  calamity,  the  Duke  lost  invaluable  assistance 
at  the  very  moment  when  the  work  began  to  be  difficult  and 
complicated. 

The  luggage  of  the  expedition  had  been  carried  by  porters 
to  the  courtyard  of  the  Equatorial  Hotel,  followed  by  a  crowd 

65  F 


Chapter  III. 

of  inquisitive  children  and  adults.  Here  the  cases  were  opened, 
and  their  contents  verified  and  inventoried.  The  whole  camp 
outfit,  including  tents,  beds,  sleeping  bags,  stools,  tables,  baths, 
cooking  utensils,  tlie  hermetically  sealed  cases  containing 
clothing  ;  the  })hotographic  materials,  and  the  materials  for  the 
zoological,  botanical  and  mineralogical  collections  ;  the  arms  and 
ammunition,  formed  1  1  4  loads  weighing  about  47  lbs.  each,  all 
numbered  and  so  marked  as  to  be  immediately  recognizable. 


A    lULLY    BIT   OF   ROAD. 


The  commissariat  formed  80  additional  loads  of  the  same 
weight,  eacli  one  of  whicli  contained  rations  for  12  persons 
during  one  day.  The  supplies  had  Ijeen  laid  in  on  a  calculation 
of  a  sojourn  of  40  days  above  the  snow-limit,  and  of  a  period  of 
the  same  lengtli  lielow,  to  allow  for  the  journey  from  Entebbe 
to  the  mountains  and  back.  The  rations  were  in  tin  boxes, 
soldered  and  enclosed  in  thin  wooden  boards.  Tlie  only  difier- 
ence  between  th«'  higli-mountain  rations  and  those  for  the  lower 
regions  was  that  tlie  latter  were  without  tiiincd   meat,  because 

66 


From  Entebbe  to  Fort  Portal. 

it  would  be  easy  to  rind  fresh   meat    supplies  tlirougliout    the 
inhabited  reo;ions. 

According  to  calculation  IIU  porters  were  needed  to  carry 
the  entire  equipment.  In  addition  to  these  there  were  the 
caravan  leaders,  the  personal  servants,  or  "  boys,"  with  their 
own  porters,  the  natives  who  were  needed  to  take  care  of  the 
horses  and  mules,  and  who  were  to  drive  the  oxen,  goats  and 
sheep  which  were  provided  for  the  sustenance  of  the  caravan, 


ACROSS   THE   MARSHES. 


and  other  natives,  with  sundry  minor   attributions.      The  total 
mounted  up  to  above  300  persons. 

Mr.  J.  Martin,  Collector,  who  had  special  experience  in 
organizing  caravans  and  journeys,  had  caused  the  men  to  be 
selected  and  got  together  during  the  months  preceding  the 
arrival  of  the  Italian  expedition  by  Sig.  BuUi,  an  ex-employe 
of  the  Italian  Colonial  Society,  who  was  also  to  accompany 
the  expedition. 


67 


F  2 


Chapter  III. 

Three  horses  and  three  mules  had  been  provided  for 
occasional  ridiiiu',  beside  two  rickshaws  holding-  one  or  two 
persons  each,  to  be  drawn  or  pushed  l)y  natives,  for  use  on  the 
relatively  level  portions  of  the  road. 


I'Al'YUI   AND   WATER   IJLIES. 


Kvervthiiig  was  ready  by  the  Titli  of  May.  The  Duke, 
however,  lingered  three  days  more,  as  he  could  hardly  make  up 
liis  mind  to  leave  Cag-ni  ])eliin(l.  At  last  it  became  obviously 
necessary  to  set  fortli  without  liiin.  Tlie  probable  duration  of 
his  illness  was  too  uncertain,  and  further  delay  would  have 
in\olved  the  risk  of  letting  the  best  season  pass,  not  to  mention 
the  risk  of  some  one  else  falling  ill,  and  so  «'ndangering  the  whole 
.success  of  the  expedition.     They  could  only  hope   that  Cagni, 

68 


iky 


THE    TROPICAL  FOREST 


From  Entebbe  to  Fort   l^ortal. 

thanks  to  the  devoted  care  of  the  excellent  Doctor  Hodges, 
might  recover  in  time  to  overtake  them.  With  tliis  object  in 
view,  he  was  left  provided  with  all  the  equipment  necessary  to 
permit  of  liis  setting  out  as  soon  as  he  should  be  sufficiently- 
recovered. 

On  the  14th  of  May,  H.K.H.  and  the  rest  of  tlie  party  took 
leave  of  the  kind  hosts  who  had  done  so  much  to  make  their 
stay  at  Entebbe  pleasant  for  them.  The  Collector,  Mr.  Martin, 
as  representative  of  the  Protectorate  Administration,  accom- 
})anied  them  as  far  as  the  frontier  kingdom  of  Uganda  with  an 
escort  of  twenty-seven  native  soldiers  and  sixty-seven  porters. 


ELEPHAXT    GRASS. 


Early  on  the  morning  of  the  15th  tlie  porters  with  their 
caravan  leaders,  the  boys,  and  the  soldiers  were  gathered  in 
the  courtyard  of  Berti's  Hotel,  where  the  loads  were  distributed, 
M'hile  the  Prince  and  his  companions  were  taking  leave  of  Cagni 


69 


Chapter  III. 

and  endeavouring  to  cheer  up  his  spirits  with  the  hope  of 
overtaking  them.  Bv  8.30  the  porters  had  their  loads  on  their 
heads,  and  started  on  their  way  in  a  long  file,  with  deafening- 
shouts,  on  the  wide  and  even  road  to  Kampala.      The  caravan 


THE   NATIVE    PATH. 


numbered  about  400  individuals,  and  the  vanguard  Avas  nearly 
out  of  siofht  bv  the  time  that  the  Prince  and  tlie  other  members 
of  the  expedition  started  in  their  turn. 

Soon  after  leaving  Entebbe  the  road  enters  under  the 
majestic  vaults  of  a  tropical  forest.  The  distance  from  P^ntebbe 
to  Fort  portal  is  about  180  miles,  with  an  ascent  of  some 
1,165  feet.  This  ascent  may  be  regarded  as  falling  into  four 
sections  belonging  to  separate  river  systems.  The  first  of  these 
collects  the  waters  whicli  flow  soutli ward  into  the  River  Katongo, 
a  tributary  of  tlie  Victoria  Nyanza.  Lake  Tsolt  belongs  to  this 
section.    Tlie  second  and  third  basins  contain  the  afHuents  of  the 


70 


FROM     FORT     PORTAL    TO     BUJONGOLO 


SECTION 

Horizonral  Scale    1   1  000,000 
Vorhcal  Scale     1  5.000 


The  heights  oF  F'Portal  and  Entebbe  are  based  upon  barometrical  observations  tal^en  in  the 
botanical  garden  oF  Entebbe  and  near  the  residence  oF the  Collector  oFF^ Portal 


m 

OQ 

1 

LU 

1- 
z 
llJ 

3861 

3861\ 

L.VICTORIA 

FROM     ENTEBBE    TO    FORT    PORTAL 


S  ECTION 

Horizontal   Scale    1^  1,000.000 
Venl-ical  Scale     1: 5.000 


The  heights  oF  F^Portal  and  Entebbe  are  based  upon  barometrical  observations  taken  in  the 
botanical  garden  oF  Entebbe  and  near  the  residence  oF  the  Collector  oFF' Portal 


From  I^ntebbe  to  Fort  Portal. 

Misisi,  which  takes  its  course  northward  and  flows  into  the 
Albert  Nyanza.  A  last  rise  brings  the  traveller  to  the 
watershed  between  the  tributaries  of  Lake  Albert  Edward  and 
those  of  Lake  Albert.  This  distribution  is  brought  out  in  the 
vertical  section  annexed. 


IX    THE   TROPICAL   FOREST. 

This  vast  region,  which  forms  a  sort  of  tableland  between 
the  three  lakes,  is  intersected  in  every  direction  by  ridges  of 
hills,  lower,  steeper  and  more  crowded  to  the  east,  more  dis- 
tinctly marked  into  ranges  to  the  west. 

71 


Chapter  III. 

Tlie  colour  of  the  earth  is  a  brick-red  throughout  tlie  district. 
The  vegetation  is  distributed  according  to  accidents  of  the  soil. 
The  high  ground,  the  top  of  the  hills,  and  their  slopes  are 
covered  with  deep  grass  and  occasional  single  trees  or  groups  of 
a  few  trees  set  in  biusliwood.  The  valley  bottoms  where  water 
flows  are  covered  Mith    luxuriant  forests.      Where  the   waters 


L 

^ 

In 

f^ 

I'.ETWEEN    SWAMP   AND    FOREST. 


stagnate   stretch  "vast  swamps  covered  with  gigantic  papyrus, 
under  Avhose  sliade  flourislies  a  rich  gro^vth  of  aquatic  plants. 

From  tlie  higher  lidges,  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach, 
stretches  an  midulating  plain,  whose  rounded  hillocks,  covered 
with  deep  yellow  gi'ass,  are  diversified  by  low-lying  strips  of 
dark  m-een  forest. 


From  Entebbe  to  Fort  Portal. 

Tlie  word  grass,  l)y  tlie  way,  is  hardly  appropriate  to  a 
growth  which,  while  reaching  a  height  of  from  10  to  20  feet, 
is  at  the  same  time  so  dense  as  to  make  it  practically  impossible 
to  deviate  from  the  path,  and  others  far  more  analogy  to  a  huge 
bed  of  reeds  than  to  a  meadow.  It  is  called  "  elephant  grass," 
and  is  indeed  a  pasture  appropriate  to  such  a  herd.  From 
time  to  time  the  elephant  grass  makes  wav  for  herbaceous- 
vegetation  on  a  more  modest  scale,  not  more  than  three  feet 
hio-h,   and  dotted  with   innumerable  flowers. 


J'LAXTAIX    GR(AES. 


The  natives  are  in  the  habit  of  settino-  lire  to  the  oTasses 
during  the  dry  season.  Possibly  the  vast  fires  thus  kindled,  and 
wliicli  spread  especially  on  tlie  heights  where  the  earth  is  dry 
and  'where  the  wind  fans  the  flames,  destroy  the  young  trees, 
and  so  hinder  the  formation  of  forests  except  in  the  sheltered 
valleys  beside  running  water.  The  fact  is  that,  as  a  rule,  the 
trees  which  stand  here  and  there  among  the  tall  grasses,  and 
give  the  country  the  cliaracteristic  look  of  a  park,  are  all  of 

73 


Chapter  III. 

very  consulenible  size.  The  principal  species  are  acacia, 
mimosa,  euphorbia,  erithryna,  and  spathodea,  both  these  last 
with  brilliant  scarlet  flowers. 

At  the  foot  of  these  trees,  anioncj;  tlie  brushwood  and  low 
plants,  is  nearly  always  to  be  found  one  of  those  curious  cones 
constructed  by  termites  which  characterize  all  Central  African 
landscapes.  Tt  \\()uld  seem  as  if  some  reason  must  exist  for 
their  invariable  connection  with  these  isolated  groups  of  trees. 
Possibly  the  termites,  by  collecting  earth  in  one  spot,  flivour 
the  development  of  bushes  and  creeping  plants,  which  in  their 
turn  serve  to  shelter  the  g-rowth  of  some  forest  tree  until  its 
roots  are  lirnily  established  in  the  soil. 

The  forest  zones  in  the  valleys  along  the  brooks  are 
real  oases  of  virgin  forest.  The  luxuriant  trees  over  a 
hundred  feet  high,  diverse  species  of  acacias,  majestic  palms 
(Borassus  and  Raphia),  cassia  and  dracsena,  are  overgrown  with 
climbing  plants,  and  entwined  with  the  long  ropes  of  giant 
lianas.  Troops  of  monkeys  are  frequently  seen  leaping  from 
branch  to  branch  with  shrill  cries.  The  white-tailed  Colobus  is 
the  commonest  species.  The  forest  soil,  even  on  days  of  blazing 
sunshine,  remains  damp  and  elastic.  Off  the  path  the  whole 
ground  is  one  carpet  of  deep  moss. 

The  contrast  with  the  open  tracts  enhances  the  charm  of  the 
forests.  After  crossing  a  slope  scorched  by  the  sun,  the 
traveller  enters  into  the  profound  shade  heavy  witli  the 
perfumes  of  acacia,  mimosa,  jasmine,  and  honeysuckle. 

The  district  is  fiiirly  populous,  but  the  inhabitants  are  so 
hidden  away  among  th(-ir  banana  groves  and  impenetrable 
grasses  that  it  is  possible  to  pass  quite  close  to  villages 
without  noticing  them.  They  consist  of  clusters  of  huts 
usually   situated    half-way  up    a    hill,  surrounded    by  tufts    of 

74 


From  Entebbe  to  Fort  Portal. 


bananas,  little  cultivated  fields  and  a  few  forest  trees.  The  huts 
are  of  the  usual  conical  type.  The  circular  roof  thatched  with 
grass  straw  is  artfully  constructed  to  reach  down  to  the  ground 
on  every  side  except  over  the  entrance,  M'here  it  is  cut  sliort  and 


BAGANDA   WOMEN. 


projects  into  a  low  narrow  porch.  The  interior  is  encumbered  by 
the  numerous  pillars  and  posts  which  support  this  heavy  roof. 
Some  of  the  huts  are  surrounded  by  an  enclosure,  or  even  by 
several  enclosures,  so  that  three  or  four  courts  must  be  crossed 
to  reach  the  house. 


70 


Chapter  III. 

Tlie  land  around  the  huts  is  cultivated  for  a  short  distance 
only.      As  is  iisual   in   tropical   countries,   the  indolence   of  the 
population  limits  the  production  of  the  soil  to  the  amount  which 
is    strictly    necessary    to    sustain    life.       There    is    no    trace    of 
co-operation.      Each   family  owns  its  hut  and   its  field,  which   it 


i;.\GANDA. 


cultivates  for  its  own  exclusive  use.  Agricultural  labour  is 
performed  entirely  by  women.  They  cultivate  plantain,  egg- 
fruit,  potatoes,  sweet  potatoes,  beans,  maize,  dura,  cotton,  sesame 
and  sugar-cane.  A  delicious  fruit,  always  cool  and  refreshing,  is. 
the  pawpaw. 

70 


From   Entebbe  to  Fort  Portal. 

The  banana,  or  plantain,  is  the  staple  of  diet.  There  are 
several  varieties.  Besides  the  sweet  banana,  which  is  eaten  ripe 
and  raw,  tliere  is  a  plantain  ^^■hicll  is  gathered  unripe  and  eaten 
cooked.  From  tlie  flesh  of  another  variety  a  sort  of  bread  is 
made.      The  juice  is  pressed  out  and    forms    a   refreshing,  cool 


'"'^l^^'C^  jJ^^^M 

^BA  /;         I 

i^^l^S 

^11 

s.                                                                  '"a^m' 

BAGANDA   WOMEN. 


drink  called  Mbisi.  This  becomes  alcoholic  and  intoxicating  if 
allowed  to  ferment,  and  is  then  called  Mwenge.  Finally  the 
leaves  and  stalks  are  used  for  various  purposes.  The  origin 
of  the  cultivated  banana  is  uncertain.  Botanically  it  is  quite 
different  from  the  wild  native  banana,  and  it  is  doul)tful 
whether  it  could  have  been  derived  from  it. 


77 


Chapter  III. 

The  path,  which  seems  at  times  hke  a  sort  of  deep  trench 
cut  through  walls  of  high  grass,  and  then  again  opens  out  into  a 
tolerably  wide  road  over  tracts  of  plain,  proceeds  as  straight  as 
any  ancient  Roman  highway,  crossing  liills  or  following  their 
ridges,  descending  into  valleys  and  piercing  forests,  or  running 
over  reaches  of  watery  swamps  on  a  low  viaduct.  This  latter 
is    constructed    by    cutting    down     papyrus    stalks    and    canes 


I 'AW  I 'AW   TREE. 


and  throwing  tlieni  across  the  road  from  side  to  side,  thus 
forming  a  thick  stratum  upon  which  the  path  is  built  of  sand 
and  earth,  beaten  hard  and  strengthened  on  either  side  by  piles 
driven  deep  into  tlie  iniid. 

This  is  the  ancient  road   which   existed  before   the  British 
occupation.      It  is  kept   up   with  great  care  by  gangs  of  lialf- 

78 


From  Entebbe  to  Fort  Portal. 

naked   women,   old   and   young,    who  weed  o\it   the   grass  and 
smooth  the  way  witli   little  native  spades. 

The  first  part  of  the  road,  where  tlie  hills  are  nearer  to 
one  another,  runs  incessantly  up  and  down  the  steep  inclines. 
After  Lake  Isolt  the  slopes  become  gentler,  with  intervals  of 
plain,  and  the  marches  are  consequently  less  fatiguing.  The 
swamps,  too,  diminish  as  the  traveller  approaches  Fort  Portal, 
and  the  country  takes  on  a  healthier  look. 


porters'  huts. 


The  temperature  is  pleasant  in  the  early  morning,  but 
towards  midday  it  l^ecomes  very  hot,  although,  fortunately,, 
during  the  hottest  hours  the  sky  is  nearly  always  covered 
with  clouds,  which,  be  they  thick  or  thin,  are  always  sufficient 
to  veil  tlie  l^lazing  rays  of  the  sun.  Nearly  every  day  or 
night  there  is  a  violent  but  brief  thunderstorm  with  a 
gale  and  torrents  of  rain.  Happily,  the  Italian  caravan  liad 
no  experience  of  the  terrible  storms,  accompanied  ])y  water- 
spouts,   cyclones    and    dangerous    electrical    discharges,    whicli 

79 


Chapter  IK. 

inundate,   tear    up,   and   destroy  everything    upon    tlieh*    path, 
and  are  said  to  he  not  infrequent  in  Uganda. 

The  changes  of  weather  are,  as  a  rule,  sudden.  In  a  few 
minutes  the  sky,  up  till  tlien  clear  or  scarcely  veiled  with  a 
liofht  cloud,  p-rows  hlack  as  niidnio-ht  and  threatening.  With 
^qual  rapidity,  after  a  hrief  period  of  rain  the  heavy  dark 
clouds  are  dispelled  In'  the  hlazlng  sun. 


/ 

1     \ 

1     \ 

^^ 

m 

1 

H^iniiiiitfi  lAiiii^yli 

^^ptfrld 

^■1 

^  k 

1 

MM 

'^^^H 

Iw  V'  \ ' ' 

4PVI 

^^HflfeflL.^^ 

'^z- 

/ 

-  -'''^'■■''"^ 

y  >///   ,    -j[^-:^,  \ 

■^  '-• 

lUILDING   A    HUT. 

The  duration  of  tlie  marches  was  from  three  to  six 
hours,  during  which  period  from  10  to  18  miles  were  covered. 
The  porters,  as  a  rule,  walk  fast ;  in  some  places  tliey  nearly 
run.  The  caravan  usually  started  with  the  dawn,  ahout  5.30  ; 
and  stopped  hy  midday  so  as  to  rest  duii ng  the  hot  hours. 
On   the   march    tlu-   caravan   covered   nearlv  half  a    kilometre. 


80 


cq 
> 

I 


From  Entebbe  to  Fort  Portal. 

The  diii  of  the  chattering,  laughing  and  shouting  was  a  httle 
diminished  in  the  hard  bits  of  road  only  where  a  steep  up-hill 
would  set  even  those  who  were  not  loaded  panting.  From 
every  little  village  along  the  way  the  natives  ran  out,  curious 
to  see  the  sight  and  exchange  chatter  and  laughter  with  the 
porters.  Now  and  then  the  travellers  met  a  caravan  bringing 
salt  from  Toro,  or  ivory  from  the  Congo,  or  even  a  white  trader 
travellino;  with  his  own  escort. 

The  native  escort  exercised  a  certain  discipline  over  the 
numerous  party,  and  intervened  from  time  to  time  to  adjust 
quarrels  and  disputes  started,  as  a  rule,  by  the  porters  who,  in 
order  to  lighten  their  own  labour,  would  requisition  by  force 
any  other  natives  whom  tliey  might  meet  on  the  road. 

The  blacks  are  on  the  whole  childlike,  good-natured  and 
peaceable,  or  ill-tempered  and  savage,  according  as  they  are 
managed.  With  a  little  tact  and  goodwill,  not  wdthout 
necessary  firmness,  it  is  easy  to  direct  their  impulsive  natures. 

The  great  majority  of  the  caravan  consisted  of  Baganda, 
the  real  native  population  of  Uganda,  whose  anthropological 
characteristics  are  so  diverse  as  to  presuppose  the  product  of 
mingled  elements.  Some  of  their  features  are  distinctly 
negroid  ;  as,  for  instance,  woolly,  jet  black  hair  ;  the  nose  sunk 
at  the  root,  flat  and  wide  ;  broad,  protuberant  lips  and 
projecting  ears.  But  the  prognathism  is  not  marked,  and 
the  brow  is  wide  and  not  retreating.  They  are  usually 
lean,  not  muscular,  and  do  not  give  the  impression  of  a 
very  strong  people. 

Their  manners  and  customs  seem  more  advanced  than  in 
many  other  African  tribes.  They  neither  dye  nor  grease  their 
skin  ;  they  do  not  tattoo  their  persons  nor  cover  themselves 
with   decorative  scars,  and    with   tlie  excej)tion  of  the  children 

81  G 


Chapter  III. 

and   a   few    women    they    are    not    loaded  with    necklaces    and 
bracelets. 

Many  a  traveller  has  been  astonished  by  their  complex  social 
order,  a  verital)le  f'endal  system,  wliile  in  their  legends  and 
traditions,  in  tlie  desis^ns  of  their  household  utensils  made  of 
plaited  grass,  in  the  form  of  their  musical  string  instruments,  in 
their  astronomical  symbols  carved  upon  horns,  and  in  certain 
burial  rites,  indications  have  been  suggested  of  relations  and 
contact  M'ith  ancient  Egypt. 


VISIT   OF   A    CHIEF   WITJI    II IS   C'OUKT,    BRINGING   PRESENTS. 


The  Baganda  have  preserved  the  history  of  their  ancient 
dynasty  bv  ])ure  verbal  tradition.  It  consists  of  thirty-six 
names  of  klims,  and  must  date  back  as  far  as  the  fourteenth  or 
fifteenth  century. 

The  Suahili  porters  formed  a  smaller  part  of  the  caravan 
than  the  Baganda.  The  Suahili  are  a  cross  between  Arabs 
and  Bantu  negroes.  Coming  originally  from  the  coast,  they 
are  now  scattered  over  tlie  whole  of  Central  Africa. 

82 


From  Entebbe  to  Fort  Portal. 

The  encanipnieiits  were  always  situated  at  a  certain  distance 
from  the  villages,  in  places  selected  beforehand  and  prepared 
for  the  purpose.  There  was  usually  a  hut  where  meals  were 
provided  for  the  Europeans,  and  one  or  two  sheds  to  slielter 
the  equipment  from  the  weather.  Around  tlie  sheds  stood  tlie 
European  tents.  Mr.  Martin  formed  a  second  smaller  camp. 
Eno-lish  and  Italian  flao-s  were  flown  over  each.  The  tents 
were    surrounded    by   a    zeriba    or    enclosure    of    plaited    cane 


DAXCIXG    IX    THE   PORTERS'   CAMP 


which   served   less   as   a  defence  than   as  a   means   of  dividing- 
the  European  camp  from  that  of  the  native  porters. 

The  native  porters  would  arrive  at  their  destination  at  a 
run,  sinorino;  and  shouting;,  throw  down  their  loads  hastily  on 
the  spot  fixed  for  the  purpose,  and  immediately  set  to  work 
to  build  huts  for  their  own  shelter.  The  huts  would  spring  up 
all  around  with  the  most  marvellous  rapidity.     The  method  of 


83 


o  2 


Chapter  III. 

construction  is  most  iii^cnious.  A  ninnl)ei-  of  sliglit  rods  or 
flexible  canes  are  stuck  into  tlie  earth  in  a  circle.  Their  upper 
ends  are  bent  so  as  to  meet  in  the  middle  and  interwoven 
so  as  to  form  a  dome.  Upon  this  are  placed  l)undles  of  grass 
disposed  in  such  a  manner  as  to  leave  a  narrow  opening  for  tlie 
entrance.  Tlius  in  less  than  a  quarter  of  an  hour  a  vast  grassy 
plain  is  transformed  into  a  considerable  village.  While  the 
work  proceeds,  there  arrive  from  the  neighbouring  villages  long- 
files  of  women  and  old   men  carrying  on  their  heads  parcels  of 


WKESTI.l.Nc;    MATCH    AMUXCi    THE   PORTEKS. 

fruit  and  of  sweet  potatoes  wrapped  in  plantain  leaves. 
Swarms  of  naked  children  accompany  tiiem.  Tlie  tiny  ones 
are  carried  on  their  mothers'  backs  in  a  fold  of  their  garment. 
In  this  way  the  caravan  lives  entirely  on  food  supplied  by  the 
population  of  the  regions  crossed. 

In  the  meantime  the  Duke  would  receive  a  visit  of 
ceremony  from  some  chieftain,  whose  arrival  in  camp,  attended 
witli    tilt'    p<»inj)    befitting    his    dignitv,    had   \)vl'\i    heralded    by 

84 


From  Entebbe  to  Fort   Portal. 

diveis  luesseiigei's.  Now  the  oreut  niaii  liiniself  would  appear, 
clad  in  a  flowing  white  tunic,  or  a  mantle  of  more  or  less  costly 
material,  and  with  sandalled  feet,  surrounded  bv  retainers 
bearing  the  umbrella  and  stool,  the  insignia  of  power,  and 
followed  by  a  train  of  ministers  and  a  bodyguard  armed  with 
lances  and  staves. 

The   rear   was   usually  brought  up   by  a   crowd    of   natives 
driving  goats  and  sheep,  or  even  calves  and  bulls,  and  ])earing 


^.•*  ■■■-'BKl 

9k 

^dj^^H 

Hy^'O^^j^HDi 

^^^ 

I^^^^^^^^^H 

^^^^^^^--V 

^SmslSI^ 

HHHBHH|^^^^^^^^^^^^H 

Bkij^i^ 

m 

«^^ .  ;|P.,JQH 

k^Blht  1*^^  ^^^^^^B 

Br^^^ 

^^^ 

NATIVE   BAND. 


baskets  full  of  fowls,  eggs  and  bananas,  to  be  presented  as  gifts 
to  the  strangers.  A  noisy  band  with  drums,  trumpets,  horns 
and  flutes  would  either  follow  or  precede  the  cortege.  Some- 
times the  chiefs  would  come  with  their  escorts  as  far  as  the 
boundary  of  their  own  territory  to  meet  the  expedition,  and 
accompany  it  to  its  halting-place.      As   to  the  nuisicians,  they 


80 


Chapter  TIL 

would  frequently  accompany  the  expedition  for  days  together, 
leaving-  it  honour  with  their  cruelly  persistent  music. 

The  Duke,  or  some  member  of  the  expedition  chosen  to  repre- 
sent him,  would  next  return  the  chieftain's  visit  and  present 
a  gift,  usually  quite  moderate  in  proportion  to  the  value 
received.  Tlie  dwellings  of  the  chiefs  are  circular  huts,  with 
walls  of  plaited  reeds  and  the  usual  native  roof  The 
interior  is  divided  l)y  curtains  into  various  rooms.  The  walls 
are  adorned  with  illustrations  from  European  periodicals.  The 
floors  are  covered  with  mats  and  skins.  There  is  usually 
a  fair  supply  of  chairs  and  cushions.  The  whole  is  clean  and 
orderly.  The  hut  is  surrounded  by  several  zeribas.  In  the 
courts  between  the  zeribas  are  huts  for  women,  slaves, 
soldiers,  etc. 

On  the  first  days  of  the  march  the  need  of  attending  to 
inniuneraljle  details,  in  order  to  effect  the  best  arrangement  of 
the  whole  and  systematize  the  work  of  each,  left  the  members 
of  the  expedition  very  little  time  to  enjoy  the  picturesque 
aspects  of  tlie  adventure.  Later  on,  as  each  one  grew 
accustomed  to  his  special  attributions,  every  hour  became  a 
source  of  new  enjoyment. 

The  most  remarkable  and  changeful  spectacle  was  presented 
1)V  the  swarming  native  camp,  witli  its  deafening  racket  and 
perpetual  excitement,  dominated  by  the  incessant  rolling  of 
drums  and  the  inharmonious  strains  of  uncouth  musical  instru- 
ments, the  loud  cackling  of  })oultry,  tlie  bleating  of  flocks  and 
lowing  of  cattle.  Now  and  again  noisy,  jabbering  crowds  would 
.surround  dancers  or  wrestlers.  Women  who  had  come  to 
fetch  food  for  tlir  portns,  men  from  the  neighbouring  villages, 
small  children,  even,  would  remain  in  camp  to  add  to  the 
hubbub  and  confusion. 

86 


3 


From  Entebbe  to  Fort  Portal. 

Groups  of  native  converts,  strangely  contrasting  with  their 
heathen  surroundings,  would  pray  in  a  loud  \oice,  or  recite  the 
rosary.     In  addition  to  the  rosary,  they  were  often  adorned  with 


BETWEEN    ENTEBBE   AND   FORT   PORTAE. 


crosses,  medals  and  reliquaries  hanging  around  their  necks. 
Here  a  Mohammedan  would  be  worshipping  on  his  Ijit  of 
carpet  at  sunset,  while  yonder  the  native  escort  ^^ould  he 
going  through  their  daily  drill. 

As  evening  closes  in,  the  camp  is  lit  up  hy  hundreds  of 
fires,  around  which  the  porters  sit  until  far  on  in  the  niglit, 
roasting  the  sweet  potatoes,  or  boiling  tlie  plantains  which, 
with  the  addition  occasionally  of  a  little  dried  tisli,  form  their 
sole  diet. 

After  a  march  of  five  or  six  hours  over  heavy  ground, 
carrying  fairly  substantial  loads  on  their  heads,  this  frugal 
single  meal  was  amply  sufficient  to  their  simple  needs.  Banana 
wine  is  a  rare  luxury,  while  water  is  scarce  and  filthy,  with  a 
disgusting  smell  and  taste  even  when  boiled. 


Chapter  111. 

The  various  iiienil)ers  of  the  expedition  were  l)y  no  meunn 
idle  during  canip.  The  Duke  was  in  tlie  liabit  of  attending  in 
person  to  the  sorting  and  verifying  of  the  equipment  ;  to  the 
meteorological  observations  taken  with  instruments  arranged 
in  the  little  camp  observatory  wliich  was  set  up  at  each  camp 
in  the  most  suitable  position  ;  and  to  the  observations  of 
lonii'itude   and   latitude. 


^^ 


r^_ 


,/v 


CAMP    AT    I'.UJON'GO. 


At  each  halt  Dr.  Cavalli  was  immediately  besieged  by 
crowds  of  native  patit^nts  from  every  district,  while  one  or 
another  of  the  porters  was  sure  to  make  daily  demands  upon 
his  treatment. 

Sella,  besides  his  ])liotographic  work,  would  spend  part  of 
the  afternoon  in  roaming  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  camp  with 
Koccati    and     Cavalli     in     (juest    of    botanical    and    zoological 

88 


From  Entebbe  to   Fort  Portal. 

specimens.  Contrary  to  expectation,  the  lower  forms  of  animal 
life  proved  to  be  rare.  Possibly  they  have  been  annihilated 
by  the  termites  whicli  invade  and  destroy  everything.  Native 
men  and  boys  from  the  neighbouring  villages  would  join 
eagerly  in  the  quest,  and  show  visible  amusement  at  the 
sight  of  Roccati  treasuring  up  diminutive  insects,  spiders  and 
scorjDions,  and  putting  by  lizards  and  chamreleons. 


CA^IP   AT    KATEXDE. 


Now  and  again  a  shooting  party  would  set  forth.  Guinea- 
fowls  and  doves  abound  in  the  plantations  around  the  camps. 
The  region  is  rich  in  elephants,  zebras,  antelopes,  lions  and 
leopards.  This  sort  of  game,  how^ever,  requires  special  beating, 
and  is  not  compatible  with  the  rapid  marches  of  a  caravan  bent 
upon   a   totally   different   aim.      It   was   only   very   seldom   and 

89 


Chapter  III. 

ni  a  great  distance  that  an  occasional  antelope  was  seen  fleeing 
from  the  approach  of  the  party. 

Towards  evening  the  air  would  grow  cool,  and  after  dinner 
the  Europeans  would  gather  round  the  now  far  from  unpleasant 
warmth  of  a  great  blazing  fire  which  served  also  as  protection 
against  mosquitoes.  At  night  the  latter  became  a  real  plague  ; 
through  long  and  wakeful  hours  you  would  hear  their  drone 
diversified  l)v  the  crv  of  the  sentinels  and  the  strano-e  trill 
of  the  hiu/a-hnga,  a  tiny  bird  which  builds  its  nest  around 
camping  places. 

Between  three  and  four  in  tlie  mornino-  the  reveille  was 
sounded  by  trumpets  and  the  camp  at  once  filled  with  din.  It 
took  tlie  caravan  little  more  than  an  hour  to  get  ready  to 
start.  Tlie  porters  fell  upon  their  loads  and  set  forth  with 
their  usual  shrill  cries. 

The  journey  from  Entebbe  to  Fort  Portal  took  fifteen  days. 

On  the  18th  of  May  they  encamped  at  Mitiana,  near  a 
branch  of  the  French  Roman  Catholic  Mission  at  the  foot  of  a 
hill,  on  the  to})  of  which  stood  a  small  shrine.  They  exchanged 
visits  with  the  Missionary  Fathers,  who  sent  presents  of 
excellent  European  fruits  and  vegetables.  On  the  following 
night  they  reached  Bujongo  in  sight  of  Lake  Isolt,  a  lake 
rich  in  fisli  and  dotted  witli  wooded  islands.  This  and  the 
following  cam})s  were  fortified  with  strong  hedges  and  palisades, 
because  the  country  was  infested  with  lions  to  such  an  extent 
that   the  natives  would  not   risk  travelling  by  night. 

On  tlie  2oth  of  May  they  crossed  the  border  between  the 
Province  of  Uganda  and  tlie  Western  IVovince,  which  includes 
the  districts  of  Toro,  Unyoro  and  Ankole.  In  addition  to  the 
native  chieftains  of  the  new  district,  followed  by  their  respective 
courts,  the  Prince  was  here  met  by  the  Sub -Commissioner  of  the 

90 


From   Entebbe  to  Fort  Portal. 


province,  Mr.  A.  F.  Kiiowles,  who  was  to  accompany  the 
expedition  throughout  his  own  jurisdiction,  while  Mr.  Martin 
returned  with   his  escort   to  Entebbe. 


RUWEXZOKI    SEEN    FRO:\I    BlTITl. 


Henceforward  the  reveille  was  no  longer  sounded  by 
trumpets,  but  by  the  rolling  of  the  Unyoro  drums.  The  game 
now  seemed  to  become  more  abundant.  Numerous  deep 
•elephant  tracks  crossed  the  path.  Herds  of  antelopes  became 
more  frequently  visible  in  the  far  distance.  Vultures,  hawks, 
and  other  l)irds  of  prev  wheeled   in  the  sky. 

A  new  feature  of  the  landscape  was  the  granite  formation, 
which  here  and  there  pushes  its  way  through  the  soil  in  rounded 
hummocks  somewhat  similar  to  the  rocks  known  as  movtonnces, 
in  regions  which  have  passed  through  a  glacial  period.  The 
grass  became  less  deep,  the  trees  and  flowering  shrubs  increased 

91 


Chapter  III. 

in    miinbers,   while   l)et\veen    the   hillocks  were   open   spaces   of 
irround  nearly  harren  save  for  a  m-owtli   of  redchsh-yellow  PTass 
mingled   with   low   ferns.       The   plantain  groves   diminished   in 
extent  and  were  in  })art  replaced  l)y  sweet  potatoes  and  beans. 
The  district  was  less  thickly  jjopulated  than  that  whicli  preceded. 

The  march  was  often  lieavy  and  fatiguing.  The  weather 
had  changed  for  the  worse,  and  frecpient  rainfalls  made  the 
track  muddy  and  slippery. 

As  the  expedition  drew  nearer  to  the  Lakes  Albert  and 
Albert  Edward,  their  impatience  to  see  the   chain  of  Kuwenzori 


NK.Vr.    JUTiri,    MITJI    laWKXZoRI    IN    THE    lUCKdROUND. 


grew  acute,  and  from  tht^  moment  when  they  entered  the  Tora 
district  their  attention  concentrated  itself  upon  the  western 
horizon,  especially  when  the  ])ath  led  them  over  the  top  of  some 


i\ 


^ 

o 

s 


From  Entebbe  to  Fort  Portal. 

hill.  Twice  they  faueictl  that  they  had  sight  of  snowy  peaks, 
but  it  was  an  illusion  created  by  white  clouds  upon  the 
horizon. 

Finally,  on  the  morning  of  the  28th  of  May,  from  the  top 
of  certain  hills  to  the  north  of  Kaibo,  which  form  part  of  the 
watershed  between  Lake  Albert  Edward  and  Lake  Albert,  on  a 
day  when  the  sky  was  clouded  but  the  air  clear,  they  suddenly 
saw  against  the  sky  to  the  westward  the  snowy  peaks  of 
the  o-reat  chain,  which  were  about  45  miles  off,  and  looked  as 
if  they  were  suspended  in  the  air,  for  their  feet  were  enveloped 
in  mists  while  a  heavy  rack  of  clouds  liung  so  low  over  the 
sunnnits  as  nearly  to  rest  upon  them.  Seen  from  this  point,  the 
mountains  appear  divided  into  three  main  groups.  Of  these, 
the  central  one  is  dominated  by  a  characteristically  cloven  peak, 
covered  with  snow,  which  seems  to  be  the  highest  of  all,  and 
which  is  separated  from  the  group  to  its  south  by  a  deep  notch  ; 
the  third  group  is  to  the  north  or  north-east  of  the  central 
mass.  The  foot  of  the  glaciers,  which  come  down  from  the 
high  ridges,  is  hidden  by  the  projecting  spurs  of  the  range. 

They  encamped  that  day  at  Butiti,  where  the  Missions 
(Protestant  and  Koman  Catholic)  were  abundantly  hospitable. 
The  camp  was  protected  by  a  strong  palisade  guarded  by 
sentinels,  and  great  fires  were  kindled  all  around.  Occasional 
roars  heard  distinctly  through  the  silence  of  the  night  showed 
that  these  precautions  were  far  from  superfluous.  Two  weeks 
later,  at  Misonga,  not  far  from  Butiti,  a  lion  made  its  way  into 
Cagni's  camp  and  succeeded  in  escaping  unharmed,  thanks 
to  the   darkness  of  the  night. 

On  the  following  morning,  May  29th,  about  an  hour  and 
a-half  from  Butiti,  the  Prince  and  his  companions  climbed  a  liill 
close  to  the  path  in  order  to  get  another  look  at  Pun\enzori, 

93 


Chapter  IT  I. 

which  was  here  visible  in  ah  its  splendour.  They  had  now 
come  further  north-west,  and  hence  the  northernmost  group 
of  the  chain  appeared  nearer  to  the  central  group,  which 
from  this  point  also  appeared  to  be  the  highest  of  all,  and  to 
show  the  greatest  extent  of  glacier. 

The  sky  was  clear  over  the  mountains  to  westward,  but  dark 
and  stormy  in  the  east.  Right  and  left  stretched  an  undulating- 
plain  with  low  rounded  hills,  reddish  or  earthy  yellow,  dotted 
with  dark  green  patches  of  euphorbia,  or  of  the  light  and  finely 
cut  foliage  of  the  acacia.  Farther  oif,  the  landscape  melted 
into  tlie  misty  distance,  and  finally  vanished  from  sight  near 
the  foot  of  the  mighty  spurs  of  the  range. 

Moore  was  reminded  in  these  regions  of  the  Alps  as  seen 
from  the  Piedmontese  or  Lombard  Plains,  but  the  comparison 
does  not  hold  good.  The  difference  is  profound,  although  so 
subtle  as  to  baffle  analysis.  It  is  true  that  the  far-off  slopes 
clad  with  elephant  grass,  and  the  swamps  hidden  under  tufted 
papyrus  resemble  our  hills  and  our  cultivated  valleys.  There  is 
no  definite  sign  to  indicate  that  those  far-off  plains,  which  to 
all  appearance  might  consist  of  meadows  and  cornfields,  maize 
plantations  and  orchards,  are  in  reality  the  lair  of  elephants, 
buffaloes,  antelopes  and  lions.  Yet  still  the  picture  is  in  a 
different  key,  with  a  grim  solemnity  of  its  own.  The  likeness  is 
the  fruit  rather  of  a  mental  comparison  than  of  a  real,  direct 
impression  from  Nature.  Signs  of  the  handiwork  of  man  are 
nearly  totally  absent.  The  huts  of  the  natives,  their  banana 
groves  and  their  simple  crops  are  only  just  visible  on  closer 
inspection  of  the  landscape,  of  which  they  form  an  insignificant 
detail,  hardly  touching  its  virgin  and  2)rimitive  aspect. 

A  little  further  on  the  party  crossed  their  last  forest,  the 
finest  of  all  that  had  lain  across  their  path,  and  swarming  with 

94 


FOREST    BETWEEN    BX'TITI    AND   FDKT    PORTAL. 


TROPICAL   FOREST  NEAR  TORT  PORTAL 


From  Entebbe  to  Fort  Portal. 

monkeys.      After    ;i    loiin-   nuircli    of  sewn    hours   they   reached 
Fort   Portal   on    the   same   dav. 

On  approaching  Fort  Portal,  H.II.H.  was  received  by  the 
Kiiii;-  of  Toro,  Kasagama,  a  handsome  man,  above  the  average 
stature,  with  an  open  and  intelligent  countenance.  He  was 
accompanied  by  a  large  escort  carrying  numerous  gifts. 
After  crossing  the  belt  of  cultivated  fields  around  the  city, 
thev  entered  the  wide,  clean  street  of  Toro  blazinsr  with 
sun,  and  flanked  on  either  side  bv  the  chiefs  of  the  region 
who  liad  come  with  escorts  to  receive  the  expedition.  The 
street  was  crammed  \\'ith  people,  and  especially  \\ith  noisv 
children. 

Fort  Portal  was  fomided  in  1891  by  Capt.  Lugard  after  he 
had  deposed  Kabarega,  who  was  an  ally  of  Mwanga  in  liis 
revolt,  and  had  set  Kasagama  upon  the  throne  in  his  place, 
thus  ending  a  period  of  frightful  persecutions  and  raids  which 
liad  nearly  depopulated  the  country.  The  site  of  Fort 
Portal  is  verv  liealthv.  It  stands  at  a  heio-ht  of  5,000  feet 
above  the  sea,  in  a  basin  bounded  to  the  west  bv  the  rano-e 
of  Kuwenzori,  which  slopes  down  towards  Lake  Albert  in  a 
long  chain  of  gradually  lessening  spurs,  and  to  the  east  bv 
tlie  liills  wliich  divide  the  basin  of  Lake  Albert  Edward  from 
that  of  Lake  Albert,  ( )f  tlie  o-reat  range  onlv  the  hio-hest 
points  are  visible,  wlien  hv  exception  thev  are  not  covered  with 
clouds,  above  an  advanced  buttress  known  as  the  Portal  Peaks. 
To  the  north-west,  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  are  scattered 
volcanic  cones  among-  which  lie  numerous  small  crater  lakes. 

The  European  residents  of  Fort  Portal,  including  ladies, 
are  scarcely  fifteen  in  number.  Tliey  consist  of  the  Sub- 
Commissioner,  the  Collector,  the  Conunander  of  the  troops, 
and   the  Catholic  and  Protestant  Missionaries.     The  dwellings 

97  H 


Chapter  III. 

of  tlie  Enu,lisli  ()tiiei;ils,  including  tlie  residence  of  the 
Siib-Coniniissiont^r,  suiroinided  l)y  a  liedge  and  a  palisade, 
stand  upon  a  liill.  Upon  the  neighbouring  hills  are  the 
Missions  and  the  Hospital.  Upon  another  hill  to  tlie  south- 
east, covered  with  extensive  banana  plantations,  are  situated 
the    dwellincrs    of    the    Kino-    of    Toro.        On    the    low    iiiijiind 


THE   CARAVAN   ON    TIIK    :\[ARCn. 


between  the  hills  stand  tlie  sli()])s,  like  those  of  Kampala,  in 
long  lines  on  either  side  of  a  m  ide  avenue  planted  with  trees. 
There  are  also  barracks  for  native  troops,  and  the  usual  market. 
There  are  many  natives  here  of  the  Bahima  tribe.  These  are 
liandsome  people,  alleged  to  be  of  Ethiopian  origin,  tall  of 
stature,   slender    of   figure,    with    finely   proportioned    lind)s,    a 


From  Entebbe  to  Fort  Portal. 

somewhat  lighter  colour  tluiii  the  Bagaiida,  and  regular  features 
similar  to  those  of  tlie  white  races.  They  are  all  shepherds  ; 
they  Mear  a  cloak  of  skins,  and  speak  a  language  of  tliPirown. 
The  pure  type  is  growhig  rare  on  account  of  tlieir  niinghng 
with  tlie  Baganda  tribes. 

The  expedition  was  hospitably  entertained  in  Fort  Portal 
at  the  residence  of  Mr.  J.  (3.  Haldane,  the  (collector.  The 
porters  encamped  on  the  low  ground  at  tlie  foot  of  the  liill. 


CHAPTEK  IV. 
From  Fokt  Porta],  tu  Bujonuolo — Mobuku  Valley. 

Two  (lays  at  Fort  Portal — Meeting  with  Dr.  Wollaston — Hesitation  about  the 
Route — Departure  from  Fort  Portal — Duwona — Ford  of  the  Wimi  Iviver — 
Kasongo — The  Peaks  of  Kuwenzori  once  more  in  sight — P^ntrance  into  the 
Mobuku  Valley — ll)an(la  —  The  Duwoni  of  Johnston  —  Bihunga  —  Mahoma 
Valley  —  The  Moraine  of  Nakitawa  —  Discovery  of  the  Bujuku  Valley — 
Bakonjo  Porters — Crossing  the  Swamp — Kichurhu — The  Heath  Forest — The 
Flowery  Plain  of  Buamba — Bujongolo — An  Tcy  Night  on  the  Equator. 

The  expedition  spent  two  whole 
days  at  Fort  •  Portal  with  bad 
weather  and  clouded  sky.  In  spite 
of  these  inifavourable  conditions, 
the  Duke  was  al)le  to  complete  some 
astronomical  observations.  An  inter- 
mediate meteorological  station  was 
established  at  Fort  Portal.  The 
observations  taken  here  were  to  be 
compared  later  on  both  with  those 
subsequently  to  be  taken  at  Entebbe, 
on     Lake    Victoria,    and    aniono-    the 

mountains,  in  tlie  valleys  and  on  the  sunnnits,  in  order  to  supply 

full    (lata    i'oi'  ail    exact   calculation   of  altitudes. 

At   Fort  J\)rtal,  the   party  had  the  pleasure  of  making  tlie 

acquaintance  of    the    Jvev.    A.    B.    Fisher    and    of    Mrs.    Fisher, 

who    had    twice    ascended     the    Mobuku    Vallev   as    far    as    the 


100 


From   Fort  Portal  to   lUijoiigolo — Mobuku  Valley. 

i;lacier.  Another  interesting  and  pleasant  ac([iiaintance  was 
that  of  the  Alpine  climber,  Mr.  A.  F.  WoUastoii,  wlio  liad  left 
the  British  Museum  Expedition  for  a  few  davs  upon  the 
invitation  of  the  8ub-Connnissioner,  Mr.  Knowles,  and  had 
come  down  to  Fort  Portal  <»n   purpose  to  meet  the   Prince. 


ON    THE    rUHLIC    S(,>UAUE,    FORT   TORTAI.. 

As  was  mentioned  in  Chapter  I,  in  the  months  immediately 
preceding  the  arrival  of  the  Italian  Expedition,  WoUaston  had 
made  the  ascent  of  some  of  the  peaks  at  the  head  of  the 
Mobuku  Vallev,  from  the  top  of  which  he  had  made  out 
through  the  mist  two  other  snowy  summits  to  the  north-east, 
higher  tlian  those  which  he  had  ascended  and  seeming  to  rise 
above  the  western  slopes  of  the  chain  towards  the  Congo. 
He  had  not  been  able  to  make  out  whether  tliese  liigher 
mountains  Avere  connected  with  the  ])eaks  of  the  Mobuku 
A^alley. 

101 


Chapter  IV. 

Tlie  mouiitaiiis  seen  and  drawn  hy  Stuhlmann  at  tlie  head 
of  the  Butagu  Valley  to  the  west  of  the  chain  would  not,  in 
this  case,  have  heen  the  same  as  those  seen  from  the  east, 
which  the  Italian  expedition  had  observed  from  Kalho  and 
Biititi.  It  seemed,  therefore,  a  better  plan  to  attempt  tlie 
ascent  from  tlie  western  slope. 

These  accounts  perplexed  the  Duke  greatly.  If,  on  the  one 
hand,  lie  followed  the  route  of  his  predecessors  up  the  Mobuku 
Valley  there  was  the  risk,  on  reaching  the  peaks  at  the  head 
of  the  valley,  of  seeing  his  way  to  the  higher  summits  cut  off  by 
some  deep  valley  or  insuperable  ridge.  If,  on  the  other  hand, 
lie  should  resolve  to  try  the  western  slopes,  it  would  become 
necessary  to  make  a  long  detour  across  the  low  regions,  through 
malarial    districts,   in    order   to    turn    the    southern   end    of   the 


NA'ilNK    HIT. 


chain  and  reach  the  ScuiHki  Valley.  Here,  tliere  would  be 
uncertainty  as  to  tlu-  sutHciencv  of  local  resources  to  feed  so 
numerous   an    expedition,   ;iiid    still    greater    micertainty   as    to 


From  Fort  Portal  to   Uiijoiigolo — ^lobuku  Valley. 

the  disposition  of  the  natives,  who  were  known  to  he  frequently 
hostile  and  tnrl)nlent  in  tlie  Contro  District. 

Of  the  two  alternatives  the  latter  seemed  certainly  to  offer 
the    more    seri<»us    risks.      The    Dnke    of   the    Ahrnzzi    decided 


MARKET,    FORT   PORTAL. 


therefore  to  follow  the  more  direct  and  shorter  I'oute,  ascending 
the  Mobuku  Valley  and  arriving  comparatively  quickly  among 
tlie  liigh  mountains,  where  it  would  be  possible  to  obtain  data 
for  forniino-  a  decision  as  to  the  futm-e  route. 

The  two  days  at  Fort  Portal  had  been  days  of  complete 
idleness  for  the  native  porters,  and  liad  been  sufficient  to 
undermine  and  break  up  the  discipline  to  wdiicli  they  liad 
become  accustomed  during  their  tw^o  w^eeks  of  steady  work. 
When  the  drum  and  tlie  trunqjets  sounded  the  reveille  at 
4.30  a.m.,  June  1st,  not  one  of  the  whole  troop  was  ready. 
Boys  and  porters  dropped  in  late,  one  by  one,  and  it  took 
over  two  hours   to  get    the   caravan   into  marching  order.      At 

103 


Chapter  TV. 

last  it  started,  with  the  usual  shouts,  preceded  by  the  English 
and  Italian  flags. 

The  bacrofaofe  was  already  diminished  bv  the  rations 
consumed  during  the  preceding  fortnight.  It  was  now  further 
reduced  by  a  number  of  personal  etiects  wliicli  were  left  behind 
at  Fort  Portal.  Consequently,  a  portion  of  the  porters  had 
been  dismissed,  and  those  retained  were  selected  among  the 
stronsfest  and  healthiest. 

The  Prince  was  accompanied  on  his  start  from  Fort  Portal  by 
Mr.   Knowles,  the  Collector,  Mr.   Haldane  and  Mr.   Wollaston, 


HII.I.S    NKAi;    J'OIIT    I'dltTAL. 


who  was  on   his  way  to  r<'join  the  British  Museum  Expedition 
in  tlie  Nyamwamha  \  alley. 

An  escort  of  twenty  iiativt*  soldiers  accomjianied  the  caravan. 
Their  wives  had  c«»iiit'  to   hid  tlit'in   farewell.      The  form  of  their 


104 


From  Fort  Portal  to  Bujongolo — ]Mobuku  Valley, 
leave-takino-    was     as     .s<)l)er    and    dli'iiitied    as    ijossihk*  :     racli 

O  O  1 

woman  knelt  before   her  husband,   who  placed   one    liand   upon 
her  head. 

As  has  l)een  said,  Fort   Portal  is  situated   u})<)n    the   hei^-hts 
wliich   divide    tlie    l)asin    of   Lake    Albert    from    that    <tf   Lake 


FORT    PORTAL. 


Albert  Edward.  The  latter  is  connected  l)v  a  short.  narro\\- 
watercourse  with  Lake  Dueru  or  Ivuisaml)a,  Avhich  lies  in  tlie 
hollow^  called  "  Albertine  Valley,"  at  the  foot  of  the  eastern  slope 
of  liuwenzori,  and  receives  all  tlie  waters  which  flow  down 
from  the  chain  on  that  side.  To  reach  the  Mobuku  Valley 
the  path  skirts  the  upper  basin  of  Lake  Ruisamba  without 
descending  to  the  lake,  ruimino-  first  along  tlie  Iiills  wliich 
form  the  watershed,  and  then  following  the  eastern   foot  of  the 

10.5 


Chapter  I^^ 

cluiin  fioni  north  to  soiitl),  and  crossmo-  the  lower  course  of 
the  vrtllevs  and  torrents   which  run  down  from  the  ridges. 

The  countrv  is  lertile  and  well- watered,  hut  very  sparsely 
cultivated  exce])tinL;'  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Fort  Portal. 
Tlie  population  is  wretched  and  inihealthy  looking.  The  path, 
now  a  mere  track,  now  widenino-  out  into  a  road,  is  m  manv 
places  a  true  mountain  trail,  whicli  would  be  extremely 
fatiguing  and  even  diHicult  were  it  not  kept  up  with  great 
care.  Nati\-es  are  to  be  met  at  every  step,  especially  women 
and  old  men,  emploved  in  mending  and  weeding  it.  The 
women,  as  \isual.  carrv  their  babies  on  their  back  or  at  their 
breast  and  keep  their  larger  children  by  them.  Children 
and  adults  are  absolutely  naked,  or  else  wear  rags  or  skins 
around  tht-  loins.  Tlie  women  adorn  themselves  with  bracelets 
or,  lackino-  tliese.  tie  rino-s  of  twisted  banana  leaves  round  their 
arms  and  ankles. 

The  wav  between  Fort  Portal  and  the  Mobuku  Valley  was 
traversed  in  three  stages.  After  leaving  the  European  station 
the  patli  first  descends  over  the  wide  road  of  the  Mpango 
Vallev  and  crosses  the  river  on  a  wooden  bridge.  Next,  it 
ascends  to  the  Iloyal  Hill,  where  King  Kasagama,  surrounded 
1)V  liis  wliole  court,  waited  for  H.P.H.  Another  l)rief  halt  was 
made  at  Notre-Danie  de  la  Neige  to  take  leave  of  the  courteous 
Fatliers  of  the  French  Mission.  Tall  hedges  run  on  either  side 
of  the  path,  wliicli  winds  between  numerous  huts  scattered 
in  fields  of  pease,  millet,  sweet  ])otatoes  and  tobacco,  and 
e.xtensive  ])lantain  groves. 

The  wav  now  led  south-west,  makini:-  straiii'ht  for  the 
moimtains.  Low  hills  were  crossed  by  easy  slopes,  and  four 
hours  brought  the  expedition  to  Duwona  camp,  which  stands 
aerainst   the   f  )ot    of  the   mountain   amoniz'  i)lossomino'  euithorbia 

106 


From  Fort  l^)rtal  to   Bujongolo — Mobuku  X'alley. 

trees.  Below  lies  tlie  Albertiiie  Valley,  clotted  witli  small 
volcanic  cones.  Tlu'  peaks  above  were  slu'oiided  in  dark  mist. 
The  rest  of  tlit'  skv  Mas  clear,  and  tlu^  dav  ended  in  a  limpid 
sunset. 

On  the  foUowlni;-  morning,  the  way  struck  southward,  first 
skirtini:'  wide  low  ri(li>es  covered  with  elephant  orass  ;  and  then 


KING   KASAGAMA   AND   HIS    COURT. 


crossing-  by  steep  ascents  and  descents  the  foot  of  divers  spurs 
of  the  chain.  The  way  skirts  the  mountain  so  closely  that 
the  snowy  peaks  are  hidden  from  sight.  Numerous  torrents 
had  to  be  forded.  Only  one  of  these  was  of  a  certain  size, 
namely,  the  Wimi,  which,  when  swollen,  may  become  a  serious 
obstacle.       The    expedition    found    it    about    oO   feet   wide,    the 

107 


Chapter  IV. 

water  very  cold,  tVoiii  two  to  tlu'ee  feet  deep,  and  tlie  ciuiciit 
faiilv  swift.  A  line  of  men  was  formed  in  the  water,  stretcliinii- 
from  one  hank  to  the  other,  and  the  })orters  with  tht^ir  loads 
crossed  np-stream  of  them.      In  this  way  any  man   who  slipped 


NKAIt    I'OKT    I'UKTAL 


or  stafo'ered  was  iiiiiiie(hatelv  caiiiilit  and  held  ;  and  in  the 
space  of  ahout  one  hour  tiie  whole  caravan  was  gathered  on  the 
opposite^  l)aid<,  which  was  very  stee})  and  covered  with  thick 
"•rass.      Not   a   sini-le    |)arcel    had   heen   lost. 

1  OS 


From  Fort  Portal  to  Bujongolo — IMobuku   \^illey. 

The  camp  of  Kasoiicro  was  reached  before  noon.  This  camp 
stands  high  upon  one  of  the  spurs  of  tlie  rano^e.  Lake  liuisamha 
was  just  visible  througli  tlie  mists  Mliieh  hid  the  plain. 

Between  Kasongo  and  the  Mohuku  Valley  there  was  still 
one   last   valley  to   l)e   crossed,   known   as  tlie   Hima. 

Soon  after  leaving-  tlie  camp,  on  the  morning  of  the  .'h'd  of 
June,  a  portion  of  the  high  chain  appeared  in  sight  to  the  west- 
ward, framed  between  the  sides  of  tlie  vallevs.  First  appeared 
two  rocky  peaks'^  with  a  great  glacier  at  their  feet.  As  the 
expedition  proceeded  southward,  and  went  down  into  the  Vallev 
of  Hima,  these  peaks  were  gradually  hidden  ;  while  to  tlieir 
right,  that  is  northward  of  tliem,  came  into  sight,  Ijit  hv  hit, 
the  double  peakf  covered  with  snow,  which,  as  seen  from  Kaibo 
and  Butiti,  appeared  to  form  part  of  the  central  group,  and  to 
be  the  hio-hest  of  all. 

The  Hima  Biver  was  crossed  upon  a  light  bridge,  and  after 
tliis  the  patli  ran  up  the  valley  for  a  short  distance  westward, 
then  turned  southward  again  and  ascended  the  slope  of  the 
buttress,  behind  which  lay  the  Mobuku  Valley.  It  was  still 
early  in  the  morning  when  the  expedition  reached  the  top  of 
the  ridge,  and  commenced  to  descend  the  other  slope  into  the 
Mobuku  Valley. 

Meantime  the  peaks  of  Buwenzori  continued  to  come  out 
one  after  another  to  the  westward.  To  the  riglit  of  tlie  double 
snow  peak,  and  separated  from  it  bv  a  low,  wide  col,  apjieared 
another  group  of  peaks,;J:  wliicli  extended  northward  in  the 
shape  of  an  ice  ridge  edged  l)v  a  Viig  cornice,  under  wliicli 
stretched  a  glacier. 

*  Elena  and  Savoia  Peaks  of  the  map. 

t  Alexandra  and  Margherita  Peaks. 

I  Mt.  Speke  {see  illustrations,  pp.  IIO-IIG). 

109 


Chapter  IV. 

Tims,  as  the  caravan  liad  proceeded  from  north  to  soutli,  the 
peaks  of  the  chain  liad  })ecome  visihle  in  inverse  order  from 
soutli  to  nortli.  In  this  wav  two  rocky  peaks  had  come  into 
view,  connected  hy  a  wide  glacier  with  the  twin  peaks  covered 
with  snow.  These  four  too-ether  formed  what  from  Kaiho  and 
Butiti  appeared  as  the  central  group  of  the  chain.*  Next  had 
followed  a  wide  depression,  after  which  the  ridge  had  risen 
again    and    formed    two    great    peaks    of    rock    and    ice    whicli 


WOMEN    AT   CAMP    DLWOXA. 


stretched  northward  so  as  to  form  a  long  snowy  crest.  (  )nly 
this  last  group,  which  was,  without  douht,  the  Duwoni  of 
Sir  Harrv  Johnston,  Mas  visil)!*'  from  the  Mobuku  Valley. 


*  Mt.  Stanley. 
110 


From   Fort  Portal  to  Bujongolo — ^Mobuku   N'allev. 

The  path  now  went  down  to  the  Mol)ukii  Ivi\fi'.  wliich 
flows  m  a  bed  about  25  feet  deep  hollowed  out  thi(»iii;li  ancient 
alluvial    deposits.       This    torrent    is    some    (iU    feet    \v\(h-.    the 


ACACIAS   ox    THE    UOAD    UETWEEN    DUWOXA   AM»    KAS(i.\(;m. 


water  nearly  three  feet  deep,  and  the  current  violent.  Tlie 
water  is  cool,  but  of  a  yellowish  hue,  which  does  not  make  it 
attractive  to  drink. 

While  the  caravan  was  collecting  on  the  ])ank.  the  chiefs 
of  the  neio-hbourino;  villao-es  were  arrivino;  from  either  side 
of  the  valley,  with  their  attendants  bearing  stools  and  uml)rellas 
and  follow^ed  by  troops  of  natives.  They  all  took  part  in 
helping  the  caravan  to  cross  the  ford.  A  rope  was  stretched 
across    the    current,    and    numbers    of    natives    took    up    their 

111 


Chapter  IV. 

positions  below  the  rope  to  give  greater  security.  The  porters, 
witli  tlieir  loads,  straggled  across  \ip-streain  of  the  cord  and 
holding  by  it.  In  this  way  the  wliole  |)arty  was  soon 
reassembled  on  the  other  bank  of  the  Mol)ukn  witho\it 
accident  and  resumed  their  way,  now  ascending  the  wide  level 
valley  bottom  as  far  as  the  camp  of  Ibanda. 

Ibanda  (4,540  feet)  stands  upon  tlie  right  bank  of  the 
Mobuku  River  at  a  point  where  the  valley  widens  into  a  plain 
more  than  one  mile  wide,  shut    in   hv  rounded   liills  and  covered 


BETWEEN    ])I'W<)XA   AND    KASOXGO. 


with  deep  grasses  and  a  few  scattered  trees.  A  small  tributary 
valley  opens  near  tlic  camp.  Further  uj),  tlie  valley  appears 
to    be    com})letelv    shut     in   by    a     bigb   and   steep    peak  which 

112 


From   Fort  Portal  to  Bujongolo — ]\Iobuku   Vallev. 

lonns  one  of  the  Portals.  Bevoiid  this,  airaoi,  rises  tin- 
snowy  mountain  which  lias  been  already  described,  and  which 
Sir  Harry  Johnston  liad  named  Duwoni. 

The  general  trend  of  the  valley  is  from  east  to  west.  Marks 
of  glacial  action  are  evident.  A  little  above  Ibanda,  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  valley,  lies  a  stretch  of  marginal  moraine 
about  thirty  yards  deep.  A  number  of  spurs  seem  to  be  tlie 
remains  of  frontal  moraines  cut  off  by  the  torrent.  There  are 
numerous  boulders  and  round  smooth  rocks  of  the  tvpe 
known  as  mouton.nees.  Finally,  looking  down  tlie  valley,  a 
transversal  ridge  has  every  appearance  of  a  terminal  moraine. 

Round  about  the  camp  are  numerous  villages  and  plantain 
pToves.  The  natives  are  naked,  with  strino-s  of  sliells  round 
their  loins  from  which  bits  of  cloth  are  suspended. 

At  Ibanda  there  is  not  the  usual  shed  for  eating  under  cover. 
Fortunately  the  weather  was  fine,  and  a  few  trees  near  to  the 
torrent  offered  shade  for  the  midday  meal.  Not  a  single  fisli 
was  to  be  found,  in  spite  of  long  and  attentive  inspection  of 
the  water. 

The  evening  was  perfectly  clear  and  the  light  died  away 
slowly.  The  familiar  sound  of  the  torrent  called  to  memory 
quiet  evenings  passed  in  some  remote  valley  of  our  own 
Alps.  Below  the  camp  blazed  numerous  fires  which  now  and 
again  seemed  extinguished  and  rekindled  as  the  dark  shapes  of 
the  natives  flitted  busily  to  and  fro  in  front  of  them.  The 
mountain  walls  of  the  valley  stood  out  clear  on  the  starry  sky. 
The  snows  of  Duwoni  glittered  softly  in  the  bright  starlight. 

The  prospect  seemed  very  hopeful.  The  Italian  expedition 
were  more  fortunate  than  their  predecessors  in  the  circumstance 
that,  before  even  reaching  the  feet  of  the  mountains,  they  liad 
sight  of  many  peaks,  and  were  able  to  ascertain  the  important 

113  1 


Chapter  IV. 

fact  that  the  douhle  peak  seen  from  Kaibo  and  Butiti  as  in 
the  centre  of  tlie  chain  and  a])})eaiing-  to  be  the  highest  of  all, 
is  not   the  Dnwoni   of  Johnston. 


FORD   OF   AVI.^n    Itn'Elt. 


Leavinu-  tlie  camp  of  Iljaiida  tbe  march  followed  rapidly 
across  tlie  liiL;li  plain,  wliicli  was  swampy  here  and  there,  with 
u-roves  of  tall  acacia  and  draca^iia  and  dotted  with  romid  smooth 
l)Oulders.  Soon  they  reached  tin-  foot  of  another  buttress,  a  spur 
of  tlu^  rii;-lit-haiid  slope  of  tlie  valley.  Here  the  path  became  so 
steep  at  some  points  tliat  even  those  who  had  no  load  to  carry 
got  out  of  breatli.  Tlie  natives,  who  during  tbe  first  ])art  of 
the  stage  kept  up  tbeir  usual  clieerful  hubbub,  now  became 
silent  as  they  panted  up  the  wearisome  ascent,  and  scattered 
far  and   wide,  covering  a  long  reach  of  the  M'ay. 

lU 


From  Fort  Portal  to   Bujongolo — Mobuku  Valley. 

As  the  valley  rises  It  puts  on  little  V)y  little  a  grim  and 
mysterious  aspect.  The  forbidding  precipices  of  the  Portal 
peaks  seem  absolutely  to  close  its  deep  western  recesses. 

About  half-way  up  tlie  spur  is  a  narrow  grassy  ledge,  where 
are  perched  a  few  native  huts.  These  are  the  last  human 
habitations  of  this  valley.  Beyond  everything  is  desert,  'i'he 
place  is  called  Bihunga,  1,760  feet  above  Ihanda,  and  0,300  feet 
above  the  sea.      Here  the  British  Museum  Expedition  liad  spent 


Alexandra  aiul  .Mariflierita  Peaks. 


Mt.  Speke. 

I 


THE   SNOW   TEAKS   Of   RUWENZORI,    SEEN    FROM   THE    HIMA    VALLEY. 


several  months  in  collectincr  material  for  research.      A  s])acious 
hut  still  stood  as  a  record  of  its  sojourn. 

The    tents    were    pitched    around   this  hut    with    (HtHculty, 


115 


Chapter  IV. 

owing  to  the  small  space  t)t'  level  ground  availal)le.      The  porters 
encamped  as  best  they  could  on  tlie  steep  slope. 

The  view  of  the  mountains  was  entirely  cut  off  by  the  spur 
upon  which  the  camp  stood.      On  the  other  side  they  overlooked 


MT.    SPEKE   (the    DIWONI    OF   JOHXSTOX)   SEEN   FROM    THE   T.OWER 
ISIORrKU    VATJ.EY. 

the  plain  of*  Ibanda,  and  down   the  wide   valley  till  the   point 

where  everything   disappeared  in  the  misty  atmosphere.      The 

near    hill    sides   were    clad    with     dense    forest    diversified    by 

small  clearings   covered  ^\•ith   deep  grass.      There  was  scarcely 

any  sio"n  of  animal  life.     Near  the  camp  they  saw  lobelias  for  the 

first  time.      There  were  many  dracsenas,  and  a   most   l)eautiful 

erithr3''na  covered  with  flame-coloured  blossoms.      A  narrow  strip 

of  small   cultivated   fields  surrounds  the  tiny  village,  wliich   is 

inhabited  by  a  few  Bakonjos.  naked  in  spite  of  tlie  cold  of  tliis 

liiifli  region. 

116 


From  Fort  Portal  to  Bujongolo — Mobukii   \'allev. 

At  Bihunga  the  Duke  l)ei;-aii  to  reduce  the  number  of 
his  caravan.  Henceforward  the  way  was  to  lead  througli 
uninhabited  regions  where  the  commissariat  would  offer 
increasing  difficulties.  An  agreement  was  entered  into  with 
tlie  chiefs  of  the  villages  around  Ibanda  bv  which  thev  were 
to  send  parties  of  porters  regularly  up  the  valley  with  provisions. 
In  addition  to  the  limited  nature  of  the  resources  of  so 
small  a  district,  the  actual  distance  to  cross  and  the  difficultv 
of  the  marches  would  increase  as  the  expedition  proceeded 
upwards. 


FORD    OF   MOBUKU    RIVEIt. 


Tliey  left    beliind    at    Bihunga    a    portion    ot    tlie   baggage, 
consisting    of   some    fortv    loads,    including    all    those    personal 


117 


Chapter  lY. 

effects  which  hecanie  unnecessary  in  the  cold  chmate  of  the 
liigh  mountains,  and  a  niunher  of  the  boys  were  also  dispensed 
with.  Tliese,  as  well  as  the  superfluous  porters,  went  back  to 
Butanuka,  a  village  half-way  between  the  Mobuku  Valley  and 


FOTU)    (IF    MolUKT    lUN  Kit. 


Fort  l^>rtal,  wliieli  now  became  the  halting-place  for  all  the 
Basfanda  who  wcn^  sent  back  from  the  mountains.  Last,  but 
not  least,  the  twenty  native  soldiers  of  the  escort,  commanded 
by  Sergeant  Green,  remained  at  Bihimga,  where  they  formed  a 
link  l)etween  tlie  expedition  and  the  lower  valley.  The  jxtition 
of  the  supplies  and  equipment  whicli  was  left  beliind  was 
sheltered   in    the   Imt    of  tlic   P)ritisli   Museum   Expedition. 

On  tilt'  ni(»niing  of  the  .'")tli  of  Jmie,  tlie  caravan  again 
set  out  upon  its  way.  An  extremely  narrow  and  very  steep 
])ath    tlu'ough    thick    brushwootl    and    tliornv    branches,    wliich 

118 


From  Fort  Portal  to  Bujongolo  —  ]\Iobuka  Valley. 

scratched  the  face  aiul  liaiids  of  the  travellers,  led  up  the 
spur  of  Bihunga,  and  then  crossed  the  tuiy  Chawa  Valley 
and  redescended  into  the  Valley  of  Mahoma,  an  important 
tributary  on  the  right  hand  of  the  Mobuku. 

The  descent  was  steep,  through  a  dense  forest  of  tall  trees 
which  climbed  high  up  on  the  precipitous  sides  of  the  valley. 
Numerous  specimens  of  a  line  conifer,  the  podocarpus,  were 
overgrown  with  a  tangle  of  creeping  plants  diversified  witli 
brilliant  orchids.  Under  the  trees  was  a  dense  leafy  under- 
growth mingled  with  ferns  of  numerous  species,  forming  so 
impenetrable  a  brushwood  that  the  path  became  a  veritable 
tunnel,  where  one  had  to  walk  bent  double  for  long  tracts. 
The  bushes  and  creeping  plants  covered  many  fallen  tree-trunks, 
from  the  rich  soil  under  which  numerous  specimens  were  added 
to  the  zoological  collections.  The  ground  was  very  damp,  in 
many  places  soaking,  and  extremely  slippery,  and  the  porters 
had  difficulty  in  keeping  their  feet.  The  way  ran  through  the 
forest  as  far  as  the  banks  of  the  Mahoma. 

Once  the  torrent  crossed,  the  path  wound  among  ferns  and 
tree-ferns  of  several  varieties  up  a  slope  so  steep  as  to  be 
extremely  laborious  for  the  porters,  who  marched  disbanded 
and  very  slowly.  At  a  certain  pomt  of  altitude  the  first 
bamboos  and  heaths  appeared  among  the  ferns.  The  ground 
was  slippery  and  muddy,  and  scattered  with  r(.)cks  of  every 
dimension. 

This  slope  is  merely  a  great  lateral  moraine  of  tlie  glacier 
which  once  flowed  down  tlie  valley  and  probahly  covered  the 
whole  plain  of  Ibanda.  It  is  unaccountable  that  the  real 
nature  of  this  ridge  should  have  escaped  the  notice  of  so 
many  previous  explorers  of  the  Mobuku  Valley.  A  corre- 
sponding   and    parallel    moraine    runs    along    the    opposite    or 

119 


Chapter  IV. 

left-hand  side  of  th(^  valley.  The  Mol)uku  torrent  roars  more 
than  GOO  feet  helow  lii  the  deep  and  precipitous  gorge  where 
it  has  cut  a  channel  throutrh  the  detritus,  while  the  blocks 
and  pebbles  of  the  moraine  formation  arc  (piitt*  plainly  visible 
in  section  on  the  deeply  cut  sides. 

The  trees  now  grew  denser  and  denser  until,  on  the  top  of 
the  moraine,  the  path  once  more  entered  the  forest.  For 
some  distance  the  wav  followt'd  the  crest  of  the  moraine,  in 
many  places  less  than  a  vard  wide,  until  it  reached  a  gigantic 
boulder  of  mieiss  about  oO  feet  Ion";,  and  from  18  to  20  feet 
high,  near  which  stood  a  little  straw-roofed  shed  quite  crooked 
and   propped   up   bv   a    few   piles  driven    into    the  earth.       This 


nUNDA. 


is  the  cam])  of  Xakil.iw.i.  (  )ii  everv  side  stretched  the 
forest  of  tall  trees  with  the  dense  brushwood  beneath. 
Hours    of    hard     work     were     re(|uired    to     cut     down     enouirh 


120 


From  Fort  Portal  to   Bujongolo — jNIobukii   Valley. 

brushwood  and  trees  to  make  room  for  the  seven  tents.  At 
the  foot  of  the  boulder  tlie  natives  crowded  around  tlie  kitclieii 
place.       This    camp    is    8,700    feet     above    tlie     sea-level.       In 


THE    PORTAL   PEAKS   ON    THE   WAY   UP   TO    BmUNGA. 

spite  of  occasional  descents  a  rise  of  2,400  feet  had  been 
accomplished  in  one  march.  Dindng  the  whole  afternoon  the 
porters  kept  dropping  in,  one  by  one,  tired  out  witli  the  hard 
day's  journey.  The  Baganda  are  a  people  of  the  plains,  and 
evidently  incapable  of  enduring  the  fatigue  of  mountain 
inarches.  It  had  now  become  obviously  necessary  to  replace  them 
by  Bakonjo,  who  are  acclimatized  to  this  valley  and  accustomed 
to  climb  its  slopes  in  tlie  chase  after  marmots  and  hyrax. 

Every  slope  in  sight  was  covered  by  the  forest.  It  was  a 
scene  of  virgin  and  untouched  Nature.  The  regions  inhabited 
by  man  had  been   indeed  left  behind. 


121 


Chapter  lY. 

Near  Nakitawa,  at  the  entrance  of  the  Mahoma  Valley,  the 
ancient  moraines  of  the  t^^'o  valleys  meet  and  imite  together. 
In  the  corner  formed  hv  the  meeting  of  the  left  moraine  of 
Mahoma  with  the  rigid  moraine  of  Mol)uku  lies  a  little  lake,, 
which  was  visited  snl)se(j[nentlv  hv  tlie  expedition  on  their 
retnrn  jom^ney. 

Tlie  peaks  of  the  Portal  gron])  soar  np  over  the  left  side  of 
the  valley  exactlv  opposite  this  camp.  Tlie  two  southernmost 
of  these  peaks  stand  like  giant  sentries  on  either  side  of  the 
entrance  of  another  great  valley  whicli  liere  opens  into  the 
Mohnkn. 


liril.lMN(;    SllKDS,    lliANDA. 


The  discovery  of  tliis  iiiij)ortant  trihutary  valley,  over- 
looked by  all  the  previous  explorers,  permitted  the  Duke  to 
arrive  from  the  first  at  certain  vital  conclusions  regarding  the 
position  of  th<^   j)eaks. 

122 


From  Fort  Portal  to  Bujoiigolo — Molniku  Valley. 

It  was,  as  a  matter  of  fact,  through  the  opeiiiiii;-  of  this 
new  valley  and  above  its  Iiead  that  the  expedition  liad  seen 
the  Diiwoni  of  Johnston  from  Ihanda.  In  conseqnence  it 
became    evident    tliat    tliis    mountain    does    not    stand    at    tlie 


HILLSIDE,    BELOW    BIHUNGA. 

head  of  the  Mobuku  Valley.  Furthermore,  comparing  the 
aspect  of  the  chain  as  seen  from  Kail)o  and  Butiti  with  the 
successive  sight  of  the  single  peaks,  as  descried  in  crossing  the 
Hima  Valley  between  Kasongo  and  Ibanda,  and  su])se(piently 
in  descendino-  into  the  Mobuku  Vallev,  it  had  become  (piite 
plain  that  tlie  peaks  and  glaciers  of  tlie  highest  central  group 

123 


Chapter  IV. 

were  to  the  south  of  Duwoui.  Consequently  the  whole  of  this 
group  must  stand  between  Duwoui  and  the  Mobuku  Valley. 

Hence  it  seemed  obvious  that  the  newly  discovered  valley 
must  lead  into  the  very  heart  of  the  chain  and  penetrate 
amongst  its  highest  peaks  far  more  directly  than  the  Mobuku 
Valley. 

Owing,  however,  to  the  absence  of  all  accounts  of  this 
vallev  and  the  uncertainty  as  to  whether  it  was  accessible 
up  to  the  foot  of  tlie  mountains,  H.R.H.  decided  to  continue 
on  the  road  followed  by  preceding  explorers,  so  as  to  lose  no 
tiuu'  in  reaching  some  high  point  whence  he  might  be  able  to 
judge  of  the  relative  positions  of  the  peaks  and  valleys. 

Tlie  Duke  of  the  Abruzzi  preserved  the  name  of  Bujuku 
for  the  newly  discovered  valley,  this  being  the  name  by  which 
it  was  known  to  the  inhabitants  of  Ibanda, 

For  five  successive  days  the  weather  liad  l)een  unusually  fine 
for  tliese  regions,  nor  were  they  again  to  enjoy  so  long  a 
period  of  uninterrupted  clear  sky  during  the  whole  campaign, 
except  quite  at  the  last  when  they  were  on  the  point  of  leaving 
th('  mountains.  ( )n  tlie  morning  of  the  6tli  of  June,  witli  the 
dawn,  a  fine  rain  was  falling  from  the  grey  cloudy  sky. 

Provisions  were  expected  by  porters,  who  only  arrived  at  about 
seven  o'clock  and  consisted  of  eiglity  Bakonjos.  These  are  tall 
men  of  robust  habit,  with  somewhat  prominent  jaw,  their  hair  is 
eitlier  sliaxcn  or  disposed  in  strange  fashion,  and  they  frequently 
wear  a  small  bt^aid.  'rii<'ir  skin  is  tainied  by  the  sun,  the  rain, 
and  the  cold,  and  is  hard  and  rough  as  leather.  They  wear  a 
piece  of  cloth  lianging  from  the  loins,  bracelets  of  metal  or  cord 
round  their  arms  and  legs,  and  a  fur  pouch  suspended  from  the 
neck  for  pi})e  and  tobacco.  Some  wear  a  leopard  skin  over 
their  shouldeis.  oi-  a  cloak  made  of  rabbit  ])elts  (hyrax)  stitched 

124 


From  Fort  Portal  to   Biijongolo — ]\Iobuku  Vallev. 

together.  There  are  no  converts  among  them.  Thev  carry 
long-  staves  on  their  march  and  use  them  with  o-reat  skill  in 
the  difficult  places.  These  eighty  men  were  now  kept  to 
replace  half  of  tlie  Baganda  porters  who  were  at  once  sent 
down.  Everything  was  set  in  order.  The  men  were  refreshed 
with  food,  and  at  last  the  expedition  started  at  about  eio-ht 
o'clock. 

After    Nclkitawa    the    path,    now   reduced  to  a    mere   trail, 
descends    from    tlie    hrow    of    tlie    moraine,    skirting    its    slope 


BIHUNGA. 


through  bamboos  and  creeping  plants,  to  the  bottom  of  the 
valley  which  here  opens  out  into  a  plain.  The  way  now  leads 
across  this  terrace  to  the  Mobuku  torrent,  here  so  small   that 


125 


Chapter  IV. 

it  can  be  crossed  dry-slioLl,  leapiiio-  from  stone  to  stone.  A 
tree  trunk  tluown  across  the  stream  made  the  passage  easier 
for  tlie  porters. 

The  enormous  difference  in  the  vohiiuf  of  the  Mobuku  River 
at    Ihanda   and   above  Nakitawa   must   be  speciallv  due  to    tlie 


FoiiKST  Ar.it\K  ]!nirN(;A. 


influx  of  the  Bujuku  Iviver  below  the  latter  point,  and  points 
to  the  conclusion  that  the  supposed  tributary  is  really  the  more 
important  of  the  two  rivers. 

The  flat  valley  bottom  is  a  lake  of  mud  upon  which  throws 
a  forest,  nearly  entirely  composed  of  bamboos.  The  path 
is  all  water  and  nuid.  You  sink  in  to  the  knee.  Under  the 
mud  the  foot  meets  with  stones  (n-  pieces  of  wood,  or  is  caught 
in  a  creeper  or  a  fallen  trunk,  making  it  necessary  to  grasp  the 

126 


From  Fort  Portal  to  Bujongolo — ]\lobiiku  Valley. 

siiri'oiiiuliiig-  hushes,  frequently  thorny,  so  as  nut  to  lose 
balance.  Little  l)y  little  you  learn  to  take  precautions  in 
walking,  to  recognize  the  points  likely  to  atibrd  solid 
footliold  ;  to  proceed  now  Ijy  jumps  and  again  Ijy  placing 
one  foot  to  the  right  and  the  other  to  the  left  of  the  path, 
perching  upon  stones  or  upon  roots  whicli  rise  ahove  the 
mud    or    upon  fallen  brandies  of  trees,  or  again  hv  preserving 


FOREST   AT   THE   ^lOUTH   OF   THE   MAHOMA. 


your  equilibrium  along  a  fallen  tree-trunk.  But,  even  so, 
you  frequently  become  entangled  or  get  stuck,  and  seek 
solace  in  expletives  which  are  more  energetic  and  expressive 
Meantime,     rain    began    to    fall    lieavilv,    and 


than    elegant. 


127 


Chapter  IV. 

from  the  l)aniboos,  from  the  heaths,  from  tlic  tall  ferns, 
aiul  from  all  the  leafaiije  of  the  forest,  a  chilly  drij)  fell 
ceaselessly  upon   tlie  travellers. 

Bedaiihed    with     mud     from     head     to     foot,    their     clothes 


TREE  -  FERNS. 


soaked  in  watei-,  after  crossing  the  valley  as  far  as  its  left 
slope,  the  expedition  reached  the  foot  of  a  liigh  overhanging 
cliff  at  the  bottom  of  a  short  valley  shut  in  by  a  moraine. 
This  was  the  so-called  Kicliuchu  (  'amp.  at  a  heiglit  of 
9,833  feet  above  the  sea-level,  and  l,l:')3  feet  above  Nakitawa. 
The  rocky  wall  forms  a  slielter  over  a  narrow  strip,  where 
you  are  indeed  protected  from  the  ])ouring  rain,  but  where 
the  soil  is  soaked  witli  the  water  whicli  di'ips  oil*  the  rock 
upon    it.      Here    there  was   room    for  a    single   tent   only.      All 

128 


77/>^  MOBUKU  RIVER  IN   THE   HEATH  FOREST 


From  Fort  Portal  to  Bujongolo— Mobuku  Valley. 

around  was  deep  mud.  Branches  and  tree  trunks  spread 
upon  the  ground  formed  a  platform  large  enough  to  admit 
of  two  more  tents.  It  took  many  hours'  hard  labour  in 
the  mud  and  under  the  rain  before  the  camp  could  he  (rot 
ready. 

Such  firewood  as  could  be  collected  in  the  innnediate 
neighbourhood  was  scarce,  and  the  fires  insufl&cient.  The 
remaining  Baganda  porters,  tired,  discouraged,  and  shiverinfr 
with  cold  were  evidently  incapable  of  proceeding  any  further. 
They  were  therefore  all  sent  back  with  the  boys  to 
Butanuka,  thence  to  join  their  comrades  who  had  been 
dismissed  from  Bihunga  and  Nakitawa.  Henceforward  the 
expedition  proceeded  with  tlie  Bakonjo  only,  leaving  a  numl)er 
of  loads  behind  to  be  sent  for  later  as  required. 

The  Kichuchu  shelter  stands  upon  a  plateau  which  forms 
the  first  of  a  series  of  three  terraces,  all  soaked  with  stagnant 
water  and  divided  one  from  another  by  cliffs  some  600  feet 
to  1,000  feet  high.  These  three  terraces  form  the  upper 
Mobuku  Vallev.  Above  Kichuchu  the  wav  suddenlv  o-rows 
steep,  and  mounts  by  a  narrow  natural  ledge  in  the  rock  of 
a  spur  about  900  feet  high,  belonging  to  the  southernmost 
peak  of  the  Portal  group. 

At  the  narrowest  and  most  difticult  points  of  this  rockv 
ledge  the  climb  is  facilitated  by  wooden  steps.  The  path  is 
so  steep  that  you  have  to  climb  with  hands  and  feet,  clutching 
the  few  creeping  plants  and  shrubs  wliich  grow  within  reach. 
The  last  bit  is  less  steep,  but  is  again  a  mass  of  mud,  stones 
and  roots. 

The  summit  is  at  last  reached.  This  is  the  brow  of  the 
second  plateau  of  the  valley,  and  here  one  of  the  most  singular 
sights  seen  in  all  the  journey  awaited  the  expedition. 

129  K 


Chapter  IV. 

The  plateau  is  completely  covered  hy  a  great  forest  of  tree 
heaths.  In  this  forest  trunks  and  houghs  are  entirely  smothered 
in  a  tliick  layer  of  mosses  which  hani>-  like  wavino;  beards  from 
every  spray,   cushion   and   englobe  every   knot,    curl  and  swell 


Kiciirciir. 

around  each  twig,  deform  every  outline  and  obliterate  every 
feature,  till  the  trees  are  a  mere  mass  of  grotesque  contortions, 
monstrous  tumefactions  of  tlie  discoloured,  leprous  growth. 
No  leaf  is  to  be  seen  save  on  the  very  top-most  twigs,, 
vet  the  forest  is  dark  owing  to  the  dense  network  of  trunks 
and  l)ranches.  'I'lic  soil  disappears  altogether  under  innumer- 
al)le  dead  trunks,  heaped  one  u])oii  another  in  intricate  piles, 
covered  with  mosses,  viscous  and  slippery  where  exposed  to 
tlie  air  ;  l)lack,  naked,  and  yet  neither  mildewed  nor  rotten 
where  they  have  lain  foi-  years  and  years  in  deep  holes.  No 
forest  can  be  grimmer  and  stranger  than   this.      The  vegetation 

130 


From   Fort  Portal  to  Biijongolo — Mobukii   \^alley. 

seems  primeval,  of  some  period  when  forms  were  uncertain  and 
provisory.  The  silence  is  profound,  and  the  absence  of  any 
sign  of  life  completes  the  image  of  a  remote  age  before  the 
beginning  of  animal  existence,  such  as  might  have  been  tliose 
forests  which  have  given  us  the  strata  of  coal  fossils. 

Faint   and   indistinct    tracks    on    the    moss    and    the    fallen 
trunks  indicate  the  way.      The  travellers  proceed,  leapincr  and 


LOBELIAS    IN    TP{E    HEATH    FOREST. 

balancing  themselves  upon  the  slippery  trunks,  in  continual 
danger  of  putting  their  foot  in  a  deep  hole  and  falling  in  the 
openings  between  the  trunks,  whence  they  would  be  likely  to 
emerge    with    broken    bones   or   other   injiiiies.       The    Bakonjos 

131  K  2 


Chapter  W. 

j^nve  proof  of  marvellous  ao'ilitv.  Tliey  juiii])  from  trunk  to 
trunk  :  tlicv  crouch  or  crawl  to  sli])  their  loads  under  the  lower 
hranches  ;  thev  perform  miracles  of  equilihrium  upon  sloping- 
trunks,  walking  all  the  time  so  fast  that  it  is  difficult  to 
keep  up  with  them. 

Tlie  patli  now  returns  to  the  Mobuku,  which  here  is  a  mere 
Alpine  stream  buried  in  the  fantastic  vegetation  on  its  banks, 
and  roofed  over  with  the  strange  branches  mingling  and  crossing 
above  it.  The  yellow-l)rown  waters  are  without  fish  or  any 
■other  form  of  animal  life.  The  expedition  crossed  this  stream 
to  its  right  bank,  and  reached  the  foot  of  another  ledge,  about 
(500  feet  high,  formed  by  an  ancient  moraine,  and  likewise 
covered  with  heath  forest  and  underwood  of  tall  ferns,  creeping 
plants,  orchids  and  thorny  brambles  laden  with  blossoms 
and  with  lun^pe  blackberries.  In  their  shade  gTow  violets, 
ranunculus,  geraniums,  epilobium,  umbelliferous  species  and 
thistles.  The  ledge  leads  to  the  third  terrace,  where  there 
is  another  rock  shelter  called  Buamba,  11,542  feet  above 
the  sea. 

Once  upon  the  brow  of  this  ledge  and  out  of  the  oppressive 
lifelessness  of  the  heath  forest,  the  expedition  found  itself 
suddenly  and  without  transition  in  the  presence  of  a  picture 
totally  different,  though  no  less  strange.  The  long  level  valley 
bottom,  walled  in  by  towering  cliffs  on  either  side,  stretched  up 
to  the  foot  of  another  step,  beyond  which  the  valley  narrowed 
into  a  gorge  where  stands  the  shelter  of  Bujongolo.  The  peak 
of  Kiyanja  *  with  its  glaciers  rose  far  off  and  high  above  the 
head  of  the  valley. 

Tlie  whole  valley  on  every  side  as  far  as  y(»u  could  see  was 
one  mass  of  luxuriant   vegetation   of  iiidescril)al)le   strangeness. 

*  Edward  Peak  of  Mt.  Baker. 

i;5-j 


# 


o 


From   F(^rt  Portal  to  Bujongolo — ^lobuku  Valley. 

The  groimd  was  carjx'ted  with  a  deep  lav(^r  of  lvc<)})()diiiiu 
and  sprhi^'v  moss,  and  tliicklv  dotted  with  hii;'  ehinips  of  the 
papery  Howers,  pink,  yellow,  and  silver  white  of  the  hdichiysuni 
or  everlastmg,  above  which  rose  the  tall  cohnnnar  stalks  of  the 
lobelia,  like  funereal  torches,  beside  huge  branching  groups  of 
the    monster    senecio.       The    impression    produced    was  l)eyon(l 


THE   IlEATII    FOREST. 


words  to  describe  ;  tlie  spectacle  \vas  too  weird,  too  improbable, 
too  unlike  all  familiar  iiuages,  and  upon  the  whole  brooded  the 
same  grave  deathly  silence. 

Here  and  there,  where  tlie  face  of  the  cliff  was  so  steep  and 
smooth  that  no  other  plant  could  take  root,  were  great  golden 

133 


Chapter  IV. 

patches  of*  moss.  Tu  the  bottom  of  the  valley  the  soft,  thick, 
mossy  carpet  was  strewn  with  violets  and  forget-me-nots,  which 
startle  the  European  traveller  by  the  unexpected  familiarity  of 
their  appearance. 

The  dav  was  fine,  and  tlie  Duke  of  the  Abruzzi  was  far 
too  impatient  to  consent  to  stop  at  Buamba,  close  to  the  end 
of  the  valley,  nearly  in  sight  of  Bujongolo.  They  snatched  a 
morsel  in  haste,  and  started  once  more  across  the  flowery 
plateau  in  full  sight  of  a  graceful  waterfall,  framed  in  foliage 
and  flowers,  falling  from  a  steej)  point  on  the  right  side  of  the 
valley. 

The  wav  })roceeded  for  a  certain  distance  upon  the  left  side 
of  the  Mobuku,  and  then  crossed  again  to  the  right  at  the  foot 
of  the  last  rise.  Tlie  valley  is  full  of  traces  of  the  former 
passage  of  glaciers,  the  rocks  are  worn  smooth  and  streaked  ; 
there  are  moraine  piles,  boulders,  etc.,  etc. 

One  last  climl)  u|)  a  steep  slope  some  GOO  feet  high,  over 
mud  and  stone,  brings  the  expedition  to  the  right  side  of  the 
valley,  where  a  heap  of  Ijlocks,  surrounded  by  tree  heaths, 
are  overhung  by  a  high  rock  which  forms  a  shelter.     This  is 

Bujongolo,  a  veritable  eyrie,  at    a   height   of   12,461    feet,    and 

2,528  feet  aljove   Kieliucbu. 

The  Prince  and  bis  C()nij)ani()ns  reached  this  point  alxnit  two 

in    tlie   afternoon,   leaving  tbe    caravan   of  porters   far    behind. 

Most  of  the  latter  had  stopped  at  the  Buamba  shelter,  and  only 

a  few  with    a  small  number  of  parcels   rejoined  the  expedition 

that   evening. 

The   place   was   rough   and   wild.      A   cold   and   biting  wind 

blew  off  the  glacier,  and  suggested  surroundings  very  different 

from  those  usually  associated  with  Equatorial  Africa. 

Tbe  members  of  tlie  expedition  were  full  of  excitement   and 

1:54 


"WATERFALL   AT   BUAMBA. 


From  Fort  Portal  to  Bnjoiigolo— Mobuku  Valley. 

satisfaction  at  having  at  last  reached  the  foot  of  the  moiuitains- 
which  they  were  to  explore.  The  journey  from  Italy  to  this 
point  had  occupied   54  days. 

The  first  night  was  spent  in  the  open.  The  tents  had 
not  arrived,  and  many  were  without  even  a  sleeping  bag. 
A  few  sheep  had  come  so  far  with  the  porters,  and  frightened 
by  the  strange  place  huddled  around  them.  The  shapes  of 
the  naked  blacks  crouching  around  a  great  fire  showed  dimly 
in  the  night. 

Cagni,  barely  convalescent,  had  left  Entebbe  two  days 
before  and  was  hastening,  by  forced  marches,  to  join  the 
expedition  and  take  part  in  their  work. 


137 


CHAPTER  Y. 
Peaks  at  the  Head  of  Mobuku  Valley. 

Organization  of  the  Base  Camp  at  Bujongolo — Upper  Mobuku  Valley — 
H.K.H.  starts  on  the  first  exploring  party — The  Mobuku  Glacier — Camp  on 
the  edge  of  the  Glacier — Terminal  llidge  and  Grauer  Rock — First  comprehensive 
view  of  the  liuwcnzori  Chain — First  Ascent  of  the  Kiyanja  Peaks^ — Vittorio 
Sella  at  Camp  I — Photographic  work  at  C4rauer  Rock — Fog,  Snow  and 
Storms — Sella  ascends  a  third  peak  of  the  group — Difficult  descent  to 
Bujongolo — Four  days  of  liad  weather — Camp  Life — A  leopard  visits  the 
camp — The  journey  of  Connnandcr  Cagiii  from  Entebbe  to  Bujongolo. 

On  the  mornlno-  of  the  8th  June  the 
Bakonjo  porters  who  had  stopped  the 
(lay  hefore  at  Buamba  arrived  at 
Bujongolo  ill  small  detachments. 
Meantime  tlie  Duke  and  his  com- 
panions, feeling"  very  stiff  and  un- 
comfortable after  a  night  spent  upon 
the  rocks,  in  tlie  open  air,  deliberated 
as  to  tlie  best  means  of  forming  a 
camp  under  the  existing  conditions. 
At  first  sififht  the  thiiiir  seemed 
impossible.  Great  blocks  of  rock,  heaped  in  confusion  at 
the  foot  of  the  cliff,  or  projecting  from  the  hollow  at  its 
base,  left  not  a  yard  of  ground  free.  Underneath,  the  pile 
of   blocks    formed  caverns    and    liollows  of    which    a    few    were 


138 


Peaks  at  tlie  Head  of  ^Mobukii  Valley. 

relativelv   dry  and   biu"    eiiouiiii    to    tuiiu    ])Ossible  shelters   for 
the  natives. 

The  cliff  ovei'luiiig'  tlie  place,  wliile  the  chaos  of  loose  blocks 
reached  to  the  verge  of  the  steep  slope  whicli  led  down  to  the 
bottom  of  the  vallev.  This  slope  was  one  tangled  mass  of  moss, 
mud  and  stones,  shaded  bv  the  desolate  heath  forest. 


liUJOXGOLO. 


They  began  by  cutting  down  numerous  trees,  and  so 
distributing  the  trunks  among  the  rocks  as  to  build  up 
platforms  wide  enough  to  carry  the  six  tents.  These  tents 
stood  on  different  levels,  making  two  groups  separated  from  one 

139 


Cliapter  V. 

anotluT  l)v  a  lnii;v  l)oul(lt'r.  To  pass  from  one  of  tliese  groups 
to  tlie  other  you  had  cither  to  go  round  the  boulder,  under 
the  perpetual  (hip  of  water  Avliicli,  even  in  fine  weather,  came 
off  tlie  edo-e  of  the  overhanafina:  rock,  or  else  vou  must  clamher 
between  the  l)oulder  and  the  rocky  wall,  a  feat  requiring  some 
acrobatic  skill.  Close  to  the  tents,  in  a  small  space  between 
three  heath  trees,  were  arranged  the  instrunK^its  which 
composed  the  small  meteorological  observatory. 

Bv  no  effort  was  it  possible  so  to  transform  this  inconvenient 
spot  as  to  create  an  even  tolerable  camp,  such  as  would  have 
been  desirable  foi-  a  base  station,  where  the  expedition  might 
spend  a  consideral)le  time,  and  whither  exploring  parties  might 
return  from  the  high  mountains  for  rest  and  refreshment. 
Unfortunatelv.  there  seemed  to  be  no  place  in  the  region  which 
combined  other  attractions  with  a  certain  measure  of  shelter 
from  the  weather. 

The  River  Mobuku  flows  at  the  foot  of  Bujongolo  nK)re  than 
600  feet  below.  The  camp  stood  nearly  at  the  entrance  of  a 
little  tributary  valley,  which  at  this  point  opens  out  of  the  right 
flank  of  the  Mobuku  Valley.  The  latter  is  visible  for  a  short 
tract  onlv,  not  farther  than  the  foot  of  Kiyanja,  at  which  ])oint 
it  makes  a  sharp  bend  to  the  northward.  Kiyanja  has  from 
tliis  side  the  appearance  of  a  high  rocky  wall  ending  in  a  sharjj 
peak.  To  the  left  of  this  peak,  at  the  top  of  the  wall,  lies  a 
level  glacier  overhung  l)y  a  roimded  smumit.  To  the  right 
stretches  a  jiigg<3d  ridge,  at  whose  feet  flows  down  into  the 
valley  another  glacier,  partly  hidden  by  the  corner  formed  on 
the  left  slope  of  the  Mobuku  Valley  at  the  point  where  it  turns 
to  the  north. 

Opposite  the  cam}),  on  the  other  side  of  the  valley,  a  spur 
descends  OTaduallv  down  to  the  iilain  of  Buamba.      Beyond  this. 

140 


Peaks  at  the  Head  of  Mobuku   \^alley. 

spur  rises  a  great  double  peak.*  Two  ridges  run  up  straight 
from  the  base  to  the  points  foriuiug  a  wide  couloir  between 
them. 

At    this    elevation,    where    the    temperature    often    reached 
freezing    point    during    the   night,    it    became    indispensable    to 


THE   KIYANJA   OF   JOHNSTON   FROM   BUJONGOLO. 

clothe  the  Bakonjo  porters  in  some  degree.  The  Duke  had 
foreseen  this,  and  warm  flannels  and  blankets  were  distributed 
among  them.  They  had  great  difficulty  in  putting  them  on, 
and  their  long  and  ludicrous  attempts  generally  resulted  in 
a  frantic   effort   to   squeeze  their  legs   into   the   sleeves   of  the 


*  Mt.  Cagni. 
141 


Chapter  V. 

woollen  vests.  The  blankets  tied  around  their  shoulders  and 
girt  with  a  rope  around  the  waist  formed  a  garment  somewhere 
between  a  toga  and  a  cassock.  At  all  events,  the  poor  fellows 
were  now  protected  from  the  cold,  which  was  the  essential 
point. 

While  the  Duke,  witli  the  help  of  Dr.  Cavalli,  directed  the 
organization  of  the  camp,  Messrs.  Knowles,  Sella  and  Roccati 
made  a  preliminary  exploration  as  far  as  the  Mol)uku  Glacier 
at  the  head  of  the  valley. 

On  the  followino;  mornino;,  June  i)tli,  Mr.  Knowles  and 
Mr.  Haldane,  who  liad  accompanied  the  expedition  as  far  as  the 
foot  of  the  mountains,  and  used  all  their  authority  and  their 
great  experience  to  facilitate  its  progress,  left  it  definitely  and 
returned  to  Fort  Portal.  H.R.H.  remembers  with  gratitude 
the  invaluable  help  which  they  gave  to  his  enterprise. 

The  porters  went  down  to  fetch  the  loads  which  had  been 
left  behind  at  Kichuchu.  The  Duke,  with  his  guides  and 
Botta  and  five  Bakonjos,  started  for  the  upper  end  of  the 
valley. 

After  leaving  Bujongolo,  the  way  continues  to  skirt  the 
right  slope  of  the  valley.  The  bottom  of  the  valley  is  nearly 
level,  marshy,  dotted  with  reeds,  lobelias  and  senecio,  and 
strewn  witli  fallen  tnmks  upon  which  you  stumble  at  every 
step,  and  slippery  with  wet  mosses  in  wliicli  you  sink  to  the 
knee.  The  opposite  side  of  the  valley  consists  of  a  smooth 
rock  wall. 

Where  the  valley  turns  nortliward  it  grows  still  narrower, 
forming  a  gorge  between  steep  walls.  At  the  upper  end  the 
Mobuku  Glacier  appears  actually  to  overhang  it,  all  broken 
and  full  of  crevasses,  covering  the  upper  portion  of  the  last 
rocky  clifi^  and  ending    in    an    ice    cavern    whence    issues   the 

llii 


Mobuku  Glacier 


Stairs  Pfak 
Ed'.vard  ,, 
Semper  , . 
Sai'oia  „ 
Elena  , , 
Afoerius  ,, 


Alexantira  Peak 
Margherita     ,, 
Stiihliitaiin  Pass 
I'itt"  EiiKtnuele  Peak 
j0hnston  ,, 

Soi-lli  Portal  ,, 


UPPER   GORGE    OF   THE    MOBUKU   VALLEY. 


Peaks  at  the  Head  of  Mobuku  Valley. 

torrent.      Near  to  the  glacier  the  only  plants  are  arl)oraceou.s 
senecio,  several  yards  high. 

A  little  before  the  end  of  tlie  valley  the  way  crosses  the 
torrent  and  mounts  a  frontal  moraine  left  bv  the  retreating;; 
glacier.  In  this  way  a  projecting  rock  is  reached  where 
Grauer  had  encamped  at  a  height  of  13,229  feet  above  tlie 
sea,  a  little  below  the  lower  end  of  the  glacier.  This  was  the 
last  point  where  it  was  possible  to  light  a  fire,  and  during 
the  brief  halt  the  porters  huddled  shivering  around  the  flame. 
The  distance  from  Bujongolo  to  this  point  is  one  hour's  march. 
The  way  now  continued  skirting  the  rock  to  the  right  and 
ascending  a  short  chimney  closed  at  the  top  by  a  boulder,  from 
which  still  hung  one  of  the  ropes  placed  there  by  Grauer  to 
facilitate  the  ascent.  Thanks  to  this  assistance  the  obstacle 
was  easily  sui-mounted. 

In  one  more  hour's  climb  up  the  rocks  the  left  margin  of 
the  glacier  was  reached  just  above  the  terminal  fall  of  seracs. 
Here  the  way  skirted  the  glacier  for  a  bit,  and  then  proceeded 
again  to  climb  the  rock  wall  over  a  difficult  passage,  which 
the  porters  would  have  Ijeen  unable  to  negotiate  without  the 
assistance  of  the  guides.  Their  bare  feet  slipped  continually 
upon  the  smooth  steep  moss-grown  slabs  of  rock,  or  got 
wounded  on  their  edges  and  sharp  points.  At  last  the  Duke 
gave  up  the  idea  of  bringing  them  further  and  sent  them 
back  to  Bujongolo. 

A  short  traverse  led  back  to  the  glacier  at  the  foot  of  a 
rocky  projection.  The  Duke  had  wished  to  encamp  on  the  top 
of  the  ridge  so  as  to  be  there  at  the  following  dawn  when 
there  was  greater  chance  of  a  clear  sky.  But  hardly  had 
they  reached  the  glacier  before  a  dense  fog  enveloped  the 
party  and    shut    out    everything    from    their    sight.       It    was 

U5  L 


Chapter  V. 

impossible  to  get  on  any  further  on  that  day.  With  their  ice- 
axes  they  levelled  a  little  space  between  the  stones  and  here  set 
up  the  one  Whyniper  tent  which  they  had  brought  with  them. 

After  Bujongolo  there  were  no  more  names  for  any  of  the 
places,  and  therefore  the  subsequent  camps  are  indicated  by 
numbers.  Tliis  one  on  the  rocks  to  the  left  of  the  Mobuku 
Glacier,  a])<)ve  the  terminal  ice-fall,  was  Camp  I,  altitude 
14,118  feet.  Botta  and  Laurent  Petigax  at  once  redescended 
to  Bujongolo.  Joseph  Petigax,  Oilier  and  the  porter  Brocherel 
remained  with  H.R.H.  The  afternoon  passed  slowly  and 
tediously  in  the  cold,  damp  fog,  which  did  not  lift  until  late 
in  the  evening. 

Before  daylight  on  the  lOtli  of  June,  tiie  weather  being  clear, 
the  Duke,  seized  by  an  irresistible  impatience  to  proceed,  and 
dreading  a  return  of  the  fog  at  any  moment,  hurried  on  the 
guides  at  a  forced  pace  down  the  rocks,  on  to.  the  glacier,  and  up 
the  snow  slopes  with  their  few  crevasses,  and  in  al)Out  half  an 
hour  reached  the  top  of  tlie  ridge.  The  daybreak  had  hardly 
commenced. 

The  whole  range  of  mountains  stood  before  them,  with  only 
the  topmost  peaks  shrouded  in  mist.  They  had  reached  the 
lowest  point  of  the  ridge  at  tlie  top  of  the  Mobuku  Glacier. 
Here  a  small  peak  projected  from  the  snow,  covered  with 
black  lichens  and  mosses,  while  a  few  grasses  and  a  species 
of  thistle  blossomed  on  its  sides.  This  is  the  rock  which 
Grauer,  in  January  of  tlie  same  year,  had  named  King  Edward 
Peak,  14,813  feet. 

From  this  depression,  which  may  be  described  as  a  col,  the 
ridge  rises  to  the  eastward,  on  the  right,  as  far  as  two  rocky 
peaks'*  separated  by  a  small  glacier.      Wollaston,  with  Woosnam, 


*  Moore  and  Wollaston  Peaks. 
146 


I 


Peaks  at  the  Head  of  JMobiiku  Valley. 

had  ascended  the  easternmost  of  these  in  February,  and  luid 
then  supposed  it  to  be  the  Duwoni  of  Johnston.  In  the 
opposite  direction  the  ridge  stretches  west  and  south,  forming 
two  more  peaks,  evidently  higher  than  those  to  the  east  of  the 
col.     These  south-western  peaks  form  the  Kiyanja  of  Johnston. "^ 


Moore  Peak. 


WoUastou  Peak. 


EASTERN    PEAKS   OF   MT.    BAKEIt,    SEEN   FROM   EDWARD    PEAK. 

In  fact,  the  peaks  at  tlie  upper  end  of  the  Mobuku  Valley 
form  a  single  group,  ending  in  a  continuous  ridge,  which 
curves  southward  in  a  complete  semicircle,  circumscribing  a  vast 
amphitheatre,  covered  to  a  great  extent  by  glaciers. 


*  Semper  and  Edward  Peaks. 
M7 


L  2 


Chapter  V. 

To  tlie  north,  on  the  other  hand,  the  groups  tower  above  a 
vast  valley  where  tlie  clear  waters  of  a  jieaceful  lakelet  reflect 
the  rocks  and  glaciers  round  about.  This  turned  out  to  be  the 
upper  end  of  that  valley  which  the  Prince  had  detected  at  its 
opening  into  tlie  Mobuku  Valley  between  the  two  southernmost 
Portal  peaks  opposite  Nakitawa.  As  he  had  then  siu'mised, 
this  vallev  does  actuallv  |)enetrate  to  the  heart  of  the  range, 
and  is  entirely  surrounded  by  snow  peaks  and  glaciers.  To  the 
south  of  it  lies  the  eastern  end  of  Kivanja,  while  to  the 
west  stands  the  great  central  group,*  formed,  as  had  been 
seen  from  the  Hima  Valley,  of  four  distinct  peaks  standing 
two  and  two  at  either  end  of  a  ridge  whence  a  great  glacier 
flows  down  and  covers  the  entire  slope.  To  the  north  stands 
the  Duwonif  of  Johnston,  which  from  this  point  appears  in 
fore-shortening  with  two  scpiat  snow  peaks.  There  could  now 
remain  no  doubt  i)ut  that  the  two  northern  peaks  of  the  central 
o;roii])  were  tlie  liicrhest  of  the  whole  chain. 

Further  oti',  to  the  right  of  Duwoni,  behind  a  great  spur 
which  runs  down  from  Duwoni  eastward,  appeared  two  more 
•  snow  peaks;]:  standing  at  the  head  of  a  tril)utary  of  the 
Bujuku  Valley.  On  the  last  ridge  of  this  eastern  spur  of 
Duwoni  there  is  a  strange  monolith,  standing  up  straight  as  a 
tower,  and  with  regular  angles,  which,  at  a  distance,  looks 
almost  architectural. 

The  discovery  of  the  Bujuku  Valley  proved  (piite  clearly 
that  the  terminal  ridge  at  the  head  of  the  Mobuku  Valley  is  not 
a  portion  of  the  watershed  of  the  chain,  as  had  been  supposed 
by  all  the  Duke's  predecessors  who  had  come  so  far.  It 
furthermore  proved  that  neither  the  main  group,  including  the 


*  Mt.  Stanley.  f  Mt.  Speke. 

I  Mts.  Kiniii  and  Gessi. 

Its 


Peaks  at  the  Head  of  ]\I()l)ukii  Valle}'. 

hiorhest  summits,  nor  the  Duwoiii  of  Johnston,  has  any  connection 
with  the  Mobuku  Valley.  H.Ii.H.  was  the  first  to  behold  the 
complete  panorama  of  the  range  spread  out  before  his  eyes.      It 


THE   HIGHEST   PEAKS   AND    LAKE    BIJIKU,    SEEN    FIK 'M    GltAl'ER'.S   ROCK. 

was  a  far  more  imposing  sight  than  could  have  been  imagined 
by  those  preceding  explorers  who,  once  they  reached  the 
terminal    gorge    of    the    Mobuku    Valley,    supposed    that     the 

151 


Chapter  V. 

glaciers  and  peaks  around  them  Mt^re  the  most  important  of 
the  whole  chain.  Wollaston  alone  had  had  a  glimpse  of  the 
groups  to  northward,  l)nt  the  fogs  had  not  permitted  him  to 
appreciate  their  nmnber  nor  their  exact  situation.  Even  in  the 
former  attempts  to  explore  the  range  from  the  west,  single 
mountains  only  liad  been  visible.  Possibly  David  had  had  a 
wider  view,  but  his  description  is  vague  and  confused. 

It  was  barely  6.30  in  tlu^  morning  when  the  little  party  once 
more  set  out  towards  the  west  in  the  direction  of  the  highest 
peaks  of  the  group,  proceeding  over  hard  snow  broken  by  a 
few  crevasses  on  the  left  flank  of  the  crest  facing  the  Mobuku 
Valley. 

The  ridge  rises  first  to  a  peak*  of  l)roken  and  I'otten  rock 
(15,843  feet),  of  which  H.R.H.  reached  the  summit  at  8  a.m.  A 
light  wind  was  blowing  from  the  western  valley,  and  drifts  of 
mist  began  now  and  again  to  shroud  the  prospect  from  their 
sight. 

To  the  west  of  this  2)eak  a  jagged  and  slightly  marked  arete 
leads  precipitously  down  to  the  pass  which  connects  Kiyanja 
with  the  central  and  highest  group.  The  main  ridge,  on  the 
other  hand,  bends  southward,  and  from  thence  onward  forms  part 
of  the  watershed  of  the  range  between  the  Mobuku  to  the  east 
and  another  smaller  \alley  which  falls  away  westward  toward 
the  Semliki.  The  west  face  of  Kiyanja  is  precipitous  like  the 
north  face,   which  overhangs  the  Bujuku  Valley. 

Without  stopping  on  this  first  peak,  the  caravan  proceeded 
southward  along  the  ridge  towards  the  highest  point,  now  less 
than  400  yards  distant.  At  l>.  15  a.m.  the  Prince  was  the  first  to 
set  foot  upon  the  highest  summit  of  Kiyanja, t  15,988  feet.  The 
rocks  of  the  summit  are  covered  with  fulgurites  in  the  form  of 


*  Semper  Peak.  f    Edward  Peak. 


inley 


I. 

Sa-.-Kin  Peak 

6. 

}'it 

2. 

AUxamlra  Peak 

7- 

Joh 

3- 

Margheritn  ,, 

8. 

Cri) 

4- 

Kiiward         ,, 

9- 

JIfo. 

5- 

Semper          „ 

lO. 

ll-c 

Peaks  at  the   Head  of  ^lobuku  Vallev 


vitreous  efflorescences.  The  wind  luid  ceased,  and  everything 
around  them  was  enveloped  in  mist.  Tlie  temperature  was 
mild,  al)()ut  43°  F.  They  remained  four  liours  on  the  to}), 
looking  anxiously  for  any  opening  in  the  mist  in  the  hope  of 
Sfatherino;  further  details  of  the  scene  aromid  tliem. 


Semper  Peak. 


E.l\var.l  Peak. 


■ 

pi 

JkH^^^^^S^m 

^^S? 

1^ 

^ 

^^^H^BI^y.^S^^ 

K^ 

^1 

^^^K 

i^l 

^^^ 

\  J 

_ 

r-^hL          '^..i^  -*^ *t?f*?^^^'J  3r 

J 

MT.    BAKER    (THE    KIY.A.XJA    OF   JOHXsTOX)   SEEX    FROM    THE   WEST. 

They  did  not  wait  in  vain.  They  were  able  to  make  out 
that  the  watershed  ridge  proceeded  southward  from  the  peak 
upon  Avhich  they  stood  and  downwards  to  a  col  beyond  Mhicli 
was  another  group  of  mountains,*  a  short  chain  of  ridges  and 
rocky  peaks,  with  a  few  glaciers  of  far  less  extent  than  those  of 

*  Mt.  Luigi  di  Savoia. 


Chapter  V. 

the  northern  groups.  The  low  watershed  col  had  every  appear- 
ance of  fornimg  an  easy  pass  between  Bujongolo  and  the  valley 
to  the  west  of  the  Kiyanja,  by  which  it  woidd  be  possible  to 
reach  the  foot  of  the  central  gi'oup  without  difficulty. 

Before  dipping  down  to  the  col,  the  south  ridge  of  the 
Kiyanja  rises  once  more  into  a  knob  of  rock,  which  is  clearly 
visible  from  Bujongolo,  and  is  tlie  point  ascended  by 
Mr.  Wollaston  in  February  and   in  April. 

By  one  o'clock  the  party  started  back.  They  crossed  once 
more  the  peak  which  they  had  ascended  first,  and  proceeded  in 
a  foo-  whicli  was  now  dense  and  immovable,  over  the  tracks 
which  they  luul  left  in  the  snow  in  the  morning.  At  three 
o'clock  thev  reached  Grauer's  rock,  and  in  half  an  hour  more 
were  in  the  camp  beside  the  Mobuku  Glacier.  Here  they 
found  Sella,  who  had  come  up  with  Laurent  Petigax  and  Botta. 
With  the  help  of  six  natives  they  had  brought  up  a  second 
tent  and  tbe  photographic  apparatus.  Sleety  rain  was  now 
falling,  which  soon  turned  into  a  thick  fall  of  snow. 

On  the  mornins;  of  the  11th,  the  Duke  returned  to 
Bujongolo.  Sella,  with  Botta  and  Broclierel,  in  their  turn, 
ascended  the  col.  The  tracks  of  the  Duke's  party  had 
disappeared  under  the  new  snow  which  had  fallen  during  the 
night,  and  the  mist  made  it  impossible  to  see  even  a  few 
steps  ahead. 

After  a  few  liours  spent  on  the  col  in  vainly  waiting  for 
the  mist  to  clear,  they  proceeded  to  climb  the  rocky  crag  which 
Grauer  had  named  after  King  Edward.  Once  on  the  top,  in 
spite  of  the  snow  which  was  now  falling  again,  they  set  up  the 
photographic  camera  on  its  tripod,  and,  huddling  around  it, 
waited  patiently.  By  two  in  tlie  afternoon  Sella  gave  it  up, 
folded   up   the   camera,   and    was   on   the   point    of  leaving   the 

154 


Peaks  at  the   Head  of  Mobuku  Valley. 

peak,  when  suddenly  the  sky  hegan  to  clear.  The  mists  melted 
rapidly  on  every  side,  and  in  a  few  minutes  all  the  mountains 
were  uncovered  except  only  the  extreme  summits.  The  camera 
was  immediately  set  up  again  and  a  panorama  taken. 

A  clear  sunset  followed.  The  sun  went  down  just  over  the 
two  highest  points,  lighting  up  the  snow  with  its  last  rays.  At 
nio;htfall  the  storm  beo-an  ao-ain  with  thunder,  litrhtnino^  and 
heavy  snow.  Sella  returned  to  the  col  in  the  mornino-.  He 
saw  the  mountains  once  more,  but  under  a  leaden  sky  with 
diffused  lio-ht  and  no  shadows.  Dark  banks  of  mist  were 
drifting  upward  from  the  east  in  a  light  Avind,  and  settling 
little  by  little  over  valleys  and  peaks. 

From  tlie  col  Sella  proceeded  to  a  peak  to  the  east,'"' 
15,269  feet,  over  rocks  which  were  not  difficult,  but  here  and 
there  were  rendered  dangerous  by  the  ice  and  snow. 

The  snowfall  had  ao-ain  beo-un,  but  he  remembered  his  luck 
of  the  preceding  day,  and  waited  patiently  on  the  top  until 
three  in  the  afternoon,  but  without  success.  On  returning  to 
the  col,  he  found  Roccati,  who  had  come  ujd  from  Bujongolo 
with  a  o'liide  to  take  observations  on  the  o-jaciers.  In  the 
■evening  Sella  remained  alone  in  camp  with  Botta.  The  snow 
was  now  fallino-  thick  and  continuous,  without  the  smallest 
interval. 

On  the  following  day,  13th  of  June,  the  tent  was  folded  up 
to  return  to  Bujongolo,  whence  five  natives  had  come  to  fetch 
the  loads.  The  descent  was  far  from  easy.  Numberless 
rivulets,  now  swollen  with  water,  fell  in  little  cascades 
-across  the  narrow  muddy  path,  and  made  the  mossy  rocks 
even  more  slippery  than  they  had  been.  It  was  extremely 
difficult    to    induce  the   terrified    natives    to  proceed.      In  the 

*  Moore  Peak. 
155 


Chapter  V. 

cliimnev,  near  Graiiers  cam]),  whicli  is  overhung  by  a 
])rojecting  rock,  thev  had  to  j)as.s  inulcr  a  real  waterfall, 
M'ith  a  certain  risk  of  heing  carried  away  down  tlie  pre- 
cipitous  slope.       Here  and   further   down,    as  far  as   the   point 


]UJ()N(;OLO. 


where  the  patli  becomes  less  steep,  Seha  and  Hotta  were 
obliged  to  carry  all  tlie  loads  themselves  by  instalments, 
while  the  Bakonjo,  silent  and  passive,  could  scarcely  manage 
to  proceed  at  all.  Finally,  a])out  seven  o'clock  in  tlie  evenings 
drenched  yv\t\\  water  and  covered  witli  nnid.  they  reached 
their  companions  at   Bujongolo. 

Herefrom  the  11th  u\)  to  tlie  14th  indusivt*  tbere  was  no 
im])rovement  in  tlu'  weather.  The  rain  was  nearly  continuous, 
while    storms   oi'    wind,    with    thunder    and    lightning,    followed 

1 50 


IValcs  at   the  Head  of  M(>l)ukii   Valley. 

upon  one  another  at  short  iuturvals.  Thick  dark  fog  enveloped 
evervthini;-.  The  eaiiip  was  soon  mvaded  hy  mud  and  water, 
and  a  continual  dri})  came  down  upon  the  tents  from  the 
overhano-ino-  rock.  Under  these  conditions  it  became  difEcult 
to  kindle  a  fire,  and  the  only  resource  was  to  keep  it  hurning 
dav  and  night,  which  retpiired  no  mean  amount  of  work  in 
feeding  it   and    providing   sufficient   fuel.       On   one  side  of  the 


HEATH   FOREST   BELOW    BUJOXGOLO. 


huge  boulder  whicli  divided  the  camp  in  two,  stood  the  three 
tents  of  the  Duke,  liis  companions,  and  Bulli,  standing  on 
different  levels.  They  had  constructed,  close  by,  a  rt)Ugh 
shed    where    they    could    eat,    and    the    kitchen    was    near    at 


lo7 


Chapter  Y. 

hand.  On  the  other  side  of  the  boulder  the  guides,  by  dint 
of  displacing  large  rocks  with  their  ice-axes  and  working 
hard  at   levelling,  had  made  room  for  their  own  tents. 

Every  time  that  anyone  stepped  out  of  the  camp  he 
would  sink  into  the  mud.  It  was  impossible  to  circulate 
between  the  tents  without  nailed  boots,  because  the  moment 
tliat  vou  came  out  a  sort  of  mountain-climl)ing  gymnastic 
beo-an     where    it    was    necessarv    to    hold    on    tight    at    every 

step. 

The  mean  temperature  was  from  39°  to  41°  F.  At  niglit 
it  o-enerally  fell  to  33°-34°,  and  sometimes  to  freezing  point. 
The  dampness,  however,  was  far  more  trying  tlian  the  cold. 

One  event  alone  would  occasionally  relieve  the  tedium, 
namely,  the  arrival  of  the  post.  The  letters  Mere  brought 
up  by  swift  com'iers — wrapped  up  carefully  in  banana  leaves, 
and  stuck  in  the  end  of  a  cleft  cane. 

Now  and  again  the  camp  would  be  filled  wltli  pungent 
smoke,  extremely  irritating  to  the  eyes  and  chest,  which 
came  from  the  fires  lit  by  the  Bakonjo  in  tlie  underground 
cavities  between  the  boulders.  They  huddled  together  all 
day  long  in  these  dens,  where  they  had  not  room  to  stretch 
themselves  out  at  length,  and  ate  or  smoked  incessantly  when 
thev  were  not  asleep.  Their  real  providence  A\as  tlie  fire. 
Thev  never  left  it  except  when  called  away,  and  lushed  1)ack 
to  squat  around  it  as  soon  as  they  were  no  longer  re(|uired. 
They  carried  it  about  with  them  from  place  to  place,  using  a 
sort  of  drv  fungus  whicli  remains  kindled  like  tinder,  and  wliicli 
they  keep  in  a  case  made  of  banana  leaves.  The  moment  a 
halt  was  called  durinii-  a  march,  in  less  than  no  time  the  natives 
would  have  kindled  a  fire  and  Ije  enjoying  a  fine  Ijlaze  and 
smoking   their   pipes,    and    it    was    not   always   easy   to   induce 

158 


BUJONGOLO 


Peaks  at  the  Head  of  ]\Iobukii  Valley. 

them  to  start  again  })roiiiptly.  They  were  once  found  on  tlie 
road,  shivering  in  the  rain  and  stark  naked,  having  taken  off 
their  vests  and  blankets  so  as  to  enjoy  to  the  full  the  heat 
of  the  glowing  coals.  They  ate  eagerly  whatever  food  was 
supplied  to  them,  but  they  did  not  like  novelty.  They  made 
wry  faces  before  making  up  their  minds  to  swallow  tea,  and  far 
preferred  their  mess  of  dura  floin%  which  to  us  seems  nauseating 
to  the  wdiite  wheat  flour,  even  when  prepared  with  butter. 

In  spite  of  these  trying  conditions  of  life,  the  Bakonjo 
showed  admirable  patience  and  docility.  It  was  very  rare, 
indeed,  for  even  a  single  porter  to  refuse  to  go  on  with  his 
load,  although  they  nearly  always  got  their  feet  swollen  and 
hurt  by  the  stones. 

Once  only,  on  returning  from  Bujongolo  after  a  few  days 
of  hard  service  in  the  mountains,  ten  of  them  deserted  because 
it  was  not  possible  to  dismiss  them,  as  they  desired.  The  law 
of  Uganda  does  not  permit  native  porters  to  abandon  a  caravan 
conducted  by  whites  until  they  have  finished  the  time  or 
traversed  the  distance  for  which  they  have  engaged  themselves. 
It  came  out  afterwards  that  the  deserters  had  been  instip-ated 
by  a  native  convert  of  the  plain,  the  one  and  only  Baganda 
who  had  been  willing  to  follow  the  caravan  as  far  as  the 
mountains.  Notwithstanding  the  cold  and  the  bad  weather, 
they  ran  away  stark  naked,  after  honestly  depositing  their 
warm  clothes  and  blankets  near  one  of  the  tents.  During 
the  sojourn  of  the  expedition  at  Bujongolo,  a  certain  number 
of  natives  got  bronchitis  and  coughs  and  were  sent  down. 
One  got  his  feet  frostbitten  and  was  carried  as  far  as  Fort 
Portal  to  the  hospital. 

Poor  Igini,  the  cook,  had  the  hardest  life  of  all.  He 
was    the    only    one    whose    activity    was    confined    within    the 

159 


Chapter  V. 

ring  of  deep  mud  which  tinned  the  camp  into  a  close  prison. 
Squatting  between  four  boulders,  liedged  about  by  the  cases 
of  rations,  the  kitchen  implements,  the  fire,  and  tlie  tent,  he 
had  far  less  cliance  of  exercise  than  during  the  polar  winter 
which  he  had  spent  in  Teplitz  Bay,  where  he  was  forced  to 
go  half  a  mile  to  fetch  the  meat  of  some  bear  hung  up  by 
the  ship,  or  had  to  work  to  disinter  the  cases  of  rations,  or 
help  to  run  after  the  dogs. 

The  daily  visits  of  a  big  leopard,  whose  den  was  situated 
under  the  heath  forest  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  camp,  did 
not  contribute  to  render  the  sojourn  at  Bujongolo  pleasant. 
This  leopard  was  observed  for  the  first  time,  on  the  11th  of 
Jime,  bv  a  native,  not  far  from  the  tent  devouring  two  sheep 
belonging  to  the  expedition.  On  the  following  night  he  prowled 
around  the  camp.  On  the  evening  of  the  12th,  the  Duke,  who 
was  absorbed  in  writing  at  the  opening  of  his  tent,  saw  liim 
only  a  few  paces  off.  The  animal  fled  as  soon  as  lie  stood  up, 
but  his  boldness  gave  cause  to  fear  for  the  porters  who  slept 
unprotected,  or  for  those  who  went  to  fetch  water  for  the 
camp.  In  vain  were  the  surroundings  examined  and  beaten  ; 
the  animal  seemed  very  cunning,  and  when  hunted  never 
allowed  himself  to  be  seen. 

On  the  evening  of  the  \'M\\,  the  weather  liad  shown  a 
tendency  to  improve,  but  during  the  night  grew  worse  again. 
On  the  evening  of  the  14tli,  however,  it  seemed  really  to  clear. 
The  sky  became  free  from  clouds,  the  last  traces  of  mist  melted 
away,  and  all  the  mountains  came  into  sight  covered  far 
down  with  the  fresh  snow  which  had  fallen  during  the  last 
days.  The  intolerable  imprisonment  was  finally  coming  to  an 
end,  and  the  Duke  made  preparations  to  start  out  on  the 
following  morning  to  explore  the  central  grc)U|)  of  the  chain. 

160 


MT.  CAGNI  SEEN  FROM  BUJONGOLO. 


M 


Peaks  at  the   Head  of  ]\[obitku   \"alley. 

CV>iniii;uider  C'Rgiii,  wlio  was  hasteiiiiii;-  up  tlie  Mobuku 
Valley,  liad  hy  this  time  nearly  rejoined  his  comrades,  who 
l)elieved  him  to  l)e  still  many  days'   journey  oW. 

He  had  left  Entehbe,  as  we  said,  on  the  5th  of  June,  with 
twenty-five  porters,  a  rickshaw  and  a  horse.  In  a  short  time 
he  so  far  recovered  his  strength  and  got  so  perfectly  into 
training  tliat  he  was  able  to  make  two,  or  even  four,  stages  in 
a  day.  He  took  advantage  of  the  full  moon  to  leave  before 
dawn,  and  continued  the  march  till  late  in  the  day,  doing 
25  to  27  miles  at  a  time.  The  porters,  allured  by  presents 
of  a  sheep  or  a  little  money,  performed  miracles.  Once  they 
marched  for  seventeen  hours,   covering   .'^>2   miles. 

In   six  days,    Cagni   reached   Toro,   where    King    Kasagama 
showed    him    every    courtesy.      He   left    again   in   the   morning 
of  the  12th  of  June.     At  Butanuka  he  found  the   178  Baaanda 
porters    who    had    been    sent    back    from    the   Mobuku    Valley. 
Following  the  directions  of  tlie  Duke,   lie   dismissed  a  portion 
of  them,   and   sent  the  others   back   to   Fort    Portal,   there   to 
await  the   return    of  the    expedition  from  tlie   mountains.      He 
had    difficulty    in    crossing    the    Wimi  Iliver,   which    had   now 
become    an    impetuous    torrent  some    50   yards    wide,    \A'ith    a 
depth   of  more   than  three   feet   at   some  points,  and   he  found 
a   still  more   serious  obstacle    in    the    Mobuku,    swollen   liy   the 
same  rains  which  were  imprisoning  the  expedition  at  Bujongolo. 
Not   having   a  rope   long   enough  to  permit  of  his  stretch- 
ing   it  across   the  river,   as   the    expedition   had    done,    lie   tied 
together  the  halter  of  his  horse,  the  tent  ropes,  the   cords  used 
to  tie  the  loads,  etc.,  doubling  them  several  times,  and  in   this 
way  he  contrived  a   rope  lono-  enouo-ji  to  cover  ahout    half  the 
widtli  of  the  torrent.      This  he   liad   kept  taut  across  the  central 
and  swifter  part  of  the  current  ])y  two  groups  of  men.      Tlianks 

163  M  2 


Chapter  V. 

to  the  wilHng  help  of  the  chiefs  and  natives  of  the  neighbouring 
villages,  he  managed  to  cross  the  river  without  accidents,  but 
with  the  loss  of  half  a  day. 

On  the  14th  of  June,  at  Bihunga,  where  the  native  soldiers 
of  the  escort  were  established,  he  changed  his  Baganda  porters 
for  Bakonjo.  Two  days  later  he  reached  Bujongolo,  thus 
accomplishing  the  whole  journey  in  ten  stages. 

Here  he  found  only  Dr.  Cavalli,  the  Duke  having  left  the 
evening  before,  while  Sella  and  Roccati  had  started  that  very 
morning  to  ascend  the  col  to  the  south  of  Kiyanja. 


164 


CHAPTER  YI. 
Peaks  of  the  Central  Group. 

The  Bakonjo's  dread  of  the  Western  Slopes — H.E.H.  leaves  Bujoiigolo — March 
through  fog  and  mud — The  Col  on  the  Watershed — Camp  near  the  Lake — 
Ascent  of  the  Valley  to  the  West  of  Kiyanja — Camp  III — Col  at  the  foot 
of  the  Central  Group  —  Camp  IV  —  The  Bujuku  Valley  once  more  in 
sight — Ascent  of  Alexandra  Peak — In  the  Fog — Climbing  Margherita  Peak — 
Snow-blindness — Elena  and  Savoia  Peaks — The  Expedition  united  again — 
Adventures  of  the  Duke's  companions  from  the  15th  to  the  20th  of  June — 
Sella  and  Roceati  climb  a  peak  of  the  Southern  Group. 


Douglas  Freshfield  had  been  told 
by  his  caravan  leader  tluit  the  col 
towards  which  the  southern  ridge 
of  Kiyanja  runs  down,  and  which 
forms  a  part  of  the  watershed,  had 
been  used  as  a  pass  by  the  natives 
on  the  west  of  the  chain  who  were 
in  the  habit  of  crossiiio-  it  into  the 

o 

Mobiikn,  on  tlieir  way  to  Buanil)a  to 
trade  with  the  Bakonjo. 

The  Duke,  however, failed  to  ^atlier 

from   his  porters  the  least    scrap    of 

information    as    to    any    way    of    communication    between    the 

eastern  and  w^estern  slopes.      They  appeared  rather  to  experience 

a  feeling  of  terror  for  the  district  beyond  the  ridge,  and  seemed 


165 


Chapter  VI. 

profoundlv  coiivinetHl  tliat  to  oo  tow.-irds  the  Cono-o  was 
equivalent  to  going  to  meet  certain  death.  It  was  only  too 
natural  that,  with  tliese  feelhigs,  tliey  shoidil  show  extreme 
reluctance  to  Ibllowinu-  the  Prince  westward. 

On  the  morning  of  the  15th  June,  there  were  only  nine 
Bakonjo  at  Bujongolo,  hardly  a  suthcient  numl)er,  with  tlie 
addition  of  the  four  guides  and  Botta,  to  carry  tlie  kit  of 
tlie  Duke,  now  reduced  to  al)solute  necessities  and  rations  for 
a  fe\\-  days.  At  the  last  moment  the  natives  put  forward  a 
claim  to  heing  paid  every  day,  and  the  Duke  of  tlie  Al)ruzzi 
was  obliged  to  load  liimself  ^^■ith  a  not  inconsideral)le  weight 
of  rupees. 

Finallv,  ahout  eijiht  o'clock,  as  no  other  excuse  for  fresh 
delay  was  available,  they  started  from  camp  in  Inilliant  sini- 
shine.  First  they  went  up  the  little  valley  which,  as  M^e  saw, 
opens  on  tlie  riglit-hand  side  of  the  Moliuku,  near  to 
Bujongolo.  They  followed  the  line  of  the  small  torrent, 
crossing  from  one  liank  to  the  other,  and  so  reached  the 
top  of  the  spur,  and  came  into  a  valley  formed  by  a 
torrent  fed  from  the  southern  glaciers  of  Kiyanja.  This  is 
the  same  torrent  whicli  forms  the  picturesque  waterfall  on 
the  right  slope  of  thf  plain  of  Buamba.  Close  to  the  head 
of  the  little  valley  are  two  ])rojectiiig  rocks  forming  natural 
shelters,  similar  to  those  of  Kichuchu  and   Buamba. 

The  ground  was  drenched  with  tlie  rain  which  had  fallen 
during  the  preceding  (lavs,  and  after  an  bonis  inarch  evervoiie 
wiXH  wet  to  the  skin,  and  co\ered  with  iiind.  Tlie  march  was 
tiring,  because  at  every  few  steps  you  slijiped  or  sank  into  the 
mud.  The  porters  were  suspicions  of  the  unknown  country 
towards  whicli  tlieir  ste])S  were  directed,  and  pioceeded 
unwillingly,    with    exasperating   slowness.       'fliey    had    stopped 

1G6 


THE   VALLEY   TO   THE   WEST   OF   MT.    BAKER. 


Peaks  of  the   Central  Group. 

twenty  minutes  after  leaving  Bujongolo,  and  had  immediately 
kindled  a  fire  and  lit  their  pipes.  After  another  half  hcmr's 
march  they  repeated  this  performance.  When  urged  to 
proceed  they  would  aiiswei'  l)y  pointing  to  their  head,  feet, 
hellv  or  legs,  each  of  which  portions  of  their  persons  seemed  to 
have  been  suddenly  afflicted  with  painful  complaints.      To  make 


•^       -I'    i.    ■;:.■■.■•.; 

m 

MT.    STANLEY    SEEX    FROM   FRESHFIELD  S   COL. 


things  worse,  the  fog  closed  in  again,  and  the  marsh\^  vaUey 
was  crossed  without  a  glimpse  of  anything  beyond  the  senecios 
and  lobelias  around  them,  and  the  moss,  mud  and  stones  at 
their  feet.  The  watershed*  was  at  last  reached  after  an  easy 
climb,  partly  on  the  slo]3e  and  partly  in  a  gorge. 


*  Freshfield  Pass. 
1G7 


Chapter  YI. 

A  cold  \\'\\\(\  was  l)l()wino-  and  the  porters  rushed  to  find 
shelter.  The  height  was  14,193  feet  ahove  the  sea-level. 
They  were  ahove  the  zone  of  trees,  and  tliere  were  only  mosses, 
lichens  and  elnnips  of  everlasting  dowers. 

The  wind  drove  the  fog  hither  and  tliitlier,  opening  np 
glimjDses  of  the  country  now  in  one  direction,  now  in  another. 
To  the  north  of  the  col  rose  the  southern  ridge  of  Kiyanja,  wide, 
rounded,  and  covered  on  the  top  by  a  glacier  which  falls  over 
to  the  right  and  left  on  the  two  slopes,  and  which  must  have  once 
come  down  so  as  to  cover  the  entire  col.  The  traces  are  clear  on 
the  polislu-d  and  lined  rocks.  Southward  stands  the  group  of 
rocky  peaks  which  H.Ti.H.  had  already  observed  from  the 
summit  of  Kiyanja.  Here  they  sa\v  two  small  glaciers  which 
hll  two  cols,  while  a  third  between  them  is  rocky  and  free  from 
ice.  Four  j^eaks  form  these  cols  ;  the  westernmost  and  furthest 
off  appeared  to  be  the  highest. 

At  the  foot  of  these  peaks,  between  them  and  a  spur  of 
Kiyanja,  lies  a  valley  which  slopes  down  due  west.  Beyond 
this  spur  they  caught  sight  of  the  light  reflected  on  two  tiny 
lakes,  which  lie  at  the  bottom  of  another  valley  running  from 
no]*th  to  south,  starting  from  the  col  between  Kiyanja  and  the 
central  group. 

It  was  this  col  ^^■hich  the  Duke  wished  to  reach  and  to  make 
his  base  for  attaining  to  the  highest  ])eaks.  While  he  carefully 
noted  down  every  detail  of  the  counti  v  ^^•bich  was  visible, 
taking  advantage  of  the  rifts  in  the  moving  mists,  a  guide  went 
forward  to  find  out  wlictlier  it  nuglit  not  Ix'  possible  to  skirt  the 
western  slopes  of  Kivanja  without  dt'sccnding  to  the  bottom  of 
the  valley,  which  would  then  necessitate  reascending  to  the 
farther  col.  The  guide  now  came  back  and  brought  news  that 
it  would  not  be  jjossible  to  skill    tbt-   mountain   because  its  side 

1G8 


LAKE   TO   THE   WEST   OF   MT.    BAKER — CHARRED   SENECIOS. 


\k. 


Peaks  of  the  Central  Group. 

towards  the  valley  was  precipitous.  They  were  therefore 
oblio-ed  to  o-o  down  to  the  lakes. 

Soon  after  midday  the  little  party,  leaving  a  portion  of  its 
loads  on  the  col  so  as  to  move  more  rapidly,  started  afresh,  and 
first  skirted  the  western  slope  at  the  same  level,  very  little 
under  the  pass  but  above  the  forest  of  senecios,  in  order  to 
reach  the  ridge  of  the  south-west  spur  of  Kiyanja. 

From  here  they  descended  towards  the  lower  of  the  two  little 
lakes.  The  descent  was  steep,  the  mud  was  slippery,  and  then- 
way  led  through  a  forest  of  senecios  and  clumps  of  helichrysum, 
wdiich  the  o-uides  cut  and  broke  with  blows  of  their  ice-axes  to 
clear  a  path.  There  were  great  smooth  slabs  to  be  avoided, 
which  here  and  there  stuck  out  of  the  gi^ound  and  were 
too  steep  to  walk  upon.  The  porters  kept  striking  their  loads 
against  the  low  and  dense  ramifications  of  the  senecios,  slipped 
on  the  big  stones,  stumbled  among  the  dead  trunks  and 
branches  which  lav  half-buried  in  the  mud,  and  had  to 
be  incessantlv  eiicom-aged  and  urged  to  proceed.  They  were 
overhung  by  the  precipitous  sides  of  Kiyanja,  which  threatened 
them  with  stone  falls.  As  they  neared  the  bottom  of  the 
valley,  they  were  surprised  to  find  a  vast  tract  of  senecio 
forest,  where  the  trunks  and  branches  were  bare,  blackened, 
and  partially  carbonized  by  recent  lire.  There  was  no  sign 
to  indicate  the  passage  of  man,  nor  was  it  probable  that  the 
inhabitants  of  the  vallevs  would  have  pushed  so  far  up 
without  cau.se  ;  hence  it  must  be  supposed  that  the  tire  was 
either  spontaneous  or  caused  by  lightning.  The  dense  mantle 
of  dead  leaves  which  hangs  downwards  around  every  branch  of 
the  senecio  under  the  terminal  bunch  of  green  leaves,  and  which 
is  one  of  the  chief  features  in  the  strange  aspect  of  this 
curious    plant,    offers   abmidant    fuel   for   tire   and  is  as  easy  to 

171 


Chapter  VI. 

kindle  as  tinder.  It  niioht  perfectly  well  be  set  ablaze  merely 
through  the  heat  developed  in  fermentation,  which  must  be 
especially  active  and  energetic  in  this  climate.  The  fact  is 
interesting  were  it  onlv  to  show  tliat  there  must  be  occasional 
dry  spells  of  sufficient  length  to  allow  of  the  dead  leaves  getting 
dry  to  a  certain  extent,  for  in  the  soaked  state  in  which  they 
are  usually  found,  it  would  seem  quite  impossible  that  tliey 
should  provoke  a  conflagration.  Between  the  blackened 
skeletons,  striplings  were  already  shooting  up  to  replace  the 
ruined    forest. 

The  party  reached  the  shore  of  the  first  lake  to^^'ards 
four  o'clock.  It  was  plainly  impossible  to  oblige  the  porters 
to  proceed  on  that  day.  The  Duke  decided  to  encamp  upon  a 
spur  which  runs  out  into  the  lake,  and  is  about  90  feet  high. 
The  level  above  the  sea  was  13,271  feet;  810  feet  above  the 
camp  of  Bujongolo. 

The  valley,  ^^'llich  up  to  this  point  ran  due  north  and  south, 
here  turns  abruptly  to  the  west,  becoming  so  narrow  that  the 
lakelet  fills  the  whole  bottom,  which  forms  a  sort  of  oval  basin 
resembling  a  crater  at  first  sight.  A  few  ducks  wander 
over  the  water.  There  were  traces  of  leopards  and  marmots, 
and  a  few  ci'ows  were  flvinp-  overhead.  There  was  no  other 
sign  of  animal  life.  A  little  torrent,  falling  down  from  the 
glaciers  of  Kivanja,  gave  abundance  of  water.  There  was 
plenty  of  wood  ^^■itllill  reach,  and  it  was  soon  possible  for 
everyone  to  dry  liis  garments  around  a   big  fire. 

In  the  clear  fine  afternoon  the  little  lake,  barely  ruffled  by 
the  breeze,  reflected  tlie  snowy  peaks.  Tlie  valley  was  one 
mass  of  flowers,  and  in  this  ])eaceful  scene  they  soon  forgot 
the  fatigue  of  the  hard  day.  The  s\m  went  down  behind  a 
dense  layer  of  clouds,  which  lay  across  the  sky  to  tlie  westward. 

172 


THE   UPPER    LAKE   IN   THE   VALLEY   TO   THE   WEST   OF   MT.    BAKER. 


Peaks  of  the  Central   Group. 

Presently  the  sun  appeared  ag-ain  helow  these  clouds  and 
lit  ii|)  the  western  sky,  the  valley,  and  the  vast  forest  of 
the  Congo,  which  merged  in  the  intense  red  of  the  far-off 
horizon. 

On  the  following  morning,  Laurent  Petigax,  Brocherel,  and 
three  native  porters  went  back  to  fetch  the  loads  which  had 
been  left  on  the  preceding  day  on  the  pass  when  they  came 
lip  from  Bujongolo.  The  others  set  out  on  the  march  carrying 
the  rest.  They  skirted  the  two  little  lakes  at  the  foot  of  the 
slopes  of  Kiyanja,  cutting  their  way  step  by  step  through 
the  dense  tangle  of  senecio  and  helichrysum.  Between 
the  thickets  of  sempervivum  Avere  found  specimens  of  an 
exceedingly  beautiful  large  flowering  hypericum,  together 
with  ranunculus,  several  plants  of  the  cruciferous  family, 
alchemilla,  balsam,  robbia,  etc.  The  valley  was  narrow  and 
grim,  shut  in  l^etween  steep  rocks,  dryer  than  the  Mobuku, 
and  showing  many  and  clear  traces  of  glacier  action  at  a  not 
very  remote  period.  Tlie  whole  l^ottom  was  full  of  moraine 
rubbish,  mingled  with  detritus,  fallen  from  Kiyanja.  Both 
lakes  are  of  olacial  formation.  Under  the  lower  lake  lies 
a  frontal  moraine  forming  a  dam,  with  a  spur  of  rounded 
rock.  The  two  lakes  are  divided  by  a  rocky  transversal 
ridge  covered  with  detritus.  To  the  north  of  the  upper  lake 
lies  another  moraine  forming  a  steep  bank,  above  which  a 
higli  plain  slopes  upward.  Here  the  valley  widens  out  about 
two-thirds  (jf  a  mile.  At  the  foot  of  Kiyanja  is  a  long 
neve,   formed  bv  avalanches  tallino-  over  tlie  side. 

The  valley  is  dominated  bv  the  soutliern  ^^eaks  of  the 
central  group,  from  which  flow  down  two  glaciers,  forming 
two  sources  of  tlie  torrent  ;  the  third  springs  from  a  glacier 
of  Kivaiija. 


Chapter  VI. 

Camp  III  was  formed  at  a  height  of  13,842  feet,  ahnost 
directly  under  the  two  peaks  of  Kiyaiija,  which  the  Duke  had 
ascended  six  days  l)efore.  Here  also  was  an  ahundance  of 
water  and  of  fire-wood. 


HEAD   OF  THE   VALLEY   TO   THE   WEST   OF   MT.    BAKER. 

From     this    point     the     ascent     of    the     col*     offered     no 
difficulty.        The     way     followed     the     ridge     of     an     ancient 

*  Scott  Elliot  Pass. 
176 


i     . 


^•^ 

^  "^ 


Peaks  of  the  Central  Group. 

median  moraine,  wliicli  shows  that  at  one  time  the  glaciers 
of  Kivanja  joined  those  of  the  central  group  and  ran  down 
into  the  vallev  togetlier.  The  senecios  and  everlasting 
flowers  came  nearly  up  to  tlie  top  of  tlie  col.  growing 
ffraduallv  less  dense. 

On  reaching  the  to})  of  the  coL  tlie  party  followed  the 
ridge  westward  as  far  as  a  point  near  the  edge  of  the 
glacier,  which  runs  down  to  tlie  feet  of  the  sontliernmost 
peaks  of  the    central  grou]).      These   peaks  form    two   imposing 


LAMP    IV,    (JLUSE   TO    THE    ELENA    (iEACIEr.. 

towers  of  rock.  The  camp  w^as  pitched  upon  the  broken 
stones  near  the  Macier  at   a  heiofht   of  14.817   feet. 

There  were  now  rations  for  one  day  only,  so  the  whole 
of  the  Bakonjo,  as  well  as  Laurent  Petigax  and  Botta,  were 
sent  back  to  Bujongolo.  Joseph  Petigax,  Oilier  and  Brocherel 
remained  with  the  Duke. 

The  afternoon  was  clear  and  the  mountains  free  from 
cloud.  The  camp  overlooked  the  valley  with  its  little  blue 
lake,   which    liad    been  seen   from  the  ridge   at  the   top  of  the 


177 


Chapter  YI. 

Mobuku  Glacier.  From  tlu'  col  which  thcv  had  jnst  traversed, 
a  nearly  perpendicular  rock  wall  falls  down  to  this  valley  on 
tlie  north.  The  eye  followed  the  vallev  for  a  long  distance 
eastward  and  saw  it  turn  southward  in  tlie  distance  to  join 
the  Mohuku.  Thus  there  remained  no  possible  doul)t  as  to 
this  bein*;-  really  the  Bujuku  Valley,  and  as  to  the  great 
snowy  mountain  to  the  north  being  reallv  tlie  Duwoni  of 
Johnston.  To  the  south-east  the  view  is  shut  out  by  tlie 
mass  of  Kiyanja. 

The  ii"uides  wlio  had  climbed  the  olacier  to  make  out 
the  way  to  the  central  group  I'etiuiied  towards  evening. 
The  sunset  was  less  clear  than  on  the  preceding  days.  The 
extreme  nearness  of  the  goal  made  the  forced  delay  intolerable. 
The  Duke,  cooped  up  with  the  guides  in  the  narrow  space 
of  a  single  tent,  passed  a  great  })ortion  of  tlie  night  in 
anxious  wa telling,  jjreoccujjied  bv  disagreeable  doubts  as  to 
the  weather. 

Finally,  the  day  dawned  on  the  18tli  of  June  with  a  clouded 
grey  sky.  They  roped  together  hastily  and  in  silence,  Joseph 
Petigax  and  Oilier  came  first,  then  the  Duke,  and  lastly, 
Brocherel.  Tht/v  beuan  tht-  ascent  of  the  glacier  aloni>-  the 
way  traced  by  the  guides  <»n  the  preceding  day.  The  great 
ice  plain  was  reached  without  ditficultv  in  about  one  hour. 
It  was  ().'M)  in  the  moi-ning.  and  tlie  peaks  which  thev  desired 
to  reach  stood  before  th(Mn  at  a  verv  short  distance.  They 
were  both  covered  with  snow,  and  the  southernmost,  wliich 
stood  nearest  to  tliem.  showed  a  r(»ck  jirecipice  on  the  east 
side  surmounted  by  a  big  cornice  of  snow  and  was  joined 
by  a  rounded  ice  col  to  the  noithern  peak,  which  was  some- 
what lup'her,  and  from  which  r.in  down  two  ridjies,  one 
eastward  in  a  straight  line   towards  the  vallev,  the  other  north- 

178 


Peaks  of  the   Central  Groii]). 

Avestward,  slioiitlv  coiicavc,  and  teniiiuating  in  a  cliaracteristic 
shoulder.  The  })eak  and  the  ridges  are  overhiuii;'  hy  a  gigantic 
cornice,  supported  hv  a  colonnade  of  icicles  and  aiguilles  of  ice 
which  at  a  distance  seem  like  a  line  white  lacework. 

Hound  al)Out  tbeni  the  snow  had  the  pale,  lack-lustre  lnie 
of  had  weather.  For  one  moment  a  ray  of  siuilight  lit  it  up, 
hut  was  immediately  cpienched  by  the  dense  clouds  wliicli 
were   piling   up   rapidly   from   the   east.       Gusts   of    wind    were 


AI.EXAXDEA   AND    MAKGHERITA    TEAKS   FROM    THE    STANLEY    i'LATEAT. 


blowing  from  the  east,  and  layers  of  mist  were  ascending  the 
valley  in  compact  masses  and  soon  slnit  in  the  party  com- 
])letely.  They  continued  their  way  in  silence.  Witbout  the 
least  uncertainty,  with  a  sure  intuition  of  the  rigbt  direction, 
Josepli    Petigax     made     bis     way     through     the    dense     mists 

179 


N    L' 


Chapter  VI. 

and  ascended  the  liii;li  ])laiii  as  far  as  tlie  foot  of  the 
south-east  ridge  of  tlie  southernmost  peak.  The  liard  snow, 
which  carried  tlieni,  allowed  them  to  climl)  swiftly  up  the 
wide  snowv  ridire,  cuttino-  onlv  a  few  steps  at  tlie  stee])est 
points.      P>v  7.;^0  a.m.   they  reached  the  top  of  the  first  peak. 


(JI.IMBIXG   THE    SOITII-KAST    KIIXJK    OF    ALKXAXl  )|;A    I'F.AK. 

A  strouii'  wind  was  hlowini'-  from  the  east.  lioniid  aho\it 
them  the  dazzling-  white  of  the  mist  was  impenetrahle  to 
the  sight.  Everyone  liad  liis  mind  fixed  upon  the  highest 
summit,  wliicli  was  only  a  few  hundri-d  yards  off,  Imt  quite 
invisible,  and  they  stood  there  waiting  and  turning  their 
eyes    f)hstinatelv    northward.        During     an     hour    and     a-half 

18U 


'J 


^ 


^ 


^ 


Peaks  of  the  Central  Group. 

there  were  only  brief  moments  wlieii  tlie  mist  would  otow 
shghtly  thinner,  so  tliat  they  could  just  make  out  the 
uncertain  outline  of  tlie  highest  peak. 

There  were  only  two  ways  to  reach  it.  Thev  must  either 
descend  to  the  gap  and  thence  attempt  to  scale  the  ice  wall 
overhung  hy  the  formidable  cornice,  or  tliev  must  return  to 
the  plateau,  cross  it  under  the  col,  and  ascend  l)v  the 
east  ridge,  a  long  and  indirect  way,  which  would  have  to  1)e 
done  in  the  fog  without  any  sign  to  p;uide  them.  As  to  the 
question  of  giving  up  the  ascent  for  that  day  and  returning 
to  camp,  a  glance  at  the  set  determined  faces  of  the  guides 
was  sufficient  to  show  tliat  such  an  idea  never  entered  their 
minds. 

By  nine  o'clock  they  could  not  endure  waiting  anv  longer, 


CLIMBING    ALEXANDRA    TEAK. 

and  they  decided  to  take  the  mountain  by  the  shortest  route, 
which  was  also  tlic  more  daiip-erous,  and  one  after  another 
they   started    down    the    slope    which    led    to   the    col.       They 

181 


C^iaptcr  VI. 

proceeded  witli  tlidr  faces  turned  to  tlie  wall,  placing"  their 
feet  with  caution  in  the  wide  steps  whicli  Petigax  cut  in  the 
snow,  wliich  was  fortiniately  liartl  and  hore  them  well. 

The  col  is  a  narrow  stri})  of  ice  hetween  two  wide  crevasses 
[hciu/scJu'innJ)  :  tiiese  crevasses  pass  from  one  peak  to  another 
without  a  single  hridge.  It  was  impossihle  to  turn  to  the  right 
or  to  the  left  ;  tliev  could  onlv  u"o  straip'ht  forward  to  the  ice 
wall,    wliich   thev  could   harelv  make   out   through   the   mist. 

Where  tlu^  slope  commenced  to  hecome  steep  thev  ])ut  down 
their  rucksacks  and  other  mmecessarv  impedimenta,  and  Petigax 
set  to  work  again.  Tliev  soon  stood  nearly  vertically  one  ahove 
tlu^  other,  climhing  slowlv  hv  the  steep  steps  wdiich  Petigax  cut 
in  the  ice  wall,  showering  down  a  hail  of  snow  and  ice  upon  the 
others.  Below  them  the  wall  was  almost  immediatelv  swallowed 
up  ill  tlie  mist,  so  that  thev  seemed  suspended  over  a  hottondess 
ahvss. 

ill  this  wav  thev  I'eached  the  hottom  of  the  cornice  where 
the  pendant  icicles,  joining  the  upright  ice  needles,  formed 
a  colonnade  as  thick  as  the  trees  in  a  foi'est.  upon  which 
rested  the  heavv  snow-dome  whose  solidity  was  open  to  douht. 
The  etlect  seen  through  the  mist  A\as  strange  and  wend.  In 
their  insecure  position,  liol(hng  fist  to  the  steep  slo])e,  thev  had 
to  climh  around  the  ice  columns  to  reach  the  point  where  the 
cornice  jutted  out  from  the  ice  wall  in  order  to  find  a  passage. 
This  jjassage  thev  i'ouiid  in  a  cleft  of  the  cornice  which  formed 
a  narrow  \'ei'tical  gullv  some  si.\  feel  high.  (  )llier.  standing 
tiriiiK-  upon  a  wide  step,  ser\-ed  as  a  laddei-  i'or  Petigax,  who 
chinhed  on  his  shouldei's  and  then  upon  liis  lieaif  with  his  heavv 
nailed  Ixxjts,  and  stuck  his  ice-axe  liriiiK'  in  tlie  snow  ahove  the 
cornice.  In  this  wa\'  he  hoisteil  liiniself  on  to  the  t(»p.  It  was 
easv  enough  for   the   others   to    join    liiiii.      i'he   lidge    was    now 

ISl' 


EI>ENA    AM)    SA^'(»IA    I'KAlvS,    AS    SKKN    b'ltO.M    TIIK    SIANiJ.V    (M.ACIKR 


Peaks  of  the  Central  Group. 

vaii(|iii.shed.      Tn  a  few  iniiuites  H.ll.H.  .set  foot  upon  tlie  In^liest 
peak  of  Ruwenzori. 

They  emerged  from  the  mist  into  splendid  clear  sunligiit. 
At  their  feet  lay  a  sea  of  fog.  An  impenetrahle  layer  of  liglit 
ashy- white  cloud-drifts,  stretcliing  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach, 
was  drifting  rapidly  nortli-westward.  From  the  inmiense 
moving  surface  emerged  two  fixed  points,  two  puie  white  j)eaks 
sparkling  in  the  sun  with  their  myriad  snow  crystals.  These 
were  the  two  extreme  sunmiits  of  tlie  highest  peaks.  The 
Duke  of  the  Ahruzzi  named  these  sunnnits  Marglierita  and 
Alexandra  "  in  order  tliat,  under  the  auspices  of  tliese  two 
royal  ladies,  the  memory  of  tlie  two  nations  may  he  lianded 
down  to  posterity — of  Italy,  whose  name  was  tlie  first  to 
resound  on  these  snows  in  a  shout  of  victory,  and  of  England, 
which  in  its  maryellous  colonial  expansion  carries  civilization 
to  tlie  slopes  of  these  remote  mountains."*'' 

It  was  a  thrilling  moment  when  the  little  tricolour  tlag, 
given  by  H.M.  Queen  Marglierita  of  Savoy,  unfurled  to  the 
wind  and  sun  the  emliroidered  letters  of  its  insj)iring  motto 
"  Ai'disci  e  Spera  "  (Dare  and  Hope). 

The  wind  was  blowhig  up  rather  fresh  from  the  south-east 
with  a  temperature  of  23°"4F.  Calculations  from  the  observa- 
tions taken  p-ave  a  lieioht  of  1G,815  feet  for  Margherita  Peak, 
and  16,749  feet  for  Alexandra  Peak.  It  was  now  1I.:]0  a.m. 
They  had  taken  about  half  an  liour  to  o-et  down  fiom  the  tirst 
peak  to  the  col,  and  an  liour  and  a-half  to  climb  from  the  col  to 
Peak  Maro-herita.  These  hours  were  full  of  intense  excitement, 
owing  to  their  perpetual  fear  of  seeing  the  \\'ay  blocked  by 
some  insuperable  obstacle. 

Margherita  Peak  is  all  covered  with  snow,  and  not  a  single 
*  See  "  C4eographical  Journal,"  February,  1907,  p.  138. 

185 


Chapter  \L 

rock  comes  to  the  surface.  The  eastern  niul  ^^■estern  rid^'es 
seemed  to  offer  easy  routes  to  tlie  summit. 

Thev  remained  less  than  liaU*  an  li(»ur  on  the  peak.  Tliere 
was  no  hope  of  the  mists  (hsappearing  tliat  dav,  and  after 
tinishiui;'  the  l)ar()metric  and  thermometric  ohservations,  and 
enjoyhig  the  first  entliusiasm  of  victory,  they  began  to  feel  the 
penetratiui;'  cold  of  the  w  ind.  There  was  an  impressive  sense  of 
solitude  in  perching  u])on  this  narrow  snowy  ridge,  with  the 
whole  eartli  cut  off  fVoiii  tliem  hy  the  mist.  Glaciers,  precipices 
and  peaks,  valleys  ;nid  plains,  lakes  and  forests,  were  all  veiled 
by  the  dense  layer  of  fog,  intt-rposed  like  a  l)arrier  between  the 
burning  i-egions  of  Equatorial  Africa  and  the  eternal  Alpine 
sno\\s. 

They  re-descend('(l  the  ice  wall,  resumed  their  loads,  and 
retuined  to  Alexandra  Peak.  Bv  '2.20  p.m.  they  returned  to 
tlieir  tent.  A  few  hours  later  they  were  all  four  stricken 
witli  snow-blindness.  Thev  had  been  exposed  during  the  whole 
dav  to  the  dazzlino-  whiteness  of  tlie  foo-.  and  unable  to  make 
use  of  their  black  spectacles,  with  which  it  was  impossible  to 
see  anything  at  all.  They  s])ent  tlie  night  and  the  following  day 
in  tlie  tent.  l)atliing  their  swollen  and  weeping  eyes  with  tea. 

Oil  the  f  )llowing  day,  20th  of  June,  thev  were  all  much 
better,  so  earlv  in  the  nioniiiig  thev  started  from  the  tent  in  very 
fine  weathtM-.  and  returned  to  Alexandra  P(^ik  ])v  the  same  path 
which  thev  had  taken  two  (lavs  before.  Tlie  Duke  arrived  on 
the  to])  about  ".-"•O  a.m..  and  worked  for  a  long  time  at  measuring 
the  angles  of  the  ])eaks  and  the  salient  points  of  the  tham.  He 
set  out  ai-'aiii  at  *.).()  a.m.  I)rifts  of  f>e •^\('l•t.  now  beuhminir  to 
invade  the  scen<\  Thev  returned  to  the  high  glacier-plain 
and  set  forth  for  tlie  t\\<»  fme  rock  and  ice  j)eaks  which  stood 
at  its  southern   extremitv. 


Peaks  of  the  Central  Group. 

Half  ail  hour  latn-  they  attacked  tlic  iieaivr  of  tlit-  two, 
starting-  up  a  gully  oii  tlie  eastern  side.  About  half- way  up. 
where  it  was  steepest,  they   left    tlie  snow   to    cliiiih   on   to   the 


f:LP:XA   AND    SAVOIA    PEAKS    FltoM    THE    RIDCE   ABOVE   CAMP    IV 


rocks  to  the  left  of  the  gullv.  which  were  steep  and  not  easy, 
with  few  hand-holds  xerv  inconveniently  disposed.  Then  they 
came  Ijack  into  the  gullv,  and  followed  it  up  to  the  top,  where 
there  was  an  indentation  in  the  ridoe.  Throuo'h  this  thev 
traversed  the  west  side,  facing  the  Congo,  and  clinihing  up 
easier  rocks,  reached  the  smnniit.  Here  they  spent  an  hour  in 
contemplating  the  peaks  and  glacieis  w  hich  kept  appearing  and 

187 


Chapter  VI. 

disappearing  in   the  eoiitiimal   fonnatioii  and  (hssohition   of  tlie 
mists. 

Towards  twelve   o'clock   tliev    onct^   more   set   ont.   following- 
the  ridge  southward.      In   the   narrow  indentation  IjetweeiL  the 


CAMP    NKAK    SCOTT    Kl.l.lo'lS    I'ASS. 


two  points  there  is  a  sliarp  tooth  of  rock  with  a  pieci})ice  whicli 
falls  down  towards  thf  I-Jujukn  Valley.  'J'hey  skirted  this  easily 
over  tlie  snow  slopes  on  the  Coni;'o  side.      From   this   point,  first 

188 


Peaks  of  tlie  Central  Group. 

over  a  snowy  ridge  and  then  over  rocks,  they  readied  tlie  ice- 
cap which  terminates  the  second  peak. 

The  Duke  of  the  Al)ruzzi  gave  the  name  Elena  to  the  first 
of  these  two  peaks,  16,388  feet,  as  a  homage  to  our  gracious 
Queen,  and  the  name  of  Savoia  to  the  second,  16,339  feet. 
All  the  Wmv  princi|)al  peaks  of  the  central  group  liad  now 
heen  ascended.  Thev  could  see  the  camp  wliicli  tliey  liad  left 
that  verv  niornino-  almost  vertically  under  their  feet.  Thev 
could  even  hear  tlie  sliouts  of  the  rest  of  the  expedition,  wlio 
had  arrived  at   the  camp  from  Bujongolo  a  few  liours  Ijefore. 

Towards  2.o()  }).m.  they  hegan  the  descent,  not  returning 
on  their  steps.  l)ut  proceeding  southward  along  the  glacier  whicli 
covers  the  peak,  and  then  descending  the  eastern  rock  wall  as 
tar  as  a  wide  gully,  whicli  hrought  them  hack  to  the  glacier  a 
little  ahove  the  camp. 

A  few  minutes  later  the  Duke  was  met  with  great  rejoicing 
bv  his  companions,  and  the  wliole  expedition  was  now  once 
more  united. 

In  the  space  often  davs  H.R.H.  had  ascended  Kiyanja  and 
the  four  ice  peaks  of  tlie  principal  group  of  mountains,  had 
accomplished  an  extensive  triangulation,  and  identified  the 
position  and  distribution  of  the  several  peaks  in  relation  to  the 
chief  valleys. 

The  21st  of  June  was  given  up  to  rest.  The  camjj  was 
adorned  bv  clothes  drving  in  the  sun  on  the  taut  cords  of  the 
tents,  whicli  were  now  f  )ur  in  number.  The  guides  spent  the 
day  in  sleep.  'J'he  afternoon  was  misty  ;  higher  up  it  was 
snowing.  The  silence  of  the  mountains  reigned  around,  broken 
now  and  again  by  the  roaring  of  an  ice  avalanche  falling  into 
the  Bujuku  Valley.  The  different  members  of  the  expedition 
reported  what  they  had  done  during  the  last  days. 

189 


Chapter  XL 

On  the  lotli  of  June,  soon  after  the  Duke's  departure,  a 
party  of  porters  laden  witli  ])r()visions,  hidudino-  baskets  of  fowls 
and  a  few  sheep,  liad  arrived  at  Bujonoolo,  and  the  silent  and 
nearly  deserted  camp  liad  become  suddenly  full  of  noise. 

With  their  help,  on  the  16th  Sella  and  Roccati  set  out  in 

Stairs  Peak. 


>ll'-    l-l   Kil    I'l    SAVOIA    SKKN    FKOM     IIIK    sol  Til     KIlKiK    oF    KDWAKI.    I'KAK.* 

their  turn  for  tlic  watrrslicd  e(»l.  brin<'in<'-  mountain  eami) 
equipment  and  ])li()t(»i;i;n)liir  a])])aratus.  Tliey  pitched  tlieir 
tents  iimnediatelv  bcvond  tlic  c-ol  on  a  slonino-  rock  and  made 
a  shelter  of  tent  canvas  ibr  tlic  jKU'ters.  The  fo»'-  Avas  dense, 
the  wind  and  cold  biting. 


For  note,  .•<'■/'  following  page. 
190 


Peaks  of  the  Central  Group. 

On  the  followiiio-  day,  during  some  l)riet'  openings  in  the 
fog.  Sella  photographed  views  from  the  col  and  t'loin  a 
rock-point  on  the  ridge  near  the  camp.  The  very  same 
evening  the  Bakonjos,  ^vl^o  had  been  sent  back  by  the  Duke 
from    Camp    IV,    arrived    witli    Laurent     Petigax    and     B<»tta. 


Sella  Peak. 


AVeismaiiu  Peak. 


:mt.  luigi  ni  sanoia  skkx  fkom  the  soith  laixa-:  t>y  i;!iWAia>  pkak."^ 

Everything  was  frozen  and  covered  with  hoar  fio.st.  The 
natives  passed  the  night  around  a  big  fire,  wrapped  in  blankets 
and  cloaks  which  Sella  and  Roccati  gave  up  to  them.  The 
cold  was  intense,  and  a  thunderstorm  was  raging.  <Jn  the 
following  day,  June  18th,  Cagni,  who,  as  we  have  already  saitl, 

*  The  above  illustrHtions  complete  one  another  and  form  a  panorama. 

191 


Chapter  VI. 

liad  arrived  at    Bujono-old  on   tlie   KJtli,  and   Dr.    Cavalli  joined 
their  conu'ades  on   tlie  col. 

On  the  19tli,  ( Vigni  and  Cavalli  with  their  caravan  of  porters 
descended  toward  the  little  lakes  to  the  west  of  Kiyanja.  The 
morning'  was  clear,  and  the  view  was  open  to  the  westward  as 
tar  as  hevond  the  Sendiki  vallev  over  the  forests  of  the  Congo. 
Sella  and  Koccati,  accordinglv,  t\n-ned  their  steps  to  the 
nionntains  to  the  sonth  of  tlie  pass  witli  the  ])liotogTaphic 
apparatus. 

We  have  alreadv  said  tliat  this  is  an  important  group  of 
mountains  with  various  distinct  peaks,  hetween  which  are  small 
glaciers.  Tlie  weather,  however,  spoiled  rapidlv,  and  drifts 
of  vapour,  driven  hv  the  wind  from  the  east,  enveloped  the 
hiofher  ridi>:es.  Thev  took  advantao-e  of  hrlef  clearin&s  in  tlie 
mist  to  climh  th(^  noi'th-east  point  of  the  grouj),  which  they 
reached  after  three  Iiours  of  ascent,  partly  over  rocks  and  partly 
upon  the  easy  glacier  to  the  west.  They  remained  upon  this 
peak  until  foui-  in  the  afternoon,  and  were  several  times  beguiled 
by  apparent  meltings  of  the  fog  into  setting  up  the  photographic 
apparatus.  Night  surjDrised  them  on  their  way  down  into  the 
valley  to  rejoin  their  comrades.  They  lost  the  track  and 
wandered  about  u})on  the  steep  slope  in  the  forest  of  lobelia  and 
senecio,  among  the  dense  helicbrysum,  seeking  for  a  way  in  the 
darkness  intensified  by  the  mist,  and  slipping  at  every  step  in 
the  mud  and  on  the  damp  and  mossy  rocks.  At  last  their 
comrades  heard  their  shouts  and  sent  t^^'o  o-uides  to  meet  them 
with  a  lantern.  Thev  soon  reached  the  camp  near  the  lake, 
surrounded  by  the  tires  of  the  natives. 

( )n  the  following  day  they  all  reached  the  fourth  camp,  from 
which  they  were  able  to  descry  the  Duke's  party  on  the  sky 
line  on  the  summit  of  Savoia  Peak. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

FORMATIOX  AND  GeXERAL  FEATURES  OF  THE 

RuwENzoRc  Range. 

Ruvveiizori  and  the  "  Albertine  Depression " — lielatiou  to  the  Nile  Basin — 
Nomenclature  —  H.R.H.'s  Map  —  The  Six  Groups  of  Snow  Peaks  —  The 
Watershed — The  Distribution  of  the  Valleys — What  preceding  Explorers 
saw  of  the  Mountains — Confusion  of  Names  and  Topography — Altimetric 
Measurements — The  Geology  of  the  Range — The  Glaciers — Flora  and  Fauna. 


The  stoiy  of  the  exploration  of 
tlie  two  cliief  groups  of  peaks 
has  put  us  iu  possession  of 
sufficient  data  to  permit  of  our 
giving  at  tliis  point  a  systematic 
description  of  the  Ruwenzori 
range.  A  more  detailed  know- 
ledge of  the  distrihution  of  the 
groups  of  tlie  range  and  of  their 
position  with  respect  to  the 
valleys  will  lielp  to  render  the 
account  of  the  suhsecpieiit  work 
of  the  expedition  l)oth  quicker  and  easier. 

The  Ruwenzori  chain  is  distinp-uished  ])V  extremelv 
remarkable  orohydrographical  features.  Most  of  the  con- 
tinents   slope    gradually  from  the  summits    of  their  mountain 

193  o 


i 

Chapter  VII. 

ranges  down  to  tlielr  liigli  central  plateaux  and  thence  to 
the  coast  level.  In  Africa,  on  the  contrai-y,  Unwenzori 
rises  from  the  so-called  "  Albertine  Depression,"  a  low  district 
formino-  a  reo'ion  about  000  to  700  feet  below  the  average 
level  of  Ug:anda,  and  containinof  the  l)asins  of  Lake  Albert 
and  of  Lake  Albert  Edward  ^^•itb  its  northern  prolongation, 
Lake  Dwern    or  lliiisainba. 

The    whole    of  tliis    depression    forms    simply  a  portion    of 
the    western    "  rift."      The    "  rifts "    consist    of    two    gigantic 
trenches,     from    20    to    50     miles     in     width,    nmning    nearly 
parallel    to    one    another,    witli    an    interval    of    6°   longitude, 
and  cnttinp-  through   tlie    continent   from  Lake  Nvassa  north- 
ward.      The  easternmost  of  the  two  follows  the  oGth  meridian 
as  far    as    Lake    Rudolpli,   beyond    which    it    inclines    towards 
the    Ked    Sea.       The     western    rift    runs    between    the     29th 
and   30tli   meridian   and   comes  to  an   end  near   Gondokoro   in 
the  Upper  Nile  Valley.     Either  rift  includes  a  nearly  continuous 
chain  of  lakes  and  numerous  mountains  and  volcanic  cones  and 
craters.      Either    rift    is    divided    !)y    a    transversal   watershed 
into    two    separate    hydrographic    systems,    one    to    tlie    north, 
the  other  to  the  soutli.      In  the  case  of  the  eastern   rift   this 
I'idge     is    near    Lake     Naiwasha,    about     where    the     Uganda 
Kailway   traverses  the    depression.     In    the    western    rift    the 
watershed  is  formed  by  a  veritable  range  of  volcanic  moimtains 
of  which  some  are  still  active  at  tlie  present  time.      This  range 
divides    tlie    chain    of    lakes    into    two  distinct    systems.     The 
southern    system    includes    Lakes    Kivu    and    Tanganika ;     the 
northern  system,  Lakes  Albert  Edward  and  Albert. 

At  the  southern  extremity  of  the  Iiuwenzori  chain  the 
rift  bifurcates  :  one  branch  runs  to  the  east  of  the  chain 
and    terminates    at  the    foot  of   the   heights  which  enclose  the 

194 


Formation  and  General  Features  of  lluwenzori. 

l)asiii  of  Lake  Ruisaniba  to  the  uortli  and  upon  wliicli  are 
situated  Toro  and  Fort  Portal ;  the  other  branch  joasse's  to  tlie 
M-est  of  the  range  and  forms  the  Senihki  Valley  and  the  husiii 
of  Lake  Albert,  and  is  prolonged  for  several  huiuh-ed  miles 
by  the  upper  valley  of  the  Nile.  lluwenzori  is  thus  nearlv 
completely  surrounded  by  the  "■  Albertine  Depression,"  and  forms 
MJth  the  three  lakes  an  independent  hydrograpliic  svstem 
absolutely  distinct  from  that  of  Lake  Victoria. 

Thus  it  is  that  this  Kuwenzori  rano;e  slieds  the  waters  of 
all  its  slopes  east,  west,  north  and  south  into  one  and  tlie 
same  river  basin,  feeding  almost  unassisted  tlie  three  lakes 
and  the  Semliki,  which  together  form  the  south-western 
sources  of  the  Nile.  Fui'thermore,  lluwenzori  l)eing  without 
doubt  the  most  considerable  group  of  snowy  mountains  on 
the  African  continent,  and  situated  in  the  middle  of  tliat 
continent,  and  running  in  the  direction  of  its  main  axis, 
does  not  form  a  portion  of  its  main  watershed.  The  actual 
watershed  between  the  Congo  and  the  Nile  consists  of  a  line 
of  low  hills,  lying  at  a  short  distance  to  the  w^est  of  the 
Semliki,  and  masked  by  the  great  Congo  forest,  running 
northw^ard  along  Lake  Albert,  prolonged  south w^ard  in  tlie 
volcanic  chain  which  forms  the  dividino-  rido-e  of  the  rift, 
between  Lakes  Kivu  and  Albert  Edward,  and  finally  skirtino- 
the  eastern  shores  of  Lake  Kivu  and  of  Lake  Tanganika. 

The  Duke  of  the  Abruzzi  preserves  to  the  chain  the  name 
of  Ruwenzori,  given  to  it  by  its  first  discoverer,  Stanley,  and 
adopted  since  then  by  tlie  majority  of  geographers. 

Stanley  had  heard  the  natives  dwelling  to  the 
north  and  w^est  of  these  mountains  call  them  by  tlie 
names  Ruwenzori,  Ukonju,  Bugombowa,  Avuruka,  Avirika, 
Iluwenzuru-ru,     lluwenjura,    etc.        He    was    of    opinion     tiiat 

195  o  1' 


Chapter  VII. 

Ruwenzori  was  tlie  iianie  nicest  commonly  in  use  in  Bantu, 
and  that  it  was  to  Ix*  translated  as  "  King  of  the  Clouds,"' 
or  "  Kain-maker." 

Stuldmann  gathered  the  names  Ilu-nssoro  and  Ru-ndjuru 
from  the  Wanvoro  and  Wakonjo  natives.  In  tlieir  dialects 
Niuru  and  Nssoro  signify  rain,  Avliicli  confirms  Stanley's 
mterpretation  of  the  name  hut  with  a  considerable  change 
in  the  orthograpiiv.  David  also  wrote  Ku-nssoro  ;  he  also 
heard  the  highest  peaks  called  Kokora. 

Scott  Elliot  gives  Runsororo  as  the  native  name,  and 
says  that  he  lieard  from  many  stmrces  the  name  Kiriba, 
which  would   mean    "■  high   peak." 

According  to  A.  B.  Fisher,  tlie  natives  of  Uganda  have 
no  collective  name  to  indicate  the  entire  range,  but  only 
separate  names  for  the  individual  peaks.  He  gives,  however, 
the  names  Bwenzozi  and  Bwenseri,  which  he  interprets  as 
meaning  "  Mountain  of  Mountains  "  or  "  The  Mountain "  ^«r 
excellence,  or  as  "  Tlie  Mountain  off  there,"  indicating  direction. 
Birika  which  resembles  the  Yirika  of  Casati,  and  Avuruka 
and  the  other  variations  of  Stanley,  would  simply  mean 
"  snow." 

Sir  Harry  Jolinston  hciird  thr  siiowv  portion  of  the  chain 
called  Euchurru  by  the  Nyoro  natives  ;  as  Ansororo  (suom) 
in  Lukonjo  ;  wliile  among  the  Southern  Bakonjos  he  gathered 
the  name  Obweruka  ;  among  tlie  Banjoro,  Ebirika  ;  among 
the  Baamba,  to  tin-  nort1i-\ve.st  of  the  range,  Gusia  ;  among 
the   Baganda,  Gambaragara,  etc. 

In  so  great  an  uncertainty  as  to  the  nomenclature, 
Stanley  had  every  right  to  select  a  name,  and  even  if  his 
transcription  should  not  l)e  held  to  correspond  with  euphonic 
exactitude   to  the  native   word,  yet   it   might  be  best    to   keep 

1  *.»(•) 


Formation  and  General  Features  of  Kuwenzori. 

it  as  it  stands,  evtMi  wore  it  only  out  of  respect  to  tlie  great 
explorer.  After  all.  had  Stanley  given  the  range  a  name 
which  had  nothhig  to  do  with  the  native  names,  had  lie 
called  it,  for  example,  "  Momitains  of  the  Moon,"'  or 
"  Mountains  of  Ptolemy,"  or  "  Victoria  Mountains,'  or  any 
similar  name,  all  geographers  would  have  accepted  his  choice 
without  discussion  and   without  any  attem})t   to  modity   it. 

These  brief  remarks  upon  the  name  of  liuweiizori  will 
suffice  to  indicate  the  impossibility  of  attempting  to  gather 
local  native  names  for  each  special  mountain  and  peak  of  tlie 
range.  So  far  similar  attempts  have  given  as  a  result  a 
separate  nomenclature  for  each  explorer.  It  is  extremely 
probable  that  the  natives  never  liad  individual,  specific 
names  for  each  peak,  all  tlie  more  so  if  we  reflect  that  in 
our  ow]i  P^uropean  Alps,  many  peaks  received  their  name 
only  after  tlie  advent  of  Alpine  climbing. 

It  was  clearly  indispensable  to  give  to  the  Ruwenzori  range 
some  sort  of  nomenclature,  which  is  the  only  means  of  translating 
into  current  language  the  topographical  survey  of  a  region. 

Out    of  natural  courtesy  towards  those  of  his  predecessors 

who    had    already    christened     some    of    the    mountains,    the 

Duke,    after    his    return    from    Africa,    interviewed   Sir    Harry 

Johnston  and  Dr.  Stuhlmann  upon  this  subject.      An  agreement 

was  easy,  because   both   of   these  great  authorities  shared    the 

opinions  of  the  Prince,  who  proposed  to  give  to  these  mountains 

the  names  of  tra\'ellers  long  associated  with  the  history  of  (Central 

African  exploration,  and  confining  to  single  peaks  those  names 

which  Stuhlmann  had  given  to  whole  portions  of  the  range. '^ 

*  Sir  Harry  Johnston  had  already  suggested  that  the  mountains  shouUl  be 
called  by  the  names  of  celel)rated  explorers  in  those  cases  where  no  precise  and 
specific  native  names  were  forthcoming.  {Sr>-  "The  Uganda  Protectorate," 
■2u(\  YA.,  London,  1904,  Vol.  I,  p.  159.) 

197 


Chapter  \^II. 

The  map  of  Ruweiizorl  is  the  chief  geographical  result  of 
the  Italian  Expedition.  This  map  was  drawn  u|)  from  data 
consistino"  of  numerous  ano-ular  measurements  carried  out  ])v 
the  Duke  from  the  different  peaks  hy  means  of  the  prismatic 
compass,  wliich  were  completed  by  the  mensuration  of  a  hase 
line  of  300  yards  taken  on  ground  near  to  Bujongolo,  by 
Commander  Cagni.  and  by  liim  connected  with  Kiyanja  (the 
Edward  Peak  of  Mt.  Baker),  and  with  a  rocky  peak  (Cagni 
Peak)  situated  to  tlie  nortli-east  of  Bujongolo,  from  tlie 
smnniit  of  which  Cao-ni  himself  took  all  the  anoies  of  the 
peaks   with   a  iield  tl)eodolite. 

Last  of  all.  tlie  calculation  of  the  longitude  and  latitude 
of  Bujongolo  permits  us  to  put  the  chain  in  its  place  on  the 
map  of  Africa.  "* 

The  observations  were  taken  in  unfavourable  atmospheric 
conditions,  nor  was  it  possible  in  all  cases  to  take  them  with 
an  instrument  of  precision  so  heavy,  delicate,  and  cumbersome  as 
the  theodolite.  In  spite  of  tliese  drawbacks  the  topographical 
sketch  may  be  considered  as  fairly  accurate,  because  it  is  based 
upon  numerous  observations  often  repeated  over  and  over  again 
at  the  same  points,  and  which  are  in  great  part  reciprocal, 
so  as  to  admit  of  mutual   verification  one  from  another. 

The  raiuj'e  of  Ruwenzori  is  situated  less  than  half  a  deoree 
north    of    the    equator,    and    about    30°    long.     E.    Greenwich. 

*  Atconling  to  the  map  aniicxoil  to  this  vohime,  Bujongoht  is  situated  at 
0°  20'  23"  hit.  X.,  and  30  1'  .'U"  long.  E.  Greenwich.  The  numheis  are 
a  few  seconds  ahove  those  given  on  the  map  which  accompanies  the  lecture 
of  H.R.H.  before  the  Italian  Geographical  Society,  and  pul)lished  in  Fasc.  2, 
Part  2,  Vol.  VTIl  of  the  "  Bollettino,"  because  it  was  only  later  that  he 
obtained  from  the  Astronomical  Observatory  of  (Greenwich  the  necessary  data 
f(^r  the  correction  of  the  huiar  tables  contained  in  the  ephemerids  in  order  to 
assign  its  exact  value  to  the  stiaight  ascent  of  the  moon. 

1  OS 


Formation  and  General  Features  of  Ruwenzori. 

The  general  direction  is  north  and  south,  and  the  shape  is  very 
nearly  that  of  a  written  G.  The  principal  groups  would 
compose  the  main  curve  of*  the  G,  while  one  group  only, 
tliat  farthest  south,  would  represent  the  tail  of  the  letter. 

The  range  consists  of  six  mountains,  i.e.,  groups  of  peaks 
with  glaciers,  divided  from  one  another  hy  cols  without  snow% 
and  therefore  quite  clearly  distinct  from  one  another.  The 
area  actually  covered  by  glaciers  is  a  little  more  than  seven 
miles  long  in  a  straight  line  from  south  to  north,  and  about 
four  miles  wide  from  east  to  west.  The  length  of  the  watershed 
ridge,  including  all  the  groups,  that  is  to  say,  the  entire  snowy 
range,  is  about    11   miles  long. 

The  chain  begins  in  the  north  with  two  groups,  two  parallel 
snow  ridges  running  nearly  due  north  and  soutli.  The  eastern- 
most of  these  was  named  by  the  Duke  Mt.  Gessi,  in  memory 
of  the  Italian  explorer  who  was  the  first  to  circumnavigate 
Lake  Albert.  The  western  group  was  named  Mt.  Emin,  after 
Emin  Pasha,  wlio  traversed  the  Semliki  Valley  for  the  first 
time  wdth  Stanley. 

Mt.  Emin  joins  Mt.  Speke,  which  bears  the  name  of  the 
first  discoverer  of  the  sources  of  the  Nile  in  Lake  Victoria. 
After  Mt.  Sj)eke  the  chain  turns  westward,  rises  to  the  highest 
group,  rightly  called  Mt.  Stanley,  and  sweeps  around  in  an 
eastward  curve  to  the  group  which  bears  the  name  of  Baker, 
the  discoverer  of  Lake  Albert,  who  liad  the  first  glimpse  of 
the  mountain  ranges  of  Ruwenzori. 

Last  of  all,  the  group  to  the  soutli  of  Mt.  Baker,  which 
runs  from  north-east  to  south-west,  had  l)een  called  by  H.R.H. 
Mt.  Thomson,  in  memory  of  J.  Thomson,  whose  work  in  Nigeria 
is  well  known.  But  after  his  return  to  Europe  the  Duke  was 
forced  to  yield   to   the   proposal    of  the   English   Geographical 

199 


Chapter  \\\. 

Society,  which  desired  tluit  liis  own  name  should  he  ni  some 
way  connected  witli  his  (hscoveries,  and  that  Mt.  Thomson 
should  he  called  ^It.  Lui^i  ch  Savoia.  The  name  of  Thomson 
has  heen  preserved  to  indicate  one  of  the  glaciers  of  the  same 

i;ronj). 


^^      ■  •■    -fc. 

^^ll^..,...<^:kJ>^,' 

m 

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m  ..^^^^ 

^^m^f^i  ^ 

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1 

^^^^T^^^r^ 

^^^V 

^■^  ' 

.^w)    /  -  ."^> 

MT.    STAMKV    l-i;ii.M 


111'.    i;iiN\Ai;ii    I'KAK    (»F    MT.     lUKKK. 


Mt.  Stanley  is  tlir  i^'i'onp  wliich  includes  the  highest 
peaks  of  all.  iiaiiielv,  Margherita  (1(),815  feet),  Alexandra 
(16,741J  feet),  P:iena  (l(i,388  feet),  and  Savoia  (16,339  feet). 
There  is  a  fifth  peak,  Moehius.  hetween  Elena  and  Alexandra, 
and  somewhat  lower  than  Savoia,  of  which  the  heio-jit  has 
not  })een  measured.  The  so-called  "  western-most  smnmit  "  of 
Mt,  Stanley,  mentioned  hy  Freshfield,*  and  visible  from  Butiti, 
*  See  "Oeog.  Jour.,''  L".»tli  .Mairli.  I'.toT,  j).  :V27. 
■200 


il 


to  X^ 


Formation  and  (leneral  Features  of  Hinvenzori. 

iippeariiig  conspicuously  to  the  right  of  Marghei'ltu  Peak 
on  the  panorama  taken  by  H.R.H.  from  Mt.  Gessi,  is  not  so 
much  a  real  peak  as  a  projecting  shoulder  upon  the  noitli-west 
ridge  of  Margherita  Peak  as  may  be  clearly  seen  on  the  plate 
facing  p.  178.  Next  in  height  comes  Mt.  Speke  with  its  two 
peaks,  Vittorio  Emanuele  (16,080  feet)  and  Johnston  (15,1)06 
feet).  Mt.  Baker  follows  with  Edward  Peak  (15,988  feet)  and 
Semper  Peak  (15,848  feet),  wliicli  were  the  first  climbed  l)v  the 


\01!TH-WEST   SHOULDER   OF   MARCiHERlTA   PEAK. 


Duke.  To  the  east  of  these  are  Wollaston  Peak  (15,286  feet), 
named  after  Dr.  Wollaston,  w^ho  was  the  first  to  ascend  it,  and 
Moore  Peak  (15,269  feet).  The  rocky  spur  on  the  ridge  at 
the  top  of  the  Mobuku  Glacier  has  preserved  the  name  of 
Grauer  wlio  was  the  first  to  discover  it. 

Of     the     two    northernmost    groups     Mt.     Emin      includes 


Chapter  ^11. 

Umberto  Peak  (15,797  feet)'"  and  Kraepeliii  Peak  (15,752). 
Mt.  Gessi  includes  lolanda  Peak  (15,647  feet)  and  Bottego  Peak 
(15,483  feet).  Last  of  all,  Mt.  Luigi  di  Savoia  includes  the  Peaks 
Weismann  (15, 291)  feet).  Sella  (15,286  feet)  and  Stairs  (15,059 
feet).  The  rocky  point,  opposite  Bujongolo  (14,826  feet),  is 
named  after  Cagni,  wlio  climbed  it  to  complete  from  it  the 
triangulation. 

The  principal  glaciers  have  taken  tlieir  names  from  the 
peaks  from  Avliicli  they  flow  down. 

The  five  passes  which  separate  the  six  groups  from  one  another 
have  been  named,  proceeding  from  north  to  south,  Koccati, 
Cavalli,  Stuhlmann,  Scott  Elliot  and  Freshfield.  They  are  all 
above  14,000  feet  in  height,  except  Stuhlmann's  Col  between 
the  two  2)rinci})al  grou])s,  Speke  and  Stanley,  whicli  is  only 
13,757  feet  high. 

Tlie  Duke  of  the  Abruzzi  has  left  the  native  names  used  by 

the  Bakonjo  t(>  tlie  valleys,  lakes,  rivers  and  torrents.      When, 

however,   tlie    names    were    numerous,  he   took   no    account    of 

them  ;  and  lie  also  left  without  name  those  valleys,  lakes  and 

torrents   oJi   the  western    slopes  which   were    unknown    to    the 

Bakonjo.      It    remains  for    some   future  explorer  to  gather  the 

native  names  from  the  western  tribes. 

*  Umberto  Peak  is  15,797  feet  high  and  not  15,907  as  was  printed  by 
error  in  the  map  leprocbiccd  from  that  of  the  Italian  Expedition  by  the  Royal 
Geographical  Society,  and  published  with  H.ll.H.'s  London  lecture  in  the 
"Geographical  Journal  "  for  February,  1907.  The  same  map  also  assigns  to 
Moebius  Peak  of  Stanley  an  altitude  of  16,214  feet.  This  altitude  is 
merely  approximate,  Ijecause  no  barometrical  observation  was  taken  on 
Moebius  Peak.  Also  the  altitude  of  Weismann  Peak  is  15,299  feet  and  not 
15,273  feet.  1  take  this  oppoitunit^'  to  note  that  the  highest  peak  of 
Mt.  Baker  and  the  second  peak  of  Mt.  Stanley  are  to  be  called  simpl}' 
Edward  Peak  and  Alexandra  Peak,  not  King  Edward  and  Queen  Alexandra ; 
by  analogy  with  the  names  Margherita,  Yittorio  Emanuele,  and  Elena  Peaks, 
and   also    with  the    nomenclature  adopted    in   the  neiglil)Ouring  regions,  e.g., 

Lake   Victoria,  Lake  Albert,  etc. 

202 


Topographical    Skebch 

oF  theVailey  System  of  bhe 
RUWEINZORI      RANGE 


V. 


ale  1278200  Uss„u 


■if 


/\ 


^.J!^..<C 


-^^^' 


0        I 


^ 


Formation  and  (icneral  P^eatures  of"  lluwenzori. 

The  watei'slit'd  Viiw  starting  fruiu  tlie  peak  t(»  the  extreme 
south,  the  WeisniaiHi,  runs  eastward  along  Mt.  Luigi  di  Savoia, 
then  nortlnvards  over  Freslifield's  Col  and  along  Edward  Peak 
and  Semper  Peak  of  Mt.  Baker.  From  this  point,  making 
a  wide  lialf-circle,  It  runs  along  the  high  ridge  of  tlie  Bujuku 
Valley  over  Scott  Elliot's  Col,  over  the  peaks  of  Mt.  Stanley 
and  Stulilmann's  (^ol  as  far  as  Vittorio  Emanuele  Peak,  then 
descends  along  tlie  north-east  ridge  of  Mt.  Speke  to  Cavalli's 
Col,  traverses  tlie  summit  of  the  two  parallel  groups,  Emin  and 
Gessi,  crossino-  lioccati's  Col  hetw^een  them.  From  lolanda 
Peak  of  Mt.  Gessi  it  follows  a  south-easterly  ridge  to  the 
group  of  the  Portal  Peaks,  whence  it  tm-ns  north-east  again. 

The  most  important  river  hasin  to  the  east  of  the  chain 
is  that  of  the  Bujuku  Valley,  which  is  surrounded  hy  five 
mountain  git)ups  and  is  fed  by  the  greater  glaciers  of  Mt. 
Stanley,  Mt.  Speke,  and  Mt.  Gessi.  The  Upper  Mobuku 
Vallev,  on  the  other  hand,  receives  only  the  waters  of  the 
Baker  glaciers  and  of  a  few  little  glaciers  on  the  eastern  side 
of  Mt.  Luigi  di  Savoia  through  the  Mahoma  torrent.  Hence 
the  ]\Iobuku  River  is  much  smaller  than  the  Bujuku  Biver, 
and  is  in  reality  a  mere  affluent  of  it.  It  would,  therefore,  be 
more  geographically  correct  to  name  the  entire  valley  Bujuku, 
even  if  only  because  the  two  greater  mountauis  stand  at  its 
head  as  well  as  Stuhlmann's  Col,  which  is  the  deepest 
depression  of  tlie  whole  range  and  lower  than  Freshfield's 
Col.  The  name  Mobuku,  however,  as  applied  to  both  river 
and  valley,  has  been  so  widely  spread  by  preceding  explorers 
that  H.K.H.  did  not  tliink  fit  to  change  it,  in  order  to 
avoid  confusion   in  the  nomenclature. 

The  atmosphere  around  Buwenzori  is  so  misty  and  so 
lacking  in   transparency,  even  in   fine   weather,  that   the  Duke 

203 


Chapter  ML 

never  succeeded  in  getting  from  the  peaks  a  clear  view  of  the 
valleys  to  the  west  of  the  chain  so  as  to  ohtain  an  acc\n-ate 
idea  of  their  direction  and  distrihntioii.  As  far  as  he  was 
able  to  olxserve,  he  formed  tlie  opinion  that  tlie  four  valleys 
luiiiiing  down  from  the  Cols  Freshfield,  Scott  Elliot,  Stnhlmann, 
and  Cavalli  (marked  A,  B,  C,  D  on  tlie  map)  joined  together 
to  form  the  Butagn  Valley,  which  Avould  consecpiently 
collect  the  waters  of  tlie  western  glaciers  of  Mts.  Luigi  di 
Savoia,  Baker,  and  Stanley,  and  a  great  part  of  those  of  the 
Speke  Glacier  and  of  the  glaciers  of  Mt.  Emin.  Tims  this 
would  be  the  most  important  of  the  western  vallevs.  It  is 
jjrobable  that  Mt.  Emin  and  Mt.  Gessi  contrilmte  to  feed 
the  Bussirubi  and  tlie  llname  Bivers  (E  and  F  of  tlie  map), 
which,  like  the  Butagu,  are  affluents  of  the  Semliki,  and  that 
the  southern  valley,  Nyamwamha,  runs  up  as  far  as  the  glaciers 
of  Mt.  Luigi  di  Savoia.  The  torrents  Yeria  and  Wimi 
would  not  be  fed  by  glaciers  at   all. 

With  the  help  of  our  precise  knowledge  of  the  range  we 
may  now  attempt  to  collate  with  one  another,  and  with  the 
data  furnished  by  H.B.H.,  the  discoveries  and  descriptions 
of  the  preceding  explorers. 

Of  all  these  predecessors,  Stanley  was  the  one  who  had 
the  most  frequent  opportunities  of  seeing  either  the  single  peaks 
or  the  range  from  the  north,  the  west,  and  the  south.  He  left, 
however,  vague  records  onlv,  and  clearlv  the  realitv  of  the 
picture  has  been  too  greatly  altered  l)v  the  illustrator  of  his 
hook  to  make  it  possible  to  determine  tlie  individual  momitains 
in  his  illustrations.  At  the  verv  most  it  is  possible  to  rec(>gnize 
Margherita  Peak  and  Mt.  Speke  confused  in  a  single  group 
in  the  view  taken  fi-om  Kavalli  to  the  north  of  the  mountains. 
and  reproduced  on  p.  '2'M)  of  "  In  I)arkest  Africa,'"'  Vol.  11. 

•JO  I 


Format  ion  and   (itMieral   Features  of  IJuwenzori. 

The  nKniiitain  of  wliicli  Stairs  cauglit  a  glimpse  ou  liis  wav 
ujt  a  vallev  to  the  north-west  of  the  chain,  perhaps  the 
Kussiriil)!  Yallev.  was  prohahly  Mt.  Emiii.  Tliis  mountain  is 
ilhistrated  on  p.  25(5  of  the  ahove-mentioned  vohnne,  and 
this  view,  taken  from  the  west,  corresponds  fairly  in  appearance 
to  Mt.  Emin  from  the  east  in  the  photographic  panorama  taken 
hv  H.R.H.  from  the  lolanda  Peak  of  Mt.  Gessi.  [See 
illustration,  p.   241.) 

As  to  tlie  ''  Saddle  Peak"  of  Stanley,  it  certainl}"  corresponds 
to  the  two  peaks  Alexandra  and  Margherita,  which  stand  in 
a  line  runnino-  north-east  to  south-west.  To  any  one  observino- 
them  as  Stanley  did  from  the  north-west  or  soutli-east,  they 
would  appear  as  twin  peaks,  whereas  one  would  be  hidden  l)y 
tlie  other  if  tlie  observer  stood  in  a  line  with  them. 

More  exact  accounts  of  the  chain  have  been  p-iven  to  us  by 
Stuhlmann,  The  more  or  less  schematic  illustration  of  the 
chain,  as  seen  from  the  southern  part  of  the  Semliki  Valley  to 
the  south-west  of  the  great  peaks,  and  reproduced  on  p.  281 
of  Stuhlmann's  book,*  can  easily  be  identified  on  the  map  of 
H.Pi.H.  There  is  no  doul)t  that  tlie  central  and  greatest 
mountain  group  given  by  Stuhlmann  under  tlie  name  "  Semper" 
is  to  be  identified  with  the  Mt.  Stanley  ;  hence,  the  two  moun- 
tains to  its  right,  designated  by  Stuhlmann  with  the  names 
Weismann  and  Moebius,  cannot  be  anything  but  Mt.  Baker  and 
Mt.  Luip'i  di  Savoia.  As  to  the  mountain  called  by  Stuhlmann 
Kraepelin,  whose  summits  are  barely  visible  at  a  consideral)le 
distance  from  Semper,  this  must  be  Mt.  Emin.  From 
Stuhlmann's  point  of  observation,  Mt.  Speke  must  liave  been 
hidden  by  Mt.  Stanley,  or  only  partly  visible,  and  easily  con- 
founded with  it.  This  fact,  namely,  the  omission  of  Mt.  Speke 
*  Dr.  F.  Stuhlmann,  "Mit  Emin  Pasha  ins  Herz  von  Africa,"  Berh'n,  1894. 

205 


Cliai)ter  VII. 

from  Stulilniaiiu's  diagram,  became  later  on,  as  we  shall  see,  one 
of  the  chief  causes  of  confusion  in  the  attempt  to  collate  the 
view  of  tlie  chain  from  tlie  east  with  Stuhlmanirs  description 
of  the  cliain  as  seen  from  the  west. 


w-^ 

',;,>--'    .    „.„     ■  . 

Jftmr^   ■  — .:  ■'.    ,  '"'■f  >■  ' -J*--  . 

'^^^^'^ff 

- 

MT.    .STANLEY    JKoM    THE    WE.ST,    EKU.M    A    J'lK  )Ti »( iltA  I'l  I     lAKHX    IN    THE 
HUTAGU    VALLEY    ]!Y   DR.    F.    STUHL^rANN. 

By  the  kind  permission  of  Dr.  Stulihnann  and  his  ])nl)lisliers 
we  are  able  to  reproduce  the  very  interesting  and  tine  engraving 
which  faces  p.  188  of  his  l)ook,  and  was  made  from  a  plioto- 
graph  which  he  took  from  the  highest  point  reached  l)y  him  in 
the  Butami  Valley,  a  liill  13.32()  feet  above  the  sea,  and 
separated  from  the  glaciers  by  a  depression  containing  a  little 
lake.  In  the  sequel,  we  shall  hear  of  the  excursion  made  by 
Sella  on  the  glaciers  of  the  western  slope,  descending  from  the 
col  ill  the  centre  of  Mt.  Stanley  between  Moebius  Peak  and 
Alexandra  Peak.      In  the  course  of  this  excursion   he  was  able 


1206 


Formation  and  General  Features  of  Tiinvenzori. 

to  take  several  photographs  from  the  western  slopes,  which, 
when  compared  with  this  plate  of  Stuhlmann's  l)ook,  leave  no 
doubt  as  to  its  representing  the  western  slopes  of*  Mt.  Stanley. 
It  shows,  proceeding  from  left  to  right,  the  long  sno\A'y  ridge  wliicli 
forms  the  characteristic  north-western  shoulder  of  Maro-herita 
Peak,  which  Is  hidden  behind  the  \ast  cone  of  Alexandra 
Peak,      Vertically   l)elow   the   ridi>'e  to  the    rio-jit  of  Alexandia 


WESTERN    SIDE    OF   ALEXANDRA    I'HAK. 


Peak,  at  the  foot  of  the  glacier,  may  be  seen  a  sharp,  rocky 
point,  which  was  climbed  by  Sella  in  tlie  course  of  liis 
photographic  expedition.     Alexandra  Peak  is  succeeded  in  this 

207 


Chapter  VII. 

plate  by  Moebius  Peak,  then  Eleiui  Peak  and  Savoia  Peak,  witli 
tlie  little  tooth  of  rock  between  them,  which  is  also  clearly 
visible  t'loni   tlie  east. 

With  relation  to  the  })oint  readied  by  Stuhlmaun,  and  from 
wbicli  tliis  |)hot()L;ra|)b  was  taken,  Brix  Forster,  in  an  article* 
in  which  he  attempts  to  collate  the  preceding  explorations  of 
Piuwenzori  with  that  of  the  Duke  of  the  Abruzzi,  is  of  opinion 
that  this  point  was  near  the  little  lakes  to  the  west  of  Mt.  Baker, 
in  sight  of  the  valley  traversed  by  the  Italian  expedition  to 
climb  to  Scott  Elliot's  Col.     A  mere  glance  at  the  map  makes  it 


MOEBIUS    PEAK    Flt(  »M    THE   WEST. 

(jiiite  plain  tliat  it  was  impossible  that  from  any  point  situated 
so  far  to  the  south  of  Mt.  Stanley  the  peaks  should  appear 
as  they  do  in  Stuhlmann's  photograph.  ( )n  the  other  hand, 
it  is  prol)able  that  the  little  lake  Kigessi-Kissongo,  which 
Stulilmann  saw  between  himself  and  the  mountains  was  t)ne 
of  those  drawn  in  the  map  to  the  west  of  Mt.  Stanley  under 
♦  See  in  "Globus,"  Vol.  XCI,  1907,  p.  345. 
208 


Formation  and  General  Features  of  Euwenzori. 

Point  Moebius.  In  fact,  looking  from  tliis  point  towards  the 
chain,  Alexandra  Peak  ninst  have  nearly  entirely  covered 
Margherita  Peak,  while  the  Moebius,  Elena  and  Savoia  Peaks 
must  have  been  visible  nearly  straigiit  in  front,  as  they  ai-e 
shown  in  the  plate.  Brix  Forster's  article  contains  other 
inaccuracies.  From  the  upper  valley  of  Butagu,  Stuhlmann 
saw  no  other  mountains  l^eyond  the  two  photographed  by  him, 
nor  is  there  any  mention  in  his  book  of  a  third  mountain  beyond, 
of  which  he  had  caught   any  glimpse  in  the  opening  between 


THE   FOOT   OF   THE   GLACIERS   FLOWING   WEST   OF   ALEXANDKA   AND 
MOEBIUS    PEAKS. 


the  two.  The  interpretation  of  Moore's  ascent  is  entirely 
erroneous,  nor  did  Moore  see  from  the  ridge  the  other  mountain 
groups,  as  the  author  states.  The  valley  ascended  by  David 
could  not  be  the  Russurubi,  for  the  Russurubi  does  not  lead  to 
any  col  near  16,000  feet.  Finally,  Brix  Forster  is  mistaken 
in  writing  that  Dr.  Wollaston  ascended  the  Semper  Peak  of 
Mt.  Baker.  He  also  states  in  his  article  that  the  highest 
peaks  of  Ruwenzori  are  rocky. 

209  1' 


Chapter  VII. 

We  are  able  also  to  reproduce  Stuhlmann's  photograph 
from  tlie  same  point  of  another  mountain  which  he  believed 
to  be  adjacent  to,  and  to  the  south  of  Mt.  Stanley,  the 
mountain  which  he  had  called  Weismann  and  which,  as  we 
have     seen,     corresponds    to     Mt.     Baker.        In    reality,     this 


MOUNT    LUIGI   DI    SAVOIA    SEEX    FROM   THE    UPPER   BUTAGU   VALLEY. 
(After  the photogritphhy  Dr.  F.  Stuhlmann.) 

mountain  was  completely  hidden  from  his  sight  by  the  southern 
spurs  of  Mt.  Stanley,  and  the  moimtain  in  his  plate  must  be 
the  Mt.  Luigi  di  Savoia,  the  very  same  which  he  had  called 
Moebius. 

The  first  description  of  the  appearance  of  the  mountains 
from  the  east  is  given  by  Moore,  who  seems  to  have  been  the 
only  one  before  H.R.H.  to  have  seen  the  mountains  from  the 
Wimi  Valley.  Moore  had,  however,  a  far  better  opportunity 
for  observation  because,  being  obliged  to  descend  towards  the 

210 


Formation  and  General  Features  of  Ruwenzori. 

plain,  and  to  go  further  from  the  nioinitains  to  seek  for  a  ford 
across  the  River  Wimi,  which  was  swollen,  he  was  able  to 
see  the  entire  chain,  not  only  the  single  mountains.  This 
view  is  reproduced  in  a  plate  in  colours  placed  opposite 
the  frontispiece  of  his  book.*  This  plate  contains  in  the 
middle,  and  plainly  recognizable,  Mt.  Stanley  and  Mt.  Speke. 
To  their  left  stretches  a  snowy  ridge  of  uncertain  outline  and 
long  enough  to  comprise  the  peaks  of  Mt.  Baker  and  those  of 
Mt.  Luigi  di  Savoia.  To  the  right,  separated  from  Mt.  Speke 
by  a  wide  interval,  is  another  snow  peak,  Mt.   Gessi. 

On  reaching  the  Mobuku  Valley  and  ascending  it  as  far  as 


SAVOIA   PEAK   TAKEN   FROM   ALEXANDRA    PEAK;   MT.    LUIGI    DI   SAVOIA 
IN   THE    BACKGROUND. 


Bujongolo,  where  he  established  his  first  camp,  Moore  fell  into 
an  error,  which  was  subsequently  shared  by  all  his  successors 
from  Sir  Harry  Johnston  to  Dr.  WoUaston,  and  Mhicli  became 
the  chief  cause  of  the  uncertainty  which  reigned  up  to  the 
Duke's  exploration  as  to  the  position  of  the  peaks.  This  error 
*  J.  E.  S.  Moore,  "To  the  xMountains  of  the  Moon,"  London,  1901. 

211  P  2 


Chapter  VII. 

consisted  in  his  behet  that  at  this  point  in  the  Mobiiku  Valley 
he  was  in  the  midst  of  the  highest  mountains  of  the  chain 
which  he  had  already  seen  from  the  plain  at  the  foot  of  the 
Wimi  Valley,  and  he  still  further  increased  the  confusion  by 
attempting  to  identify  them  with  those  described  and  identified 
by  Stuhlmann  from  tlie  ^\•estern  slope. 

It  is  not  easy  to  make  out  Moore's  ascent.  Upon  an 
attentive  perusal  of  his  narrative,  collated  with  H.R.H.'s 
map,  the  reader  is  led  to  suppose  that  on  reaching  the  head 
of  the  Mobuku  Valley  he  started  to  ascend  to  the  left  (that  is 
to  say,  on  the  right  slope  of  the  valley)  initil  he  reached  the 
glacier  which  he  calls  the  central  glacier,  in  other  words  the 
Baker's  Glacier  of  H.R.H.'s  map,*  by  which  glacier  he  would 
reach  the  ridge  at  a  point  between  Semper  Peak  and  Grauer's 
Kock.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  however,  in  order  to  reach  the 
Baker  Glacier  fi-om  the  valley  it  would  be  necessary  to  climb 
rocks  and  gullies  presenting  such  exceptional  difficulties  as  to 
be  surmountable  only  by  a  party  of  ti-ained  mountaineers — 
certainly  not  by  a  single  white  man  accompanied  by  ]iative 
porters.  It  is  more  probable  that  Moore  began  to  climb  the 
right  slope  of  the  valley  at  an  earlier  point.  In  this  way 
he  would  have  reached  the  Edward  Glacier  and  ascended  it  to 
the  southern  ridge  of  the  Edward  Peak. 

Sir  Harry  Johnston  attempted  to  reconstruct  the  chain  as 
seen  from  a  hypothetical  point  to  its  east,  basing  his  conception 
upon  the  observations  taken  by  preceding  explorers.  The 
representation  thus  obtained  l)y  liim  is  much  further  from 
the  truth  than  that  of  Stuhlmann  and  of  Moore.     From  the 


*  The  glacier  is  clearly  shown  in  one  of  Moore's  ilhistrations  (p.  246),  and 
also  in  a  plate  of  Sir  Harry  Johnston's,  "  The  I'ganda  Protectorate,"  2nd  Ed., 
London,  1904,  Vol.  I,  p.  17t<. 

212 


_,  S  <  r=^  ^^  > 

<       :o'  t>  X  cJ  ~" 


r  g 


O  r=. 


r      ^     S  X  X  H 

S     ^"     -N  cc"  -;  o' 


2     ^^^ 


f=H   X  >C 


Formation  and  General  Features  of  Ruwenzori. 

Lower  Mobiiku  Valley  lie  saw  a  great  snowy  mountain  which 
he  named  Duwoni.  He  gives  a  fine  illustration  of  this  moun- 
tain on  p.  158  of  his  book.  There  is  no  doubt  that  tliis 
is  to  be  identified  with  Mt.  Speke.  On  reaching  Bujongolo 
he  believed  himself  to  have  reached  the  foot  of  this  same 
Duwoni,  whereas  in  reality  he  had  been  going  further  from 
it  from  Nakitawa  onward.  He  furthermore  believed  that 
Mt.  Kiyanja  (Baker)  was  Mt.  Semper  of  Stuhlmann,  and  that 
Duwoni  (Speke)  was  Peak  Weismann. 

Mr.  Freshfield,  as  well  as  the  Duke,  was  able  to  have  a 
complete  view  of  the  range  from  Butiti,  on  the  way  between 
Entebbe  and  Fort  Portal.  He  enumerates  ''•  the  mountains  of 
E-uwenzori  as  follows,  from  left  to  right  : — 1st,  a  massive  rocky 
group  with  patches  of  snow,  which  he  calls  South  Peak,  and 
which  is  Mt.  Luigi  di  Savoia  ;  2nd,  a  wide  col,  which  is  the 
col  above  the  Mobuku  Valley  which  now  bears  his  name  ;  3rd, 
a  bold  peak  of  rock  and  glacier,  the  Kiyanja  of  Johnston ; 
4th,  the  undulating  ridge  covered  with  glacier  which  from 
this  last  group  leads  to  the  highest  snow  peak,  and  which 
Mr.  Freshfield  takes  to  be  the  Duwoni  of  Johnston,  but  which 
is  in  reality  Margherita  Peak.  Duwoni  or  Speke,  as  a  matter 
of  fact,  does  not  appear  as  an  isolated  mountain  when  seen 
from  Butiti,  but  seems  to  form  a  single  group  with  Mt.  Stanley. 
It  may  be  of  use  to  the  reader  at  this  point  to  compare 
Mr.  Freshfield's  description  with  the  outline  of  the  range  as 
seen  from  Butiti,  taken  from  Sella's  tele-photograph,  and  with 
the  addition  of  the  new  names.  On  reachinof  the  head  of  the 
Mobuku  Valley,  Mr.  Freshfield  would  appear  to  have  fallen  into 
the    same   error   as   his   predecessors,    for   he    describes    it    as 

*  D.  W.  Freshfield,  'A  note  on  the  Ruwenzori  Group,'  "  The  Geographical 
Journal,"  May,  1906,  Vol.  XXVII,  p.  4f<l. 

215 


Chapter  VII. 

"  enclosed  in  a  cirque  of  cliffs  capped  by  glaciers,  wliicli  flow 
from  a  neve  rising  in  comparatively  gentle  slopes  to  an  icy 
ridge  connecting  two  rock  peaks,  Kiyanja  and  Johnston's 
Duwoni.'"* 

Mr.  Freshfield's  poor  opinion  of  the  glaciers  and  of  the 
general  importance  of  the  chain  is  a  natural  result  of  his  belief 
that  "  the  only  glacier  basin  of  any  size  east  of  the  chain  is  that 
of  Mobuku."t 

It  now  remains  for  us  to  consider  the  ascents  performed  by 
the  members  of  the  British  Museum  Expedition,  and  more 
especially  by  the  mountaineer,  A.  F.  WoUaston.  Lake  Bujuku 
seems  to  have  been  seen  for  the  first  time  by  Woosnam  in  the 
excursion  which  he  made  alone  to  the  ridge  overhanging  the 
Mobuku  Glacier,  Mr.  Woosnam,  as  well  as  Mr.  Wollaston, 
believed,  however,  with  Dr.  Grauer,  that  this  was  the  water- 
shed. Hence  Mr.  Wollaston  naturally  concluded  that  the 
mountains  which  he  had  caught  a  glimpse  of  beyond  it, 
Mt.  Stanley  and  Mt.  Speke,  were  on  the  western  slopes 
of  the  chain.  It  was  only  later,  after  meeting  H.R.H.  at 
Fort  Portal,  that  Mr.  Wollaston,  while  crossing  the  foot  of  the 
Mobuku  Valley,  and  seeing  the  outline  of  the  peaks  to  the 
west,  finally  understood  tliat  their  eastern  slopes  do  really 
form  part  of  the  Uganda  side  of  the  range. 

I  must  here  mention  tlie  interesting  article  of  Lieutenant 
T.  T.  Behrens,;|;  who  has  attempted  to  reconstruct  the  chain  of 
Ruwenzori  with  the  whole  illustrative  and  descriptive  material 
from  Stanley  to  Wollaston  which  existed  in  July,  1906, 
including  the   observations  taken  by  the  author  during  nine 

*  D.  W.  Frcshfield,  in  "Alpine  Journal,"  Aui^ust,  1906,  p.  183. 
t  D.  W.  Frcshfield,  in  "Alpine  Jouinul,"  August,  190G,  p.  i>01. 
{  Lieutenant    T.  T.   Behrens,    '  The  Snow    renks    of    liuwenzori,'    "  The 
(ieographicHl  Journal,"  July,  1906,  Vol.  XXYIII,  p.  4.3. 

i'16 


Formation  and  General  Features  of  Iiuwenzori. 

months  of  residence  in  the  rejj,ions  close  to  the  chain  durinu-  tlie 
work  of  the  An o-lo- German  Boimdarv  Commission.  Behren's 
article  contains  in  clear  and  succinct  sliape  the  net  result  of  all 
that  was  known  about  Ruwenzori  previous  to  tlie  Italian 
Expedition. 

The  followino:  table,  in  wlilch  the  names  i^iven  to  the 
mouQtains  by  dirterent  travellers  are  placed  in  order  with 
reference  to  those  marked  upon  the  Italian  map,  illustrates  the 
confusion  which  had  arisen  from  mistaken  identification  of  peaks 
from  various  points  of  observation.  This  table  will  make  it 
easier  to  compare  the  accounts  of  all  the  previous  journeys.  It 
will  also  show  that  the  only  way  to  put  order  and  clearness 
into  the  nomenclature  was  to  give  up  the  old  names  and  start 
afresh  with  a  difierent  plan. 

As  regards  the  altitude  of  the  highest  point  as  determined 
by  the  Duke  at  16,815  feet,  it  would  be  idle  now  to  gather 
together  the  opinions  of  preceding  explorers  which  were  not 
based  upon  any  instrumental  observation  ;  all  the  more  so  that 
only  one  of  them,  Stuhlmann,  really  had  a  near  sight  of  the 
highest  peaks,  or  at  least  of  Alexandra  Peak.  The  others 
all  judged  of  the  height  of  the  peaks  around  the  head  of  the 
Mobuku  Valley,  and  never  even  saw  the  highest  ones,  or 
only  from  the  far-off  plains  of  the  surromiding  country. 

The  Duke  took  for  the  first  base  of  his  calculations  the 
meteorological  station  of  Entebbe,  whose  height  was  already 
known  (3,861  feet).  Fort  Portal  was  then  connected  with 
Entebbe  by  a  series  of  observations  carried  out  for  two  whole 
months  at  the  two  stations,  and  ffivinor  as  a  result  for  Fort  Portal 
an  altitude  of  1,165  feet  above  Entebbe,  or  5,026  feet  above  the 
sea-level.  Finally,  Bujongolo  was  connected  with  Fort  Portal 
by  barometrical  observations  taken  during  a  period  of  alx>ut  a 

217 


Chapter  Yll. 


The  Nomenclature  of  Ruwenzori  and  the 


H.R.H.   the    Duke    of 
the  Abruzzi, 


Mt.  Luigi  di  Savoia. 


F.  Stuhhnann. 


From  Lungvve         From  the 
(Seniliki).         Butagu  Valley. 


Moebius 


Weismann  or 
Ngemwimbi. 


J.  E.  S.  Moore. 


From  the  From 

Eastern  Plain.        Bujongolo. 


f  Edward  and  Sem- 
I      per  Peaks. 


I  Weismann  or 
^  Ngemwimbi. 


Wollaston  and 

Moore  Peaks.         J 


Ingoniwiinbi. 


Moebius. 


Kanjan- 

gogwe. 


f  Savoia  and   Elena 
Peaks. 


Ml 


^    I  Alexandra         and 
L  Margherita  Peaks, 


Semper 
or  Kanjan- 


Semper 

or  Kanjan- 

gungwe. 


Ingoimviuibi. 


Mt.  Speke. 


Kangan- 


Mt.  Emiu. 


Kraepelin. 


Mt.  Gessi. 


Saddle  Moun- 
tain (of 
Stanley). 


21S 


Formation  and  General  Features  of  Ruwenzori. 


Errors  in  the  Identification  of  the  Peaks. 


Sir  Hariy  Johnston. 

D.  W.  Freshheld. 

A.  F.  Wollaston. 

Figurative 
Scheme. 

From  the 
Mobuku  Valley. 

From  Butiti. 

From  Bujongolo. 

From  Bujongolo. 

South  Peak. 

1 

Kiyanja. 

1 

1 

>     Kiyanja. 

Kiyanja. 

Kiyanja. 

Kiyanja 
)■    (Sempei-  of 
Stuhhuann). 

Duwoni 
(from  Bujongolo). 

Duwoni. 

Duwoni. 

1 

Duwoni 

(Semper  of 
Stuhlmann). 

Duwoni 

(Weismann  of 

Stuhlmann). 

Duwoni 

(from  the  lower 

valley). 

Saddle  Mt.  (?) 


219 


Chapter  VII. 


iiKnitli,  from  the  IGtli  of  June  to  the  12th  of  July.  In  this  way 
the  altitude  of  Bujongolo  was  established  at  7,435  feet  above 
Fort  Portal,  consequently  12,461  feet  above  the  sea-level.  The 
observations  taken  in  the  valleys  and  on  the  peaks  with  the 
niercmial  Ijaronieter,  or  in  places  of  secondary  importance  with 
the  aneroid,  were  then  referred  to  this  base.  A  third  base 
of  less  value,  because  the  observations  there  were  not  taken 
during  so  long  a  period  as  at  Bujongolo,  is  Ibanda  in  the  Lower 
Mobuku  Vallev.  Onlv  one  of  the  measurements  of  altitude 
refers  to  this  as  its  base  point,  namely,  that  of  the  lolanda 
Peak  of  Mt.  Gessi,  which  was  also  taken  with  the  boiling- 
point  thermometer  because  the  barometer  was  broken. 

To  estimate  the  approximation  to  the  actual  truth,  which 
may  be  attained  by  measuring  heights  merely  by  direct  obser- 
vation of  atmospheric  pressure,  by  means  of  the  boiling  point 
of  water  (hypsometer),  or  by  the  aneroid  barometer,  it  will 
suflSce  to  compare  some  results  obtained  by  this  simple  method 
with  the  corresjDonding  measurements  as  taken  by  the  Duke 
and  calculated  with  all  the  corrections  furnished  by  a  base 
station. 


Locality. 

Grauer,  Teg 

art,  and  Maddox. 

Wollaston. 

H.R.H. 

Observations  referred 
to  a  base  station. 

Hypsometer. 

Aneroid. 

Hypsometer. 

Mercurial  Bur. 

Fort  Portal 

5,200 

— 

— 

5,027 

Bihunga  ... 

6,978 

6,700 

— 

6,300 

Kichuchu 

9,869 

9,600 

— 

9,833 

Bujongolo 

12,481 

12,300-12,500 

12,660 

12,461 

Camp  Grauer 

13,303 

13,100 

— 

13,229 

C4rauer  Piock 

14,956 

19,030 

— 

14,813 

Wollastori  Peak  ... 

— 

— 

15,893 

15,286 

220 


Formation  and  General  Features  of  Euwenzori. 

By  far  the  most  interesting  altinietric  oljservatioiis  are 
those  which  were  taken  by  Lieutenant  T.  T.  Behrens  in  1903 
durino-  the  Ano;lo-German  frontier  dehmitation.  He  then  fixed 
trigonometrically  the  height  of  the  two  peaks  which  appeared 
to  be  the  highest,  as  well  as  of  four  otlier  points.  It  was, 
however,  only  after  the  publication  of  the  Italian  map  that  he 
was  able  to  identify  with  certainty  the  position  of  these  peaks, 
and  hence  to  obtain  all  the  data  for  an  exact  calculation  of 
the  altitudes  on  the  basis  of  the  angles  taken.  It  is  worth 
while  to  compare  his  results  with  those  of  H.R.H. 


Name  of  Peak. 


Height  in  Feet  above  tlie  Level  of  the  Sea. 


Lieut.  T.  T.  Behrens. 
Trigonometric  Value. 


H.R.H. 

Barometric  Value. 


Difference, 

Trigonometric 

minus  Barometric. 


Feet. 

Margherita 

16,619 

Alexandra 

16,543 

Edward 

15,748 

Vittorio  Enianuele 

15,846 

Umberto 

15,554 

lolanda 

15,258 

Feet. 
16,815 

16,749 

15,988 

16,080 

15,798 

15,647 


-196 
-206 
-240 
-234 
-244 
-389 


This  is  not  the  place  to  discuss  the  relative  value  of  the 
two  series  of  numbers.  In  Appendix  B,  Prof  Omodei  gives 
m  extenso  all  the  data  of  H.E.H.'s  observations,  and  a  critical 
expose  of  the  methods  adopted,  and  of  the  precautions  taken 
in  calculating  the  altitudes. 

Dr.  A.  lioccati  has  written  a  detailed  account  of  the  geology 
and  mineralogy  of  Euwenzori,  which  is  published  in  the  volume 

221 


Chapter  VII. 

containing  tlie  work  done  Ijy  the  ItaUan  expedition  in  different 
branches  of  natural  science.* 

Like   Stuhhnann  and    Scott    EUiot,  he   absohitely  exchides 
all    possibility  of  a  volcanic    origin    for    the   chain.     There    is 


SENECIU   AND    HEIJCHKYSUM    IX   THE    I  1'1'ER    BUTAGU   VALLEY. 


only  one  circumscribed  point  of  the  whole  region  explored, 
namely,  the  rock  wall  which  forms  the  shelter  of  Kichuchu, 
where  a  formation  of  a  volcanic  nature  exists,  consisting  of 
veins  of  basalt  enclosed  in  a  wall  of  gneiss. 

The  inclination  of  strata  is  often  very  marked,  reaching  at 
times  an   angle   of  over  G0°,  and  is,  as  a  rule,  turned  eastward 


'"Appendix  D  contains  a  short  resume  by  Dr.  Koceati  of  the  geology  of  the 


range. 


Formation  and  General  Features  of  Ruwenzori. 

and  south-eastward  on  the  eastern  part  of  the  chain,  southward 
on  the  southern  part,  and  south-westward  on  the  western  part 
so  as  to  form  a  tectonic  semi-elhpse. 

Resuming  in  its  main  outhnes  the  origin  of  the  group  of 
mountains  and  of  the  high  peaks  of  its  central  portion,  we 
may  ascribe  it  to  three  causes,  geotectonic,  stratigraphic  and 
litho logic,  namely  : — 

1.  The  upheaval  en  hloc  of  a  whole  portion  of  the 
archaean  rocks  of  Central  Africa  with  a  main  slope  for  the 
rise  from  west  to  east.  This  rise  is  mainly  in  relation  to 
the  gigantic  western  fracture,  with  its  relative  vertical 
displacements,  which  originated  the  Semliki  Valley,  and  also 
witli  other  fractures  which  have  taken  place  to  the  east  of 
the  group,  and  wliich  are  marked  by  a  series  of  recent 
volcanoes  like  those  of  the  Province  of  the  Toro  District. 

2.  To  a  marked  elevation — ellijDSoid  or  anticlinal,  with 
general  direction  from  north  to  south,  and  strata  more  or  less 
considerably  uplifted  in  the  Ruwenzori  group. 

3.  To  the  existence  in  the  central  region  of  a  group  of  rocks 
which  have  resisted  the  physico-chemical  action  of  external 
agents  (amphibolite,  diorite,  diabasis,  amphibolic  gneiss), 
whereas  the  gneiss-rocks  and  mica-schists  of  the  lower  zone 
oppose  far  less  resistance  to  such   agents. 

To  these  main  causes  we  may  add  the  probal)le  existence  of 
internal  fractures  in  the  group.  With  a  main  direction  from 
north  to  south,  which  would  have  contributed  to  the  isolation 
of  the  several  groups.  An  important  geological  feature  of 
Ruwenzori  is  the  vast  development  of  the  glaciers  during  the 
glacial  period.  The  proofs  of  this  are  manifest,  especially  at 
Nakitawa.  At  one  time  the  valleys  of  the  Mahoma,  of  the 
Mobuku    and   of  the    Bujuku    were    filled    ^^'ith    large    glaciers 

223 


Chapter  YII. 

which  met  below  Nakitawa  and  flowed  down  to  a  point  beyond 
Bihunga.  In  this  way  also,  on  the  western  slope,  tiie  Savoia, 
Elena  and  Semper  Glaciers  must  liave  entered  into  the  hollow 
formed  between  the  g-roups  Stanley,  Baker  and  Luigi  di  Savoia, 


I,OI!KLlA    DECIvKNI,    SKNHCIO    AND     IKl'-l'.-ll  KATHS. 


and  probably  joined  llu'  Kdward  Glacier.  It  is  not  possible 
to  state  exactly  down  to  wliat  point  the  glaciers  had  reached  in 
that  direction,  as  the  valleys  to  tlie  west  of  the  chain  were 
not  explored. 


224 


Formation  and  General  Features  of  Ruwenzori. 

To-day  tlie  iiiaciers  are  of  small  extent  and  diniiuishiiiir. 
This  is  proved  at  some  points  by  the  presence  of  moraines 
recently  abandoned  only  a  few  hundred  yards  from  the  actual 
glacier  snout,  and  from  the  freshness  of  the  marks  of  polishing 
by  ice  on  the  rocks  close  to  nearly  all  the  glaciers.  There 
are  no  glaciers  of  the  first  degree  in  the  principal  valleys,  but 
only  secondary  glaciers  in  the  upper  part  of  the  mountains 
and  in  the  main  gorges,  not,  however,  in  the  nature  of  mere 
hanging  glaciers,  but  true  glaciers.  Unlike  our  own  Alps, 
there  are  no  real  basins,  but  merely  a  sort  of  glacier  caps  from 
which  ice  digitations  flow  down  at  divers  points.  In  other 
words,  we  have  on  the  higher  groups  of  Ruwenzori  glacier 
formations  which  remind  us  of  the  Scandinavian  type  and 
which  have  been   called   tropical  glaciers. 

The  Moore  and  Semper  Glaciers  flow  further  down  than 
any — the  former  as  low  as  13,690  feet,  and  the  latter  as  far 
as  14,000  feet.  The  largest  glaciers  are  on  the  Stanley,  Speke 
and  Baker  groups,  and  on  the  eastern  sides  of  the  Gessi  group. 
The  smaller  ones  are  upon  the  Emin  and  the  Luigi  di  Savoia 
groups,  unless  these  latter  have  important  glaciers  to  the  north 
of  the  one  and  the  south  of  the  other  where  they  were  not 
explored  by  the  expedition. 

A  characteristic  feature  of  the  high  ridges,  and  more 
especially  of  the  snowy  ridges  around  Alexandra  and  Margherita 
Peaks,  are  the  enormous  cornices,  which  from  a  distance 
appear  to  be  inaccessible,  and  have  a  totally  different  appear- 
ance to  those  of  the  Alps  and  of  the  Caucasus.  Rapid  and 
frequent  changes  in  temperature,  falling  from  several  degrees 
above  to  several  degrees  below  the  freezing  jjoint,  create  an 
incessant  alternation  of  frost  and  tha^^-,  and  give  rise  to  the 
formation   of   an  immense    number  of   stalactites    under    these 

225  Q 


Chapter  VII. 

cornices,  which  are  so  intricate  and  so  situated  in  relation  to 
one  another  as  to  form  a  real  scaffolding  to  support  the  ice- 
dome,  which  is  usually  of  a  spono-y  consistency  and  quite  light. 


I.oliKI.IA    IX    FLOWER. 

Thus  on  lluwenzori  the  cornices  are  far  more  solid  and  safe  than 
in  the  Alps,  and,  in  spite  of  their  number  and  extent,  there  was 
no  visible  sign  of  a  recent   collapse  at  any  point. 

L>L'G 


Formation  and  General  Features  of  Ruwenzori. 

The  snow-limit  may  be  calculated  as  between  14,700  and 
14,800  feet  ;  in  other  words,  at  about  the  same  level  M'hich 
is  reached  by  the  lower  extremity  of  most  glaciers.  Towards 
14,000  feet  the  rain  always  turns  into  snow. 

There  is  not,  perhaps,  an  al)Solute  predominance  of  any  one 
wind  throughout  the  chain.  It  is,  at  least,  quite  certain  that 
fog,  snow,  and  hail  are  extremely  frequent  and  common  to  all 
the  winds,  so  that  all  forecasts  are  vain.  Fine  and  bad  weather 
may  alternate  several  times  in  a  few  hours,  and  in  so  capricious 
a  manner  as  not  to  appear  subject  to  any  law.  Only  in  the 
earlv  mornino-  hours  there  seems  to  be  a  somewhat  greater 
probability  of  a  clear  sky. 

The  bad  weather  is  frequently  violent,  and  accompanied  bv 
strong  wind,  lightning  and  thunder,  even  in  the  highest 
regions.  Near  Alexandra  Peak  and  on  Edward  and  Sella 
Peaks  the  rocks  bear  witness  to  the  violence  of  these  storms 
by  the  innumerable  fulgurites  with  which  thev  are  riddled. 
No  conclusions  as  to  the  best  season  for  visitins:  Kuwenzori 
can  be  drawn  from  the  experiences  of  the  Italian  expedition. 
During  June  bad  weather  certainly  predominated.  The  longest 
dry  spell  was  in  the  second  week  of  Julv.  After  this  period 
the  expedition  began  to  withdraw  from  the  higher  vallevs  and 
peaks,  to  which  the  rains  and  fogs  seem  to  be  strictlv  limited. 
Indeed,  on  their  return  to  Fort  Portal  they  learned  from  the 
resident   missionaries    that   durino-   those    two   months    no   rain 

o 

liad  fallen  there. 

The  valleys  of  Ruwenzori  are  often  divided  into  natural 
terraces  produced  Ijy  the  formation  of  layers  of  strata  above 
the  ridges  of  hard  rock,  which  at  an  earlier  period  dammed  up 
these  valleys  in  places,  thus  creating  lake  basins  which  have 
subsequently    silted    up    with    alluvial   deposit,    of    which     tlie 

227  g  2 


Chapter  \U. 

present    marshy    levels    are    the    result.       Lake     Biijiiku    is    a 
survival  of  one  of  these  ancient  basins. 

In  the   Mobuku   and    Biijuku   Valleys   towards    10,000    feet 
the  damp  and  mild  climate  specially  favours  the  development  of 


SENECIO   AND    LOT.KMA    ST^H1.:^[A^^•I. 


lycopodiuiu,  mosses,  and  lichens  which  clothe  the  sides  and 
bottoms  of  the  valleys,  and  cover  the  trunks  of  the  living 
trees  or  of  those  tliat  have  fallen  from  old  age.  At  this 
height   t]ut   valleys  are  clad  with  a  dense  forest  of  heaths  and 

228 


IN   THE   SENECIO   FOREST 


Formation  and  General  Features  of  Ruwenzori. 

of  bamboos,  with  brambles,  orchids  and  ferns,  in  whose  shade 
grow  violets,  ranunculi,  geranium,  epilobium,  thistles,  and 
umbelliferous  plants. 

Towards  11,500  feet  a  certain  nmnber  of  the  aromatic 
plants,  which  had  formed  a  large  part  of  the  underwood,  cease, 
and  among  the  trees  only  the  heaths,  lobelias,  and  senecios 
remain,  while  the  ferns  become  prominent,  and  the  lycopodium, 
mosses,  and  lichens  develop)  to  an  inordinate  degree.  This 
development  reaches  its  maximum  at  about  12,500  feet,  a  little 
before  the  point  where  the  heaths  stop  altogether,  beyond 
which  remain  only  senecios,  lobelia,  reeds,  mosses,  and  lichens. 

Here  the  helichrysum,  or  everlasting  flower,  which  had 
already  been  noticed  at  about  11,500  feet,  forms  dense  thickets, 
which  reach  up  to  the  glaciers  together  with  the  senecios,  and 
is  the  last  form  of  shrubby  vegetation.  Among  the  numerous 
specimens  of  helichrysum  and  senecio  brought  liome  by  the 
expedition,  there  were  several  new  species.  Mention  should  be 
made  here  of  a  fine  and  rare  tree  found  at  Bujongolo,  belonging 
to  the  family  Ericaceae,  and  the  genus  Philippia. 

On  the  peaks  are  seen  mosses,  lichens,  a  few  rare  graminaceae 
and  a  few  dwarf  phanerogams  which  remind  one  of  the 
characteristic  vegetation  of  our  own  Alps.  At  and  above 
16,000  feet  the  rocks  are  bare. 

The  expedition  had  not  proposed  to  itself  the  task  of 
making  special  and  minute  researches  regarding  the  fauna  of 
the  region.  So  far,  however,  as  was  possible,  in  spite  of  the 
rapidity  of  the  marches  and  the  unfavourable  circumstances,  as 
many  animal  specimens  as  possible  were  collected,  and  to  these 
were  added  large  collections  made  for  the  expedition  by  the 
Catholic  missionaries. 

As  they  ascended  the  Mobuku  Valley  tlie  fauna  became  less 

229 


Chapter  VII. 

and  less  abundant,  while  above  Bujongolo  nothing-  was  found 
except  leopards,  rats,  bats,  a  few  crows,  hawks,  birds  of  the 
sparrow  family,  msects  and  wt)iiiis.  Upon  the  peaks  were 
found  worms,  neuroptera  and  diptera. 

The  botanical  and  zoolog'ical  collections  offered  abundant 
material,  comprising  many  species  which  w^ere  either  new  or 
interesting  from  other  points  of  view,  and  w^hich  have  been 
amply  described  and  illustrated  in  the  volume  of  special  studies 
upon  Ruwenzori. 

We  have  now  glanced  cursorily  at  the  principal  results  of 
the  Italian  expedition — results  implying  sustained  effort,  owing 
to  the  extreme  shortness  of  their  sojourn  in  the  mountains. 
Having  thus  briefly  reviewed  the  chief  features  of  the  region, 
we  may  once  more  take  u})  our  narrative. 


'230 


CHAPTER  VIII. 
Exploration  of  Mt.  Speke  and  Mt.  Emin. 

The  Descent  into  the  Bujuku  Valley — Stuhlmann's  Col — Western  Slopes  of 
-Mt.  Speke— Ascent  of  Vittorio  Emanuele  Peak — Storm  and  Electrical 
Phenomena  upon  the  Peak — Two  Days'  Bad  AVeather — Glacier  Torrents  of 
Ruwenzori — The  Duke  reascends  A^ittorio  Emaiuiele  Peak — Crossing  the 
AA'estern  Valleys — Camp  at  the  Foot  of  Alt.  Emin — Ascent  of  Umherto  Peak 
— Retui-n  to  Bujongolo — Three  Days'  Alarch  through  the  Rain — Recapitulation 
of  the  work  done. 


We  left  of!'  the  narrative  at 
the  point  when  the  expedition 
had  assembled  in  Camp  IV, 
above  Scott  Elliot  Col,  near  the 
Elena  Glacier  of  Mt.  Stanley, 
on  the  21st  of  Jmie. 

On  the  following  morning, 
June  22nd,  the  Duke  once  more 
prepared  to  leave  his  companions 
and  jjursue  the  exploration  of 
the  chain,  directing  his  steps 
towards  the  northern  groups. 
Some  days  before,  from  the  summit  of  Alexandra  Peak, 
he  had  been  able  to  ascertain  that  the  most  convenient 
and  the  shortest  route  to  Mt  Speke  and  Mt.  Emin  lay 
along  their  western  slopes,  which  could  be  easily  reached 
by  crossing  the   Upper  Bujuku   Valley    and    Stuhlmaiui's   Col, 

231 


Chapter  YIII. 


(AMI'  IV,  CLOSE  TO  THE  ELENA  GLACIEK 


which  hes  hetween  Mt.  Speke  and  Mt.  Stanley.  The  Duke 
was  accompanied  by  the  guides  Joseph  and  Laurent  Petigax, 
Olher  and  five  Bakonjo  porters. 

The  northern  wall  of  the  Scott  Elliot  Col,  as  has  already 
been  stated,  forms  a  })recipice  overhanging  Lake  Bujuku. 
After  a  short  descent  between  great  blocks  of  rock  covered 
with  the  usual  mosses  and  lichens,  the  party  entered  a 
narrow  gorge  and  then  a  nearly  perpendicular  gully  full  of 
detritus.  The  loaded  natives,  little  used  to  the  precautions 
which  are  necessary  under  these  circumstances,  trod  carelessly 
upon  the  stones  and  set  tliem  rolling,  to  the  serious  risk  of 
those  who  were  ahead.  It  was  necessary  to  descend  slowly, 
with  great  caution,  and  quite  close  together. 

The  natives  had    by  this  time    acquired  somewhat    greater 

232 


Exploration  of  Mt.  Speke  and  ]\It.   Emin. 

confidence  in  their  leaders,  and  followed  them  \\ith  a  better 
will.  The  guides  helped  them  at  all  the  difficult  points  and 
the  caravan  was  once  more  in  good  spirits.  At  the  foot 
of  this  gully  they  again  entered  the  senecio  forest,  through 
which  they  descended  by  a  gentler  slope  obliquely  towards 
the  bottom  of  the  valley,  where  they  found  a  treeless,  marshy 
tract  (12,904  feet).  This  they  reached  after  two  and  a-half 
hours'  march,  crossing  the  torrent  above  Lake  Bujuku.  The 
usual  obstinate  fog  enveloped  the  wliole  valley. 

From  this  point  they  began  to  ascend  by  a  moderate  slope 
directly  towards  the  southern  face  of  Mt.  Speke.  About 
300  feet  higher  up,  they  came  across  a  neve  formed  by 
avalanches  at  the  foot  of  the  rock  wall,  which  was  covered 
above  by  a  glacier  broken  up  into  seracs,  and,  as  it  were, 
suspended  over  the  valley.  Skirting  round  the  neve  to  the 
left  they  continued  to  ascend,  directing  their  steps  to  a  point 
where  the  south-west  ridge  of  Mt.  Speke  joins  Stuhlmann's 
•Col  to  the  north  of  a  rocky  spur  clearly  visible  in  the  middle 
of  the  col.  The  last  bit  of  way  at  the  foot  of  the  perpendicular 
cliff,  overhung  by  the  terminal  seracs  of  the  glacier,  is  exposed 
to  the  danger  of  stones  falling  from  above.  The  ascent  is 
•easy  but  fatiguing  on  account  of  the  slippery  rocks  covered 
with  moss. 

By  the  time  they  reached  the  watershed,  a  fine  warm  sun 
bad  dissipated  the  fog,  and  they  stopped  for  a  while  to  enjoy 
the  fine  view  over  the  upper  amphitheatre  of  the  Bujuku 
"VaUey.  It  is  completely  surrounded  by  precipitous  clifts. 
Only  under  Margherita  and  Alexandra  Peaks  the  gentler  slope 
allows  the  glacier  to  descend  to  a  lower  level,  but  all  the  rest 
of  the  circle  of  glaciers  stops  short  at  the  brow  of  the  clifts. 
Now  and   then  the   roar  ot    the   avalanches  of  seracs   may  be 

233 


Chapter  VIII. 

lieard  as  tliev  crash  down  into  the  valley.  The  rocky 
buttresses  of  Elena  and  Savoia  Peaks,  and  the  jjrecipitous 
cliffs  of  the  north  face  of  Mount  Baker,  overtopped  towards 
the  east  by  Moore  and  Wollaston  Peaks,  are  especially  grand. 

After  skirting  the  foot  of  the  south-west  ridge  of  Mt.  Speke, 
thev  pursued  tlieir  way  nearly  on  a  level  under  the  western 
cliff,  keeping  high  and  not  far  from  the  glacier.  This  glacier 
has  Avithdrawn  recently,  leaving  a  long  fringe  of  rocks  and 
moraine  detritus,  under  which  a  few  senecios  and  groups  of 
helichrvsum  have  taken  root. 

A  little  further  on,  the  tent  was  pitched  on  a  narrow 
strip  of  land  between  two  oval  lakes  and  the  margin  of  the 
Speke  Glacier.  This  is  Camp  V,  at  a  height  of  14,682  feet 
above  the  sea-level,  immediately  under  Yittorio  Emanuele 
Peak.  There  were  only  a  few  senecios  at  this  })oint,  and 
the  natives  sought  for  shelter  lower  down,  ^A^iere  there  was 
abundance  of  wood.  The  sky  was  clear  overhead,  but  round 
the  peaks  and  in  the  valleys  lingered  fogs,  which  liid  the 
greater  jDart  of  the  landscape.  A  little  further  and  lower 
down  was  a  third  lake,  somewhat  larger  than  tlie  two  which 
were  near  the  camp. 

On  the  next  day,  first  climbing  the  rocks  and  then  up  the 
glacier,  following  an  easy  western  ridge,  without  once  using  the 
rope,  in  a  little  more  tlian  an  hour  they  reached  tlie  smnmit  of 
Vittorio  Emanuele  Peak,  1(3,080  feet  above  the  sea-level.  It  was 
6.30  in  the  morning  and  they  were  already  surrounded  by  dense 
fog.  They  remained  nearly  eight  hours  on  the  summit  in  vain 
expectation  of  an  opening  in  the  fog,  which  never  came.  There 
was  a  light,  variable  wind,  and  every  now  and  then  a  sno^^•fall, 
changing  occasionally  into  brief  and  violent  showers  of  hail. 
At  one  time  they  were  enveloped  in  a  cloud  so  charged  witli 

234 


SEXI-XIO   FOREST   TO    THE    WEST  OF  FRESHFIELD   COL 
S A  vol  A   PEAK  IN  THE  DISTANCE 


Exploration  of  Mt.  Speke  and  ^It.  Emin. 

electricity    that    tiny  discharges    Ijegaii    to   crackle   upon   tlieir 
ice-axes,  their  tripod,  and  their    barometer.      Even   their   hair 


MT.  SPEKE  SEEN  FROM  THE  SEXECIO  FOREST  AT  THE  FOOT  OF 

SCOTT  Elliot's  col. 

crackled  upon  then^  heads.      It  was  a  disagreeable  situation,  and 
by  no  means  without  danger. 

To  kill  time,  they  built  a  big  stone  man  on  a  point  of*  rock 
to    the    north-west,    a   little    below    the    snow    peak.       In    the 

235 


Chapter  VIII. 

^afternoon  they  went  down  to  the  camp,  as  the  weather  was 
getting  worse.  The  day  luid  l)een  completely  wasted  as  far  as 
exploring  work  was  concerned. 

The  24th  and  the  25th  of  June  were  spent  in  a  dense  fog, 
with  alternations  of  rain,  snow,  and  hail.  The  guides  set  out 
on  a  short  excursion  to  endeavour  to  find  tlie  way  to  Mt.  Emin 
across  the  valleys  which  run  down  to  the  north-west  of 
Mt.  Speke.  On  the  25th,  H.R.H.  attempted  to  proceed,  but 
was  very  soon  forced  to  return,  the  fog  being  so  dense  that 
it  seemed  like  night. 

During  these  two  days  of  obligatory  rest,  the  Duke  was 
able  to  observe  in  the  little  torrents  which  flow  down  from  the 
Speke  Glacier  the  periodic  oscillations  of  volume,  ranging  from 
a  minimum  in  the  morning  to  a  maximum  in  the  evening,  which 
are  characteristic  of  torrents  produced  by  the  melting  of  ice. 
There  would  be  no  reason  to  comment  upon  this  fact  were  it  not 
that  Mr.  Freshfield  was  led,  from  observation  of  the  small 
dimensions  of  the  Mobuku  torrent  where  it  springs  from  the 
glacier,  and  from  the  limpidity  of  its  waters,  to  conclude  that 
it  rather  originated  from  a  spring  under  the  glacier  than  from 
actual  melting  of  the  ice. 

This  view  fits  in  with  Mr.  Freshfield's  general  theory  that 
tropical  glaciers  are  consumed  chiefly  by  evaporation,  and  in 
a  minor  degree  only  by  melting.  Whatever  may  be  the  con- 
ditions in  the  Himalayas,  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  in  this 
respect  tlie  glaciers  of  Ruwenzori  resemble  tliose  of  our  o^^'n 
Alps,  and  tliat  they  all  give  rise  to  torrents  flowing  from  their 
extreme  end  with  all  the  characteristic  features  of  glacier 
torrents.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  the  climate  of  Buwenzori  is  very 
little  tropical  in  its  nature,  and  it  would  seem  that  a  condition 
of    atmosjjhere    so    satm-ated    witli    moisture   as   to   render   the 

L';3G 


Exploration  of*  Mt.   Speke  and   Mt.   Eniin. 

mists  nearly  permanent  could  luirdly  cause  so  rapid  an  evapora- 
tion as  alone  to  account  for  the  very  considerable  waste  of 
the  glaciers.  The  limpidity  of  the  waters  of  torrents  which 
spring  from  certain  glaciers  of  Ruwenzori  may,  in  all  probability,, 
be  ascribed  to  the  almost  complete  immobility  of  the  glaciers 
themselves,  owing  to  which  they  grind  no  detritus  from  the 
rocks  that  form  their  beds.  As  was  mentioned  in  the  preceding 
chapter,  these  glaciers  are  in  the  form  of  ice-caps  on  the 
summits  and  ridges  rather  than  of  true  streams  of  ice  flowing 
from  neves,  as   is   the   case  in   our   own   Alps. 

Fully  to  estimate,  however,  the  importance  of  the  Ruwenzori 
chain  in  feeding  the  Nile,  we  must  take  into  account  not  so 
much  the  glaciers  as  the  entire  mountain  range,  whose  highest 
peaks  soar  up  into  the  colder  strata  of  the  air,  and  gather  to 
themselves  and  precipitate  in  rain  and  snow  the  mass  of 
vapours  drawn  up  from  the  vast  plains  below,  while  the 
network  of  valleys  form  great  basins  to  collect  the  water  thus 
gathered.  The  reader  will  remember  that  on  the  western  and 
southern  slopes  alone  Stanley  counted  sixty-two  torrents  flowing 
from  the  mountains  into  the  Semliki  River  and  into  Lake 
Albert  Edward. 

On  the  evening  of  the  25th  of  Jinie  the  scene  changed 
rapidly.  The  w^hole  sky  cleared  up,  and  a  marvellous  simset 
kindled  the  whole  valley  and  the  far-ofi*  forest  of  the  Congo 
into  flaming  red. 

The  following  night  was  bitterly  cold.  On  the  morning  of 
the  26th,  the  Duke  and  the  guides  were  on  their  way  by  four 
o'clock.  The  frost  was  hard  and  all  the  water  frozen,  even  the 
little  lake  was  nearly  completely  covered  with  ice.  The  hard 
snow  gave  a  good  foothold  upon  the  glacier.  By  a  (piarter 
past    five    they    were    once    more    on    the    summit    of  Vittorio 

237 


Chapter  VII T. 

Emaniiele  Peak.  A  cold  wind  was  l)lo\ving  from  the  north- 
west. In  the  absohitely  clear  and  transparent  air  the  outlines 
of  the  peaks  stood  out  distinctly  upon  the  sky.  The  weather 
was  capital  for  topographical  work. 


Vittorio  Eiuiiiiiiele  Peak. 


Johnston  Peak. 


MT.    .SPElvE   FROM    Till'.    STAM.KY    l'l..VTEAl'. 

Vittorio  Emanuele  Peak  is  situated  nearly  in  the  centre  of 
the  vast  circle  upon  which  are  distributed  the  mountains  and 
glaciers  of  Iluwenzori,  and  is  without  doubt  the  best  point 
of  observation  of  the  whole  range.  Northward  from  the  peak 
runs  the  long  ice  ridge  wliich  presently  dips  to  the  Cavalli 
Pass,  and  thence  rises  again  to  the  Umberto  Peak  of  Mt.  Emin. 
A  deep  gorge  between  precipitous  cliffs,  running  from  north 
to  south,  divides  Mt.  Emin  from  Mt.  Gessi.  The  two  peaks 
of  Mt.   Gessi,   lolanda  and   Bottego   are    clearly   visible   at   the 

23.S 


Exploration  of  Mt.   Speke  and  ^It.   Eniin. 

extreme  end  of  the  terminal  snow  ridge.  To  the  south-west 
rises  the  mighty  mass  of  Mt.  Stanley  with  its  five  peaks,  of 
which  the  Alexandra  Peak  is  scarcely  visible  to  the  left  and  to 
the  back  of  Margherita  Peak  ;  while  on  the  great  ice  plain  form- 
ing the  Stanley  plateau  they  were  able  to  discern,  like  little 
black  specks,  the  caravan  of  Vittorio  Sella,  on  his  way  up  to  the 
Alexandra  Peak  that  morning.  The  ring  of  glaciers  ends  to 
the  east  with  the  Moore  Peak  of  Mt.  Baker,  where  they  saw 
the  stone  man  which  Vittorio  Sella  had  set  up  there  a  few 
days  before. 

Through  the  opening  formed  by  the  Scott  Elliot  Pass,  as 
if  through  a  window,  they  saw  at  a  distance  the  western 
extremity  of  Mt.  Luigi  di  Savoia.  Between  this  mountain 
and  the  pass  the  eye  follows  the  valley  down  to  the  lakes 
to  the  west  of  Mt.  Baker.  Here  in  the  pale  light  of  the 
dawn  they  made  out  a  fire.  This  was  the  camp  of  the  native 
porters  who  were  bringing  supplies. 

Thus,  at  that  early  hour,  from  the  summit  of  Mt.  SjDeke, 
the  Duke  saw  the  whole  carefully  organized  work  of  his 
expedition  proceeding  before  his  eyes. 

A  little  after  seven  o'clock  they  were  back  at  the  tent, 
and  spent  the  rest  of  the  day  in  drying  in  the  sun  their 
equipment,  which  was  soaked  with  the  rain  of  the  previous 
days. 

Towards  evening  a  few  more  Bakonjo  arrived  with  pro- 
visions. The  night  was  absolutely  clear  and  starry,  and  the  sun 
rose  in  a  perfectly  clear  sky.  The  Duke  started  ahead  with 
a  guide  and  proceeded  northward  across  the  interval  between 
the  lakes  and  the  foot  of  the  cliff,  a  rocky  ledge  upon  which, 
about  600  feet  further  up,  the  glacier  comes  to  an  end  in  a 
cascade    of  seracs.     They    proceeded   by  leaping  from   one    to 

239 


Chapter  VIII. 

another  of  the  blocks  heaped  at  the  foot  of  tlie  chif.  The 
porters  found  an  easier  way  a  httle  further  down  through 
the  senecios  and  heUchrysums  between  the  second  and  third 
lakelets. 

Thus  skirting  along  the  glacier  they  presently  reached 
the  top  of  tlie  lofty  buttress,  which  runs  westward  from 
Mt.  Speke,  dividing  the  two  valleys  which  are  to  the  west  of 
the  Stuhlmann  and  Cavalli  Passes.  A  spur  of  rock  rises  from 
the  very  ridge,  forming  a  helvedere  14,744  feet  high,  from 
which  they  were  able  to  observe  the  way  which  lay  before 
them. 

Unfortunately  the  weather  was  already  changing,  and 
detached  drifts  of  mist,  which  had  been  gathering  here  and 
there,  now  began  rapidly  to  collect  and  melt  into  one  another. 
They  saw  quite  clearly  from  this  point  a  conical  rocky  peak 
rising  from  one  of  the  western  buttresses  of  Mt.  Emin — a 
sort  of  "  little  Matterhorn,"  which  may  possibly  have  been  one 
of  the  "  twin  cones "  towards  which  Stairs  was  steering  on 
his  expedition  to  the  north-west  of  the  chain. 

To  reach  the  foot  of  Mt.  Emin  it  was  necessary  to  cross 
the  head  of  the  great  valley  which  runs  down  to  the  west  of 
the  Cavalli  Pass  and  cross  another  and  smaller  spur  which 
runs  into  this  valley  from  Mt.  Speke.  Hence  they  continued 
skirting  the  mountains  at  the  foot  of  the  Grant  Glacier,  which 
seems  to  have  shrunk  even  more  than  the  others.  On  reaching 
the  top  of  this  spur,  they  proceeded  to  descend,  skirting  the 
slope  towards  the  Cavalli  Pass,  taking  advantage  of  a  provi- 
dential ledge  which  squeezed  a  narrow  way  between  smooth 
steep  slabs  of  rock  which  would  otherwise  have  been  impassable. 
This  ledge  was  covered  with  a  dense  thicket  of  helichrysum, 
through  which  the  guides  cut  a  path.     The  valley  was  crossed 

240 


Exploration  of  ]\It.  Speke  and  ]\It.  Emin. 

near  the  top,  just  under  the  coh  and  (amp  VI  was  establislied 
at  a  distance  of  about  half  a  mile  below  the  Umberto  Glacier 
upon  a  little  rocky  terrace  on  the  top  of  a  ])recipice  which  reached 
to  tlie  bottom  of  the  valley.  About  500  feet  lower  down, 
this  valley  forms  a  sort  of  amphitheatre  sm  i-oimdHd  bv 
precipitous  cliifs,  excepting  in  tlie  centre  Tvhere  a  gentler 
slope    leads    to    the    Cavalli    Pass.       To    the    west    it     narrows 


Uinlierto  Peak. 


Kraepelin  Peak. 


MT.    E^nX    SEEN'    FROM    THE    lOL.VXD.V    (iLAClKK. 
(Xegatixe  tdketi  lij  ll.U.H.) 

into  a  gorge  through  which  flows  the  torrent  AA-hicii  springs 
from  the  southern  glaciers  of  Mt.  Emin.  The  day's  marcli 
had  Vjeen  lono-    and   all  were  tired. 

On  the  mornini'-  (»f  the  28th  of  June  there  was  again  a 
prospect  of  bad  weather.  They  left  with  a  cloudy  sky  and 
proceeded    to    ascend    a    rocky    ridge    which     runs    down    from 

241  K 


Chapter  VI 11. 

Uniberto  Peak  between  tlie  Kiiiiii  and  Uniberto  Glaciers.  On 
reacliine;  the  riuht  niaioin  i»t'  the  latter  tliev  left  their  tent 
there  some  600  feet  above  the  sixth  camp  and  proceeded  to 
ascend  over  the  snow  wliich  covered  the  i;lacier.  At  the  to}) 
they  turned  westward  to\\ar(ls  a  rocky  ridge,  V)y  means  of 
which  they  readied  Umberto  Peak.  Here  they  remained  for 
five  honrs,  })nt  were  scarcely  able  to  catch  a  glimpse  of  a 
peak  here  and  there  among  the  mists.  They  built  a  big- 
stone  man   upon  tlie  wide  rocky  simimit. 

A  gieat  ridge  of  broken  and  decomj^osing  rock  runs  north - 
wai-d  towards  Kraepelin  Peak,  which  is  lower  and  likewise 
rocky.  Mt.  Gessi,  on  the  other  side  of  the  narrow  gorge, 
between  precipitous  cliffs,  has  the  appearance  of  a  vast  col 
\\ith  two  peaks  rather  slightly  accentuated  at  the  northern 
and  southern  extremities  of  the  long;  snowy  ridffe.  It  was  late 
when  thev  returned  to  tlie  tent  near  the  glacier.  The  Duke 
would  have  liked  to  return  upon  Umberto  Peak  on  the  following 
day  to  take  angles,  but  the  weather  was  tlireatening  from  the 
dawn.  They  had  supplies  for  one  day  only.  At  such  a  distance 
from  Bujongolo,  which  was  their  base,  and  with  so  many  passes  to 
cross  on  the  ^^'ay,  it  was  not  easy  to  obtain  provisions  regularly. 
It  was  therefore  necessary  to  retui'ii. 

In  half  an  hour  they  reached  Camp  YI,  under  the  Cavalli 
Pass,  ascended  to  the  belvedere,  in  a  snowstorm,  and  in  the 
early  liouis  of  the  afternoon  set  up  their  tent  once  more  at 
the  foot  of  Vittorio  Kmanuele  Peak.  On  the  following  day, 
a  lonir  march,  almost  entirelv  in  tlie  rain,  brouuht  them  over 
the  Stulihiiann  Pass,  tlie  head  of  the  Bujuku  Vallev.  and  the 
Scott  P^lliot  Pass.  They  once  more  set  up  their  tents  at 
CJam])  11,  on  the  shore  of  the  little  lake  at  the  foot  of  the 
western  slope   of  Mt.   Baker.      Jiations  had  been  left   ready   at 

242 


Exploration  of  Mt.  Speke  and  Mt.  Eniiii. 

prearranged  points  <ni  tlie  return  route,  so  tliat  the  caravan 
could  move  quickly,  liavino-  only  to  carry  the  liglit  cam]) 
material. 

Finally,  on  the  1st  of  July,  they  crossed  tlie  Freshfield  Pass, 
where  Vittorio  Sella  had  set  up  his  tent,  and  was  waiting  with 
Botta  tor  lair  weather  so  as  to  he  ahle  to  do  some  work  with  the 
camera.  The  Duke  proceeded  under  falling  rain  and  i-eturned 
to  the  muddy  Mobuku  Valley,  and  to  the  camp  of  Bujongolo 
after  seventeen  days'  absence. 

The  Prince  had  spent  the  whole  of  this  time  at  heiglits 
above  13,000  feet,  with  light  and  l^arely  sufficient  equipment, 
sleeping  with  his  two  guides  in  a  single  Whymper  tent, 
without  a  camp  bed,  with  clothes  nearly  always  soaked  with 
rain  and  snow,  and  with  such  discomfort  and  fatigue  as  are 
known  only  to  those  who  have  experienced  mountain  life 
mider  similar  conditions. 

In  the  course  of  tliese  seventeen  days  he  had  ascended 
Margherita,  Alexandra  (twice),  Elena,  and  Savoia  Peaks  of 
Mt.  Stanley,  Vittorio  Emanuele  Peak  of  Mt.  Speke  (twice), 
and  Umberto  Peak  of  Mt.  Emin,  crossed  the  Freshfield,  Scott 
Elliot,  and  Stuhlmann  Passes  and  explored  the  head  of  the 
Bujuku  Valley,  and  the  western  slopes  of  Mt.  Speke.  He 
had  determined  the  relative  positions  of  the  peaks,  and  the 
relation  to  each  other  of  the  several  groups,  a  work  already 
in  great  part  sketched  out  diu'ing  his  first  ascents  of  tlie 
peaks  of  Mt.  Baker,  but  now  completed  by  numerous  altimetric 
and  angular  mensurations. 

His  Avork  was  carefully  planned  to  proceed  in  conjunction 
with  that  of  the  other  members  of  the  expedition,  in  order 
to  insure  a  thorough  exploration  of  the  ranges,  as  we  shall 
see  in  the  following  chapter. 

24;}  rt  L' 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Further  Ascents  on  Mts.  Stanley,  Luigi    di    Savoia 
AND  Bakkr.     Work  at  Bujongolo. 


Thiee  more  ascents  of  the  AlexaiKlra  Peak — Ascent  of  Moebius  Peak — Crossing 
of  the  Central  Col  of  Mt.  Stanley — A  week  of  bad  weather  on  the  Fieshfield 
Pass — Ascent  of  the  Ivlward  Peak  by  the  South  Ridge— Ascent  of  the  Sella 
Peak — Work  at  Bujungolo — Preparation  of  a  Base  Line — H.R.H.  returns  to  the 
Edward  Peak  —Ascent  of  the  Cagni  Peak — Panorama  taken  from  the  Edward 
Peak — Ascent  of  Peaks  Wollaston  and  Moore— The  death  of  the  leopard  — 
General  plan  of  return. 

The  liistorv  of  nii  expedition 
divided  iiito  oitnips  ^^"ith 
distinct  special  aims,  and 
hnsy  simnltaneouslv  with  tlieir 
several  laljovu's  in  dilt'erent 
places,  is  necessarily  dis- 
connected, and  must  now  and 
again  go  back  to  take  up 
another  thread,  and  so  follow 
the  coursi^  of  each  sej)arate 
sfctioii    indix'idnallv. 

We  nnist  therefore  l)ei;" 
the  leader  to  return  to  the 
22nd  of  Jmie,  when  the  Duke  left  Camp  IV  on  the  Scott 
Elliot  Pass  to  descend  into  the  Bujuku  Valley  and  penetrate 
to  the  northern  mountains.  At  this  date  ( 'ommander 
Cagni     and     Dr.     Cavalli,     and     the     guide     Brocherel,      were 

L'44 


Further  Ascents  and  Work  at   Buionaolo 

ascending  tlie   Alexandra    Peak   in  a    dense   fo*;-.       l)\nini;-    tli*' 
three     hours     tliey    spent    on     the     suinmit     tliev    liad    a    few 


CUM  III  NC    THE   ALEXANDRA    PEAK. 


ghmpses  of*  clear  sky  and  were  ahle  to  discern  the  neighhouring 
Margherita  Peak  and  t(.)  lepeat  certain  compass  observations 
of  the  surroundino-  mountains.  On  their  wav  back  thev  had 
to  Avade  through  soft  snow  to  the  knee. 

Yittorio  Sella  had  left  at  daybreak  witli  his  photographic 
equipment  and  succeeded  in  getting  a  few  views  oi'  the 
peaks  from  the  ridges  aromid  tlie  camp,  wliilc  lioccati  was 
collecting  geological  data  and  mineralogical  specimens. 

During  the  23rd  and  the  L*4th  the  same  storm  which  had 
rendered  useless  the  Duke's  first  ascent  to  Yittorio  Emanuele 
Peak  and  had  kept  him  a  prisoner  in  Camp  Y  for  two  whole 
days,  prevented  Yittorio  Sella  and  Roccati  from  accomplishing 
any  sort  of  work  outside  of  the  tent. 

245 


Chapter  IX. 

As  to  Cagiii,  he  \v;is  in  a  Iniriy  to  g'et  back  to  Bujoiigolo 
as  soon  as  niiglit  l)e,  in  order  to  lose  no  time  in  starting  his 
magnetic  observations  and  in  calculating  the  formation  of  a 
base  line,  Avhich  was  necessary  to  complete  the  triangnlation. 
He  left  Camp  I\  on  the  2ord  ^^•ith  Dr.  Cavalli,  and  tlie  very 
same  evening  crossed  the  Freshfield  Pass,  and  reached  Biijongolo 
under  jDOuring  rain.  He  left  deposits  of  rations  along  tlie 
Avay  for  the  use  of  those  who  liad  remained  behind.  Dr.  C'axalU 
remained  at  Camp  III,  at  the  foot  of  the  western  slope  of 
Mt.  Baker,  to  collect  botanical  specimens,  and  only  reached 
Bujongolo  on  the  following  day,  also  in  a  completely  soaked 
condition. 

He  fomid  Cagni  l)nsy  witli  all  sorts  of  occupations.  He  had 
been   working    at    organization,    paving    porters,   etc.,    and    was 


M^jKiilUS    PKAK    FROM     llIK    SOlTll-KAST    RIDOE    OF   THE    ALEXANDKA    PEAK. 


now  engaged  in   sending  off  small  parties  of  natives  to  provide 
tlie  T)iike's  l)arty  with  rations  in  tlie  far  valleys  to  the  west  of 

L'4G 


MOUNT  LUIGI  DI  SAVOIA    TAKEN  FROM  KING  EDWARDS  PEAK,    MOUNT  BAKER 


o 


o 


Further  Ascents  and  AVork  at  Bujongolo. 

Mt.  Speke.  Several  Bakoiijo  had  bruised  tlieii-  feet  and 
stood  in  need  of  the  doctor's  care.  Profiting  l)y  the  absence 
of  the  greater  part  of  the  tents,  they  proceeded  with  tlie 
work  of  improving  the  camp,  enlarging  the  platforms  alreadv 
existing  and  forming  new  ones,  tilling  np  holes,  moving  blocks 
of  rock  and  cutting  down  trees  to  increase  tlie  level  space  at 
tlieir  disposal. 

The  fearful  weather  prevented  them  from  taking  any 
observations.  Durino-  a  whole  week  Commander  Caffni  was  not 
able  to  see  the  sun  for  a  single  continuous  hour.  The  rainfall 
was  slight  l3ut  almost  incessant,  and  the  fog  was  so  dense  as 
to  make  it  impossible  to  see  the  further  side  of  the  valley. 

In  spite  of  all  this,  Connnander  Cagni  was  able  to  take 
a  few  astronomical  observations  durino-  fugfitive  moments  of 
clear  weather  on  the  25th,   27th,  and  28tli  of  June. 

On  the  25th,  Vittorio  Sella,  taking  advantage  of  a  slight 
improvement  in  the  weather,  started  from  Camp  IV  with 
Roccati,  Brocherel,  and  Botta  and  accomplished  the  ascent 
of  the  Moebius  Peak,  the  only  one  of  Mt.  Stanley  which  had 
not  yet  been  ascended.  He  then  made  a  short  excursion 
on  the  serpentine  rocks  of  the  western  slopes,  crossing  the 
ridge  after  demolishing  the  great  snowy  cornice  with  the  ice- 
axes.  Here  they  had  a  view  of  two  good-sized  lakes  in  the 
valley  to  the  west.  They  came  back  to  camp  under  a  heavy 
snowfall,   but   the  day  liad  not  been  wasted. 

He  set  forth  again  on  the  following  morning,  by  daybreak, 
with  Brocherel  and  Botta.  From  tlie  ice  plain  they  saw  the 
Duke  on  the  summit  of  the  Vittorio  Emanuele  Peak.  They 
took  photographs  between  one  drift  of  mist  and  another, 
and  in  due  time  reached  tlie  summit  of  Alexandra  Peak. 
Tlie  snow  Ijegan  to  fall  again  as  they  returned  to  camp. 

247 


Chapter  IX. 

The   27tli    was    an    even   more    successiiil  day    for    Vittorio 
Sella,  wlio.  aeeonipanied  hv  Ivoccati,  first  re-ascended  Alexandra 


SAVOIA,    ELENA    AND     :S[OEP.ns    PEAKS,    AN])    MT.    MKil    DI    SAVOIA    SEEN    I'UOM 
THE    SOUTH-EAST   RIDGE   OE   THE   ALEXANDRA    PEAK. 

Peak,  Avliic'li  was  tlnus  cliinhed  for  tlie  fifth   time,  then  returned 

to  the  Stanley  plateau,  and   with   Brocherel  and   Botta  crossed 

the    col    betw^een     Alexandra    and    Moel)lus    Peaks,    and    went 

about    1,300    feet   down   tlie  broken   western   glacier.       From  a 

rocky  spm-  projecting  between  tlie  glaciers   whicli   descend  from 

Moebius  Peak  and  those  which  descend  from  Alexandra  Peak 

he  was  able  to  take  several  photographs  of  the  western  slopes, 

thus    liettinjj;  a  comnlete   series  of  views  of  Mt.    Stanlev    from 

every  side.* 

*  The  rocky  spur  at  the  foot  of  the  western  glaciers  of  Mt.  Stanley, 
which  was  clim1)ed  l»y  Vittorio  Sella,  conies  out  quite  oleaily  in  Stulilnianii's 
plate,  reproduced  on  p.  l'OG.  The  photogra])lis  taken  by  Vittoi'io  Sulla  on 
this  occasion  are  those  which  have  enabled  us  to  identify  with  .Mt.  Stanley 
the  mountain  represented  in  the  above-mentioned  plate. 

24S 


Further  Ascents  and  ^^^)rk  at  lUijongolo. 

Thence  he  re-asceiided  to  tlic  rld^c  and  to  tlir  jjhiteaii,  and 
returned  with   Roccati  to  the  camp. 

()ii  the  tollowiiii;-  dav,  in  a  storm  of  snow  and  hail,  tliey 
stnick  camp  with  tlie  assistance  of  the  })orteis  newlv 
arrived  from  Bnjongolo,  and  descended  to  the  lakes  to  the 
west  of  Mt.  Baker.  ( )n  the  29th  they  again  set  np  thcii- 
tent  on  the  Freshfield  Pass.  On  the  very  same  day  the 
photographic  camera  was  ])lanted  high  on  the  sonth  ridge  of 
the  Edward  Peak,  near  to  the  edge  of  the  glacier.  After  three 
hours  of  vain  waiting  under  rain  and  sleet,  they  finally  came 
down    to    the   tent,   leaving   the   camera  where   it   stood.     The 


FRESH  SNOW  ox  FRESHFIELD  S  PASS. 


whole  of  the  following  day  was  spent  upon  the  ridge,  crouching 
under  the  snowfall  close  to  the  camera.  Even  on  the  pass  so 
much  snow  had  fallen  that  it  had  brought  down  the  tent.  The 
firewood  was  soaked  through  and  through,  and  in  spite  oi' 
copious  libations  of  petroleum  it  was  extremely  difHcult  to 
kindle. 

249 


Chapter  IX. 

By  the  Ist  of  July,  Roccati  liad  tiiiislied  his  collection  of 
minerals  and  rocks  around  this  pass  and  the  neighhouring 
glaciers.  He  therefore  descended  to  Bujongolo,  leaving  Yittorio 
Sella  alone  Avith  Brocherel  and  Botta,  ohstinately  determined 
not  to  give  up  tlie  struggle.  In  tlie  afternoon  the  Duke  also 
crossed  the  pass,  returning  from  tlie  far  distant  Mt.  Emin  and 
])roceeding  directly  to  Bujongolo. 

On  the  following  morning,  in  most  unpromising  weather, 
Vittorio  Sella,  with  the  two  guides,  climbed  the  Edward  Peak 
directlv  from  the  col  hy  the  southern  ridge.  He  was  able  to 
take  an  occasional  pliot()gra[)li  and  an  incomplete  panorama. 
On  the  wav  down  lie  was  overtaken  bv  a  violent  recrudescence 
of  tlie  storm,  which  lasted  the  whole  of  the  next  day  with 
alternate  snow  and  liail. 

The  spectacle  presented  by  storms  at  that  altitude  (above 
14,000    feet)    is    surjiassingly    grand.       Heavy    cumulus    clouds 


MT.    slAM.KV    KlIii.M    1- KKSHl' I KLD  S    COL. 


liang  over  tlie  Semliki  River,  which  winds  far  otf  in  the  valley 
like  a  streak  of  silver.      Huge  bodies  of  whirling  vapom-s  rise 

250 


Farther  Ascents  and   ^y()^k  at   l)uj()ng()l(). 

from  the  eastern  and  western  valleys  and  strike  oik^  aiiotlier 
with  an  incessant  explosion  of  lightning  and  tliunder,  dissoKin Li- 
only  to  he  replaced  hy  fresh  supplies  from   helow. 

Often  of  an  evening  after  a  day  of  fog,  rain,  snow  and  Iiail, 
the  sky  clears  np.  Througli  the  moist  atmosphere,  as  trans- 
parent as  glass,  the  sinking  sun  appears  like  a  vast  globe  of 
fire,  suffusing  the  vallevs,  glaciers  and  snows  to  the  westward 
with  vivid  Hame  colom-. 

On  the  morning  of  the  4th  of  Jidy,  Yittorio  Sella  with  liis 
two   companions  again   left   the   tent    to    climb   to    the    central 


Sella  Peak. 


Weisinami  Peak. 


MT.  una  1)1  sAVoiA  from  fresiumki.d's  coi.. 

peak   of  Mount    Luigi   di   Savoia   which   now   l)ears    his   name. 
Crossino-  the  head  of  tlie  valley  to  tlie  west  of  the  Freshfield 


251 


Chapter  IX. 

Pass  he  reached  a  (le|)iessi(>ii  of  tlie  ridj^v.  It  was  extremely 
difficult  to  find  the  wav  in  tlie  mist.  Numerous  aiguilles 
of  rock  o))liired  them  to  cross  a  steep  neve  to  the  south  of  the 
ridge  and  then  to  return  to  the  north  side  under  the  sunnnit, 
which  they  reached  hv  a  rockv  gully.  The  Sella  Peak, 
15,286  feet,  is  rockv  and  dotted  with  numerous  fulo-nrites. 
The  edges  of  tlie  slahs  are  here  and  there  perforated  to  a  de})th 
of  some  inches   and  look  as   if  thev    were    worm-eaten.      Thev 


THE   SOITII    HllXiE    OF    HUWAr^U    I'KAK    AM»    IIIK    CAAM'   ei-OSE   To 

EKEsiiriKi.n's  I'Ass. 


spent   seveial    hours    ujxm    the    summit    without    the    chance    of 
takiui"-  a  sinirle  i)hotoi'raph.      Thev  were  scarcelv  able,  durini:'  a 


Further  Ascents  and  Work  at  Bujongolo. 

momeutarv  cleariiiu,'  of  tlic  mist,  to  distiiimiisli  tlic  Weisinaiiii 
Peak  to  the  sontli-west  at  the  end  of  a  loiii:'  snowy  ridy'e. 
On  tlieir  return  they  descended  straight  to  the  bottom  of 
the  valley,  which  was  full  of  watery  and  nniddy  spots,  with 
the  usual  veo-etation  of  senecio,  and  reached  the  tent  after 
uio-htfall    with   hue   niooidiirht. 

Vittorio  Sella  finally  rejoined  the  rest  of  the  expedition 
at  Bujongolo  on  the  5th  of  July,  after  a  whole  week  spent 
upon  the  Freshfield  Pass  in  fruitless  expeditions  up  the  ridges, 
and  hours  and  hours  of  waiting  beside  his  camera  in  the  storms. 
For  all  his  tenacity  and  energy  he  had  not  succeeded  in  getting 
a  complete  panorama  from  the  Edward  Peak  as  he  had  proposed 
to  do. 

The  party  at  Bujongolo  had  not  meantime  remained  idle. 
Commander  Cagni  had  vainly  attempted  to  take  magnetic 
observations,  but  was  prevented  by  the  abundance  of  minerals 
containing  iron  in  the  rocks  around  Bujongolo.  This  influence 
was  so  considerable  that  it  could  be  felt  even  when  the 
inclinometer  was  placed  at  a  height  of  some  yards  above 
the  earth  upon  a  wooden  frame-work  constructed  for  the 
purpose. 

The  p-reatest  diflicultv,  however,  was  in  tindino-  a  stretch 
of  n-round  level  enouiih  and  wide  enouo-h  to  allow  of  measuriiii;- 
a  base  line  whose  extremities  were  to  l)e  connected  witii  two 
of  the  peaks  forming  a  part  of  the  network  of  angles 
measured  by  the  Duke  from  the  different  mountains  wliieli  he 
ascended. 

There  was  a  level  })lace  some  distance  back,  above  the 
cliff;  at  tlie  foot  of  which  stood  the  Camp  of  Bujongolo.  But 
from  this  level  space  they  could  only  see  the  E(b\ard  and 
Cafrni  Peaks  w^hich   had    not   been   connected  with   the   others. 

253 


Chapter  IX. 

Another  place  higher  up  on  the  path  leading  to  the  Freshtield 
Pass,  which  the  rains  and  the  going  to  and  fro  of  the  porters 
had  now  reduced  to  the  condition  of  a  ditch  full  of  mud, 
offered  no  hetter  opportunities.  The  Duke  and  Cagni  hecame 
convinced  of  this  after  spending  a  M'hole  day  there  in  tlie 
rain. 

They  accordingly  planned  to  prepare  a  base  line  on  the 
first -mentioned  level  behind  Bujongolo.  The  Duke  was  then 
to  re-ascend  the  Edward  Peak,  while  Cagni  was  to  climb  the 
mountain  which  bears  his  name,  and  from  these  two  they  were 
to  measure  the  angles  of  the  other  peaks.  Everything  now 
depended  upon  the  good  luck  of  getting  a  few  hours  of  clear 
weather  upon  these  two  summits. 

Meantime,  on  the  2nd  of  July,  the  Duke  made  a  recognizance 
in  the  vallev  which  runs  between  Mts.  Baker  and  Cagni  and 
comes  out  opposite  Bujongolo.  This  valley  he.  foimd  t<»  be 
l)arred  l)y  great  steep  slabs  of  rock,  extremely  slippery  and 
certainly  im^Jassable  for  the  native  porters.  The  weather 
continued  bad.  Mt.  Baker  was  completely  covered  witli  fresh 
snow.  In  the  valley  the  rain  liad  turned  the  whole  groinid 
into  one  mass  of  deep  mud.  On  the  4th  of  July,  between 
the  showers,  they  succeeded,  by  taking  advantage  of  every 
break  in  the  fog,  in  tracing  the  base  line  upon  the  level  tract 
above  the  camp,  which  consisted  of  a  carpet  of  moss  upon 
a  muddy  soil,  dotted  witli  senecios  dripping  with  rain.  In 
order  to  mount  the  tlieodolite  at  the  extremities  of  the  base 
line,  they  were  obliged  to  l)iiil(l  real  foundations,  sinking 
tree  trunks  into  the  mud  more  than  six  feet  down  to  serve 
as  piles. 

Hardly  bail  they  taken  these  preparatorv  measures  ))efore 
the   weather    began    to    improve.      On   the    5th   of  July,   on    a 

251 


Further  Ascents  and   Work  at    lUijongolo. 

perfectly  clear  and  very  cold  luorning,  the  Dake  again  wput 
up  to  the  Freshfield  Pass.  Roccati,  who  had  accompanied 
him  so  far,  here  re-descended  to  Bujongolo  with  Sella,  while 
H.R.H.  proceeded  directly  to  the  Edward  Peak,  following  the 
southern  crest  along  which  Sella  had  made  the  ascent  three 
days  before.  The  mists  returned  before  lie  reached  the  sunnnit. 
It  was  onlv  late  in  the  afternoon  that  he  was  able  to  take  a 
few  ano-les  in  a  brief  moment  of  clear  sky. 

The  Duke  returned  to  the  camp  at  nightfall.  (Jn  the 
6th  of  Julv  the  weather  was  again  coni])letely  overcast  and 
no  work  was  possible,  but  on  the  7th  he  returned  earlv  in 
the  morning  to  the  summit  and  was  able  to  complete  all  the 
measurements. 

On  the  following  morning  he  ascended  the  Stairs  Peak  ot 
Mt.   Luigi  di  Savoia  before  returning  to  Bujongolo. 

Commander  Cagni  in  the  meantime  had  left  Bujongolo  on 
the  6tb  with  Joseph  Petigax,  Brocherel  and  a  few  natives 
to  ascend  the  rocky  peak  to  the  north  of  the  camp,  which  was 
to  be  connected  on  one  hand  with  one  extremity  of  tlie  base 
line,  and  on  the  other  with  the  net  of  angles  of  the  different 
peaks. 

The  Cagni  Peak,  as  may  be  seen  upon  the  map,  rises  at 
the  southern  extremity  of  a  buttress  which  runs  between 
Mt.  Baker  and  the  Soutli  Portal  Peak,  flanked  by  two  little 
valleys  containing  small  lakes  and  tributary  streams  of  the 
Mobuku. 

Wishuig  to  avoid  the  slabs  of  rock  which  had  prevented 
the  Duke  in  his  recognizance  of  the  2nd  of  July  from  entering 
the  valley  to  the  west  of  the  peak,  and  likewise  to  avoid 
crossing  the  Mobuku  Valley  below  Bujongolo  in  the  deep  mire 
and  through  the  dense  heath   forest,  Cagni  had  decided   to  go 

255 


Chapter  IX. 

\i})  the  slopes  of  Ml.  Baker  and  tlieiice  to  traverse  under 
Wollastou  and  Moore  Peaks,  towards  the  Cagni   Peak. 

Accordhii^lv  the  party  turned  its  steps  first  towards 
Grauer  s  Camp  near  to  tlie  Moore  Glacier,  and  thence  skirted 
the  eastern  slopes  of  Mt.  Baker,  intendiiii;-  to  reach  the  col 
to  tile  east  <>f  tlie  Moore  Peak.  But  their  eternal  enemy  tlie 
foi;-  ohlin"ed  them  to  stop  on  the  steep  slope  in  the  snow, 
stones  and   mud. 

On  the  following"  day  it  hecame  plain  that  it  was  impossible 
to  pursue  this  route.  It  was  necessary  to  go  down  to  the  narrow 
gorge  between  Wollaston  Peak  and  Mt.  Cagni.  This  A\as  no 
easy  task,  and  in  more  places  than  one  they  were  obliged  to  let 
down  tlie  loads  l)y  a  rope,  and  even  to  let  down  the  porters  as 
if  thev  were  parcels.  Once  at  the  foot  of  the  south-west  side 
of  the  Cagni  Peak,  which  was  cpiite  perpendicular  to  the  very 
bottom  of  the  little  valley,  they  ascended  this  latter  as  far  as 
its  head,  through  a  dense  wood  of  heath,  and  set  up  their  tents 
innnediately  under  the  col. 

From  this  point,  on  Julv  8th,  they  followed  the  spur  which 
bears  the  Cagni  Peak  at  its  end  along  its  whole  length  from 
north  to  south,  keeping  upon  its  western  slope.  In  this  way 
thev  reached  the  terminal  cone,  where  thev  left  their  ecpiipment, 
and  after  a  sliort  chmb  in  the  mist,  about  3.30  p.m.  thev 
reached  a  small  platform,  which  thev  took  for  the  summit.  The 
camp  theodolite  was  at  once  set  up  uj)on  its  trijiod.  Suddeiilv 
through  the  mist  tlu^v  perceived  to  the  south  the  real  peak, 
which  the  refraction  of  the  mist  caused  them  to  see  as  if  at 
a  very  great  height  over  their  heads.  The  theodolite  was 
innnediately  taken  down,  they  descended  from  the  little  point 
which  they  had  reached,  and  after  a  real  Al})ine  climl)  up  a  very 
narrow  ridge  over  a  ditficult  \)[toi'  arete,  about  1'2  feet  high  with 

25G 


MOUNT  CAGNl 


Further  Ascents  and  Work  at  Buionm)lo. 

insufficient  liaudliolds,  and  skirting  round  rocky  gendarmes  on 
their  smooth,  steep  sides,  they  reached  the  real  summit  about 
six  in  the  evening. 

The  mist  had  entirely  disappeared,  but  niglitfall  was  very 
near.  Commander  Cagni  liad  scarcely  time  to  take  observations 
of  all  the  peaks  with  the  compass.  They  came  down  in  tlie 
dark. 

On  the  following  morning  by  sunrise,  the  weather  being 
perfectly  clear,  Cagni  was  once  more  on  the  summit,  and  was 
able  to  take  measurements  of  all  the  angles  with  the  theodolite 
and  with  the  compass.  They  set  up  a  stone  man,  and  by  eight 
o'clock  they  were  preparing  to  return  when  the  first  mists  began 
to  rise.  They  came  back  by  the  same  way,  along  the  spur  to 
the  north  of  the  peak  and  tlien  down  into  the  little  valley 
to  the  west  of  it,  which  they  now  descended  to  the  point 
where  it  opens  into  the  Mobuku  Valley.  Here  the  mist,  which 
had  become  dense,  was  added  to  all  the  other  difficulties  of 
crossing  the  tangled  forest,  which  was  very  similar  to  the  one 
above  Kichuchu.      They  reached  Bujongolo  the  same  evening. 

Sella  was  there  alone,  waiting  for  Cagni's  Alpine  tent  to  set 
forth  upon  a  new  photographic  expedition.  The  Duke  had 
gone  up  to  Camp  I  upon  Mt.  Baker  that  very  day.  From 
this  point  on  the  following  day,  July  10th,  through  a  gully  to 
the  east  and  then  along  the  south  ridge,  he  reached  the 
Wollaston  Peak,  15,286  feet,  which  liad  not  as  yet  been 
ascended  by  any  member  of  the  expedition.  The  rocks  were 
covered  with  ice.  The  weather  was  clear,  and  lie  was  able 
to  take  observations  for  two  whole  hours.  Next,  following 
the  high  ridge,  he  traversed  to  the  Moore  Peak,  whence  he 
came  down  along  the  ridge  which  had  already  been  climbed 
by  Vittorio  Sella,  to  the  Grauer  Col,  and  so  back  to  Bujongolo. 

257  s 


Chapter  IX. 

Yittorio  Sella  had  set  forth  in  the  morning  with  Botta  and 
a  few  natives,  and  had  retm-ned  to  the  Freshfield  Pass.  He 
did  not  return  again  to  Bujongolo.  On  the  11th  of  July  he 
was  again  upon  the  Edward  Peak  at  sunrise,  and  was  at  last 
enabled  to  take  the  complete  panorama  of  the  chain  for  which 
he  had  once  waited  a  whole  week  in  vain  on  the  Freshfield 
Pass.  On  the  way  back  he  paid  a  visit  to  the  little  knob  some- 
what lower  down,  which  had  been  climbed  twice  by  Wollaston, 
whose  card  he  now  found  with  the  following  inscriptions  : 
"A.  F.  R  Wollaston,  R  B.  Woosnam,  17th  February,  1906. 
Height  by  aneroid   16,050  feet." 

"A.  F.  R.  Wollaston  (Alpine  Club),  R.  B.  Woosnam, 
D.  Carruthers  of  the  British  Museum  Expedition  to  Ruwenzori. 
Five  hours  from  Bujongolo.  Water  boil.  183'6  ;  temp,  of  air 
397  ;  aneroid   16,150  feet,  3rd  April,   1906." 

On  the  12th  of  July,  the  weather  remaining  fair,  Sella  again 
ascended  the  Stairs  Peak,  where  he  took  some  good  photograj)hs. 
In  the  meantime  Commander  Cao^ni  had  done  two  davs'  work 
in  finishing  the  mensuration  of  the  base  line  and  connecting  it 
with  Edward  and  Cagni  Peaks,  and  was  able  to  complete  an 
occultation,  fixing  the  longitude  and  tlie  latitude  of  one  of  its 
extremities. 

In  order  to  follow  the  intense  activity  of  all  the  different 
members  of  the  expedition  occupied  in  such  various  ways  and 
yet  directed  to  one  common  aim,  our  story  has  necessarily 
become  little  more  than  a  simple  list  of  facts  and  of  dates. 

After  the  return  of  the  expedition  to  Bujongolo,  the  leopard 
had  resumed  his  daring  visits  to  the  camp,  killing  sheep  and 
coming  close  to  the  fires  among  the  native  porters  to  steal 
the  meat.  Everyone  was  too  busy  to  heed  him.  But  the 
cook,    Igini,   with    Bulli,    planned   an    ambush    with    two    rifles 

258 


Further  Ascents  and  Work  at  Bujongolo. 

and  a  piece  of  meat.  One  night  the  splendid  animal  fell  into 
this  trap  and  was  killed  on  the  spot  with  two  l)alls  tlu'ougli 
its  skull. 

On  the  12th  of  Jnly,  tlie  Prince  was  ahle  to  consider  the 
work  of  the  expedition  as  ended.  On  the  7th,  Roccati,  who 
had  again  returned  to  the  Mohuku  Glacier  to  put  marks  of 
red  paint  on  the  rocks  at  the  limit  where  the  ice  stopped, 
and  who  had  finished  arranging  all  his  collections,  had 
already  left  Bujongolo  with  Cavalli  and  with  a  party  of 
Bakonjo  porters  carrying  a  portion  of  the  equipment,  hound 
for  Ibanda,  the  lowest  camp  iu  the  Mobuku   Valley. 

One  mountain  alone  remained  unclimbed,  namely, 
Mt.  Gessi,  and  the  Duke  was  not  in  a  mood  to  leave  it 
unattempted,  all  the  more  so  as  this  ascent  would  be 
connected  with  an  exploration  of  the  Bujuku  Valley  as  yet 
absolutely  unknown  and  worth  traversing  in  its  whole  length. 
A  party  of  Bakonjo  had  started  from  the  point  where  the 
Bujuku  Valley  opens  into  the  Mobuku  Valley  opposite 
Nakitawa,  and  had  already  cut  a  rough  track  as  far  as  the 
head  of  the  Valley. 

The  plan  was  now  for  the  Duke  to  descend  the  Bujuku 
Valley  with  Sella,  while  Cagni  was  to  direct  the  transport 
of  all  the  portion  of  the  equipment  which  was  still  at 
Bujongolo  down  the  Mobuku  Valley,  and  was  then  to  meet 
Cavalli  and  Iloccati  at  Ibanda  and  there  wait  for  the  Duke. 
Thus  Ibanda  became  the  general  rendezvous  for  the  whole 
expedition. 


259  s  - 


CHAPTER  X. 

Exploration  of  the  Bujuku  Valley  and  of  Mt.  Gessi. 
Eeturn  of  the  Expedition. 


Departure  from  Bujongolo — The  Camp  of  Ibanda — Visit  to  the  Glacier  Lake  of 
the  Mahoma  Valley — H.R.H.  leaves  Bujongolo — Lake  Bujuku — Descent  of  the 
Bujuku  Valley — The  Migusi  Valley — Ascents  of  the  Peaks  of  Mount  Gessi — 
The  Lower  Bujuku  Valley — The  Expedition  meets  at  Ibanda — Resume  of  the 
Mountaineering  Work  of  the  Expedition — Return  to  Fort  Portal — The  Volcanic 
Region  of  Toro — Some  Shooting — Arrival  at  Entebbe — The  Ripon  Falls — 
Departure  from  Africa — Sir  Henry  Stanley's  wish  realized. 

On  the  Lst  of  July,  immediately 
after  the  Duke  returned  to  Bujon- 
golo from  Mt.  Emin,  preparations 
had  been  commenced  for  leaving 
the  mountains  definitely,  and  had 
been  carried  on  durinir  the  intervals 
left  free  bv  the  vai'ied  work  of  the 
camp.  In  this  way  were  gradually 
prepared  the  loads  containing  the 
scientific  collections,  the  instru- 
ments, and  all  those  objects  wliich 
were  no  longer  necessary. 
They  had  at  their  disposal  some  forty  Bakonjo  porters  oidy, 
as  it  would  have  been  difficult  to  liave  provided  supplies  for  a 
greater  number  so  far  from  Ibanda.     It  was  therefore  necessary 

260 


^^^^^^^M^' 

B#'HI 

^■l  V  "^S 

^^^^^^K^r^W  ■■ 

l^ 

Bujukii  Valley. — Return  of  the  Expedition. 

to  cany  down  the  ec|iupnient  in  several  trips.  The  first  party 
of  porters  had  left  Bujongolo  on  the  4tli  July  with  forty  loads. 
On  the  7th  a  second  caravan  went  down,  accompanied  hy 
Roccati  and  by  Oavalli,  who  had  hastened  his  departure  when 
he  heard  that  there  were  porters  ill  in  various  camps  of  the 
valley,  a  report  which  proved  to  he  without  foimdation.  A 
week  later  Cagni  left  Bujongolo  with  Laurent  Petigax, 
Brocherel,  Igini,  and  twenty-three  natives  ;  the  Duke  had  left 
for  the  Bujuku  Valley  on  the  previous  day.  Finally,  on  the 
15th  of  July,  the  departure  of  Bulli  with  a  last  partv  of  thirtv 
Bakonjos  left  Bujongolo  deserted. 

All  were  satisfied  with  the  work  done,  and  were  in  fine 
spirits  at  the  prospect  of  returning  home,  and  left  without  a 
reffret  the  wild  rock  which  had  offered  them  shelter  durino-  five 
weeks.  They  were  glad  to  leave  behind  them  so  much  mud 
and  stones,  the  melancholy  vegetation  consumed  by  the 
mildews  and  lichens,  the  pallid  light  of  the  mists,  the 
everlasting  drip  of  the  rain,  the  damp  and  the  cold,  and  to 
get  back  to  the  sun  and  the  dry  heat  of  the  tropical  plains, 
the  life  and  the  colour,  the  cries  of  birds,  the  bright  flowers 
and  the  gay  crowd  of  thoughtless  and  noisy  Bagandas. 

The  Mobuku  River,  swollen  by  more  than  fifteen  days 
of  continuous  rains,  was  no  longer  recoofnizable.  It 
formed  magnificent  cascades  from  one  of  the  valley  terraces 
to  another.  At  every  step  on  their  way  down,  the  parties 
met  porters  on  their  way  up  to  Bujongolo  to  fetch  loads. 

A  month  before,  when  they  first  came  up  from  the  plain,  the 
valley  had  struck  them  as  almost  without  sound  of  animal 
life,  but  now,  after  weeks  spent  in  the  silence  of  the  mountains 
where  at  the  utmost  an  occasional  crow  hovered  overhead, 
they  were  impressed  by  every  buzzing  of  insects  or  fluttering 

261 


Chapter  X. 

of  wino;s.  Biliunga  had  become  an  important  centre.  It  was 
the  place  where  the  Bakonjo  porters  passed  on  the  loads  to 
the  Bao-anda  of  tlie  plain  who  had  again  been  concentrated 
at  Ibanda. 

Ibanda  had  now  become  a  big  permanent  camp.  The 
members  of  the  expedition,  as  they  arrived  from  Bnjongolo, 
were  received  bv  the  nei2:hbourinof  chieftains  with  the  usual 
ceremony  and  offering  of  gifts.  The  camp  had  become  the 
natural  meeting  place  foi-  all  the  inhabitants  of  the  surrounding 


Mi'  i 

[iA;A^  .A-^tA^  v^A.A..  ■ti.v. 

m^^. 

ISflp-*^ 

tr 

1 

^HH^H^^«*^^'                             Wttt^^^^^^L 

w' 

PORTERS    IN    CAMP,    AT   H^ANDA. 

villages.  Women  and  old  men  were  busy  rooting  out 
weeds  and  preparing  the  ground  to  construct  new  Inits 
near  the  tents.  From  morninp;  till  nipflit  there  was  a  racket 
and  ])ustle  ;  tliey  all  crowded  around  tlic  fires,  around  the 
kitchens,  around  the  barbers,  while  the  native  soldiers  wandered 
hither  and  thither  attempting  to  keep  a  little  order  in  the 
confusion.  The  river  was  generally  full  of  natives,  batliing 
and  disporting  tliemselves  in  the  water  with  great  enjoyment. 

2G2 


Bujuku  Valley. — Return  of  the  Exj)edition. 

Dr.  Cavalli  found  plenty  of  occupation,  and  was  })usy  for 
several  hours  every  day  with  the  sick  people  who  came  from 
far  and  near,  supported  or  carried  with  loving  care  by  their 
relations  or  friends.  While  undergoing  trifling  operations  they 
would  scream  and  weep,  and  immediately  after  laugh  like 
children. 

Commander  Caofni  undertook  a  series  of  mao-netic  observa- 
tions.  Dr.  Roccati  made  o;eoloo;ical  and  mineraloo^ical  excursions 
in  the  neio-hbourhood.  One  of  these  took  him  to  the  little 
lake  above  Nakitawa  where  the  Mahoma  Valley  opens  into 
the  Mobuku  Valley.  This  lakelet  had  been  observed  by 
Moore,  Johnston,  Dawe,  etc.  Mr.  Freshfield  calls  it  Lake 
Kobokora,  but  from  all  accounts  it  would  seem  that  no  one 
had  yet  actually  reached  it.  To  arrive  thither  from  Nakitawa, 
Roccati  had  to  pass  through  virgin  forest  without  any  track, 
while  the  Bakonjos  cut  the  way  with  axes  through  bamboos, 
lianas  and  heaths.  There  were  moraine  ridges  to  cross,  through 
an  undergrowth  so  dense  that  in  many  places  they  actually 
walked  upon  the  thickets,  on  an  elastic  cushion  of  branches  and 
twigs  several  feet  deep.  Now  and  again,  one  of  the  Bakonjo 
guides  would  climb  a  tree  to  get  his  bearings. 

Near  to  a  fallen  trunk  they  found  traces  of  an  old  camp 
fire,  a  bit  of  newspaper  and  a  sardine  tin,  no  doubtful  sign  of 
the  passage  of  a  preceding  explorer,  possibly  Dr.  Wollaston  or 
some  other  member  of  the  British  Museum  Expedition.  From 
this  point  they  reached  the  lakelet  in  one  hour.  It  is  plainly 
a  glacial  lake,  oval  in  shape,  and  running  from  south-east  to 
north-west,  with  steep  shores  and  surrounded  by  a  narrow  strip 
of  mud,  beyond  which  the  deep  water  begins  at  once.  There 
was  fog  round  about,  and  complete  silence,  with  no  sign  of 
animal    life.       Dr.     Roccati    collected     plants     and    zoological 

263 


Chapter  X. 

specimens  from  tlu^  mud  on  the  hanks.  Laurent  Petigax  and 
Brocherel  returned  later  to  tlie  lake  and  were  able  to  confirm 
the  observation  that  it  has  normally  no  emissaries. 

Wiiile  the  members  of*  the  expedition  were  thus  occupied  at 
Ibauda,  the  Duke  of  the  Abruzzi  was  completing  the  exploration 
of  the  mountains.  He  had  left  Bujongolo  on  the  morning  of 
the  13th  of  July  with  the  guides  Joseph  Petigax,  Oilier,  a  native 
soldier,  a  l)oy,  and  seventeen  native  porters  including  the  guide, 
a  tine  old  man  of  fifty  years.  At  the  Freshfield  Pass  he  was 
joined  by  Sella  and  Botta,  and  they  proceeded  together  as  far 
as  Camp  III  at  the  foot  of  the  western  slopes  of  Mt.  Baker. 

The  valley  of  the  lakes,  which  they  had  so  often  traversed 
in  rain  and  fog,  now,  on  this  fine  clear  day,  seemed  to  offer 
an  entirely  new  prospect.  The  sini,  however,  seems  almost  to 
strike  a  false  note  in  the  dense  and  melancholy  forest  of  senecios. 
The  helichrysums  seem  like  skeleton  flowers,  and  the  scene  is 
grim,  sad,  lifeless  and  brooded  over  by  an  oppressive  silence. 

On  the  following  day,  after  a  clear  sunrise,  the  air  again 
grew  dark  with  mists.  They  climbed  to  the  Scott  Elliot  Pass 
by  the  well-kno^^■n  way  and  set  forth  down  along  the  gully 
towards  the  Bujuku  Valley.  Those  who  went  ahead  were  in 
incessant  danger  of  being  hit  by  the  stones  which  the  numerous 
party  of  natives  kept  rolling  down,  in  spite  of  all  precautions. 

From  the  foot  of  the  gnlly,  in  a  very  short  space  of  time, 
after  crossing  the  grotesque  forest  of  senecio  mingled  with 
clumps  of  everlasting  flowers,  and  interrupted  at  one  point 
by  a  brief  marshy  tract  covered  witli  reeds,  they  reached 
the  shores  of  Lake  Bujuku  (12,855  feet),  a  splendid  slieet 
of  calm  water  upon  wliich  they  saw  a  few  duck.  Tiie 
view  of  the  peaks  of  Mt.  Stanley  and  Mt.  Baker  towering  al)ove 
them   with   their   grim   j)recipices  was,   beyond  all   comparison, 

l'G-4 


LAKE  BUJUKU  AND  MOUNT  STANLEY 


Bujuku  Valley. ^Return  of  the  Expedition. 

grander  than  the  mountain  .scenery  at  the  liead  of  the  Mohnkn 
Yahey. 

They  soon  discovered,  among  the  mosses  and  reeds  on  the 
shore  of  the  lake,  the  track  prepared  for  tliem  by  the  Bakonjo 
natives  across  tlie  gently  sloping  f)lain  of  the  upper  valley. 
This  plain  ends  in  a  gorge  formed  by  spurs  which  run 
down   from   the   Moore   Peak   of  Mt.  Baker   and   the   Johnston 


THE    BU.irKU    VALLEY. 

Peak  of  Mt.  Speke.  Here  there  is  a  short,  steep  barrier,  similar 
in  every  respect  to  those  which  intersect  the  Mobuku  Valley. 
They  now  had  a  sight  of  the  first  heaths  (12,297  feet),  mingled 
with  a  few  lobelias,  which  were  nearly  all  dead. 

Making   their  way  down,  now  on  tlie  right  hand  anil   now 
on  the  left  of  the  torrent,  they  reached  a  second  plain,  after 

265 


Chapter  X. 

which  the  valley  again  narrows  into  a  gorge  formed  by  the  north- 
ward prolongation  of  the  spin-  on  wliose  southern  extremity  I'ises 
the  Cagni  Peak.  This  spur  runs  so  far  across  the  valley  as 
almost  to  meet  the  lonu"  and  considerable  buttress  which 
stretches  from  Mt.  Speke  eastMard  and  forms  so  far  the  northern 
or  left  wall  of  the  valley.  Upon  the  ridge  of  this  spur  of 
Mt.  Speke  stands  the  extraordinary  monolith  of  rock,  with 
regular  and  architectural  lines,  which  had  been  one  of  tlie  first 
features  noticed  bv  tlieni  in   the  ascents  of  Mt.   Baker, 

The  way  leads  down  tlie  right  side  of  the  gorge,  which 
is  clothed  at  the  bottom  with  a  dense  forest  of  heaths,  which 
would  have  caused  them  to  waste  a  good  deal  of  time  had 
a  track  not  been  already  cut.  They  came  out  of  tliis  gorge 
upon  a  third  plain  of  more  ample  dimensions,  into  wliich  open 
several  trilnitary  valleys  from  the  north.  One  of  these  runs 
up  to  tlie  north-west  behind  tlie  east  spur  of  Mt.  Speke,, 
and  at  its  head  forms  the  narrow  gorge  between  Mt.  Emin 
and  Mt.  Gessi.  This  is  the  Migusi  Valley.  Two  more 
valleys,  divided  by  a  minor  ridge,  are  traversed  by  the 
torrent  Kurungu,  which  springs  from  a  little  lake  fed  by 
the  lolanda  Glacier  of  Mt.  Gessi,  and  the  Waigga  which 
also  flows  from  a  lake  at  the  foot  of  the  North  Portal. 

On  reaching  this  plain,  they  encamped  in  a  suitable 
place  (11,503  feet),  near  a  sheltering  rock  at  the  foot  of  a 
spur  on  the  riglit  side  of  the  valley  in  a  clearing  of  the  forest 
all  full  of  blossoming  helichrysum.  The  spot  was  lovely,  the 
slopes  of  the  valley  clad  witli  dense  forest,  while  before  them 
towered  up  the  rocky  peaks  of  the  North  Portal. 

This  Camp,  marked  No.  IX  on  the  map,  was  their  starting 
point  for  the  ascent  of  Mt.  Gessi,  the  last  mountain  still 
left  unclimbed. 

266 


Biijuku  Valley. — Return  of  the  Expedition. 

On  the  morning  of  the  15th,  the  Duke,  with  two  guides  and 
a  few  native  porters  crossed  the  plain  to  the  north,  steering 
towards  a  depression  on  the  ridge  to  the  north  of  the  valley 
which  runs  down  from  Mt.  Speke.      This  depression  he  reached 


CAMP    IX,    BUJUKU   VALLEY. 

by  ascending  up  a  small  lateral  valley  skirting  the  side  in  order 
to  avoid  the  dense  brush.  From  the  ridge  they  went  down  into 
the  Migusi  Valley  and  followed  for  some  distance  the  tracks  of  a 
leopard,  which  had  made  its  way  through  the  thickets. 

267 


Chapter  X. 

The  Mio'usi  Valley  is  also  foriiied  of  a  series  of  successive 
terraces.  They  ascended  first  one  rise  and  then  another,  and 
finally  reached  a  slightly  inclined  plain  leading  to  the  head 
of  the  valley  where  the  narrow  gorge  between  Mts.  Emin 
and  Gessi  begins.  They  skirted  the  plain  and  ascended  the 
right  slope  of  the  valley  to  a  point  not  far  from  the  end 
of  the  lolanda  Glacier.  All  of  the  Bakonjo  were  marching 
remarkably  well.  Tlie  hardest  work  was  for  the  guides,  who 
had  to  cut  a  path  through  the  dense  thickets  of 
brush. 

Camp  X  (13,GG8  feet)  was  set  up  close  to  the  ancient 
moraine,  only  a  few^  hundred  yards  from  the  present  face  of 
the  glacier,  ^\-llich  ends  in  broken  seracs  on  the  brow  of  a  cliff. 
The  senecios  and  helichrysums  climl)  up  a  little  higher  than 
the  point  wliere  the  camp  was  fixed.  The  view  from  this 
higli  level  over  the  great  amphitheatre  of  moimtains  is  one 
of  the  finest  panoramas  of  the  whole  Ruwenzori  range. 

On  the  mornino;  of  the  1 6th  there  was  hard  frost  all  around 
the  camp.  The  start  was  made  before  daybreak.  First  they 
ascended  a  gully  overhung  by  the  terminal  seracs  of  the 
lolanda  Glacier.  Then  they  crossed  the  rocks  to  the  right 
of  the  gully  and  reached  the  snow%  and  then  the  south-east 
ridge  of  the  mountain.  At  6.30  a.m.,  the  Duke  set  foot 
upon  the  rocky  sunnnit  of  the  lolanda  Peak  (15,647  feet). 
1  he  rope  had  not  been  used  in  the  ascent.  Oilier  began  at  once 
to  build  a  monumental  stone  man. 

The  weather  liad  l)een  threatening  when  they  set  forth,  l)ut 
had  now  become  quite  clear,  and  the  view  of  the  mountains  was 
complete  in  every  detail,  so  that  the  Duke  was  able  to  make  one 
more  photographic  panorama  of  the  entire  range.  In  this  way 
the   whole   chain   was  photographed  in   panoramas   taken   from 

2GS 


PANORAMA    TAKEN   FROM  JOLAXDA    PliAK.   MOUNT  GESSI 


3 


Bujuku  Vcillev. — Return  of  the  Ex])edition. 

either  extremity  of  the  irregular  semi-circle  wliicli  forms  its 
main  contour,  i.e.,  from  Stairs  Peak  of  Mt.  Luigi  di  Savoia, 
and  from  the  lolanda  Peak  of  Mt.  Gessi.  In  addition  to  these 
w^e  have  a  panorama  taken  from  the  Edward  Peak,*  and 
another  from  Grauer's  Kock.  Before  them,  at  a  short  distance, 
stood  the  jagged  rock  ridge  of  Mt.  Emin.  To  the  south  of 
Mt.   Emin  came  Mt.  Speke  with  the   great  Vittorio  Emanuele 


MT.    GESSI    FROM     THE   EDWARD   PEAK   OF   ISIT.    ]!AKER. 

Glacier,  which  is  better  seen  from  Mt.  Gessi  than  from  any- 
other  point.  Behind  this  glacier  towers  the  terminal  ridge  of 
Margherita  Peak,  showing  its  ample  north-west  shoulder. 
Further  south  the  whole  of  Mt.  Baker  is  visible,  witli  its 
wild  precipice  descending  straight  to  the  Bujuku  Valley.     To 

*  Not  reproduced  in  this  work. 
269 


Chapter  X. 

the  east  of  Mt.  Baker,  the  Cagui  Peak  is  visible  behind  a 
whole  series  of  spurs, 

Mt.  Gessi  joins  tlie  North  Portal  to  the  south-east  by  a 
lono-  ridge.  To  all  appearances  the  watershed  ridge  proceeds 
from  the  North  Portal  alono;  a  series  of  ridp-es  in  a  north- 
easterly  direction,  so  that  the  water  whicli  collects  on  the 
eastern  slopes  of  Mt.  Gessi  would  flow  ultimately  into  the 
Semliki  Valley. 

The  Duke  stopped  a  long  time  on  the  summit,  so  as  to  enjoy 
a  last  view  of  this  splendid  display  of  mountains  and  glaciers, 
which  had  no  longer  any  secrets.  Next,  following  the  snow 
ridge,  he  ascended  Bottego  Peak,  which  is  164  feet  below 
lolanda  Peak,  in  half  an  hour.  The  panorama  is  much  the 
same.  A  little  lake  was  visil)le  in  a  narrow  valley  which 
runs  down  to  the  nortli  of  tlie  Cavalli  Pass  between  Mt.  Gessi 
and  Mt.   Emin. 

From  the  north-east  and  north  sides  of  Mt.  Emin  three 
little  glaciers  flow  down.  The  whole  west  side  of  Mt.  Gessi  is 
taken  up  by  a  glacier,  while  the  east  side  is  naked  rock. 

They  returned  by  the  same  route,  exce})t  that  on  reaching 
the  guUv  they  kept  along  its  side  instead  of  following  the 
bottom,  in  order  to  avoid  tlie  danger  of  avalanches  from  the 
seracs  of  lolanda  Glacier.  Before  midday  they  once  more 
reached  the  tent  which  tliey  liad  left  in  the  morning.  After 
a  brief  halt  they  set  forth  again,  and  came  rapidly  down  to 
Camp  IX  in  the  Bujuku   Valley. 

During  the  whole  excursion  the  strange  monolith  upon  the 
spur  which  divided  the  Bujuku  Valley  from  the  Migusi  Valley 
had  always  l)een  in  sigiit.  Sella  was  so  attracted  by  its  strange 
appearance  that  he  liad  given  up  accompanying  the  Prince  up 
Mt.   Gessi  on  purpose  to  examine  it  more  closely. 

270 


THE   BUJUKU   TORRENT. 


O 


Bujukii  Valley. — Eeturn  of  the  Expedition. 

He  set  out  with  Botta  on  the  moriiiiig-  of  tlie  iotij,  and 
coming  back  to  the  second  terrace  of  the  valley  proceeded  to 
ascend  the  spur  to  the  north,  among  giant  heaths  and  sin-ubs 
of  everlasting  flower,  over   extremely  broken  ground,  skirting 


(ilAXT    ritKK    IX    TIIK    I.oWEK    BlMFKr    WM.I.KV. 

huge  blocks,  climbing  upon  fallen  tree  trunks  covered  witli 
moss  and  concealing  deep  holes.  The  fog  surrounded  tliem 
before  they  liud  reached  a  point  sufHciently  higli  to  get  a. 
clear  view  of  tlic   moiKtlitli. 

273  T 


Chapter  X. 

On  the  following  day  they  were  ahle  to  approach  much 
nearer.  Here  a  disappointment  awaited  Sella,  for  the  monolith 
proved  to  be  a  very  commonplace  pinnacle  of  rock  which  had 
received  from  its  isolated  position  on  a  ridge  an  appearance 
of  being  much  more  grand  than  was  actually  the  case.  He 
came  back  to  Camp  IX  Ijy  night,  a  few  hours  later  than 
the  Duke. 

On  the  17th  tliey  proceeded  to  descend  the  valley  under 
a  clouded  sky   but   without  rain    or    fog.       They  crossed    the 


IBANDA. 


terrace  which  forms  the  meeting  point  of  the  Bujuku,  Migusi 
;and  Kurungu  Valleys.  This  is  probably  an  ancient  lake 
bottom,  and  is  now  completely  covered  with  reeds.  They 
skirted  its  left  slope  on  uneven  ground  scattered  with  little 
grassy  hillocks.  They  now  reached  the  third  rise  followed 
by  a  long  gorge  running  l)etween  the  two  South  Portals. 


Biijuku  Valley. — Return  of  the  Expedition. 

Here  the  valley  heiids  slightly  southward  and  the  descent 
becomes  steeper.  They  followed  the  left  side  of  tiie  river, 
which  falls  in  rapids  and  noisy  cataracts.  A  little  below  the 
plain  the  senecios  come  to  an  end,  but  the  lobelias  continue 
(Stuhlmanni  and  Deckenni). 

After  crossing  the  Manureggio,  which  is  a  tributary  of  the 
Bujuku  and  flows  into  it  from  the  left,  they  entered  a  region  of 


BAGAXDA   VILLAGE. 


giant  grass  which  grows  like  a  bed  of  reeds  between  the  heaths, 
and  covers  on  every  side  the  steep  declivities  dotted  with  huge, 
boulders  and  intersected  by  a  mass  of  little  irregular  gorges. 

The  natives  had  made  a  path  by  simply  trampling  down  the 
long  thick  stalks,  which  form  an  elastic  surface  where  you  slip, 
sink  in,  and  stumble  at  every  step. 

Camp  XI  (9,547  feet)  was  placed  below  the  gorge  of  the 
Portals.       They  now   found  themselves  once  more  in  the  true 


!70 


T   2 


Chapter  X. 

forest  among  huge  trees,  tine  podocarpus,  entwined  with  hanas 
and  bamboo  thickets.  There  were  no  more  senecio  nor  lobeha. 
Troops  of  monkeys  disported  themselves  in  the  branches,  and 
the  air  was  full  of  tlie  sono-  of  birds. 

In  the  eveniiii;-  it  beo'an  to  rain  for  the  first  time  after  ten 
days  of  dry  weather.      It  was  the  only  considerable  period  of 


CHATER    LAKE    KAlTAlJAlKXiA,    XEAU    FORT   PORTAL. 

good    weather   that   the   expedition   had  met   A\itli    among   the 
mountains. 

On  the  following  day  they  descended  by  a  ])ath  wliicli  orew 
better  and  better,  keeping  upon  the  left  bank  of  the  stream. 
On  reaching  the  bottom  of  tlie  valley  they  turned  southward, 
traversing  the  Bujuku  and  a  small  atHuent,  and  made  straight 
for  the  Mobuku  Avhere  they  found  a  rough  bridge  of  bamboos. 

i'7G 


Bujnku  Valley.— Return  of  the  Expedition. 

Soon  after  they  reached  the  fauiihar  track  down  the  Molniku 
Valley  and  climbed  the  moraine  of  Nakitawa.  Two  hours  more 
brought  them  to  Bihunga  and  two  more  to  Thanda,  where  the 
whole  expedition  was  now  assembled. 

The  Duke  of  the  Alwuzzi  had  now  fulfilled  the  task  which 
he  had  undertaken  ;  his  untiring  energy,  seconded  Ijy  the  zeal 


JACK   AGAIN    ox    THE   SHORES    OF   l.AKE   VICTOItlA. 


and    ability  of  his    companions,   had   brought    the    exploration 
of  Piuwenzori  to  completion. 

I  have  put  together  in  talnilar  form  a  list  ()f  all  the  ascents 
of  the  Ruwenzori  Peaks  made  by  the  members  of  the  Italian 
expedition  between  the  10th  of  June  and  the  16th  of  July.  This 
table  shows  the  mountaineering'  work  done  l)y  the  expedition. 


Chapter  X. 


Table  of  Ascents  in  the  Ri'wenzori  Range  made  by  the  Expedition 
OF  H.R.H.  THE  Duke  of  the  Abkuzzi  in  the  Months  of  June  and 
July,  1906. 


Mountain. 

Peak. 

Height 

above 

sea-level. 

Date. 

By  wliom  climbed. 

Route  followed. 

Stanley 

Margherita 

16,815 

June  18 

H.R.H.  the  Duke 
of  the  Abruzzi 

Guides:  J.  Peti- 
gax,        Oilier, 
and  Brocherel 

From  the  col 
between  Alex- 
a  n  d  r  a  and 
jNIargherita 
Peaks. 

Alexandra  . . . 

16,749 

June  18 

H.R.H.  the  Duke 
of  the  Abruzzi 

Guides :  J.  Peti- 
gax,        Oilier, 
and  Brocherel 

By  the  Eastern 
Ridge. 

June  20 

H.R.H.  the  Duke 

of  the  Abruzzi 

5J 

June  22 

U.    Cagni    and 
A.  Cavalli       ' 

)> 

June  26 

V.  Sella 

51 

June  27 

V.     Sella      and 
A.  Roccati 

5' 

Elena 

16,388 

June  20 

H.R.H.theDuke 

of  the  Al»ruzzi 

Guides:  J.  Peti- 

gax,        Oilier, 

and  Brocherel 

By  an  Eastern 
Gully. 

Moc'ljius     ... 

June  25 

V.     Sella     and 
A.  Roccati 

Guides :       Bro- 
cherel and  Botta 

By  the  Eastern 
Ridge. 

Savoia 

16,339 

June  20 

H.KH.theDuke 

of  the  Abruzzi 
Guides:  J.  Peti- 
gax,  Oilier  and 
Brocherel 

Traversed. 

The  mountains  are  given  in  order  of  height.     Guides  are  mentioned  in  first  ascents  only. 

278 


Bnjuku  Valley.  —  Keturn  of  the  Expedition. 


Table  of  Ascents  i\  the  Kiwenzoki  Range  made  ijv  the  Kxi'kditkjn 
OF  H.E.H.  the  Duke  of  the  Ap.kuzzi,  in  the  months  of  June  ano 
July,  1906 — continued. 


Mountain. 

Peak. 

Height 

above 

sea-level. 

Date.          Hj  whom  climbed.       Route  followed. 

Speke   ... 

Vittorio          I 
P^nianuele; 

16,080 

1 

1 

June  23      H.E.H.  the  Duke    From  the  West, 
of  the  Al)ruzzi 
Guides :  J.  Peti- 
gax  and  Oilier 

Johnston    . . . 

15,906 

—          Xot  climbed.        j 

Baker  ... 

Edward 

15,988 

June  10 

July     2 
July     5 

H.E.H.  the  Duke    From      Grauer 

of  the  Abruzzi       Col. 
Guides:  J.  Peti- 

gax,        Oilier, 

and  Brocherel 

V.  Sella             ...:  From        Fresh- 
field  Col. 
H.E.H.  the  Duke 
of  the  Abruzzi 

July     7 

H.E.H.  the  Diike 
of  the  Abruzzi 

)5 

July  11 

Y.  Sella 

„ 

Semper 

15,843 

June  10 

H.E.H.  the  Duke    From      Grauer 

of  the  Abruzzi  |     Col. 
Guides:  J.  Peti-  1 

gax,        Oilier,  \ 

and  Brocherel 

Wollastoii  ... 

15,286 

July  10 

H.E.H.  the  Duke    By   a    Western 
of  the  Al)ruzzi       Gully  and  the 

Guides :     Oilier       South  Eidge. 
and  L.  Petigax 

Moore 

15,269 

June  12 

Y.  Sella 

Guides :       Bro- 
cherel         and 
Botta 

From-    Grauer 
Col. 

July  10 

H.R.H.  the  Duke 
of  the  Abruzzi 

Traversed. 

The  ir 

oimtaini'  arc  irive 

n  in  order  o 

f  heicht.     G 

uide^  are  mentioned  ii 

1  first  ascents  onlv. 

279 


Chapter  X. 


Table  of  Ascexts  in  tiik  Kiwexzori  Kanke  made  p.y  the  Expeditidn 
OF  H.R.H.  THE  Duke  of  the  Ar.iazzi,  ix  the  moxths  of  Juxe  axd 
July,   1906 — continued. 


Mountain. 


Peak. 


Emin 


Umlierto 


Gessi 


Kraepelin 
lolanda 


Botteso 


Luigi   di     Weismann , 
Savoia 

Sella 


Stairs 


Caeni 


Height 

above 

sea-level. 


Date. 


Bv  whom  c-liinbi.'d.    j     Route  followed. 


15,797  !  June  28     H.R.H.  theDuke    By   the   South- 
of  the  Abruzzi       West  Ridge. 
Guides :  J.  Peti- 
gax,    L.    Peti- 
gax  and  Oilier 


15,752 


Not  climhed. 


15,647     July  16  H.R.H.  the  Duke    Traversed. 

j  ,     of  the  Al)ruzzi 

j  Guides  :  J.  Peti- 

'  gax  and  Oilier 

15,483  i  July  16  H.R.H.  the  Duke    By    the    South 

1  of  the  Aliruzzi       Ridge. 

Guides :  J.  Peti- 

'  eax  and  Oilier 


15,299  1        — 
15,286      July     4 


Not  clim1»efl. 


15,059 


June  19 


July   8 


V.  Sella 

Guides  : 

cherel 

Botta 


Bro- 
and 


By  a  W.  Gully 
and  the  North 
Ridge. 


V.     Sella     and     By  the  Western 
A.        Roccati,       Ridge, 
without  guides 

H.R.H.  the  Duke 
of  the  A])ruzzi 


14,826 


July  12  j  V.  Sella 

July     8  i  U.  Cagni 

[  Guides  :  J.  Peti- 
!     gax   and    Bro- 
cherel 

July     9  I  U.  Cagni 


By  the  Northern 
Ridge. 


The  mountains  are  given  in  order  of  height.     Guides  are  mentioned  in  first  ascents  only. 

280 


Biijuku  Valley. — Tveturn  of  the  Expedition. 

It  took  the  expedition  two  days  to  reach  Fort  Portal 
from  Ibauda.  Kuwenzori  was  again  enveloped  in  its  usual 
impenetrable  veil  of  clouds  and  mists  and  they  saw  it  no 
more.  They  were  now  again  in  the  suflbcating  heat  of  the 
plain,  among  the  noisy  crowd  of  porters  and  the  familiar 
scenes  of  native  villages  witli  their  plantain  groves,  and 
again  received  at  each  stage  by  the  chieftains  with  all  the 
ceremonial  of  African  etiquette. 

At  Fort  Portal  the  English  officials,  King  Kasagama 
with  his  court,  and  the  missionaries  rivalled  one  another  in 
hospitality  and  courtesy  toward  H.R.H.  and  his  companions. 

While  they  were  here,  E-occati  went  with  Sella  upon  a 
geological  and  photographic  excursion  to  the  craters  and  the 
crater  lakes  of  the  volcanic  region  of  Toro.  The  shores  of 
these  lakes  are  covered  with  a  dense  vegetation  of  palms, 
dracenas,  and  euphorbia,  which  are  mirrored  in  the  water, 
while  the  water  itself,  the  air  and  the  wood  swarm  with  an 
incredibly  rich  animal  life,  protected,  perhaps,  by  the  super- 
stition which  causes  the  natives  to  shun  these  craters  as  haunts 
of  wizards  and  of  evil  spirits. 

In  the  meantime,  the  Duke  with  Cagni  and  Cavalli,  joined 
later  by  Sella,  made  some  shooting  excursions. 

It  was  now  the  dry  and  less  favourable  season.  It  was 
impossible  to  penetrate  the  dense  grasses  which  formed  walls 
on  either  side  of  the  paths  and  hid  the  surrounding  country. 
Every  night  round  Fort  Portal  the  district  was  lit  up  with 
the  red  o-lare  of  the  fires,  which  burned  miles  and  miles  of 
dry  grass. 

In  the  beo-inninp-  of  August  the  time  came  for  their 
departure.  Messrs.  Knowles  and  Haldane  accompanied  them 
from    Fort     Portal.       Notwithstanding    the    frequent    storms, 

281 


Chapter  X. 

there  were  field  fires  in  every  direction,  which  even  became 
a  source  of  danger  to  the  camps  when  the  wind  blew  that 
way.  Whole  districts  were  quite  bare  and  covered  with 
ashes. 

On  tlie  7th  of  August,  the  expedition  crossed  the  frontier 
between  Toro  and  Uganda.  Here  it  was  met  by  Major 
Wyndham.  The  native  porters  seemed  very  impatient  to 
get  home  and  marched  fast  with  few  halts.  The  stages  were 
differently  distributed  and  the  camps  were  set  up  in  places 
where  they  had  not  stopped  on  the  journey  up. 

A  halt  was  made  at  Byndia,  as  previously  at  Kichiomi  in 
the  Kingdom  of  Toro,  for  the  j)urpose  of  making  a  series  of 
magnetic  observations. 

On  the  14th  of  Auo;ust,  thev  at  last  reached  the  shores  of 
Lake  Victoria.  The  discipline  of  the  caravan  had  become 
somewhat  relaxed  dining  the  last  days,  and  9,t  every  moment 
there  were  rows,  disputes,  and  quarrels  between  the  porters. 

They  had  chosen  a  more  direct  route  to  return,  and  reached 
the  banks  of  the  lake  just  opposite  the  extreme  end  of  the 
peninsula  upon  which  Entebbe  is  situated.  Here  native  canoes 
were  ready  in  sufficient  numbers  to  carry  the  whole  party. 

While  the  boats  were  being  prepared  and  loaded,  they 
lunched  upon  the  bank  of  the  lake  in  the  shade  of  lofty 
trees.      They  reached  Entebbe  in  the  early  afternoon. 

After  a  week  spent  in  packing  the  luggage  winch  was  to 
be  carried  back  to  Italy,  and  during  which  time  they  were 
entertained  with  the  greatest  hospitality  and  kindness  by  all 
the  European  residents,  the  expedition  left  Entebbe,  with  its 
crowd  of  islands  and  its  flowery  shores,  upon  the  steamer 
StbijI. 

They  stopped  at  Jinja  to  visit  the  famous  llipon  Falls,  which 

282 


1 

1 

1 

1  M     'F'-S^^^^l 

Bajuku  Valley. — Return  of  the  Expedition. 

form  the  origin  of  the  Victoria  Nile.  Here  they  made  an 
excursion  in  long  native  canoes  upon  the  dark  green  waters  of 
the  river  swarming  with  birds.  On  the  24th  they  reached 
Port  Florence,  and  left  the  same  day  by  train. 

On  the  28th  of  August  the  Italian  expedition  left  African 
soil  upon  the  steamer  Natal  of  the  French  Messageries. 

Five  months  later,  before  a  largely  attended  meeting  of 
the  Roval  Geographical  Society,  honoured  by  the  presence  of 
H.M.  King  Edward  VTT.,  H.R.H.  the  Duke  of  the  Abruzzi 
srave  an  account  of  his  discoveries,  demonstratinu-  that  he  had 


HEAD   OF   THE   VICTORIA    XIl.E. 


brought  about  the  realization  of  the  wish  expressed  five  years 
before  by  Sir  Henry  M.  Staidey  before  the  same  Society  :  "  The 
dear  wish  that  some  person  devoted  to  his  work,  some  lover  ot 
Alpine  climbing,  would  take  Ruwenzori  in  hand  and  make  a 
thorough  work  of  it,  explore  it  from  top  to  bottom,  through  all 
those  enormous  defiles  and  those  deep  gorges." 

Alas  !  the  great  explorer  died  two  years  and  a-lialf  ago,  and 
never  saw  his  wish  fulfilled. 

285 


Addendum. 


[This  book  was  already  in  print  when  Mr.  A.  F.  R.  WoUaston 
brought  out  his  vahiable  book  ("  From  Riiwenzori  to  the 
Congo,"  London,  John  Murray,  pubHshed  in  September,  1908), 
in  which,  among  other  matters,  he  describes  his  cHmbs  in  the 
Ruwenzori  chain.  I  have  already  dealt  with  his  interesting 
mountaineering  work  in  Chapters  I  and  VII,  in  my  sketch  of 
the  history  of  the  exploration  of  Ruwenzori  before  H.R.H.  the 
Duke  of  the  Abruzzi.] 


286 


The  Appendices  have  been  translated  by  Prof.  A.  H.  Keane, 

LL.D.,  F.R.G.8. 


APPENDIX    A. 


Dr.    LUIGI   HUGUES. 


THE     MOUXTAIXS     OF     THE     MOOX     OF 

PTOLEMY'S    GEOGRAPHY    AND    THE 

KUWEXZOPvI    EAXGE. 


THE    MOUNTAINS    OF    THE    MOON    OF    PTOLEMY'S 
GEOGRAPHY  AND  THE  RUWENZOKI  RANGE. 

Ix  Claudius  Ptolemy's  Geography  (Book  IV, 
chap.  8)  we  read  as  follows :  "  At  the 
southern  latitude  of  12'  30',  and  between 
the  longitudes  of  57'  and  67',  there  rises  the 
^lountaiu  of  the  Moon,  whose  snows  feed  the 
lakes,  sources  of  the  Nile." 

As  under  the  latitude  specified  by  the 
Geographer  there  is  no  high  land  in  equatorial 
Africa  that  is  elevated  enough  to  be  described 
as  snowy,  and  still  less  as  rising  above  the 
line  of  perpetual  snows,  and  as,  moreover, 
a  latitude  lying  so  far  to  the  south  would 
place  such  a  high  land  cpxite  beyond  the 
upper  basin  of  the  Nile,  the  suspicion  is  not 
without  justification  that  several  geographers  have  raised  that  the  mention  of 
the  .Mountain  (or  of  the  Mountains)  of  the  Moon  does  not  come  directly  from 
Ptolemy,  but  is  an  interpolation  foisted  into  his  Geography  by  some  Arab 
writer.  This  view  is  held  by  Cooley,  who,  in  his  Ptolemy  and  the  Nile,  published 
in  1854,  thus  expresses  himself:  "Ptolemy  is  a  very  methodical  writer,  and 
divides  his  Geography  into  chapters,  each  describing  some  natural  zone  or 
region,  and  containing  connected  information.  Had  he  known  that  the  lakes 
of  the  Nile  were  filled  from  the  snows  of  mountains  further  south,  he  would,  in 
conformity  with  his  general  method,  have  included  these  ultimate  sources  in  his 
account  of  the  river.  Now  the  Mountains  of  the  Moon  are  not  mentiimed  in 
the  chapter  which  treats  of  the  Nile  (}),  Imt  in  a  separate  and,  as  it  were, 
supplementary  chapter,  containing  matters  avowedly  obscure  and  little  known, 
and  even  there  they  are  mentioned  not  directly,  but  in  an  oblique  manner,  and 
with  a  very  suspicious  gloss."  (-) 

Note. — Tiio  figures  in  brackets  in  the  text  refer  to  the     note*  printed  at  the  end  of 
thi»  Appendix. 


289 


A])])endix    A. 

Dr.  Ileiurifh  Kiepert  also  appears  lu  accept  the  same  view  where  he  writes 
ill  his  Treatise  on  Ancient  Geof/raphi/ :  "The  expression  'Blue  Mountains 
(Jibel  gomr),  given  l)y  the  Arabs  to  those  great  mountain  masses  (Kenia, 
Kilimanjaro  and  others),  seen  only  from  afar,  and  indistinctly,  has  long  been 
wrongly  interpreted  in  the  sense  of  '  Moiuitains  of  the  Moon  '  (Jibel-el-Qamar), 
and  thus  gave  rise  to  the  translation  i:<,\/;/';/v  o/,t,s-  which  is  given  on  Ptolemy's 
map,  and  to  an  error  which  the  lecent  exploiations  in  that  regit)n  of  Africa 
have  banished  from  our  maps  and  from  our  books."  (•^)  "  The  strange  name  of 
Mountains  of  the  Moon,"  says  I'lof.  AUVed  Kirchhoff,  "is  due  probably  to  an 
interchange  of  two  Arab  terms  or  to  the  twofold  meaning  of  one  and  the  same 
term."  (•*)  And,  in  fact,  the  Aral*  writer  el-Nowaii'i,  quoted  l)y  Masudi,  asserts 
that  Kamar  (read  Qamar)  means  both  moDn  and  ir/iife.  And  in  this  connection 
it  will  not  be  beside  the  question  to  note  that  Aristotle  had  already  placed  the 
sources  of  the  Nile  in  a  '  Silvei'  Mountain'  (Wfr/i'ipeov  o/jo?).  ("')  This  Silver 
Mountain  has  a  striking  analogy  with  the  White  Mountain  of  the  mediivval 
Aral  I  wi'itci's.  an  analogy  which  suggests  some  important  and  sensible  I'cflections 
to  Vivien  de  Saint-Martin.  ('') 

If  the  mention  of  the  Mountains  of  the  .Moon,  or  else  of  the  A\'hite 
Mountains  (?)  is  of  Arab  origin,  which,  besides  the  stated  reasons,  might  also  be 
sh(»wn  to  be  probable  from  the  fact  that  no  allusion  to  that  lofty  range  is  made 
in  the  edition  of  Ptolemy's  (Geography  issued  by  Donis  in  1482,  (")  the  latitude 
12°  30'  S.  would  have  been  inserted  in  the  text  to  bring  it  into  accord 
with  the  position  assigned  by  the  Alexanch-ian  (Geographer  to  the  two  lakes, 
sources  of  the  Nile.  And  respecting  these  lakes,  here  is  what  we  gather 
from  the  seventh  chapter  of  PJook  IV  : — 

The  western  lake  has  latitude  (south)  6'  and  longitude  oT'  ;  the  eastern  is 
at  latitude  (south)  7°  and  longitude  65°.  The  rivers  issuing  fiom  these  two 
lakes  unite  at  north  latitude  2  and  under  the  60th  meridian,  and  they  thus 
iorm  the  chief  ]»ranch  of  the  Nile,  which  at  north  latitude  2  and  undei'  the 
61st  meridian  receives  the  Kiver  Astapus,  emissary  fi-oiii  Lake  Coloe,  wliirh  lies 
on  the  equinoxial  line  and  under  the  69tli  degree  of  longitude. 

It  is  quite  understood  that  the  Ptolemaic  data  referi'ing  to  geographical 
features  are  not  to  be  taken  literally.  The  nuinbei-  of  astronomic  ol»servations 
at  the  command  of  Ptolemy  was  very  limited  ;  the  results  of  those  few  observa- 
tions, especially  for  the  longitudes,  were  nearly  all  very  far  from  the  actual. 
To  accomplish  the  gigantic  work  that  he  had  undertaken,  no  better  means 
occurred  to  the  (Geographer  than  that  of  reducing  to  astronomic  data  the 
elements  distances  and  directions  deiived  from  the  itineraiies  l»oth  l»y  land 
anil    water,  or  alr-eady  known  from  previous  works,  amongst  which,   first  and 

290 


The   lUnveiizori  ]{an<re 


?r« 


foremost,  was  that  i»t  his  immt'diate  preeiirsui',  Mariuus  of  Tyre,  or  else  thuse 
gathered  hy  himself  from  the  more  or  less  accurate  reports  of  travellers  and 
seafarers.  {^)  All  can  see  how  defective  such  a  method  must  be.  From  the 
early  itiueraries  traced  without  compass  in  determining  the  directions,  without 
chronometers  for  the  interv'als  of  time  and  distances,  and  without  sufficient 
knowledge  of  the  marine  and  atmospheric  currents,  it  was  obviously  impossible 
to  obtain  other  than  quite  hypothetic,  and  for  the  most  part  onl\'  roughly 
approximate  results.  (")  The  reduction  of  the  roiite  distances  to  astronomic 
notations  (degrees  and  fractious  of  degrees)  was  nia<le  by  I'tolemy  with  the 
stadium  unit  equivalent  to  the  500th  part  of  the  equatorial  degree.  ('")  But 
we  know  that  those  routes  were  based  on  a  different  unit  of  measui-e,  namely, 
the  Olympic  stadium  of  600  to  the  equatorial  degree.  Hence,  if  for  instance, 
it  was  a  question  of  an  itinerary  of  3,000  stadia  (in  the  direction  uf  the 
meridian),  the  inimlier  of  corresponding  degrees  would  l)e  5  of  latitude 
according  to  the  Olympic  measure,  while  according  to  Ptolemy  it  came  to  6'. 
And  in  general,  to  obtain  the  true,  or  the  approximately  true,  differences  of 
latitudes  and  longitudes,  we  have  to  multiply  by  |  those  given  by  the 
Geographer,  or,  which  is  the  same  thing,  reduce  them  by  ^.  At  the  same  time 
this  single  operation  is  very  far  from  sufficing  to  introduce  any  accuracy  into 
the  Ptolemaic  tables.  It  cannot  be  asserted  in  the  first  place  that  all  the 
itineraries  without  exception  were  recorded  in  Olympic  stadia ;  nor  is  the 
possiliility  to  be  excluded  that  for  some  of  them  the  stadiimi  of  P>atosthenes 
of  700  to  the  equatorial  degree  was  taken  as  the  unit  :  in  which  case  the 
reduction  should  be  by  -?.  Moreover,  in  a  great  many  cases  there  occur  errors 
of  another  nature,  amongst  which  outstanding  are  those  derived  from  the 
imperfect  knowledge  possessed  by  the  ancients  of  many  places  and  countries, 
from  the  inevitable  inaccuracies  in  the  calculation  of  distances  and  in 
determining  the  relative  positions,  from  the  windings  of  the  route  followed  and 
so  on.  Despite  of  all  this  it  is  remarkable,  not  to  say  absolutely  astounding, 
that  the  above-mentioned  single  reduction  by  ^  suffices  for  the  geographical 
sketch  of  the  Upper  Nile  lands,  such  as  is  drawn  by  Ptolemy's  Geography,  to 
correspond  broadly  if  not  precisely  with  that  presented  to  us  ])y  the  modern 
maps.  On  this  no  doubt  (|uite  casual  coincidence  it  will  not  be  useless  to  dwell 
for  a  moment. 

The  latitude  of  Alexandria  is  given  liy  Ptolemy  as  30  30'  X.  (it  is  really 
31  12'):  from  Alexandria  to  the  parallel  of  the  eastern  lake  are  therefore 
reckoned  37  30'  E.  =  37'  E.  Xow  the  ^  oi  37  5'  are  equivalent  to  31  25'  = 
31'  15',  ami  that  lake  thus  falls  under  0"  45'  south  latitude.  A  similar 
calculation  for  the  western  lake  lirings  us  to  north  latitude  0"  9'.  ('^)     These 

291  r  -2 


Appendix  A. 

latitudes  are  very  closely  those  of  the  northern  shores  of  Lakes  Victoria  Xyanza 
and  Albert  Edward. 

I  come  -now  to  the  longitudes.  That  of  the  western  lake  (57')  differs 
scarcely  3°  from  the  longitude  of  Alexandria  (GO  according  to  Ptolemy), 
hence  actually  oidy  2  30'  l>y  the  above-mentioned  reduction.  We  have,  there- 
fore, a  result  little  inferior  to  the  reality,  since  the  longitudes  of  Alexandria  and 
of  the  west  side  of  Lake  All>ert  Pxlward  are  relatively  to  the  meridian  of 
Greenwich  30'  and  1'9  30'  (both  E.)  respectively,  according  to  Staidey's  map. 
The  longitude  of  the  eastern  lake  is  65"  in  Ptolemy,  as  above  stated.  It  would 
consequently  lie  to  the  east  of  the  meridian  of  Alexandria,  and  at  a  distance 
of  5'  (-4  10')  according  to  the  i-eduction.  Now  the  mean  longitude  of 
Lake  Victoria  is  33  15'  E.,  so  that  the  difference  is  only  minus  0°  55'.  Thus 
in  respect  of  the  longitudes  also  there  is  nothing  to  prevent  the  identification  of 
the  two  Ptolemaic  lakes  with  Lakes  Albert  Edward  and  Victoria, 

The  confluence  of  the  two  effluents  is  placed  by  Ptolemy  under  the 
meridian  of  Alexandria  (^-),  and  in  tlie  noith  latitude  of  2.  Hence  it 
may  fairly  be  placed  where  the  river  called  the  .Somerset  Nile  by  Speke 
enters  Lake  All)ert,  fiom  which  it  soon  again  issues.  Its  latitude  is  little  more 
than  2  X.,  while  its  longitude  does  not  greatly  exceed  30°  E.  Everything 
might  therefore  be  reconciled  by  accepting  Ptolemy's  figures  Avithout  any 
serious  modification.  On  the  other  hand,  by  the  process  of  reduction  we  get 
for  the  point  of  confluence  G  45'  north  latitude.  It  is,  however,  to  be  noted 
that  somewhere  about  this  latitude  the  main  stream  of  the  Nile  begins  to 
traverse  a  marshy  region  watered  by  several  rivers  nearly  parallel  to  it. 
amongst  them  the  Eahr  el-Zaraf,  the  Nam  Rol,  and  others,  and  that  further 
on,  towards  latitude  9  N.,  the  Bahr  el-Abiad  (White  Nile)  is  joined  1)oth  1)y 
the  Bahr  el-Ghazal  coming  fiom  the  west,  and  the  Sobat  from  the  east.  To 
me  the  hypothesis  does  not  seem  at  all  too  daring  that  precisely  in  this  region 
the  Alexandi-ian  Geographer  placed  the  confluence  of  the  two  upper  branches, 
on  the  mistaken  assumption  that  one  of  those  rivers  trending  north  was  in  fact 
the  emissary  of  the  eastern  lake,  just  as  for  some  years  after  Speke's  memorable 
expedition  Lake  Baringo  was  supposed  to  l^e  a  north-eastern  feeder  of  Lake 
Victoria,  and  had  for  its  emissary  the  Asua,  which  is  now  kno\vn  to  flow,  not 
to  the  lake  but  straight  to  the  Nile  at  Dufile.  (^•') 

The  almost  perfect  agreement  of  the  results  of  modern  research  with  the 
Ptolemaic  data  regaiding  the  geographical  features  of  the  two  lakes,  .sources  of 
the  Nile,  is,  I  repeat,  to  be  con.sidered  as  a  mere  coincidence.  8till  the  idea 
entertained  l>y  the  great  geographer  on  the  general  disposition  of  the  upper 
Jjasin  of  the  Egyptian  river  was,  broadly  speaking,  correct.     And  this  might 

292 


riie  Huwenzori  Kaiiire 


&' 


at  first  sight  he  ex{)huiR'(l  liy  a(hiiittiiig  that  those  iiotioiis  ahout  the  livdro- 
graphic  rehitions  might  liave  l»eeii  gathered  Ity  Ptolemy  with  the  help  of 
itineraries  made  along  the  valley  of  the  river  itself  and  generally  in  the 
direction  from  north  to  sonth.  ('^)  Only,  as  Ptolemy  himself  says,  these 
particulars  were  extant,  at  least  in  part,  in  the  work  of  Marin  us  of  Tyre, 
who  in  his  turn  had  derived  them  from  one  of  the  then  i-ecent  reports  of  the 
first  Ureek  navigators  of  Egypt,  who  frequented  the  markets  of  Ivist  Africa 
from  Cape  Aromata  to  Cape  Khaptum  (^'^)  :  "  After  this  he  (Maiiiuis)  says  that 
in  the  voyage  between  the  Aromata  and  Rhaptum  promontories  a  certain 
Diogenes  .  .  .  was  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Aromata,  driven  liy  the 
northern  winds,  and  having  on  his  right  hand  the  Troglodytica  arrived  in 
five  days  at  the  lakes  where  the  Nile  rises,  these  lakes  being  somewhat  more 
to  the  north  than  Rhapta."  {^*^) 

In  this  the  geographer  of  Tyre  is  contradicted  by  Ptolemy,  who  a  little 
further  on  says  :  "The  lakes  whence  rises  the  Nile  are  not  near  the  sea,  but  far 
more  inland  on  the  Continent/'  This  is  an  important  correction  very  probably 
suggested  to  Ptolemy  by  the  reports  of  those  Greek  seafarers,  since  the  places 
from  time  to  time  visited  Ijy  them  on  the  east  coast  of  Africa  were  not  only 
important  from  the  commercial  standpoint,  but  also  as  so  many  centres 
whither  fresh  and  numerous  particulars  could  not  fail  to  come  to  hand  about 
the  geographical  and  natural  conditions  of  the  inland  regions.  Xo  wonder, 
therefore,  if  amongst  those  particulars  was  also  that  most  important  one 
regarding  the  existences  of  two  lakes;  and  as  the  emporium  of  Rhapta,  a 
place  of  great  consequence  and  spoken  of  by  Ptolemy  as  a  metropolis  {'Pa-Tr't 
«(y7/jo-o\<v),  is  placed  by  him  unrler  the  latitude  of  7^  S.  (^'•),  while,  on  the 
other  hand,  he  was  naturally  inelined  to  believe  that  the  two  lakes  lay  due 
west  of  Rhapta,  or  nearly  so,  he  accordingly  gave  to  the  eastern  lake  the  same 
latitude  of  7'  S.  and  to  the  western  6'  S.  And  I  may  here  remark  that, 
the  position  assigned  by  Ptolemy  to  Rhapta  being  almost  exact  (^*'),  we  may 
consider  this  place  as  a  second  centre  of  observations,  sneh  as  those  above 
described  as  having  l)een  carried  out  for  Alexandria.  Now,  according  to  the 
tables,  the  longitude  of  Rhapta  is  71',  and  that  of  the  eastern  lake  is 
given  as  65,  the  difference  (6  degrees)  ])eing  with  the  leduction  5  ,  and  that 
is  the  difference  between  the  mean  longitude  of  the  mouth  of  the  Pangani 
(39)  and  that  of  Lake  Victoria  (33'  15').  Tha  14  degrees  of  longitude  that 
extend  from  the  western  lake  (longitude  57'  according  to  Ptolemy)  to  Rhapta 
(71)  arc  reduced  to  11  40',  and  this  scarcely  exceeds  the  leal  difference 
(39 '-29'  30')  by  l>'  10'. 

The  almost  identical  results  at  which  we  arrive  l)y  taking  as  centres  of 

293 


Ap])endix  A. 

astronomic  studies  the  city  of  Alexuiuhia  and  the  commerciul  emporium  of 
Rhapta,  lead  of  themselves  to  the  hypothesis  that,  besides  the  details  gathered 
fiom  the  Greek  seafarers  along  the  east  coast  of  Africa,  the  Alexandrian 
Geographer  also  utilized  the  information  ol)tained  in  the  \alley  of  the  great 
river  itself.  Nor  wW\  this  assumption  appear  too  l)old  if  we  bear  in  mind  that 
long  before  the  time  of  Ptolemy,  the  great  Eratosthenes,  speaking  of  the  chief 
branch  of  the  Nile,  ex])ressed  himself  thus  :  "  Two  waterways  fall  into  the 
Nile  :  they  both  come  from  cei-tain  lakes  lying  far  to  the  east  and  enclosing  a 
very  large  island  known  l)y  the  name  of  Meroe.  One  of  these  waterways, 
called  Astaboras,  forms  the  east  side  of  the  island,  the  other  is  called  Astapus. 
Some  authors,  however,  give  to  the  latter  the  name  of  Astasobas,  and  apply 
the  name  Astapus  to  another  waterway,  which  they  bring  from  the  lakes  lying 
in  the  region  of  the  south,  and  regard  it  in  some  way  as  tiie  main  stream  or 
else  as  the  chief  branch  of  the  Nile,  adding  that  its  periodical  floods  are  due  to 
the  summer  rains."  ('■')  If,  as  seems  beyond  doubt,  the  Astalioras  is  to  l)e 
identiticil  with  the  Atbara,  the  Astasobas  with  the  Bahr  el-Azrek  or  Klue  Nile, 
and  the  Astapus  with  the  White  Nile  or  Bahr  el-Abiad  (main  l)ranch  of  the 
Nile),  Ptolemy  would  have  but  repeated  on  the  w^hole  what  three  centuries 
before  him  had  been  so  well  expressed  by  the  Libiaiian  of  Alexandria,  merely 
adding  on  his  own  pait  the  positions — latitude  and  longitude — of  the  two 
lakes  lying  in  the  region  of  the  south,  that  is,  south  of  the  equinoxial  line 
whose  waters  feed  the  chief  artery  of  the  all-important  fluvial  system. 

At  this  point  we  meet  with  an  appaientlv  serious  objection.  According  to 
the  authors  alluded  to  In'  Eiatosthenes  the  name  Astapus  is  given  to  the 
principal  branch  of  the  Nile  flowing  from  the  south,  whereas  Ptolemy  applies  it 
to  an  affltient  of  the  Nile  which,  issuing  from  Lake  Coloe  under  the  et]uinoxial 
line,  falls  into  the  main  stream  at  latitude  12°  N.  But,  as  above  stated,  the 
objection  is  only  apparent.  Eratosthenes,  speaking  for  himself,  had  already 
given  the  name  of  Astapus  to  the  river  mai'king  the  west  (and  south-west)  side 
of  the  island  (peninsula)  of  Meioe.  that  is  to  say,  the  Aliai  or  Bahi'  cl-Azrek. 
Ptolemy,  on  his  part,  did  not  think  it  right  to  depart  fi(mi  the  opinion  of  his 
predecessor,  and  so  kept  the  name  of  Astapus  for  the  subcjrdinati!  river.  It 
might  be  more  important  to  notice  in  the  Geography  of  the  Alexandrian  two 
errors,  one  of  which  affects  the  Lake  Coloe  (Lake  Tana  or  Tsana  in  the  heart 
of  Abyssinia),  which  he  places  under  the  ecpiinoxial  line.  The  other  mistake 
consists  in  describing  the  Astaboras  as  a  river  which  nnngles  its  waters  with  the 
Astajjus.  But  an  encjuiry  into  all  tlu-sc  matters,  besides  requiring  too  great  a 
development,  would  lie  foieign  to  the  question  of  the  lakes,  sources  of  the  Nile, 
and  to  that  of  the  Mountains  of  the  Moon.       Notice  can  oidy  be  taken  of  the 

294 


The  Ruwenzori  Range. 

mistake  made  1)y  Stanley,  who,  after  calling;  Ptolemy  "  the  Kavenstein  or  the 
Justus  Perthes  of  his  period"  (Vol.  II,  p.  270),  says  that  the  easternmost  lake 
was  called  by  Ptolemy  Coloc  Fahis,  whereas  this  lake  is  expressly  descril)ed 
in  the  Alexandrian's  work  as  l)elonging  to  the  secomlary  liasin  of  the  Pahi- 
el-Azrek.  (•■^^') 

Meanwhile,  from  the  facts  so  far  pointed  out,  we  clearly  see  how  greatly 
those  authors  are  at  fault  who  place  the  two  lakes  of  the  Upper  Nile,  and  as 
a  necessary  consequence  the  Mountains  of  the  Moon  too,  in  the  highland  region 
of  Abyssinia,  thus  turning  the  Ptolemaic  data  upside  down,  and  stating  in 
support  of  their  assumption  that  the  ancients  knew  of  only  <jne  system  ()f 
snowy  mountains  in  Africa,  namely,  that  of  the  Abyssinian  Semen.  All  the 
less  can  we  accept  the  opinion  of  those  writers  who,  with  Kavenstein  (-i),  prefer 
Marinus  Tyrus  to  Ptolemy,  and  locate  the  Upper  Nile  lakes  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  the  east  coast,  and  precisely  in  the  territory  of  the  Afars  (Dankali), 
that  is  at  over  1 U  of  north  latitude. 

Those  two  famous  lakes  are,  beyond  doubt,  identical,  the  eastern  with 
Lake  Victoria,  the  western  with  Lake  Albert  or  Albert  Etlward,  or  proltably 
with  both  of  them  taken  together.  Nor  does  the  objection  hold  which  is 
suggested  l»y  the  too  great  cliflFerence  (S  degrees)  in  the  longitudes  of  the  two 
lacustrine  basins,  as,  besides  the  uncertainty  in  which  Ptolemy  leaves  us 
regarding  the  locality  of  the  eastern  lake,  of  which  he  gives  us  the  geographical 
relations,  it  may  be  remarked  that  the  difference  might  have  been  caused  by 
the  windings  of  the  routes  that  had  to  l)e  traversed  to  get  from  the  southern 
shores  of  the  eastern  lake  to  any  point  of  the  western.  (--)  It  is  further  objected 
that  Ptolemy  tells  us  nothing  as  to  the  size  of  the  two  lakes,  which  seems 
strange,  especially  as  regards  Lake  Victoria,  a  rival  in  area  of  the  largest  lakes 
in  the  Laurentian  basin  of  North  America.  On  this  point  I  may  remark  that 
neither  for  any  of  the  other  lakes  does  Ptolemy  tell  us  anything  respecting 
their  extent.  Why,  then,  should  he  7nake  a  solitary  exception  in  the  case  of 
the  two  Nilotic  ones  ?  Nor  should  it  1)e  forgotten  that  in  his  comprehensive 
Avork  Ptolemy  shows  himself  more  especially  in  the  light  of  an  astronomer. 
The  geographer  appears,  so  to  say,  only  in  the  second  place.  In  fact,  no  trace 
is  to  l)e  found  of  a  physical  description  of  the  world,  of  its  moi-phology,  or  of 
any  of  the  other  subjects  that  form  the  main  object  of  pure  geography.  In 
this  respect  Ptolemy  is  far  inferior  to  Stralio.  His  chief  aim,  says  Bunbury, 
was  to  rectify  the  general  map  of  the  habitalile  globe,  not  only  l»y  supplying 
what  had  remained  unknown  to  his  predecessors,  but  also  by  applying  from 
beginning  to  end  a  more  scientific  system  based  on  solid  astronomic  founda- 
tions.    He  again  inclined  to  the  idea  that  had  long  before  been  entertained  1»y 

295 


Appendix  A. 

Ilipp.uchus,  l)ut  which  that  great  astronomer  had  l)eeii  uiialjle  to  realize  owing 
to  the  great  lack  of  materials. 

The  identity  being  thus  demonstrated  of  Ptolemy's  two  lakes  with  Lake 
Victoria  and  the  Albert-Alheit  Edward  basin,  we  now  come  to  the  question 
of  the  Mountains  of  the  Moon.  That  these  uplands,  lofty  enough  to  feed  the 
reservoirs  of  the  Upper  Xile  with  their  snows,  are  to  l)e  placed  annd  the 
Abyssinian  highlands,  and  more  particularly  in  the  mountains  of  Semen  or  of 
Gojam,  is  a  view  that  must  be  absolutely  rejected.  To  it  are  opposed  the 
northern  position  of  those  mountains,  the  fact  that  the  Al)yssinian  heights 
stand  altogether  outside  the  upper  basin  of  the  White  Xile,  and  perhaps  also 
the  altitude  itself  which,  although  in  some  of  its  peaks  rivalling  that  of 
Monte  Rosa,  is  still  too  low  to  justify  Ptolemy's  statement,  if,  indeed,  the 
Geographer  intended  to  speak  of  perennial  snows. 

The  Abyssinian  Mountains  l)eing  excluded,  only  two  upland  groups 
Z'emain  that  might  aspire  to  the  honour  of  being  identified  with  the  Mountains 
of  the  Moon.  These  are  the  Kilimanjaro-Kenia  (-*)  and  the  Kuwenzori  groups. 
There  is,  however,  a  serious  objection.  Ptolemy  (or  the  Arab  interpolation  1) 
expressly  states  that  the  longitudinal  axis  of  those  mountains  is  develo])ed  in 
the  equatorial  direction  along  the  parallel  of  12  30'  S.  The  Kilimanjaro- 
Kenia  group  is,  on  the  contrary,  developed  in  a  direction  which  departs  little 
from  the  meridian,  wdiile  that  of  Kuwenzori  has  a  trend  nearly  from  8.S.W.  to 
X.X.K.  Xevertheless,  this  at  first  sight  most  formidable  objection  mav  perhaps 
be  overcome,  or  better,  toned  down  with  a  consideration  of  geneial  hydrography. 
AVe  know  that,  in  accordance  with  their  direction  relatively  to  that  of  the  lines 
of  M'ater-])arting,  rivers  are  normally  divided  into  transversal  and  longitudinal. 
The  first  have  a  trend  perpendicular,  or  neai'ly  so,  to  the  main  water-parting 
line,  while  the  second  are  parallel,  or  nearly  so,  to  the  same  line.  To  which  of 
these  two  categories  belongs  the  course  of  the  Upper  Xile  1  If  w-e  regard  as  a 
line  of  Avater-parting  the  undulating  ground  traversing  Unyamweziland,  and 
enclosing  on  the  south  the  Upper  Xile  l)asin,  and  more  particularly  that  of 
Lake  Victoria,  then  the  Upper  Xile  will  lie  classed  amongst  the  transversal 
rivers.  If,  on  the  other  hand,  we  take  as  main  dividing  lines  either  the  steep 
eastern  scarj)  of  the  great  African  tableland  (the  watershed  towards  the  Indian 
Ocean),  oi-  else  the  series  of  heights  separating  Lake  Albert  Edward,  the 
Semliki  valley,  and  Lake  Albert  from  the  Congo  basin,  then  the  Upper  Xile 
will  become  a  longitudinal  river.  Xow,  bearing  in  mind  the  decided  trend  of 
the  X'ile  in  the  meridian  direction,  it  is  highly  probable  that  we  should  incline 
rather  to  the  first  than  to  the  second  view,  and  accordingly  place  the  region 
where  the  river  rises  in  an  upland  tract  running  perpendicularly  to  its  trend, 

293 


The  Iiuwenzori  Range. 

that  is,  from  west  to  east.  But  at  the  same  time,  either  owing  tu  our 
knowledge  of  the  existence  of  snowy  peaks  in  that  part  of  east  equatorial 
Africa,  or  else  because  of  the  generally  admitted  principle  that  the  lai-ger 
rivers  rise  in  the  highest  mountains,  (-"')  those  moderate  undidations  of  the  land 
were  without  more  ado  transformed  to  a  group  of  gigantic  highlands,  ^^'e  thus 
see  how,  despite  their  trend,  quite  different  from  the  equatorial,  the  two  gi'oups 
of  Kilimanjaro-Kenia  and  Kuwenzori,  thanks  to  their  great  elevation,  came  to 
form  part  of  the  Mountains  of  the  Moon.  (-")  To  which  of  the  two  should  the 
preference  be  given  1 

Respecting  Kilimanjaro-Kenia,  we  have  to  consider  a  fact  of  vast 
geological  and  hydrographic  importance.  The  narrow  strip  of  seaboard  along 
the  Indian  Ocean,  where  prevail  the  Jurassic  limestones  and  argillaceous  schists, 
is  followed  westwards  by  a  chain  of  isolated  crj'stalline  heights  commonly 
designated  bv  the  name  of  the  East  African  Schistose  INlountains.  "West  of 
this  system  we  entei-  a  zone  highly  remarkable  for  its  great  geological 
disturbances.  It  is  distinguished  above  all  by  the  great  East  African  Kift 
Valley,  a  vast  line  of  fissure  running  in  the  direction  of  the  meridian,  and 
extending  for  40^  of  latitude  from  the  Asphaltites  Lake  (Dead  Sea)  all  the  way 
to  Ugogo.  The  trough  on  the  east  side  is  to  be  regarded  as  a  secondary  rift, 
above  which  rise  Mounts  ]\Ieru,  Kilimanjaro,  and  probably  also  Kenia.  The 
whole  of  this  district  west  of  the  East  African  Schistose  system  sends  none  of 
its  running  waters  either  directly  or  indirectly  to  the  Lidian  Ocean,  In  other 
words,  it  is  essentially  a  landlocked  continental  region.  (-")  Thus,  while  the 
east  slope  of'the  Schistose  Mountains  is  traversed  by  streams  trilnitary  to  the 
Indian  Ocean,  the  few  rivers  of  the  west  slope  find  no  other  outlet  but  the 
chain  of  lakelets  which  follow  in  the  direction  from  noith  to  south  along  the 
meridian  rift.  The  aforesaid  Kilimanjaro-Kenia  group  stands  therefore 
al)Solutely  outside  the  Lake  Victoria  and  Somerset  Nile  basins.  (-^) 

It  is  otherwise  with  Euwenzori,  Avhich,  by  its  east  watershed  not  only 
belongs  to  the  basin  of  the  Somerset  Nile  and  of  the  region  north-east  of  Lake 
Albert  Edward,  but  also,  by  its  south  and  west  slopes,  to  the  basin  of  the  same 
Lake  Albert  Edward,  the  Semliki  and  Lake  Albert.  Hence,  if,  as  is  probable, 
there  exists  any  orographic,  if  not  geological,  liidv  between  Kuwenzori  and  the 
group  of  Virunga  Mountains,  which  rise  to  the  south  and  south-M'est  of  Lake 
Albert  Edward  to  an  altitude  of  13,000  feet,  the  identification  of  this  highland 
system  with  the  Mountains  of  the  Moon  would  be  all  the  more  confirmed. 
This  system  is,  in  fact,  the  only  one  in  the  whole  of  etjuatorial  Africa  that 
completely  satisfies  all  the  conditions  specified  in  Ptolemy's  Geography,  not 
even   altogether    excepting   that    of    the    general    trend,    which   is   precisely 

297 


Ap])onclix  A. 

eijuaturial  in  the  group  of   the  Xfumhiio  (properly  Muhawura — "  far  seen  "  ) 
and  Yininga  Mountains,  although  these  are  far  less  elevated  than  Ruwenzori.  ("-") 


NOTES, 


(')  This  is  tlie  seventh  chapter  of  Book  IV.  After  indicating  the  geographical  positions 
of  the  two  hikes  sources  of  the  Nile,  it  -would  naturally  occur  to  Ptolemy  to  give  that  of  the 
more  southern  snowy  mountains.  But  he  does  not  do  so,  and  only  speaks  of  them  incidentally 
in  chapter  8  of  the  same  hook,  where  there  is  no  further  reference  to  tlie  Egyptian  river. 

(-)  CooLEY,  op.  vit.,  pp.  77-78. 

(•*)  H.  KiEPERT,  Lchrhiich  der  alten  Geoffraphie,  ]).  210,  note  2. 

(^)  Geogr.  Mit.  1892,  LUteratur-Bericht,  No.  49. 

(^)  Meteor.     Book  I,  chap.  13. 

(")  Histoirc  dc  la  Geographic,  pp.  109  and  121  ;  Le  Xord  de  V Afriqviy  darns 
VAnliquite  grecqne  et  romaine,  pp.  21  and  486. 

(J)  Malfatti,  Seritti  geograjici  ed  etnograjici,  p.  454. 

C*)  See  in  this  connection  the  important  considerations  dcvclopi-d  by  Ptolemy  in 
chaps.  4  an<l  6  of  Book  I. 

(')  The  defects  of  this  method,  and  the  serious  errors  connnitted  by  Ptolemy  in 
recasting  and  expanding  tlie  work  of  ifarinus  of  Tyre,  are  excellently  exhibited,  vvitli  his  usual 
clearness  and  slirewdness,  by  Vivien  de  Saint-Mahtix  {Histoire  de  la  Oeographie, 
pp.  200  and  201).  On  Ptolemy's  geographic  system  specially  valuable  are  the  pages 
devoted  to  this  subject  by  BrxBrnv  in  his  Hisiorg  of  Ancient  Geographg  (2nd  edition. 
Vol.  II,  ]))).  546-579). 

('"_)  Verv  mnnerous  instances  of  siu-li  niniifrical  ri'ductions  arc  found  in  the  Geographg, 
and  especially  ni  Book  I. 

(")  (30'  5'  X  6')  X  I;  =30  ,  4lo  ;  30   5'-30  ,  419  =0',08.-5. 

('2)  Pfol.  Geogr.,  Book  IV,  cha]).  7.  Here  is  tlic  conllucncc  of  the  rivers  that  flow  from 
the  soutlu-rn  lakes  ;  long.  60",  hit.  2"  N. 

('•■')  Sucli  is  also  tlie  opinion  of  not  a  few  niodcni  gcograiihcrs,  amongst  whom  I  have 
pleasure  in  mentioning  Dr.  Felix  Barliovx  in  one  of  his  learned  dissertations  i)ublislicd  in 
1874.  under  the  title,  Dovtrinn  Pfolemaei  ah  injuria  receii/ iorirm  riiidirafa,  p.  31. 

29S 


The  Ruwenzori  Range. 

C^)  "'His  (Ptolt'iiiv's)  latitiuli's  ;iiid  longitudes  iirc  flt-iirly  wortlilcss,  except  in  so  far  as 
the  former  represent  tlie  broad  tact  tliat  these  lakes,  and  therefore  the  sources  of  the  Nile, 
were  actually  situated  south  of  the  equator."  So  Bpjsbcey  in  the  ((uoted  work,  Vol.  II, 
pp.  614-15. 

('^)  Cape  Aroniata  is  usually  identified  with  Cape  GiiarJafiii.  Hen  ky  Sciilichtkk  {Proc. 
of  the  Roiial  Geographical  Socielii,  1891,  p.  529),  places  it  nuieh  farther  south,  and  identifies 
it  with  Rai  Aswad  (lat.  4°  30'  N.).  Cape  Ehaptuui  is  placed  by  Ptolemy  at  one  and  a-half 
degree  from  the  commercial  emporium  of  Khapta  in  the  direction  of  the  south.  Touching  its 
identity  with  any  of  the  coast  headlands  in  that  part  of  Africa,  geographers  are  not  quite  of 
accord.  Miiller  places  it  at  Ras  Pinia,  Berlioux  and  Schlichter  at  Ras  Mambamku.  Nor  is 
it  easy  to  indicate  the  position  of  the  commercialeuiporium  of  Rhapta,  since  it  did  not  lie  on 
the  coast,  but  sonunvliat  inland.  Still,  as  the  Eiver  Rhaptus  of  Ptolemy's  Geography  is  most 
probably  identical  Avith  the  Pangani,  not  a  few  geographers  place  Rh.apta  on  the  lower  course 
of  that  river.  Bunbury  {op.  cit.,  p.  454),  says  that  Rhapta  stood  at  the  head  of  the  bay 
opposite  Zanzibar,  not  far  from  Bagamoyo. 

("■')    Geogr.,  Book  I,  cliap.  9. 

(''■)  Admitting  that  Ehai)ta  corresponded  to  some  place  on  the  lower  course  of  the 
Pangani,  Ptolemy's  latitude  T  S.  would  differ  by  1'  30'  from  the  actual,  the  mouth  of  the 
Pangani  being  at  5°  30'.  If  we  locate  Rhapta  with  Bunbury  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
Bagamoyo,  the  agreement  will  be  almost  perfect.  In  any  case,  the  nearly  correct  description 
of  the  eastern  seaboard  is  easily  explained  when  we  remember  that,  as  we  know  from  the 
Periplus  Man's  Erythraei  and  from  the  language  of  Ptolemy  himself,  the  coastlands  north 
of  Rhapta  were  at  that  time  very  well  known. 

("^)   See  the  foregoing  note. 

('*')  Strabo,  Geogr.,  Book  XVII,  chap.  1,1;  Berger,  Die  geograpliixclien  Fragmente  des 
Eratosthenen,  Vol.  I,  p.  302  sq. 

(-")  Stanley,  In  Darkest  Africa,  Vol.  II,  p.  270. 

(-')  Proceedings  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Sucie/g,  1891,  p.  550. 

(")  H.  Schlichter  m  Proceedings  of  the  Rogal  Geographical  Societg,  1891,  p.  534. 

(-•')   BtJXBURY,  History  of  Ancient  Geography,  Vol.  II. 

(-■')  We  know  that  the  first  notions  regarding  these  gigantic  mountains  of  East  Africa 
date  from  the  travels  of  the  missionaries  Krapf  and  Rebmann  (1848-lSol). 

(-■')   Tlie  Monies  Atrapei  of  European  Sarmatia  may  serve  as  an  instance. 

(-")  Bunbury  argues  much  to  the  same  effect.  "  The  precision  with  which  he  determines 
*he  position  and  limits  of  a  range  of  mountains,  concerning  which  lie  had  no  real  knowledge, 
and  which  had  no  existence  in  fact,  finds  a  parallel  in  that  of  the  Hyperborean  Mountains  in 
European  Sarmatia  ;  and  there  seems  no  doubt  that  the  process  by  which  Ptolemy  arrived  at 
his  conclusion  was  much  the  same  in  botli  cases.  In  this  instance  he  litid  learned  the  existence 
of  two  lakes,  which  he  believed  to  be  the  sources  of  t]u>  Nile  ;  he  had  learnt  also  the  existence 
of  a  range  of  mountains,  some  of  which  ivere  so  lofly  as  to  he  covered  with  snow,  thougli 
situated  under  the  equator;  he  then  at  once  assumed  that  the  lakes  were  fed  by  the  snows  of 
the  mountains,  and  having  no  real  idea  of  the  position  of  these  last,  drew  them  on  his  map  in 
a  straight  line,  to  the  south  of  the  lakes,  extending  far  enough  to  the  cast  and  west,  to  supply, 
as  he  conceived,  tlie  necessary  drainage."  See  History  of  Ancient  Geography,  Vol.  II, 
p.  61(5.     It  is  needless  to  observe  that  the  learned  historian  does  not  admit  with  Cooley  the 

299 


Appendix  A. 


inU'rpolation  ot'  the  passage  in  flu*  Gotigmphy  where  allusion  is  made  to  tlic  Mountains  of  the 
iloon,  or,  in  other  words,  lie  holds  tlieui  to  have  been  written  by  Ptolemy  himself.  "  The 
attempt  of  Mr.  Cooley,"  lie  writes,  '"  to  discard  altogether  the  Mountains  of  the  Moon  as  an 
interpolation  in  the  text  of  Ptolemy,  due  to  the  Arabian  Geographers,  appears  to  me  wholly 
untenable.  The  passage  in  wliicli  he  speaks  of  them  (IV,  9,  3)  is  unconnected  witli  tliat  con- 
cerning tlie  two  lakes  (IV,  8,  23),  and  probably  derived  fi-om  a  difPorent  authority  ;  but  it  is 
not  inconsistent  with  it."     {See  op   cif.,  p.  617,  note  3.) 

(-^)  O.  Batmann,  Diirch  Masailand  ziir  yHqxelle,  p.  133. 

(j*)  Before  these  geographical  details  were  known,  geographers  were  naturally  inclined 
to  identify  those  snowy  mountains  of  East  Africa  with  the  Mountains  of  tlir  Moon  of 
Ptolemy's  Geogi-ajiliy.  It  will  sutliee  to  mention  Chakles  Bkke  {On  the  Jloinifains 
forming  the  eastern  side  of  the  Site,  Edinburgh,  18(31)  ;  VlVlEN  DE  Saixt-Maktin 
{Le  Xord  de  V Afriqiie  dans  V Antiqitite  f/revqite  el  romiine,  Paris,  1863)  ;  Etienne  Felix 
Berlioux  {Doctrina  Ptolemaei  ab  injnria  reeentioritm  rindicafa,  Paris,  1874:),  Sir  E.  II. 
BrXBrRY  (A  History  of  Ancient  Geography,  Vol.  II,  p.  617)  ;  H.  Tozek,  who,  in  his 
History  of  Ancient  Geography,  published  in  1897,  hence  subsequently  to  Stanley's  last 
great  expedition,  writes  at  p.  352  :  "  The  intelligence  which  is  contained  in  these  two 
statements  (regarding  the  two  lakes  as  sources  of  the  Nile  and  the  iVIuinitaiiis  of  the  Moon) 
was  probably  transmitted,  not  by  way  of  the  Nile  Valley,  which  was  not  followed  by 
traders  beyond  the  marshy  region  which  has  been  already  noticed,  but  from  the  coast  in 
tlie  neighbourhood  of  Zanzibar,  where  the  station  of  Hliapta  liail  liecii  estal)lis]ied.  On 
this  supposition  it  is  not  improbable  tliat  tlic  lakes  here  sjiokcn  of  arc  the  A'ictt>ria  and 
Albert  Nyanza,  and  tlie  mention  of  so  unusual  a  )>lu-in)iiicM(in  as  snow-covcrcd  mountains  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  the  equator  supports  the  conjecture  that  the  Mountains  of  the  Moon 
are  none  other  than  Mounts  Kilimanjaro  (19,700  feet),  and  Kenia"  (18,370  feet),  wliicli  lie 
between  those  lakes  and   the   sea." 

(-'■')  Amongst  the  most  vigorous  cham]tions  of  Stanley's  view  is  H.  S.  Sciilichteu,  who 
concludes  his  learned  work  on  Ptoi.emv's  Topography  of  Eastern  Equatorial  Africa  (1891), 
with  the  following  words  : — "  Mr.  Stanley's  discovery  of  this  great  snow  mountain,  surrounded 
by  a  series  of  other  peaks,  forms,  so  to  speak,  the  key  to  the  whole  (juestion  of  tht>  Momitains  of 
the  Moon.  For  it  is  perfectly  clear  that  hy  the  Ploleiiiacan  mountain,  tlie  snows  of  whicli 
feed  the  Nile  lakes,  only  Kuwenzori  can  be  meant,  as  may  be  seen  from  a  glance  at 
Mr.  Stanley's  map,  wliere  we  find  a  great  number  of  rivers  ([  have  counted  nun'c  than  forty) 
which  flow  from  the  heights  of  Ruwenzori  into  tlu>  Semliki  or  the  Allici-t  Edward  Nyanza. 
We  have  seen  that  tlie  western  end  of  the  Mountains  of  tlic  Moon,  as  dcscrilicil  liy  Ptolemy, 
coincides  willi  Ruwenzori,  and  Mr.  Stanley  is  tlici'ct'ore  perfectly  just ilicd  in  claiming  to 
have  found  and  identified  the  lofty  peaks,  celebrated  in  antiquity,  in  which  tlie  Nile  takes 
its  rise,  and  which,  for  many  centuries  past,  were  more  enigmatical  than  any  other  mountain 
in   the  world." 

Dealing  with  a  question  whose  final  resolution,  in  tlic  absence  of  safe  and  ])<)sitive- data 
and  in  the  scarcity  of  actual  facts,  must  always  remain  a  "  pious  wish,"  one  well  understands 
how  Sehliehter's  conclusions  were  not  unanimously  accepted,  and  even  found  formidable 
o)>ponents,  amongst  whom  Ravenstt'in  must  be  specially  mentioned.  The  examination  of  the 
arguments  advanced  for  and  against  would  far  exc.'cd  tlic  modest  limits  to  wliii'li  I  have 
cimfincd  myself  in  tlicse  ])ages.      I  must  rest    satislicd  with   here  (juoting  tlic  o])iiiioii  exjircssed 

;}00 


The  liuwenzori   Range. 

on  till'  subject  In  SiK  Hexry  H.  Johxstux  in  liis  r.-ceiit  work,  Tin-  Xilt  Qin-st,  \>.  2S :  "  The 
present  writer  is  unable  to  understand  why  that  able  geographer,  Mr.  E.  G.  Ravensteiu,  has 
doubted  the  identifieation  of  Euwenzori  with  Ptolemy's  Mountains  of  the  Moon.  It  must  be 
obvious,  when  all  faets  are  considered,  that  Ruwenzori  was  tlie  principal  genu  of  tliis  idea. 
Tlie  Greek  traders  at  Rhapta  (Pangani)  no  doubt  liad  some  idea  of  the  existence  of  Kiliman- 
aro,  but  it  is  doubtful  whetlier  either  tlie  single  dome  of  Kilimanjaro  or  the  gleaming 
pinnacle  of  Kenia  would  impress  the  imagination  so  strongly  as  the  whole  brilliant  range  of 
Ruwenzori's  four  or  five  snow  ]»eaks  and  thirty  miles  of  glaciation." 


301 


APPENDIX    B. 


ASTROXOAIIC,   GEODETIC   AND    METEORO- 
LOGICAL   OBSERYATIOXS. 


I.— REPORT   ON   ASTRONOMIC  OBSERVATIONS, 
By  p.  CAMPIGLI. 

11. —GEODETIC   OBSERVATIONS, 
By  p.  CAMPIGLI. 

Ill— REPORT  ON  METEOROLOGICAL  AND 
ALTIMETRIC  OBSERVATIONS, 

By  prof.  d.  omoi)p:i. 


In  this  note  are  contained  the  relations 
.md  calculations  of  the  astronomic, 
meteorological  and  geodetic  observations 
which  H.K.H.  the  Duke  of  the  Al)ruzzi 
was  able  to  carr\'  out  on  the  route  from 
Entebbe  to  Bujongolo,  and  during  the 
exploration  of  the  Ruwenzori  Range. 

The  calculations  relating  to  these 
observations,  as  well  as  the  construction 
and  plan  of  the  topographic  maps 
accompanying  the  present  volume  were 
executed  at  the  Hydrographic  Institute 
of  the  Royal  Navy  at  Genoa. 

The  way  b}'^  which  the  astronomic 
and  meteorological  observations  were  made,  from  which  were  obtained  the 
positions  and  altitudes  of  the  various  points  indicated  on  the  maps,  as  well  as 
the  methods  of  calculation  employed,  are  all  eml)odied  in  the  accompanying 
special  reports  drawn  up  through  the  care  of  the  Director  of  the  said  Institute, 
Mattia  Giavotto,  Captain  of  frigate,  the  sections  dealing  with  the  meteorology 
and  the  astronomic  observations  being  prepared  by  Prof.  Omodei  and  the 
"  Capo-Tecnico  "  8ig.  P.  Campigli  respectively. 


305 


L— REPORT   ON  ASTRONOMIC  OBSERVATIONS. 

By  p.  Campigli. 

The  astronomic  determinations  made  by  H.R.H.  the  Duke  of  the  Abruzzi 
on  the  route  between  Entebl)e  and  Ruwenzori  are  the  result  of  solar 
observations  made  with  an  aluminium  sextant,  which  was  constructed  in  the 
engineering  workshop  of  the  Naval  Hydrographic  Institute  at  Genoa.  Its 
graduated  arc  has  a  radius  of  145  mm.  (about  6  inches),  being  so  subdivided 
as  to  show  the  20  seconds  on  the  vernier.  Magnaghi's  astronomic  circle  was  used 
only  in  the  very  few  cases  where,  for  observations  at  the  meridian  or  in  its 
neighbourhood,  the  height  of  the  sun  was  such  as  to  make  the  use  of  the 
sextant  less  convenient. 

Of  course,  all  measured  heights  were  duplicated  at  an  artificial  mercurial 
horizon,  care  being  taken  to  reverse  the  position  of  the  roof  at  half  of  each 
series  of  observations,  in  order  to  lessen  to  the  utmost  the  influence  of  errors 
in  case  the  glasses  of  the  said  roof  should  eventually  become  prismatically 
affected. 

The  calculations  were  carried  out  by  means  of  logarithms  of  8  decimals, 
tables  of  7  decimals  Ijeing  used  only  in  calculating  the  mean  hour  at  Greenwich 
at  the  moment  of  emersion  of  BAG  81  from  the  lunar  disk,  as  observed  at 
midnight  between  the  11th  and  12th  July,  1906,  at  Bujongolo,  the  last 
astronomic  station  in  the  district  nearest  to  the  Ruwenzori  uplands. 

The  astronomic  refraction  ?•,  corresponding  to  the  considerable  altitudes  at 
which  the  astronomic  observations  were  made  during  the  journey,  was  calculated 
with  Bessel's  well-known  formula  : — 

/•  =  log  {(I.  tang  ■)  +  A  (log  B  +  log  T)  +  log  y, 

neglecting  the  factor  A,  for  apparent  zenith  distances  z,  under  77°,  and  the 
factor  A,  Ijesides  A,  for  apparent  zenith  distances  less  than  45\  The  values  of 
the  elements  contained  in  the  foregoing  formula  were  deduced  from  Albrecht's 
tables,  1894  edition.  But  the  Table  34/,  which  gives  the  value  of  log  B,  only 
comprises  barometric  pressures  between  600  and  780  mm.  (24  and  31  inches), 

307  X  2 


A])|)endix  11 

whereas  the  expedition  reached  altitudes  at  which  consideraltly  lower  pressures 
had  to  be  recorded  ;  hence,  besides  All)recht's  34/  table  the  following  was  also 
calculated,  and  is  hi're  inserted,  as  it  may  be  found  useful  in  other  cases. 


Barom. 

logB. 

Baroni. 

logB. 

Barom . 

logB.  ; 

1 

Barom. 

logB. 

Barom. 

logB. 

mm. 

mm. 

mm. 

mill. 

mm. 

400  0 

27387 

440  0 

23248 

480-0 

194fi9 

520  0 

15993 

560-0 

12774 

lo 

27279 

41  0 

23149 

81-0 

19378 

21  •() 

15909 

61  -0 

12697 

2  0 

27170 

42  0 

23051 

82-0 

19288 

22-0 

15826 

62-0 

12619 

3  0 

27062 

43  0  1 

22953 

83  0 

19198 

23  0 

15743 

63-0 

12542 

4  0 

26933 

44  0  1 

22865 

84-0 

19108 

24-0 

15660 

64-0 

12465 

5-0 

26847 

45  0 

22752 

85-0 

19019 

25-0 

15577 

65-0 

12388 

6  0 

26740 

46  0 

22660 

86-0 

18929 

26  0 

15494 

66  0 

12311 

7  0 

26634 

47  0 

22562 

87  0 

18840 

27  0 

15412 

ti7-0 

12235 

8  0 

26527 

48  0 

22465 

88-0 

18751 

28-0 

15339 

68-0 

12158 

9  0 

26421 

49  0 

22368 

89  0 

18662 

29  0 

15247 

69-0 

12082 

410  0 

26315 

4.50  0 

22272 

490-0 

18573 

530-0 

15163 

570-0 

12006 

11-0 

26209 

51  <i 

22175 

91-0 

18485 

31  0 

15084 

71-0 

11929 

12  0 

26103 

52  0 

22079 

92-0 

18396 

32-0 

15U02 

72  0 

11853 

13  0 

25998 

53  0 

21983 

93  0 

18308 

33-0 

14920 

73  0 

11778 

14  0 

2.5893 

54  0 

21887 

94-0 

18220 

34-0 

14844 

74-0 

11702 

15  0 

2578S 

55  0 

21792 

95-0  ' 

18132 

35  0 

14758 

75  0 

11626 

IGO 

25684 

56-0 

21697 

96-0  1 

18045 

36-0 

14677 

76  0 

11551 

17  0 

25579 

57  0 

21601 

97-0 

17957 

37  0 

14596 

77-0 

11475 

18  0 

25+75 

58-0 

21506 

98-0 

17870 

38-0 

14515 

78-0 

11406 

19  0 

25372 

59  0 

21412 

99  0 

177«3 

39  0 

14434 

79  0 

11325 

420  0 

25268 

'160-0 

21317 

500-0 

17696 

540-0 

'  14354 

580-0 

11250 

21  0 

25165 

61  0 

21223 

1-0 

17609 

41-0 

14273 

81-0 

11175 

22  0 

25062 

62  0 

21129 

2-0 

1 7523 

42  0 

14193 

82-0 

11101 

23  0 

24959 

63-0 

21035 

3-0 

17436 

43-0 

14113 

83-0 

11026 

24  0 

24856 

64  0 

20941 

4  0 

17350 

44  0 

14033 

84-0 

10952 

25  0 

21754 

65  0 

20848 

5-0 

17264 

45  0 

13933 

85-0 

10877 

26  0 

24652 

66  0 

20754 

6-0 

17178 

46  0 

13874 

86-0 

10803 

27  0 

24550 

67  0 

20661 

7-0 

17092 

47 -0 

13794 

87-0 

10729 

28-0 

21449 

68  0 

1  20568 

8-0 

17007 

48-0 

13715 

88-0 

10655 

29  0 

24347 

69  -0 

20476 

9-0 

16921 

49  0 

13636 

89-0 

105S1 

430  0 

24246 

470  0 

1  203S3 

510  0 

16s::6 

550-0 

13557 

590-0 

10508 

31  0 

24145 

71  0 

20291 

11  0 

16751 

51  0 

13478 

91  -0 

10434 

32  0 

,  24045 

72 -u 

20199 

12-0 

16666 

52-0 

13399 

92  0 

10361 

33  0 

23944 

73  0 

20107 

18-0 

16581 

53  0 

13320 

93  0 

10288 

34  0 

23844 

74  0 

I  20015 

14-0 

16497 

54-0 

13242 

94-0 

10214 

35  0 

1  23744 

75  0 

19924 

15-0 

16412 

55-0 

13164 

95-0 

10141 

36  0 

23644 

76  0 

1983-2 

16-0 

16328 

56-0 

13086 

96-0 

10068 

37-0 

23545 

77  0 

19741 

17  0 

1H244 

57  0 

13088 

97-0 

9996 

38  0 

23444 

78-0 

19650 

18-0 

16160 

58  -0 

12930 

98-0 

9923 

39  0 

23347 

79  0 

19559 

19-0 

16U76 

59-0 

12852 

99  0 

9850 

The  value  of  log  B,  given  in  this  tal)l(',  is  calculated  with  the  formula  : 

log  B  =  log  ({ 7-12407  -  10}//), 

in  which  //  is  the  Ijarometric  pressure  in  millimetres.    (1  mm.  =  about  ,.\-thinch.) 

30S 


I. — Astronomic  Observations. 


Thj  expedition  of  H.R.H.  was  supplied  with  four  pocket  chronometers  at 
mean  time,  and  l)efore  starting  on  the  journey  these  were  kept  under  control 
at  the  Hydrographic  Institute.  During  this  period  of  control,  the  al)Solute  and 
daily  corrections  recorded  for  the  said  chronometers  at  0**  of  mean  (Greenwich 
time  yielded  the  following  results  : — 


Date, 

Mean 

Laiige 

Laiige 

Longines 

Longines 

1 

Place. 

IWit).' 

time. 

56,.oOit, 
K,. 

K,. 

.5B,.520, 

K,. 

.560,229, 

K3. 

.560,231, 

1 

Note. 

Genoa 

20  Feb. 

11° -3 

+  9-87 

-0-27 

-23»-73 

— 0-.57 

-12' -43 

+  1--7 

-30«-83 

+  0-91 

^j 

26     „ 

11  -4 

8  -26 

27    14 

-  1  -79 

25  -39 

-0-32 

-0-78 

1-6.5 

1-91 

3  Mar. 

12  -4 

6  -66 

-0-15 

31  -04 

-0-69 

+  6  -46 

2-03 

15  -84 

1-12 

8     ., 

14  -1 

5  -93 

-U-41 

.34  -47 

+  0-17 

+  16  -88 

1-16 

10  -22 

1-09 

13    „ 

14  -6 

3  -88 

-0-4.3 

.33  •t52 

-0-60 

+  22  -68 

2-88 

4  -77 

0-.50 

19    „ 

14  -0 

1  -20 

+  0-20 

37  -20 

-1-07 

39  -9.5 

2-67 

1  -80 

0-32 

24     „ 

12  -4 

2  '23 

+  0-01 

42  -53 

-0-96 

53  -32 

2-13 

0  -18 

0-40 

29     „ 

11   -0 

2  -29 

-U-U 

47  -31 

+  0-11 

im-    3s -99 

2-19 

1  -84 

-0-13 

3  Apr. 

— 

1  -74 

+  0-63 

46  -76 

-0-29 

1    -14  -94 

2-81 

1  -19 

+  1-00 

In  pocket. 

7     ., 

— 

4  -29 

47  -99 

1    -26  '19 

5    19 

,,        ,, 

+  U  -29 

-  0  •u7 

]    5  -34 

-4-38 

Naples 

14     „ 

— 

6  -38 

47  ■r,2 

2    -04  -68 

36  -88 

In  train. 

After  leaving  Genoa,  and  more  particularly  during  the  voyage  by  steamer 
from  Naples  to  Port  Said,  the  chronometers  were  left  unregulated.  But  at 
Port  Said  they  were  again  set  going,  and  on  20th  April,  1906,  compared  with 
the  chronometer  at  the  Police  Station,  in  order  to  record  their  absolute 
correction. 

On  the  26th  of  the  same  mouth  another  comparison  was  effected  at 
Jibuti  with  the  chronometer  of  The  Elphinstone  of  the  Indian  Navy,  and  on 
4th  May,  yet  another  with  the  chronometer  of  the  Post  Office  at  Mombasa.  At 
Entebbe,  thanks  to  steps  previously  taken,  it  was  found  possil;»le  on  i2th  May 
to  make  a  fresh  comparison  by  wire  with  Mombasa,  so  that  by  means  of  these 
two  comparisons  was  obtained  a  first  diurnal  correction  of  the  chronometers  to 
be  used  in  the  subsequent  calculations. 

The  elements  of  comparison  appear  in  the  record  of  the  pocket  chrono- 
meters included  in  the  present  Report.  From  it  we  find  that  at  Mombasa,  on 
4th  July,  at  noon,  local  time,  there  were  the  following  absolute  corrections  on 
Greenwich  mean  time  : 

Ki  =  +  3*^  16'"  34'^-9 


Ko  =  +  3 


K., 


+  3 


26 
2 


9  -0 
10  -5 


C09 


Ap])endix  B. 

On  12th  May,  at  Entebbe  (noon  at  Mombasa),  we  obtained,  by  the  above- 
mentioned  telegraphic  comparison,  as  correction  on  the  mean  Greenwich  time  : 

Ki  =  +  3"  16'"  :)4'^-0 
Iv.  =  +  3  25  52  •  0 
K.,  =  +  3      2    10  -5 

From  these  elements  we  get  the  following  diurnal  corrections  for  the  three 

chronometers  : 

Bi  =  -  2«-  762 

Bo  =  +  2  •  215 

B..  =  +  3  •  437 

The  elements  respecting  the  chronometer  No.  4  have  been  omitted  because 
on  7th  May,  when  the  party  reached  Entebbe,  that  chronometer  was  stolen. 

The  start  for  Ruwenzori  was  made  at  Entebbe,  capital  of  the  Uganda 
Protectorate,  and  on  the  march  some  astronomical  observations  were  made  in 
order  to  fix  the  position  of  some  points  which  were  generally  those  of  encamp- 
ments. 01)viously  it  w;is  not  a  case  in  which  too  much  reliance  could  lie  placed 
on  the  Greenwich  time,  as  indicated  by  the  chronometers  during  the  period  of 
one  month  of  rough  travelling,  that  being  about  the  time  occupied  in  reaching 
Bujongolo,  last  point  where  were  ol)tained  astronomical  observations,  and  where 
were  begun  the  topographic  operations  for  the  survey  of  the  Ruwenzori 
highlands.  In  order,  however,  to  secure  the  greater  or  less  efficiency  of  the 
chronometric  observations,  it  was  found  expedient  to  observe,  with  the 
determination  of  the  local  time  at  Bujongolo,  the  emersion  of  B  A  C  81  from 
the  lunar  disk,  with  a  view  to  calculating  the  hour  of  Greenwich  time  at  the 
moment  when  the  phenomenon  was  o1)served. 

During  the  march  the  chrononietoi's  were  carried  on  his  person  by  H.R.H., 
who  kept  them  carefully  wrapped  up.  This  expedient  should  have  reduced  to 
a  minimum  the  influence  of  the  changes  of  temperature,  if,  during  the  hours  of 
rest,  when  being  replaced  in  their  own  boxes,  they  had  not  had  to  feel  the 
effects  of  the  temperature  inside  the  tent.  Such  effects,  though  little  different 
from  those  of  the  atmosphere,  always  differed  greatly  from  those  due  to  contact 
with  the  human  body.  Still,  when  we  consider  that  the  period  of  repose  was 
daily  repeated  for  al)out  the  same  length  of  time,  it  may  l)e  inferred  that  the 
daily  recurring  correction  cannot  have  been  affected  by  serious  error  due  to 
this  cause. 

In  any  case  it  is  to  be  regretted  that  of  the  three  chronometers  one  alone 
displayed  a  sufficiently  regular  action,  maintaining  a  fairly  slight  daily 
correction.     This  may   easily  be  seen   from   the  record   of   the   chronometers. 

310 


I.  — Astronomic  Observations. 


Here  Nos.  2  and  3  point  to  irregularities  in  their  movement.  For  this  reason, 
and  also  because  the  daily  comparisons  were  occasionally  omitted,  it  was 
considered  desirable  to  make  use  only  of  the  indications  of  the  No.  1 
chronometer,  which  was  in  fact  the  one  generally  employed  for  the  o])servations. 
With  the  view  of  fixing,  if  only  approximately,  the  daily  correction  of  the 
No.  1  chronometer  for  the  period  of  the  journey,  the  calculation  of  the 
astronomic  elements  of  Bujongolo  was  taken  in  hand,  and  here  were  recorded 
determinations  of  time  between  11th  and  28th  June,  taking  the  latitude  at 
q)  =  0  20'  16"  N.,  roughly  obtained  from  the  already  determined  elements. 
The  corrections  of  the  No.  1  chronometer  on  the  mean  local  time  were  for 
Bujongolo  : 

.     Obs.  No.  32 


11th 

June, 

S^ 

40™^ 

3 

43 

3 

48 

3 

49 

26th 

5? 

19 

19 

19 

23 

27th 

)) 

19 

38 

19 

43 

28th 

■)■> 

20 

23 

20 

27 

32  .. 

^tm 

=^ 

+ 

5'' 

15'" 

39«- 

1 

33 

5) 

= 

+ 

39 

1 

34 

)) 

= 

+ 

35 

5 

35 

)) 

= 

+ 

34 

6 

37 

55 

= 

+ 

5 

15 

33 

2 

38 

55 

= 

4. 

31 

9 

39 

55 

= 

+ 

5 

15 

29 

9 

40 

55 

= 

+ 

32 

0 

41 

55 

= 

+ 

5 

15 

26 

8 

42 

55 

r^ 

4- 

29 

•  4 

From  the  mean  of  the  results  for  llth  and   28th  June  respectively,  we 
get,  omitting  the  intermediate  observations  : 

llth  June,    S''  45'"  C,„,  =  +  5"'  15'»  37^-1 

28th     „       20    25  „    =  +  5     15     28  -1 


Interval  17'^^>'"  16*^  40""  Difference  9^-0 

Hence  :  B  =  -  0^-509. 
The  change  occurring  in  the  mean  daily  correction  of  this  chronometer  is 
seen  to  be  considerable,  if  the  value  just  found  Ije  compared  with  that  previousl}' 
obtained  at  Entebbe  (  -  2^'762).  But  now  we  merely  require  an  approximate 
value  of  the  longitude  of  Bujongolo  for  the  calculation  of  the  emersion  of 
B  A  C  81,  and  this  will  give  us  the  absolute  longitude  of  that  same  point. 
Hence  we  take  the  by  no  means  arbitrary  course  of  adopting,  as  mean  daily 
correction  of  the  No.  1  chronometer  during  the  journey,  the  mean  of  the  two 
daily  corrections  obtained  at  Entebbe  and  at  Bujongolo,  that  is  to  sav  : 

2 

*  The  date  is  astronomic,  and  the  hour  is  referred  to  tlie  mcxn  local  time  . 

311 


Appendix  B. 


Referring  the  oliservatioiis  of  the  26th,  27th  and  28th  June  to  the  date  of 
those  of  the  11th,  and  using  the  daily  correction  -  0*"509  we  get,  l)v  applying 
the  just  found  mean  daily  correction  P"635,  the  following  values  for  the 
longitude  of  Bujongolo  : 


11th 

June. — 

8un  at  AV. 

A  =  P 

SO-"  53^ 

8 

KG 

11th 

J) 

))         )) 

))  ^^ 

53 

5 

)) 

11th 

>) 

>>         J) 

5> 

49 

9 

)j 

11th 

)> 

>j         J) 

>5 

49 

0 

„ 

26th 

)) 

Sun  at  E. 

))  ^^ 

55 

5 

„ 

26th 

)? 

))         )) 

>5 

54 

3 

>» 

27th 

J' 

))         >) 

>>  ^ 

52 

8 

5) 

27th 

)' 

>)                      >5 

„   = 

54 

9 

>) 

28th 

?5 

>J                      )* 

)J 

50- 

2 

5) 

28th 

)> 

)?                      )> 

= 

52- 

8 

)> 

Groiaping  these  results  for  each  single  day  of  observation  we  get  : 
Bujongolo. — 11th  June     A  =  P  59""  5P-5 


26th 
27th 
28th 


54-9 
53-8 
51-5 


Disregarding  further  considerations  as  to  weight,  and  given  the  degree  of 
approximation  now  required,  the  mean  of  these  data  is : 


Bujongolo 


\  =  r^  59"  52^-9  KG. 


This  value  is  used  in  calculating  the  Greenwich  time  at  the  moment  of  the 
emersion  of  B  A  C  81  from  the  lunar  disk,  which  phenomenon  occiured  on 
11th  July  under  most  favourable  conditions  for  observation.  The  determina- 
tions of  the  horary  angle,  obtained  for  this  occasion  with  the  view  of 
ascertaining  the  state  of  the  chronometer  respecting  the  mean  local  time, 
gave  the  following  results  : 

Bujongolo  : 

10th  July,  21'>  18'"....0bs.  No.  47. 


10th 

21 

20 

11th 

20 

01 

11th 

20 

03 

11th 

20 

07 

11th 

20 

11 

12th 

\f< 

08 

47. 

Sun  at  E. 

C,„,=  +5'> 

15" 

'  33^ 

•0 

48 

j»        )> 

5,        =     + 

32 

•3 

56 

>)            n 

„    =  +5 

15 

34 

9 

57 

51                  51 

„  =  + 

33 

7 

58 

)>                 »> 

„  =  + 

32 

4 

59 

>)                  )) 

,5        =    + 

32 

9 

60 

!>                 )) 

„    -^  +  5 

15 

34 

4 

312 


I. —  Astronomic  Observations. 

Although  this  completely  agrees  with  the  menu  teuour  of  the  other 
results,  the  last  value  is  for  the  present  neglected,  and,  after  obtaining  the 
nieaii  of  each  day,  we  get  as  general  mean  : 

11th  July,  S"  42"'     C„„=  +5M5'"  33«-l. 

From  the  ol)servations  taken  ;it  Bujongolo  during  the  days  following  our 
arrival  we  had  (see  p.  311): 

2Sth  June,  20'' 25"       C„„=  +  o''  IS""  28^-1. 

Hence  for  this  interval  of  12-52  days  we  olitain  the  diurnal  correctioti : 

K=  +0^-398 
with  which  we  get : 

12th  July,  0"  of  local  time    C„„=  +  5"  IS™  33«-3 

Moment  of  Occultatiou „  =  +  5M  5-"  33^-2 

With  this  element  and  with  the  approximate  longitude  already  obtained, 
we  proceed  to  a  first  calculation  of  mean  Greenwich  time  at  the  moment  of 
emersion  of  B  AC  81  from  the  lunar  disk,  the  moment  when  the  No.  1 
chronometer  indicated  10''  14'"  4^  (Obs.  No.  55).     From  the  first  approximation 

we  got : 

Bujongolo X  =  P  59'"  59^-  2  E.G. 

The  calculation  for  a  second  approximation,  in  which  account  was  also 

taken   of  the   terms  of  second  order,  only  very  slightly  modified  the  result. 

Thus : 

Bujongolo \  =  1"  59""  59^- 33  KG. 

As,  however,  the  value  of  the  longitude  thus  obtained  might  be  seriously 
affected  by  even  a  slight  error  in  the  lunar  co-ordinates  given  by  the 
ephemerides,  we  consulted  some  astronomic  observers  in  order  to  ascertain 
whether,  about  the  time  when  the  expected  occultatiou  took  place,  any 
ol)servations  of  lunar  culminations  had  concurrently  lieen  made.  This  was 
done  in  order  to  introduce  into  the  calciilation  the  error  of  the  position  of 
the  moon. 

Prof.  Millosevich,  Director  of  the  Observatory  of  the  Collegio  Komano, 
in  liome,  having  untlertaken  the  determination  of  the  longitude  of  Tripoli, 
where  the  astronomer.  Dr.  Bianchi,  was  observing  transits  of  the  moon  at 
meridian,  proceeded  to  take  observations  of  lunar  culminations  at  the  Collegio 
Romano  from  the  2nd  to  the  7th  July,  1906.  From  these  he  obtained  for 
11th  July— time  of  the  occultation— a  correction  for  the  right  ascension  of 
the  moon=  +0'-l8,  and  this  agrees  perceptibly  with  that  communicated  to  us 
by  Greenwich  for  the  same  date  =  +  0*''20. 

It  may  l)e  mentioned  tliat  Greenwich  also  supplied  us  with  the  correction 
for  that  date  of  the  lunar  declination  =  +  P"8. 

313 


Appendix  11 


Hence  the  same  Prof.  Millosevich  advised  us  to  assume  with  full  confidence 
the  corrections  for  the  lunar  co-ordinates  received  from  Greenwich,  and  these 
yielded  the  longitude  for  Bujongolo  : 

X  =  2"  0™  6^-3  e:.g. 

This  again  agrees  closely  with  the  value  2*"  0™  G'^'O  East  Greenwich, 
obtained  hy  Prof.  Millosevich,  who  was  also  good  enough  to  make  the  same 
calculation. 

The  latitude  was  obtained  from  two  meridian  altitudes  and  from  two  series 
of  circummeridians  (Obs.  Nos.  38,  43,  44,  46,  and  49  to  54),  observed  partly 
by  H.R.H.  and  partl}^  by  Commander  Cagni.  Between  the  results  of  the  two 
observers  there  occurs  a  considerable  difference,  the  origin  of  which  may  be 
attributed  to  some  anomaly  of  refraction.  In  fact,  H.R.H.  was  in  this  instance 
induced  to  depart  from  his  practice  of  observing  the  lower  limb  of  the  sun, 
owing  to  an  unusual  optic  phenomenon  which  caused  him  to  notice  on  the  lower 
edge  of  the  reflected  image  a  false  limli  which  would  not  have  allowed  a  good 
observation.  Hence  the  discrepancy  in  the  results  is  to  be  attributed  to  this 
particular  state  of  the  atmosphere.  Therefore,  in  order  to  prevent  the 
observations  of  H.R.H.,  which  were  the  more  numerous,  from  too  greatly 
influencing  the  results,  the  mean  of  the  circummeridian  series  was  first 
obtained,  and  the  resulting  value  taken  as  a  mean  with  the  results  of  the 
meridian  ol)servations.     The  several  values  thus  obtained  are  : 

17th  June.  — Meridian        —  Commander  Cagni  0  =  0°  19'  50"  N. 

9th  July.  —        „  —H.R.H.  „  =  0    20  55     „ 

10th     „      — Circummerid. —  Commander  Cagni  „  =  0    19   52     „ 

11th     „      —Meridian        —H.R.H.  „  =  0    20   54     „ 

These  data  yielded  for 

Bujongolo  0  =  0    20' 23"  X. 

With  the  longitude  of  Bujongolo  is  ol_)tained  the  al)solute  correction  of 
the  chronometer  for  the  period  of  arrival  at  that  encampment,  and  subsequently 
the  mean  daily  correction  of  the  same  chi-ononieter  for  the  period  occupied  by 
the  journey. 

Thus  was  obtained  : 

Bujongolo.— 19th  June,  3'^  45"'    . 


=  +5'^  15'"  37^-1 
=  +  2      0      6-3 

Ki 

=  +3    15    30-8 

This  absolute  coii"ectii)n  on  mean  Greenwich  time  corresponds  with  the 
date  of  11th  June  at  3''  45"'  of  mean  local  time.  And  as  at  P]ntel)be  on 
11  til  May,  at  23"  31"'  of  mean  local  time,  we  had   K,  =  3"  IG'"  34'*-  9,  we  shall 

314 


I. —  Astronomic  Observations. 

get,  taking  account  of  the  difference  of  longitude  between  Bujongolo  and 
Entel)l)e  (  +  9™  45^),  the  daily  mean  correction  K,  =  —  2*'  123,  which  we  shall 
utilize  for  the  determinations  of  position  made  in  the  period  from  11th  May  to 
11th  June. 

Owing  to  an  unforeseen  circumstance,  on  the  return  journey,  and  after  the 
arrival  of  the  expedition  at  Fort  Xorth  Portal,  the  No.  1  chronometer  imder- 
went,  like  the  others,  a  perceptible  change  in- its  movement.  This  was  due  to  a 
considerable  delay  which  occurred  in  winding  it,  so  that  once  it  was  necessary 
to  proceed  to  the  revision  of  the  longitude  of  Fort  Portal  which  had  been 
determined  on  the  outward  journey.  On  the  return,  the  conveyance  of 
Greenwich  time  from  Bujongolo  will  lie  limited  to  this  intermediate  p(jint, 
since,  o\A'ing  to  the  above-mentioned  change  in  the  movement  of  the  chrono- 
meter, it  would  be  impossible  to  convey  said  time  to  Entebbe  for  purposes  of 
control. 

Retaining  the  value  of  the  daily  correction  just  found  (K^  =z  —  2^  •  123) 
as  a  c^uantity  proportional  to  the  time,  and  ^Wth  the  (approximate)  latitude  of 
Fort  Portal  =  0'  39'  20"  X.,  we  get  the  value  of  the  longitude  from  four  series 
of  altitudes  (Obs.  Xos.  17,  IS,  19,  and  20),  obtaining  : 

Fort  Portal.— 31st  May.     A  =  2''  1'"  32^-2  E.G. 

)5  )'  5) '^^  '-  >) 

J>  J>  55     ^  Oil         ,, 

))  55  55     ^^  "^"^  '  5) 

and  as  mean  : 

Fort  Portal     A  =  2i' 1"^  32^-5  E.G. 

a  value  which  is  adopted  as  the  longitude  of  said  place. 

The  latitude   of  Fort   Portal   is  obtained   from  a  series   of  three  circum- 

meridians  observed  on  31st  May,  and  from  meridian  altitudes  of  22nd  and 

28th  July  (Obs.  Xos.  21,  22,  23,  75,   and  86).     The  mean  of  the  five  results 

yielded  for : 

Fort  Portal     <^  =  0^  39' 28"  X. 

a  value  which  differs  little  from  that  employed  for  the  calculation  of  the 
longitude. 

Using  the  longitude  just  found,  we  get  the  absolute  correction  of  Xo.  1 
chronometer  at  Fort  Portal  (return  journey)  by  means  of  eight  series  of 
observations,  as  under  : 

K,  =  4-3*^  15""  16^-1 

.,    =  15-9 

17-5 

16-5 

315 


'ort  Portal. 

—21st  July,  4''  11"\ 

..Obh 

=.  Xo.   73  : 

4   18 

74; 

19  53 

,5          76; 

19  55 

,5          77; 

Appendix  B 

Fort  Portal. 


22iid  July, 

19'^  53-"       .. 

Obs. 

No, 

.78; 

Ki 

-  3'>  15™  18^' 

•8 

22nd      „ 

19  55 

>) 

79; 

n 

20- 

1 

23rd      „ 

20     6 

>) 

80; 

>> 

=               22  ■ 

6 

23rd      „ 

20     8 

j> 

81; 

M 

_               22 

■  2 

Of  this  the  mean  for  the  double  series  required  l)y  the  above-mentioned 
inversion  of  the  glass  roof  of  the  artificial  horizon  is  : 


21st  July, 

i""  15'" 

Kj=+3M5™16« 

•0 

21st      „ 

19    54 

„  =  +             17 

•0 

22nd     „ 

19    54 

„=+              19 

■  5 

23rd     „ 

20      7 

„  =  +              22 

•4 

Referring  these  values  to  the  date  coinciding  with  the  first  of  them,  and 
noting  the  hour  indicated  by  the  chronometer,  we  get  : 

21st  July  (civil)— (p.m.) :  /,  =  10'"  57'"  49^..K^=3''  15-"  15^-8 

as  the  mean  on  Greenwich  mean  time. 

From  the  determinations  of  the  time  at  Bujongolo  on  the  10th,  11th, 
and  12th  July  (astronomic  dates),  the  results  of  which  have  been  given  at 
p.  312,  we  obtain  the  absolute  correction  of  Xo.  1  chronometer.  Referring  all 
the  values  to  the  date  of  the  last,  and  passing  from  the  absolute  correction 
of  the  chronometer  to  the  absolute  correction  on  Greenwich,  we  get : 

13th  July  (civil)— (a.m.) :  /,.  =  2'>  51'"  6\..K,  =  3''  15"'  28s-4 

from  which  in  the  interval  between  the  13th  and  21st  July  the  daily  correction 
of  the  chronometer  is  found  to  be  : 

Kj  =  -  P-.521. 

As  already  stated  at  p.  315,  on  the  return  journey  the  chronometers  at 
Fort  Portal  varied  considerably  through  lack  of  control,  so  that,  before  leaving 
this  place,  we  proceeded  to  the  determination  of  their  correction  by  means  of 
six  series  of  altitudes,  the  results  being : 

K,  =  +  3"  32-"  57^-  6 
51-0 

„  =  59-5 

59-9 
64-8 

„  =  64-7 

The  disagreement  of  the  second  sciies  induced  us  to  abandon  it,  the 
influence  of  some  error  in  the  observations  being  obvious. 

31G 


27th  July. 

-Obs. 

Xo 

.82;  C=10"  20"'  IP 

27th     „ 

83;  ,,-10    23      0 

28th     „ 

84;  „=    2    21       0 

28th     „ 

85;  „=    2    23       8 

31.st     „ 

87;  ,,-10    25    44 

31. St     „ 

88;  ,,  =  10    27     53 

I. — Astronomic  Observations. 

Eeferriiig  the  daily  values  of  the  ahsulute  currectiou  to  the  mean  date  of 
the  values  of  the  last  double  series  we  get : 

31st  July  (civil)  (p.m.),  f,  =  10''  26'"  48^..Ki  -  +  3"  33'"  r,*-  0 
which  represents  the  absolute  correction  of  the  chronometer  on  Greenwich  time 
before  starting  on  the  return  journey  from  Fort  Portal  to  Entebbe.  On 
reaching  the  latter  place  it  was  found  impossible  to  get  a  new  telegraphic 
comparison  with  Mombasa,  as  on  the  outward  journey.  Hence  proceeded  to 
the  determination  of  the  al)solute  correction  of  the  chronometer,  usincr  for 
Entebbe  the  longitude  2''  9'"  47^  East  Greenwich  given  us  by  the  competent 
local  authority.     The  result  was : 

16th  August.— Obs.  Xo.  110  ;  t,.=  W  29""    T'^  ...     K,  =  +  3^  3.3'"  29"-  9 

16th       „                  „         111;  ,,  =  10    31     13  „  =                  28-5 

17th        „                   „          112;  „--.    2    43     55  „  =                   25-2 

17th       „                  „          113;  „=    2    46       1  „   =                   23-8 

We  see /^  ^inm  that  in  this  interval  of  little  over  16  hours  the  movement 
of  the  chronometer  indicates  a  strong  variation,  such  as  had  never  occurred 
during  the  whole  journey.  Instead  of  taking  the  mean  of  these  values,  it  was 
thought  expedient  to  use  the  results  alone  of  the  two  series  of  16th  August 
observed  immediately  after  the  arrival  at  Entelibe.     From  these  we  o-et  : 

16th  August  (civil),  (p.m.):  10-  30'"  10'. ..Kj  =  +  3''  33"'  29^-2 

so  that  the  daily  correction  of  the  chronometer  to  be  used  in  the  interval  fi'um 
31st  July  to  1.5th  August  was  : 

Ki  =  +  P-.510. 

The  question  now  was  to  see  what  degree  of  confidence  might  be  placed 
in  the  daily  corrections  which  had  so  far  been  olitained.  From  the  fact  that 
the  longitude  of  a  few  points  was  determined  both  on  the  outward  and  the 
return  journey,  we  were  offered  a  means  of  control  which,  if  it  stood  alone 
would  not  he  alisolutely  safe,  since  it  was  always  possible  that  the  errors  by 
which  the  accepted  daily  corrections  might  be  afiected  might  be  such,  in 
magnitude  and  sign  (plus  or  minus),  as  to  lead  to  longitudinal  results  apparently 
concordant  though  really  very  incorrect.  As,  however,  there  were  several 
points  determined  under  such  conditions,  so  that  in  some  cases  we  could 
ascertain  the  degree  of  concordance  in  the  longitudinal  results,  from  this  might 
be  inferred  both  the  practical  value  of  the  daily  corrections  that  had  been 
adopted,  and  the  measure  of  confidence  that  might  be  placed  in  the  positions 
obtained  from  the  astronomic  observations. 

317 


Appendix  B. 

The  position  of  Il>anda,  a  place  lying  b^'tween  Bujongolo  and  Fort  Portal, 
was  determined  both  on  going  and  returning.  From  four  meridian  altitudes 
(Obs.  Nos.  27,  65,  66,  and  67),  we  obtained  for  this  point  the  latitude 
0  =  0'  19'  59"  X..  and  from  this  were  deduced  the  following  longitudinal 
Talues  : — 

On  the  outward  joui-ney  : 

Ibanda  Obs.  Xo.  28 A  =  2'^  0'"  iP-0  E.G. 


»                             V 

29 

Mean 

)> 

43 

•1 

>) 

-  2'' 

0'»  43 

•5 

On  the  return  journey  : 

Iltanda. — OIjs.   Xo 

.  62 

\  -  2'^ 

0'" 

43^- 

9  E.G. 

55 

63 

5>   ^^ 

41 

•5      „ 

)) 

6-1 

)? 

42 

•5       „ 

?) 

68 

')   ^^ 

42 

■  'i       „ 

>) 

69 

J)    ~ 

43 

•5      „ 

Mean     „  =  2'' 0™  42^- 8       „ 

Such  is  the  agreement  listween  thsse  two  results  that  we  may  even 
disregard  all  considerations  as  to  the  weights  to  be  adopted  for  the  values 
obtained,  whether  as  regards  the  number  of  concurrent  observations,  or  the 
length  of  time  during  which  Greenwich  time  had  to  l>e  conveyed.  In  this 
case  there  intervened  22  daj's  for  the  determination  of  longitude  on  going 
(that  is,  Greenwich  time  was  conveyed  for  22  days),  compared  with  a  mean  of 
about  5  days  of  conveyance  for  the  determination  macL>  on  oui'  return. 

Moreover,  given  the  degree  of  accuracy  that  may  be  required,  allowing 
for  the  available  means  and  the  limited  lime  at  the  disposal  of  the  expedition, 
we  found  it  advisable  to  adopt  as  the  value  of  the  longitude  of  Ibanda  the 
me.m  of  the  two  results,  namely  : 

ll)an(la A  =  2''  0"'  43^-2  E.G. 

In  the  district  between  Entebbe  and  Port  Portal  there  are  two  other  points 
which  offered  the  same  conditions,  and  which  consecjuently  contributed  to 
supply  means  of  control.  For  Kichiomi,  which  is  one  of  these  two  points,  we 
■obtained  by  the  observation  of  a  meridian  altitude  both  going  and  returning 
{Obs.  Nos.  10  and  99)  the  following  result : 

Kichiomi 0  =  0    31'  20"  X. 

Adopting  this  value  for  the  calculation  of  longitude  we  obtained  on  going  : 
Kichiomi.— 01)s.  Xo.  11 \  =  2"  4'"  27^-3  E.G. 

318 


I. — Astronomic  Observations. 


On  the  return 


Kichiomi.— Obs.  No.  100 \  =  2'^  4™  26^-0  IvG. 

„       „     101  „  25-9    „ 


Mean \  =  2"  4""  26«- 0    „ 

Here  also  the  agreement  between  the  two  results  is  satisfactory,  and  for 
the  reasons  already  stated  wa  retain  as  definite  vahie  the  mean  of  the  two 
results,  as  under : 

Kichiomi \  =  2'^  4"^  26"- 7. 

An  analogous  process  is  taken  for  Muyongo,  where  the  latitude 
(p=--  0^  30'  41"  N.  was  obtained  by  two  circummeridians  (Obs.  Nos.  12 
and  13)  observed  on  going;  introducing  this  vahxe  in  the  calculation  of  the 
longitude,  for  which  there  are  two  series  of  altitudes  on  going  and  two  on 
returning,  we  get : 

Going  : 

Misongo.— Obs.  No.  14 \  =  2''  3™  56^-5  E.G. 

15  „=  55^-8     „ 

Returning  : 

Misongo.— Obs.  No.  97 \  =  2^  3™  55^-4  E.G. 

98  „=  54-6     „ 

or  taking  the  simple  mean  : 

Misongo X  =  2^'  3™  55^  6  E.G. 

Thus  we  get  a  third  test  regarding  the  practical  value  of  the  daily 
corrections  adopted  for  the  chronometer. 

And  since  the  results  of  longitude  were  repeatedly  concordant  in  a  measure 
greater  than  had  lieen  expected,  we  may  proceed  to  the  calculation  of  the 
elements  of  position  for  all  the  other  points  determined  during  the  expedition, 
being  confident  of  incurring  no  serious  errors. 

Bujongo  (near  Lake  Isolt). — The  latitude  was  obtained  by  a  meridian 
altitude  observed  on  the  outward  journey  (Obs.  No.  1),  and  the  longitude 
\)\  two  series  of   altitudes  also  on  going  (Obs.  Nos.  2  and  3)  : 

19th  May  <5^  =  0    25'  44"  N \  =  2"  4™  53^- 4  E.G. 

» =  2   7    54-5   „ 


Bujongo     0  =  0°  25'  44"  N X  =  2'' 7™  53- 9  „ 

(Lakel-solt)  „  =  3r  5S' 28"    „ 


319 


Appendix  B. 

Bimhye. — Latitude  determined  by  two  meridian  altitudes  (going  and 
returning,  Obs.  Nos.  4  and  107) ;  longitude  by  two  series  of  altitudes  (return, 
Obs.  Xos.  108  and  109). 

20th  May  0  =  0'  31'  56"  N. 

10th  August         „  =  0    31  57     „ 

11th         „  \  =  2^7™  26^-1  E.G. 

11th         ,.  „  =  2    7    26-4      „ 


Bimbye  0  =  0°  31' 56"  N.    ...  \  =  2'^  7'"  26'- 3      „ 

,,  =  31°  51' 34"      „ 

KijemuJa. — Latitude    determined    hy    a    meridian    altitude    (return,    Obs. 
No.  106),  the  longitude  being  estimated  at  2''  6'"  E.G. 

Kijemula. — 9th  August  0  =  0°  35'  55"  X. 

Muduina. — Latitude  obtained  by  a  meridian  altitude  (going,  Ol)s.  Xo.  5), 
and  longitude  h\  two  series  of  altitudes  (going,  Obs.  Nos.  6  and  7)  : 

23rd  May    0  =  0    36'  19  "  N.        ...       X=  2'^  5""  40^-  3  E.G. 

„=  2    5    40-9      „ 


Muduma      0  =  0°  36' 19"  N.        ...      \=  2    5    40-6      „ 

„=   3r  25'9" 

Kasiba. — Position  determined  on  the  return  :  Latitude,  l)y  a  meridian 
altitude  (Obs.  No.  103);  longitude  by  two  series  of  altitudes  (Obs.  Nos.  104 
and  105)  : 


8th  August 
8th       „ 

0  =  0°  40' 34"  N.      . 

. .       \  =  2''  5""  53^-  2 

„  =  2    5    50  •  8 

. . .      \  =  2''  5'"  52*-  0 
,,  =  31°  28' 0" 

E.G, 

Kasiba 

0  =  0°  40' 34"  N. 

55 

Lu-aiinituku:a. — Latitude  obtained  by  two  meridian  altitudes,  one  going  the 
other  returning  (Obs.  Nos.  8  and  102);  longitude  by  a  series  of  altitudes  going 
(Obs.  No.  9)  : 

24th  May  0  =  0°  31'    4"  X.      ...         \  =  2"  5"^  1 6^- 5     E.G. 

7th  August  „  =  0    30  27    „ 

Lwamiuukuza       0  =  0°  30'  45"  X.      ...         A  =  2"  5""  16«- 5        „ 

„  =  3ri9'7" 

320 


I. — Astronomic  Observations. 

Kniho — Latitude  determined  by  a  eircummeridiau  altitude  going  and  four 
returning  (Obs.  Nos.  18,  91,  92,  93,  and  94);  longitude  results  from  two  series 
of  altitiides  on  return  (01  )S.  Nos.  95  and  96) : 

27th  May  0  =  0°  29'  56"  N. 

2nd  August  „-0   30   36    „        ...      \  =  2''  3'"  7^- 8  E.G. 

2nd       „  ,,=-^0    30  09    „         ...       „-2    3    7-9      „ 

2nd       „  „  =  0    29   26    „ 

2nd       „  „=0   30   U    „ 


Kaibo  0  =  0°  30'    4"  N .       ...      \  =  2''  .3"  7^-  9  E.G. 

,,  =  30    46' 58"     ., 

IhdUi. — Using  the  latitude  estimated  at  0  =  0'  39'  30",  the  longitude  is 
obtained  l»y  two  series  of  altitudes  observed  on  the  return  (Obs.  Nos.  89  and  90)  : 

1st  August  \  =  2''2"34^-3     E.G. 

1st      „  ,  =  2    2    .34-8        „ 


Butiti A=2'^  2-"  37^-5 

,,  =  30' 38' 37" 

Bmvona. — With  the  approximate  value  .\  =  2''  1"^  17*  East  Greenwich,  the 
latitude  is  calculated  liy  a  meridiaii  altitude  observed  on  going  (Olts.  Xo.  24) : 
1st  June. — Duwona 0=0'  33'  25"  X. 

Butanuha. — Latitude   determined   on   the  return    liy  a   meridian    altitude 
(Obs.  Xo.  70) ;  and  longitude  by  two  series  of  altitudes  (Obs.  X"os.  71  and  72) : 


:0th  July 

0  =  0°  26'  33"  X.      . 

..       \  =  2»^  1"  4^-1 

E.G 

:Oth    „ 

„  =  2     1     4-6 

'» 

Butanuka 

0  =  0°  26' 33"  X.      ., 

\  =  2'^     jm   ^s.j^ 

,,  =  30=  16'  6" 

)j 

Bihunga. — Longitude  obtained  by  two  series  of  altitudes  on  going,  using 
0=0'  20'  20"  X.  obtained  from  the  maps  (Obs.  Xos.  30  and  31) : 

4th  June A  =  2'' O"' 27*-0  E.G. 

=  20     27-2 

XaMtavxi. — Obtaining  from  the  maps  the  latitude  0  =  0  20'  20 "  X.,  the 
longitude  was  had  l)y  a  single  series  of  altitudes  at  the  artificial  horizon 
without  roof  (Obs.  Xo.  61)  : 

Xakitawa  A  =  2^  0'"  19^-6  E.G. 

„  =  30'  4'  54" 

321  Y 


Appendix  B. 


Summary  of  the  geographical  positions  olitaiuetl  l)y  astronomic  observations 
taken  during  the  outward  and  retuin  journey  between  Entebbe  and  Bujongolo. 


Geographic 

xl  Position. 

Phices. 

Latitude  North. 

Longitude 

E.G. 

Bujongo  (Lake  Isolt) 

0 

25 

44 

31 

t 
58 

28 

Bimliye 

0 

31 

56 

31 

51 

34 

Kijeninla 

0 

35 

55 

Mudunia 

0 

36 

19 

31 

25 

9 

Kasiba 

0 

40 

34 

31 

28 

0 

Lwamutuku 

0 

30 

45 

31 

19 

7 

Kichiomi 

0 

31 

20 

31 

6 

40 

Muyongo 

0 

30 

41 

30 

58 

54 

Kail)o 

0 

30 

4 

30 

46 

58 

Butiti 

30 

38 

37 

Fort  Portal 

0 

39 

28 

30 

23 

7 

Duwona 

0 

33 

25 

Butanuka 

0 

36 

33 

30 

16 

6 

Kasongo 

30 

15 

9 

Ibaiida 

0 

19 

59 

30 

10 

48 

Bihunga 

30 

6 

46 

Nakitawa 

30 

4 

54 

Bujongolo 

0 

20 

23 

30 

1 

34 

322 


EEGISTER    OF    THE 
ASTE GNOMIC    OBSERVATIONS. 


323 


Appendix  B. 


REGISTER  OF   THE 


Civil  Date, 
190B. 


Observer. 


Place. 


Latitude 

JS. 


LoEgitude 
E.G. 


2  d 

■3  o 

=*  J 

o 

O    ^ 

Barona. 

i^ 

13 

mm. 

•o   2 

c  -r. 

""3 

.S« 

1- 

19th  May 


20th  May 
23rJ  Mav 


2tth  ilay 


25th  Mav 


26th  Mav 


1      n.R.H. 


8 
9 

10 
11 

12 

13 

14 

15 


Bujongo 
(nr.Lake 
Isolt) 


Bimbye  .. 
Muduiua 


0  25  44 


0  36  19 


Lwamutu- 
kuza 


Kichiomi 


Muyongo 


Wonyongo 


0  30  45 


0  31  20 


0  30  41 


h.  m.  8. 
2     7  54 


2     7  26 
2     5  41 


663-9 


661-0 


666-8 
658  -0 
654  -5 


26  -0     31  -0     OA 


24-0  i  29-0 


26  -0      28  -0 
22  -0      23  -5 


23  0 


2     5  16 


2     4  27 


3  56 


657-3 

656  0 

653  -55 

652  0 

658-0 

„ 

657  -0 

! 

22-0 


24-5 


OAA 
OAv 

OA 
OA 
OAa 

OAv 


29  0     OA 


22  -0  i  22  -0      OA  A 


28-0      24-5 
24  -0     24  -0 


25-0 


25-0 


27-0 


25-0 


OA 
OAA 

OA 

OAa 
OAv 


324 


I. — Astronomic  Observations. 

ASTEOXOMIC  OBSERVATIONS. 


Conditions 

under  whicli 

the  Aster 

was 
observed. 


Instrumental 
Height. 


Instrument 

of 
Correction. 


Hour  of  the 
Chronometer. 


O    4> 

>^  o 

X)    O 


Absolute 
Correction  of 

the 
Chronometer. 


Sun  0       PS     141     fi  20 


Sun  0  to  W 

Sun  O  to  W 

Sun  O  PS 
Sun  O  p.S 
Sun  0  lo  W 

Sun  0  lo  W 

Sun  0  PS 
Sun  O  to  W 

Sun  O  PS 
Sun  O  to  AV 


Sun    O.  Cir- 
cumm. 


53  0  0 
52  40     0 

52  20     0 

52  0  0 
51  40  0 
51  20     0 

140  52  30 

139  47  20 

50  20  0 
50  0  0 
49  40     0 

49  20  0 
49  0  0 
4S  40     0 

139  14  20 


43  20  0 

43     0  0 

42  40  0 

13S  50  20 

52     0  0 

51  40  0 

138  28  40 


I  138  25  40 

SunOtoW       44     0  0 

43  40  0 

43  20  0 

Sun  O  to  W       43     0  0 

42  40  0 

I     42     0  0 


+  1     0 

+  1  20 

+  1  20 

+  1  20 
+  1  40 
+  1  45 

+  ]   45 

+  1  0 
+  1     0 

+  2  0 
+  1     0 

+  1  50 

+  2  10 
+  2  10 


h.    m.      8. 


10  38  31  -0 


10  40  36  -0 

41  22-5 

42  7  0 


10  46  31  -0 
47  17  -0 
47  58  -5 

10  48  42  -0 

49  24  -5 

50  8-0 


11     1  57-0 

2  48-0 

3  18  0 


10  43  59  0 
44  43  0 


16  33  25  0 


16  40  30  -0 

11     1  48-5 

2  33  0 

3  18-0 

11     4  00-0 

4  43-0 

5  29-0 


b.    m.    s. 


+  3  16  19-7 


+  3  16  ]9-7 


+  3  16  11-2 


+  3  16  11  -2 


+  3  16     9  0 


i  +3  16  6-9 

1  I  +3  16  5-2 

i 

1  +3  16  5-2 

1  +3  16  4-8 

1  +3  16  4-8 


Results. 


(^  =  0°25'44"N. 


]i.    m.     s. 
A  =  2     7  53-4E.a. 


b.   m.     s. 
A  =  2     7  54 -5  E.G. 


(|)  =  0°31'56"]Sr. 

<^  =  0°36'19"  N. 

b.    m.     s. 
\  =  2     5  40-3  E.a. 


b.    m.     s. 
A  =  2     5  40-9  E.G. 


(p  =  0°Sl'    4"N. 


Ii.    m.     s. 
A  =2     5  16-5  E.G. 


^  =  0°30'47"  N. 

b.    m.     8. 
A  =  2     4  27-3  E.G. 

^  =  0'30'51"N. 


<^  =  0°30'30"N. 

li.  m.     8. 
A  =  2     3  36-5  E.G. 


b.  m.    s. 
A  =  2     3  55-8  E.G. 


325 


Appendix  B. 


Civil  Date, 
1906. 

o 

o 

1 

Observer.          Place. 

Latitude 

N. 

Longitude 
E.G-. 

Barom. 
mm. 

Therm  om.       an- 
nexed (Celsius). 

Temp,  of  tlie  Air 
(Celsius). 

5  c 
3  o 

•Is 

1 

o         ,         ,/ 

li.  m.  s. 

o 

o 

27th  May 

16 

H.R.H.            Kaibo 

2     3     8 

652  0 

24-0 

23-6 

OA 

31st  May 

17 

Fort 

0  39  28 

640-0 

22-0 

21  0 

OA  A 

Portal 

i> 

18 

- 

» 

» 

)> 

" 

" 

OA  V 

•J 

19 

" 

" 

>) 

i» 

" 

>> 

OAa 

•» 

20 

'• 

>> 

" 

» 

•' 

>• 

OAv 

•1 

21 

.. 

.. 

2     1  32 

641-0 

22-0 

21-0 

OA 

» 

22 

., 

)> 

» 

)• 

>i 

„ 

)> 

>» 

23 

•' 

" 

>» 

» 

» 

» 

)> 

Ist  June 

24 

.,                  Duwona 

2     1  17 

636  -4 

24-0 

24-0 

OA 

2nd  June 

25 

Kazongo 

0  21  30 

649-0 

26-0 

27  0 

OAA 

)> 

26 

" 

" 

)> 

)) 

>' 

OAv 

3rd  June 

27 

„ 

Ibanda 

2     0  43 

652-8 

26-5 

25-5 

OA 

>> 

28 

u 

» 

0  19  59 

650-0 

25-0 

23-0 

OAA 

» 

29 

1> 

>i 

>< 

i 

» 

)> 

OAv 

326 


I. — Astronomic  Observations. 


<o 

rg 

Conditions 

uiuler  which 

the  Aster 

was 
observed. 

Instnimental 
Height. 

Instrument 

of 
Correction. 

Hour  of  the 
Chronometer. 

'"  2 

Is 

Absolute 
Correction  of 

the 
Chronometer. 

Results. 

1^ 

,      ,/ 

,     „ 

h. 

m.    s. 

h.  m.      s. 

Sun  0     Cir- 

138    6    0 

+  1  40 

6 

36  29  0 

1 

+  3  16     8-2 

.^  =  0^ 

29'  56"  N. 

ca  mm. 

Sun  0   to  E 

36  14  40 
36  35  40 

36  52  20 

37  2  40 

+  2  20 

1 

58     5  -0 

58  50-0 

59  28  0 
59  50  0 

1 

+  3  15  .54-9 

^A  =  2 

m      ?. 
1  32  -2  E.G. 

Sun  0  to  E 

37  20  40 

37  45  40 

38  4  20 
38  15  40 

+  2  20 

2 

0  28-0 

1  24  0 

2  3  0 
2  29-5 

1 

+  3  15  54-9 

ll. 

»A=2 

m.    s. 

1  31  -8  E.a. 

Sun  0  to  E 

54  20     0 

54  40     0 

55  0     0 
55  20     0 

+  2  20 

2 

37  37-0 

38  19-5 

39  6  0 
39  49  o 

1 

+  3  15  54-9 

h. 

>\  =  2 

m.    s. 
1  311  E.G. 

Sun  0  to  E 

60     9     0 

60  18  20 

61  14  20 

+  2  20 

2 

50  22  -0 
50  -44-0 
52  47  -0 

1 

+  3  15  54-8 

1        ^'■ 
^A  =  2 

m.    s. 
1  34  -7  E.G. 

Sun  0     Cir- 

134  31  40 

+  1     0 

6 

8  50-0 

1 

+  3  15  55  0 

(p  =  0- 

38' 45"  N. 

cunini. 

)> 

134  54  20 

+  1     0 

6 

11     0  0 

1 

>> 

<p  =  0° 

39' 49"  N. 

135     1  40 

+  1     0 

6 

11  59  0 

1 

., 

4)-0° 

39'  7"  X. 

Sun  0       PS 

136  38  40 

+  2  20 

({>  =  0° 

33'  25"  X. 

Sun  0  to  W 

42  20     0 
42     3  40 
41  51  20 

+  1  20 

11 

8  35  0 

9  12  0 
9  38  0 

1 

+  3  15  49-9 

!-'■ 

111.       s. 

1     0  -8  E  G. 

Sun  0  to  W 

41  28  20 
41  18     0 
41  5l  40 

+  1  20 

11 

10  29  -0 

10  52  -0 

11  51  0 

1 

+  3  15  49 -9 

U  =  2 

m.     s 
10-4  E.G. 

Sun  0       PS 

135  39  20 

+  1  30 

<|>  =  0' 

19'  26"  X. 

Sun  0  to  W 

44    0    0 
43  40     0 
43  20     0 

+  1   30 

11 

5  16  0 

6  10 
6  44  0 

1 

+  3  15  47-8 

I"- 

ni.     ?. 
0  44  -0  E.G. 

Sun  0  to  W 

43     0     0 
42  40     0 
42  20     0 

+  1  30 

11 

7  30  0 

8  12  0 
8  56  0 

^ 

+  3  15  47  7 

I"-- 

m.     s. 
0  43  1  E.G. 

327 


Appendix  B. 


Civil  ])ate, 
1906. 


;< 


Observer. 


Place. 


Latilude 

N. 


Longitude 
E.G. 


•< 

Barora. 

O 

;i3 

mm. 

o 

O    3 

c-2 

^"5 

.2=1 

gs 

Sid 

1-^ 

4th  June 


11th  June 


30 

31 

32 

33 

31. 

35 

36 
37 

38 


28th  June        39 


ITtli  June 
27th  June 


H.R.H. 


Com.  Cagni 


Bihunga 


Bujougolo       0  20  23 


O  /  // 


0  20  20 


40 


0  20  23 


h.  m.    8. 


611-0 


488-4 


2     0    6       48S-3 

489-2 


490-0 


o 

o 

20-0 

20-0 

6  0 

ji 
4-0 

jj 

>> 

» 

5-0 

5-0 

5-0 

6-0 

7-0 

6-8 

1 

OAA 

CAv 

OAa 

OAv 

OAa 
OAv 
OA 


OAv 


OAA 


OAv 


328 


I. — Astronomic  Observations. 


Conditions 

under  which 

the  Aster 

was 
observed. 


Instrumental 
Height. 


Instrument 

of 
Correction. 


^  « '       Absolute 
Hour  of  the    i  <=  2  i    Correction  of 


Chronometer. 


^    O 


the 
Chronometer. 


Results. 


Sun  0  to  W 

Sun  0  to  W 

Sun  0  to  W 

Sun  O  to  W 

Sun  0  to  W 

Sun  0  to  W 

Sun  0     PS 
Sun  0.  to  E 

Sun  0  to  E 

Sun  O  loE 

Sun  0  to  E 


47  20  0 
47  0  0 
46  40     0 


46  20 
46  0 
45  40 


34  21  0 
34  38  40 

34  TiQ     0 

35  14  39 

35  38  20 

36  9  0 
36  22  40 
36  35  40 

36  48     0 

37  4  10 

43  5  20 
43  17  20 
43  30  40 
43  47  0 

43  56  20 

44  26  0 

44  38  40 

45  0  0 
.45  21  0 

45  41  50 

45  58  40 

46  22  0 


+  0  .50 


+  0  50 


P3  33  20   +1  25 
63  14  40 
62  50  20 

62  19  40   +1  25 
62  8  40 
61  54  40 

60  0  0   +1  25 
59  40  0 

59  20  0   +1  25 
59  0  0 

133  22  23   +2  20 


+  3  40 


+  3  40 


+  3  20 


+  3  20 


h.  m.  s. 

10  58  22 
£9  6 
59  49 


11 


0  34 

1  18 

2  2 


10  23  26 

24  9 

25  4 

10  2Q   11 

26  39 

27  7 

10  31  30 

32  14 

10  33  0 

33  45 


2  2 
3 
4 
4 
5 


2  6  36 
7  6 

7  33 

8  0 
8  37 

2  22  6 

22  33 

23  3 

23  38 

24  0 

2  25  5 

25  33 

26  18 

27  4 

27  50 

28  2^ 

29  20 


li.  ni.  8. 
+  3  15  45-7 


+  3  15  45  -7 


h.  m.  8.  ■ 
A  =  2  0  27  0  E.G 


h.  m.  s. 
A  =  2  0  27-2  E.G. 


li.  in.  s. 
C,,„=  +5  15  39-1 


h.  m.  s. 
Q„n=  +5  15  39  1 

h.  m.  s. 

Cc;;;=  +5   15   35   5 

h.  m.  s. 
Q,„n=  +5  15  34-6 

^  =  0^9' 50"  K 


h.  m.  s. 
■  Qtm  =  +  5  15  33-2 


I       h.  m.  s. 
\-Q„n=  +5  15  31-9 


1 

h. 

m. 

s 

1 

+  5 

15 

29 

•9 

1 

J 

1 

li. 

m. 

|>c,„,= 

+  5 

15 

32 

•0 

329 


Appendix  B. 


Civil  Date, 
1906. 


Observer. 


Place. 


Latitude 


Longitude 
E.G. 


Barom. 


2  d 

'Z  0 

fl'^ 

<e  2 

< 

■3 

'0 

<s 

0  3 

3W 

B^ 

0    ?! 

^-3 

F   0 

^    Hi 

.2« 

2  0 

^- 

1^ 

H 

H 

29tli  June 


9th  July 
10th  Julv 


11th  Julv 


41 


42 


Com.  Cagni 


S.A.R. 

Com.  Cugni 


43 

44 

45 
46 

47     H  R.H. 


48 

49 
50 
51 
52 
5:3 
54 


a      I       II 


1).  m.  s. 


Bujongolo      0  20  23 


489-7 


5-6 


0  20  23 


2     0    6       489-5 

488-5 

2    0    6       488-5 
489-7 


2     0     6       488-5 


]3  0 

8-2 


8-2 


6  0 


5-6 


11  0 
9-0 


9-0     OA 


OA  A 


OA  V 


OA 
OA 


b-o 

» 

OA  A 
OAv 

6-0 

OA 

>) 

330 


I. — Astronomic  Observations. 


Conditions 

under  which 

tlie  Aster 

was 
observed. 


Instrumental 
Height. 


Instrument 

of 
Correction. 


Hour  of  the 
Chronometer. 


j^  _2  Absolute 

«  S  Correction  of 

V,  o  the 

,0  o  Chronometer. 


Results. 


Sun  0.  to  E 


Sun  O  to  E 


Sun  0     PS 

Sun  O  Cir- 
cumm. 


Sun  O  Cir- 
cumm. 

Sun  0.  to  E 


Sun  0.  to  E 


Sun  7)  Cir- 
cumm. 


Sun  -Q   Cir- 
cumm. 

Sun  J)  Cir- 
cumm. 

Sun  0^  Cir- 
cumm. 

Sun  -Q  Cir- 
cumm. 


o  /      //       I  in 

62  -46  40      +1  o2 

63  3  40 
63  17  0 
63  36     0 

63  57     0 

64  37     0      + 1  52 

64  53     0 

65  17  40 
65  36     0 

65  47     0  I 

136  17  40  '    +  1     0 
135     9  40      +1     0 


135  22  20  !    +1     0 

87     0     0      +1  50 
87  20     0 
87  40     0 


89  49     0 

90  0     0 
90  20     0 

136     8  40 


+  1  f.O 

+  1  50 
136  42  0  +1  50 
]  36  46  0  +1  oO 
136  43  0  + 1  50 
136  42  20      +1  50 


Sun  0  Cir-  '     1 36  41     0      +1  50 
cumm. 


li.    m.     s. 
3     6  12  0 

6  50-0 

7  19  0 

8  3-0 
8  50-5 

3  10  19  -5 

10  53  -5 

11  52  -0 

12  28  0 
12  58  -0 


6  39    5-0 

6  44  24-0 

3  49  42  0 

50  26  0 

51  140 

3  55  58-0 

56  44-0 

57  31  -3 

6  34  14  -5 
6  44  34-5 
6  51  29-0 
6  53  38-5 
6  54  12  0 
6  54  44  -5 


h.  m. 


+  3  13  20 -0 


+  3  15  26  0 


I  h.  ni.     s. 

|>C,,;,=  +5  15  26 


I  h.  m.     .<. 

C,„,=  +5  15  29-4 


4)  =  0°  20'  55"  N. 
(|)  =  0'  20'  OL"N. 

<^  =  0^  19'  43"  N. 


h.  m.     s. 
C„n=  +5  15  33-0 


h.  m.     s. 
Q,„„  =  +  5  la  32-3 


(|)  =  0'  21'  12"  X. 
<|)  =  0°  20'  58"  X. 
c^^O'"  21'  13"  X. 
(^  =  0°  20'  43"  X. 
(^  =  0°  20'  46"  X. 
<^  =  0"  20'  32"  X. 


331 


Appendix  B. 


Civil  Date, 
1906. 


"d         Obsorvcr. 


Place. 


Latitude 

N. 


Longitude 

K.a. 


Barom. 
mm. 


Si 

®  d 

c^ 

-*) 

".2 

o 

-? 

•:^ 

:5W 

ip.  of 
elsius) 

^-3 
.11 

i  S 
-—  c 

sR 

^®<i 

H 

H 

12tli  Julv 


55 


56 


57 


58 


Com.  Cagni 


H.R.H. 


Bujongolo 


0  20  23 


h.  m.  s. 


2     0     6 


60 


Com.  Cagni 


14th  July         61 


16th  July 


62 


Nakitawa 


Ibanda 


0  20  20 


0  19  59 


17th  July     I  63 


64 


489-2 


489-0 


9-0 


7-0 


562-85    17-0 


650-0 


22-0 


C52  -0     22  -0 


9-0 


7-0 


OA  A 


OA  A 


OA  A 


OA  A 


OA 


15  0 


22-0 


2t-0 


OA 


OA 


OA  A 


OA  V 


332 


I. — Astronomic  Observations. 


Conditions 

under  which 

the  Aster 

was 
observed. 


Instrumental 
Heiglit. 


Instrument ' 

of 
Correction,  i 


Hour  of  the 
Clu'onometer. 


Absolute 
Correction  of 

the 
Chronometer. 


:o 


Results. 


BAG    81— 

o 

/ 

" 

Emersion 
from     the 
lunar  disk 

1 

Sun  0  to  E 

52 
53 
53 

40 

0 

20 

0    i 

0 

0 

Sun  0  to  E 

53 
54 
54 

40 

0 

20 

0 
0 
0 

Sun  0.  to  E. 

55 
5H 
56 

40 
0 

20 

0 
0 
0 

Sun  0  to  E. 

57     0 
57  20 
57  40 

0 
0 
0 

Sun  0  to  E. 

56 
55 

56 
12 

0 
0 

Sun  0  to  W. 


Sun  0  t  J  W. 


Sun  O  to  E. 


Sun  O  to  E. 


55  28  0 

55  40  0 

55  55  0 

56  15  0 

65  4  40 
64  8  0 
63     5     0 

27  23  0 
27  5  0 
26  41  0 
26  17  40 
25  52  40 

44  51     0 

45  9  0 
45  27  40 
45  46  40 

45  59  20 

46  23  20 
46  42     0 

46  58     0 

47  8  40 
47  30     0 


+  3  50 


+  3  50 


+  4  15 


+  4  15 


+  2  45 


+  1  2c 


+  1   50 


+  1  50 


+  1  40 


h.  ni.      s. 
10  14     4  0 


2 

44 

40 

0 

45 

23 

0 

46 

9 

0 

2 

46 

53 

5 

47 

37 

0 

48 

32 

0 

2 

51 

20 

5 

52 

4 

5 

52 

49 

0 

2 

54 

18  0 

55 

1 

■0 

55 

44 

o 

2 

49 

42 

•0 

50 

16  0 

50 

52 

•0 

51 

20 

•0 

51 

53 

"5 

52 

36 

•0 

10 

30 

2 

•0 

32 

7 

•0 

34 

26 

•0 

11 

52 

31 

■0 

53 

9 

■0 

54 

2 

•0 

54 

54 

•0 

55 

46 

■5 

2 

26 

58 

•0 

27 

37-0 

28 

18 

•5 

29 

0 

■5 

29 

28 

■5 

2 

30 

19-0 

30 

59 

■0 

31 

34 

•5 

31 

59 

■5 

32 

43 

■5 

h.  m.    8.  h.  m.      s. 

+  5  15  32-2     I     A  =  2  00  6-3E.a. 
on  the  mean 
local  time 


h.  m.     s. 
C,,„  =  5  15  34-9 


+  3  15  26-4 


+  3  15  23  -3       1 


h.  m.     8. 
C„„  =  5  15  33-7 


C„„=  +5  15  32-4 


h.  m.     s. 
C/„,  =  +  5  Jo  32-9 


h.   in.      s. 
C<;„=  +5  15  34-4 


b.  m.     s. 
A  =  2     0  19-6  E.a. 


I         h.  m.     s. 

^\  =  2     0  43-9|E.a. 


1  I    +3  15  22-4      ^ 


I         h.  m.     s. 

y\  =  2     0  41-5  E.G. 


1       +  3   1 5  22  -4      ^ 


h.  ni.     s. 
i>A.  =  2     0  42-5  E.G. 


333 


Appendix  B. 


Civil  Dale,      ^ 
1906.  .5 


Observer. 


Place. 


Latitude 

N. 


Longitude 
E.G. 


Barom. 
lum. 


a2. 

o  _^ 
P  £ 


O    2 

?^ 

a.  N— .' 
Eh 


53    O 


17th  July 
18th  Julv 
19tli  Julv 


20th  Julv 


21st  Julv 


22nd  Julv 


23rd  July 


65 
66 
67 
68 
69 
70 
71 

72 

73 

74 

75 
76 

77 

78 

79 


Com.  Cagni 


HR.H. 


I band a 


21  til  Jul  J         80 


Buliinuka 


Fort 

Portal 


0  19  59 


0  26  33 


0  39  28 


0  39  28 


h.   m.   s. 
2     0  43 


2     14 


651  -6 

652  0 
650  -95 
649  -45 

645-0 
644 -05 


2     1  32     638-6 


641-0 
636-0 


o 

o 

20-0 

29-0 

OA 

23-0 

:7-0 

OA 

25  0 

27-0 

OA 

24-0 

23-0 

OA  A 
OA  V 

24  0 

24  0 

OA 

24-0 

24-0 

OA  A 

OA  V 

21-0 

21-0 

>> 

OA  A 
OA  A 

19  0 

20-0 

OA 

14  0 

12-8 

OA  A 

OA  V 

641  7       17-5 


17  0    OA  A 


OA  V 


640  1 


18-0 


16-5 


OA  A 


334 


1. — Astronomic   Observations. 


Conditions 

•andcr  wliich 

tlie  As^ter 

was 
observed. 


Instrn  mental 
Hei"lit. 


'Instrument 

of 
iCorrection. 


Sun  O  PS 
Suu  0  PS 
Sun  0  PS 
Sun  M  to  W 
Sun  O  to  \V 
Sun  0  rS 
Sun  0  to  W 

Sim  0  to  W 

Sun  O  to  W 

Sun  0  to  W 

Sun  0  PS 
Sun  O  to    E 

SunOtj    E 

Sun  0.  to    E 

Sun  Ota    E 

Sun  ()  to  E 


137  27     0 

137  47  30 

138  7  40 
55  40     0 

52  20     0 

139  46     0 

51  22  40 

51  7  40 
50  50  20 

50  35  40 
50  24  0 
50     3     0 

54  11  40 

53  43  0 
53  52  40 
53     7  20 

52  46  40 
47  39  40 

140  57  20 

49  36  40 

49  53  20 

50  4  20 

50  26  0 
50  38  40 
50  51  20 

49  20     0 

49  40     0 

50  0     0 


r.0  20 

50  40 

51  0 

55  40 

56  0 

56  20 


+  2  55 
+  1  30 
+  1  37-5 
+  1  50 
+  1  50 
+  1  30 
+  2  10 

+  2  10 

+  1  20 

+  1  20 

+  2  20 
+  1  20 

+  1  20 

+  1  30 

+  1  30 

+  1  50 


Ilonr  of  tlie 
Clironometer. 


10  49  20  -8 
10  56  43-0 


10  58  52 -0 

10  59  25  0 

11  0     1-5 


11 


0  34  0 

0  59-5 

1  44-5 


10  52  54-5 

53  55  0 

54  32  0 

55  13  0 

10  55  57  -5 

11  7  40 


2  35  44 
36  20 
36  44 

2  37  32 
3S  0 
38  26 

2  35     5 

35  44 

36  26 

2  37  11 

37  58 

38  36 

2  48  35 
49  19 
£,0     0 


Absolute 
Correction  of 

the 
Chronometer. 


h.  ni.     s. 


1  .    +3  15  18-8 
1       +  3  15  18  -8 


1       +3  15  17-3 


1       +3  15  17-3 


Eesults. 


<p=(j"20'  37"  N. 
<p=0°20'    4"  In . 

<p=(f  19'47"X. 

h.  m.  s. 
A  =  2    0  42 -7  E.G. 

h.  m.  s. 
A  =  2    0  43 -5  E.G. 

f  =  0-  26'  33"  N. 

h.  ni.  s. 
■A  =  2     ]     4  1  E.G. 


h.    m.     s. 
A  =  2     1    4 -6  E.G. 


li.    m.     s. 
•  K-j  =  +  3  15  16  '1 


,  li.    m.      s. 

Ui  =  +3  15  15-9 

^  =0"  39'  59"  N. 

h.    m.     s. 
K]  =  +  3  15  17  '5 


1  ll.     111.       s. 

>•  Ki  =  +  3   15  16  '5 


]  ll.    m.     s. 

>./(:,  =  +3  15  18-8 
J 

h.    in.     s. 
/c,  =  +  3  15  20  1 


ll.  m.    s. 
Ki=3  15  22-6 


335 


Appendix  B. 


Civil  Date, 

lt»06. 


'^         Observer. 


Place. 


Latitude 


Longitude 
E.G. 


Barom. 


^  S 


5e  S      =o 


2itli  July 

81 

271  h  Jul  J 

82 

» 

83 

28th  July 

84 

?» 

85 

„ 

86 

31st  July 

87 

>> 

88 

1st  August 

89 

" 

90 

2nd  August 

91 

•' 

92 

•' 

93 

•• 

9t 

1 

H.R.n. 


Fort 

Portal 


Butiti 


Kaibo 


°     '     "        h.    ni.    s. 
0  39  28        2     1  32 


640-1 


18  0      16  -5     OA  V 


0  39  28 


0  39  30 


635  -0     17  0  I  16  0     OA  A 


„       OA  V 


636-0 


635  -0 
636-0 


645-7 


2     3     8       652  -0 


16  -0  :  14  -0     OA  A 


OA  V 


24  0     23  0  OA- 

15  -6      15  -6  OA  A 

„  OAv 

19  -0      18  -0  OA  A 


OAv 


24  0     24  0     OA- 


Tlie  Cliroiiometer 


336 


I. — Astronomic  Observations. 


Conditions 

under  which 

the  Aster 

was 
observed. 

Instrumental 
Height. 

Instrument 

of 
Correction. 

Hour  of  the 
Chronometer. 

o  s 
S 
u   s 
a<  o 
^  u 

is 

Absolute 
Correction  of 

the 
Chronometer. 

Results. 

o         /        // 

/     // 

h.     m.     8. 

h.  m.      s. 

Sun  0  to  E 

56  40     0 

57  (»     0 
57  20     0 

+  1  50 

2  50  46  -5 

51  27-5 

52  12-0 

1 

]             h.  m.   s. 
[•«:,=  +3  15  22-6 

Sun  0  to  W 

62     0     0 
61  40     0 
61  20     0 

+  0  50 

10  19  26  0 
20     9-0 
29  58-5 

1 

1             h.  m.    8. 
U,  -  +  3  32  57  -6* 

Sun  0  to  W 

60  40     0 
60  20     0 
GO     0     0 

+  0  50 

10  22     9  -5 
23     2  0 
23  46-5 

1 

1              h.  m.    s. 
U,=  +3  32  51  0 

Sun  0.  to  E 

51     0     0 
51  20     0 
51  40     0 

+  0  30 

2  29  17  -5 

20  59  -0 

21  42  0 

1 

1             h.  m.   s. 
U,  =  +  3  32  59  o 

Sun  0  to  E 

52     0     0 

+  0  30 

2  22  25  0 

1 

1             h.  m.   8. 

52  20     0 

23     7  -5 

U^=+3  32  59-9 

52  40     0 

23  51  -5 

Sun  0      PS 

142  25  40 

+  2  20 

.... 

<^  =  0'  39'  40"  N. 

Sun  0  to  W 

59  49     0 

+  1  30 

10  25     2  -5 

1 

1             h.  m.    s. 

59  20     0 

25  43  -5 

Uj  =  +  3  33  4-8 

59     0     0 

26  26  0 

Sun  0  to  W 

58  40     0 

58  20     0 
58     0     0 

+  1  30 

10  27  11 -5 

27  52-0 

28  35  0 

1 

1             h.  m.    s. 
Ui  =  +  3  33  4  -7 

Sun  0  to  W 

52  20     0 

52     0     0 
51  20     0 
51     0     0 

+  0  40 

10  39  46  -5 

40  32  0 

41  55  -5 

42  38  -0 

1 

+  3  33     6-5 

h.  m.    s. 
►  A  =  2  2  34-3  E.G. 

Sim  0  to  W 

50  40     0 
50  20     0 
50     0     0 

+  0  40 

10  43  21  0 
44     2-5 
44  45  -5 

1 

+  3  33     6-5 

]        h.  m.  s. 

Ia  =  2  2  34-8  E.a. 

Sun    0    Cir- 

143     1  40 

+  1  30 

6  51     4-0 

1 

+  3  33     7-8 

,^=0'  30'  36"    N. 

cumna. 

Sun    0    Cir- 

142  51  20 

„ 

6  52  10  -0 

I 

+  3  33     7-8 

.^  =  0°  30'     9"N. 

cumm. 

Sun    0   Cir- 

142  31  40 

6  54     9-5 

1 

+  3  33     7-8 

q>  =  0^  29'  26"  X. 

cumm. 

Sun    0    Cir- 

142  21     0 

>> 

6  55  25  "0 

1 

+  3  33     7-8 

^  =  O""  30'  14"  N. 

cumm. 

reinainert  unregulated. 


337 


Appendix  B. 


Civil  Date, 
11)00. 

o 

1 
g 

Observer. 

Place. 

Latitude 

Lougituile 
E.G. 

Barom. 
mm. 

Thermom.       an- 
nexed (Celsius). 

Temp,  of  the    Air 
(Celsius). 

Position  Lid  of  the 
Artificial  Horizon. 

o         ,         „ 

h.  m.  s. 

0 

0 

2nd  August 

95 

H.R.H. 

Kaibo 

0  30     4 

651-0 

23-0 

23  0 

oaa 

» 

96 

" 

>> 

" 

" 

)» 

OAv 

6th  August 

91 

97 
98 

» 

>> 

Mujongo 
» 

0  30  41 

657-0 

25-0 

25  0 
11 

OAA 
OAv 

>i 

99 

„ 

Kichiomi 

2     4  27 

653-0 

24-0 

24-0 

OA 

" 

100 

" 

" 

0  31  20 

652-0 

22  0 

22-0 

OAA 

" 

101 

" 

" 

" 

') 

)) 

11 

OAv 

7th  August 

102 

Lwamutu- 

2     5  16 

657  -0 

22-0 

23-0 

OA 

Ivuza 

8tli  August 

103 

„ 

Kasiba 

2     5  52 

658-0 

23-0 

23-0 

OA 

104 

" 

" 

0  40  34 

657  -0 

24-0 

24-0 

OAA 

105 

" 

>j 

" 

" 

)) 

>' 

OAv 

9th  August 

106 

,, 

Kijemula 

2     6     0 

661-0 

26  0 

26-0 

OA 

10th  August    107 

M 

Bimbye 

2     7  26 

662-0 

27  -0 

26  0 

OA 

lllb  August    108 

" 

0  31  56 

664  0 

26  0 

26-5 

OAA 

>> 

109 

'» 

)> 

)> 

" 

II 

» 

OAv 

The  luiglits  luiuUcil  with  an  asterisk  were  taken  with  the  Magiiaglii  ciiele  and 

33S 


I- — Astronomic  Observations. 


Conditions 

under  which 

the  Aster 

was 
observed. 


[ustrumental 
Height. 


'  [nstruiiient 

1         ^^  . 
!  Correction. 


Hour  of  the 
Clironometer. 


Sun  O  to  W.       51  20  0 

51     0  0 

I     50  40  0 

Sun  0  toW.       50  20  0 

i     50     0  0 

i     49  49  0 


Sun  0  to  W. 


20  58  20 
20  37  40 
20  21  40 


Sun  0  to  W.  :  44  0  0 
43  40  0 
43  20     0 


Sun  0       PS 
Sun  O  to  W 

Sun  0  to  W 


1 48     6  0* 

54     0  0 

53  40  0 

53  20  0 

53  00  0 

52  40  0 

52  20  0 


Sun  O      PS  !  148  30  45* 
Sun  O       PS     1^8  55  45* 


Sun  O  toW 


Sun  0  to  W 


51      0  0 

50  40  0 

50  20  0 

50     0  0 

49  40  0 

49  20  0 


+  2  10 


+  2  10 


+  2   15 


Sun  O  to  VV.       19  54  40        +215 

Sun  0.      PS  I  146  50  30*      -8     0 

Sun  0  to  W.       45     0     0         +  0  40 
44  40     0 
i     44  20     0 


+  0  40 


Sun  O       PS     147  13  30*      +1     0 


0     0 

+  1   50 

+  1  50 

0  0 
+  1  30 
+  1   20 

+  1   20 


h.  m.       8. 
10  41     9  0 

41  52-5 

42  32  -5 

10  43  16  0 

43  58-5 

44  41  '5 

11  44  33-0 

45  18-0 
45  52  -0 


11  46  48-0 


10  55  36  -0 

56  18-0 

57  1  0 


10  33  16  -0 

33  56  0 

34  40  -5 

10  35  23 -0 
36  6-5 
36  49-5 


10  37  49  -5 
38  31  0 
32  13  0 

10  39  55  0 

40  37  -0 

41  17-5 


o  a 


Absohite 
Correction  of 

the 
Clironometer. 


1+3  33     8-0 


+  3  33     8  -0 


+  3  33  12-6 


+  3  33  12-6 


10  53  31  -0  1 

54  12-0 
54  52  -5 


1 


+  3  33   141 


+  3  33  14-] 


+  3  33  17   1 


+  3  33  17  1 


+  3  33  21  -6 


+  3  33  21  (i 


result  Iroiii  the  mean  ot  tlie  readings  of  tlie  two  reflectors  of  the  instrument. 

339 


Results. 


h    m.     8. 
A.  =  2     3     7 -8  E.G. 


A  =  2     3     7-9p].G. 


h.  m.     s. 
A  =  2    3  55-4  E.G. 


Ii.  m.     s. 
A  =2     3  54(;  E.G. 

<^  =  0==  31'  53"  N. 

h.  m.     s. 
A  =  2     4  26  -0  E.G. 


li.  m.     8. 
A  =  2     4  25-9  E.G. 


<p  =  0°  30'  27"  N. 

4)  =  ()°40'34"N. 

h.  m.    s. 

53  -2  E.G, 


A--2     5 


h.  m. 
A  =  2     5 


<p  =  0°35' 
<p  =  (j°  31' 


50  -8  E.G. 

55"  N. 
57"  N. 


h.  m.    8. 
A  =2     7  26 -4  E.G. 


h.  m.    8. 
A  =  2    7  26-4  E.G. 


/   -2 


Appendix  B. 


Civil  Date, 
1906. 

« 

6 

1 
« 

B 

3 
!2i 

01)  server. 

Place. 

Latitude 

N. 

Longitude 
E.G. 

Barom. 
mm. 

Thermom.  annexe. 1 
(Celsius). 

Temp,  of  the  Air 
(Celsius). 

o    C 

^  o 
—   »a 

o  o 
•2?2 

O          /         fl 

]i.    m.  s. 

o 

o 

16th  August 

110 

111 

H.R.H. 

Entebbe 
>> 

0     3  11 

2     9  47 

667  -5 

22  0 
» 

24  0 

oaa 

OAv 

17th  August 

112 

>j 

» 

•> 

" 

666-0 

17  0 

24  0 

OAA 

» 

113 

»> 

>» 

i> 

» 

» 

» 

" 

OAv 

340 


I. — Astronomic  Observations. 


Conditions 

under  which 

the  Aster 

was 
oLserTed. 


Instrumental 
Height. 


Instrument 

of 
Correction. 


Hour  of  tlie 
Clironometer. 


IS 


Absolute 
Correction  of 

tlie 
Clironometer. 


o    / 

II 

,  „ 

h.  m.  s. 

Sun  0  to  W 

54  0 

0 

+  2  0 

10  28  25  -5 

1 

53  40 

0 

29  6-5 

53  20 

0 

29  48  0 

Sun  0  to  W 

53  0 

0 

+  2  0 

10  30  30  -0 

1 

52  40 

0 

31  13  0 

52  20 

0 

31  55-5 

Sun  0  to  E 

68  20 

0 

+  1  50 

2  43  13  0 

1 

68  40 

0 

43  55  0 

69  0 

0 

44  36  ■■>. 

Sun  0  to  E 

69  20 

0 

+  1  50 

2  45  20  -5 

1 

69  40 

0 

46  0-5 

70  0 

0 

46  43  -5 

Results. 


h.  m.    s. 
«:,  =  +  3  33  29  -9 


h.  m.    8. 
/c,  =  +  3  33  28  -5 


1  h.  m.    s. 

I  /ci  =  +  3  33  25  -2 

"j  h.  m.    s. 

Ui=  +3  33  23-8 


341 


EEGISTER 
OF  THE  CHRONOMETERS. 


Appendix  11 


REGISTER  OF 


Civil  Bate, 
1906. 


Place. 


X   5 

IS 


Chronom.  N.  1,  Lange  56509. 


K,. 


18th  April  ...     On  board 
19th      „      ...     Port  Said 


20th  „ 

20tli  „ 

20th  .. 

21st  „ 

22nd  ., 

28rd  „ 

24th  „ 

25th  „ 

26th  „ 

26th  „ 

27th  ., 

28th  „ 

28th  „ 

29th  „ 

30th  „ 

1st  May 

2nd  ., 

3rd  „ 

4th  „ 

4th  „ 


Port  Said  (comparison 
with  the  chron.  of  the 
Police  Station) 

Port  Said       

On  board 


Jibuti      (comparison     with 
the  "  Elphinstone") 

Jibuti 

Aden .... 

On  board 


Mombasa 


,,  (compyrijion  wiili 

the   chron.    of    the    Post 
Ofilce) 


28 
29 
30 

31 
29 
28 


30 
31 


h.    m. 
12  30 

9  30 

9  30 

14    0 


6  0 
10  0 
10  0 
10  0 

9  30 

9  0 

16  0 

7  30 
9  0 
9    0 

10  30 
9  0 
9  0 
9  0 
9  30 

8  0 
5  30 


h.    m.      8. 

9  15  0  0 

6     0  00 

6  21  0  0 


h.  ni. 


10  46     8-5    +3  17  15  5   ^ 


2  57  0-0 

6  33  0  0 

6  55  00                               i--l-29 

6  36  0  0 

6  10  0  0 

5  55  0  0 

12  40  30-0    +3  17     8  0 


3  59  30 
5  43  0 
5  54  0 
7  6  30 
5  26  0 
5  53  30 

5  44     0 

6  19     0 

4  47  0 
2  12     0 


8. 

.-1-34 


+  3  16  57  0 


344 


I. — Astronomic  Observations. 


THE  CHKOXO METERS. 


Chronom.  X.  2,  Lange  56520.         Chronoin.  N.  3,  Longines  560229. 


Co. 


Ko. 


C.. 


h.    m.    s. 
9     7  39  oi 

I 

5  52  38 -sl 

6  13  37  0 


li.  m.     s 
+  3  24  38  -5 


2  49  36 
6  25  34 
6  47  30 
6  28  25 
6  2  19 
5  47  11 

3  51  34 
5  34  57 

5  45  49 

6  58  19 
5  17  41 
5  45  4 

5  35  26 

6  10  18 

4  38  6 
2  3  6 


+  3  25  3  '5 


+  3  25  52  0 


li.  m.     s. 
9  32  23  5 

6  17  19  0 

6  38  15  0 


h.  m.  p. 
+  3  0  0-5 


l>+4-31   7 


5-90 


3  14  14 

6  50  10 

7  12  0 
6  52  53 
6  26  46 
6  11  38 

4  16  0 

5  59  20 

6  10  4 

7  22  33 

5  41  £4 

6  9  15 

5  59  38 

6  34  30 
5  2  21 
2  27  16 


-i  3     0  38  0- 


;.  +  7  -91 


Comparisons 

C.-CV 

C1-C3. 

C2-C3. 

m.  8. 

m.    8. 

m.  s. 

+  7  20-5 

-17  23-5 

-24  44  0 

7  21  -5 

17  19  0 

24  40-5 

7  23  0 

17  15  0 

24  38  0 

"1 

s. 
I-+6-46 

7  23 
7  26 
7  30 
7  34 

7  41 
7  49 


■17  14-5 
17  10-5 
17  0-7 
16  53  -5 
16  46  -5 
16  38  0 


-24  38-3 
24  36  -5 
24  30  -7 
24  28  -3 
24  27  -5 
24  27  0 


7  55  -5 

-16 

30  0 

-24  25  -5 

8  2-5 

16 

20-5 

24  23  0 

8  10-5 

16 

4  0 

24  14-5 

8  11-0 

16 

3-7 

24  14-7 

8  18-5 

15 

54  0 

24  12  -5 

8  25-5 

15 

45  0 

24  10 -5 

8  34  0 

15 

38  0 

24  12  0 

8  42-0 

15 

30  0 

24  12  0 

8  53-5 

15 

21-5 

24  15  0 

8  54  0 

15 

16-8 

24  10-8 

+  3  1  43  •() 


345 


Appendix  B. 


Civil  Date,    ' 

Place. 

1 

3 
1 

s 

9 
.So 

1 
Chronom.  N.  1,  Lange  56509. 

1906. 

0,. 

Ki. 

ki- 

4th  May 

Mombasa       

h.  m. 
8  30 

h.  m.      s. 
5  20  30  0 

^ 

5th     , 

Railway 

10     0 

6  49     0-0 

6th     .,          . 

„ 

8  30 

4  59     0-0 

7th     , 

Entebbe        

9  30 

6  22     0  0 

8th     „       ... 



9  30 

6  19     0-0 

s. 
1.-2 -762 

9th     ,.       .. 



10  30 

7  14     0-0 

1 

10th     „ 



10     0 

6  45     0-0 

11th     „       ... 

,, 

10  30 

7  10     0-0 

12th     „       .... 
12tli     „       . 

Entebbe  (Telegrapliic  com- 
parison   with     Mombasa 
Post  Office) 

8  32 

9  30 

5  15     0  0 

h.  m.     s. 
+  3  16  34-9 

J 

1 

12th     .,       .... 

Entebbe         

10  30 

7     9     0-0 

12tli     

;,                               

10  30 

7  11     0:0 

13th     

-,                               

13  30 

10  18     0-0 

1-ith     ,. 

,, 

11     0 

7  40     0-0 

16th     ,,        ... 

En  route  (Kutcnde) 

10     0 

6  44     0  0 

17th     , 

,,         (Bweya) 

29-2 

9  30 

6  16     0-0 

IStli     „ 

.,         (Mitiana) 

28-7 

10     0 

6  31     0-0 

19th     ,. 

(Biijongolo) 

30-7 

9  30 

6  10  30-0 

20tli     „ 

„         (Bimbye).... 

27-7 

9  30 

6  26     0  0 

21st      ,.       . 

,,         (Kijeniula) 

25-7 

13  30 

10  15  30-0 

22nfl     .. 

(  Madrid  u) 

28-2 

10     0 

6  55     0  0 

23  id     ,. 

,,         (Muduma) 

23-2 

10  30 

7     1  30-0 

1 

241  h     .. 

,,         (Lwamutukuz  ■)  ... 

28-7 

10  30 

7     2  30  -0 

}.  -2  123 

2oth     ,, 

(Kichiomi) 

24-2 

10     0 

6  47     0  0 

26th      „ 

,,         (Muyongo) 

26-7 

10     0 

6  55     0  0 

27th     „ 

„         (Kuibo)     .... 

23  -3 

10     0 

6  50     0-0 

346 


I . — Astronomic  Observations. 


Chronoui.  N.  2,  Lange  56520.  Chronoin.  X.  3,  Longines  560229. 


k... 


K.. 


Ci-Co. 


Comparisons. 

C.-Cj.  I  c,-c. 


h.  m.  s. 

5  11  35  0 

6  40  0  0 
4  49  58  -5 
6  12  53  0 

6  9  49  •() 

7  4  43  -5 

6  35  37  -5 

7  0  31  -5 


h.  in.  s. 
5  35  43 

7  4  6 

5  13  58 

6  36  53 


]i.  ni.  s. 
+  3  26  9  0 


.   .^  ,  -,.  6  33  48 
}>  +2  -120 

7  28  43 

6  59  38 

7  24  31 
5  29  25 

—  6  19  4 


+  8  55  0  -15  13  0 
9  0  0   15  6-5 


7  1  25  -5 
10  8  20-5 
7  30  16  -0 
6  33  56  0 
6  5  47  '5 
6  20  38  -5 

5  59  59  -5 

6  15  18  -5 
10  4  41  0 

6  44  0  0 
6  50  21  0 
6  51  10  0 
6  35  31  -5 
6  43  19  0, 
6  38  9  0 


I 

!  7  23  23 

7  25  24 

10  32  18 

7  54  13 

6  57  55 

6  29  39 

6  44  30 

6  24  1 

6  39  26 
10  28  50 

7  8  10 

7  14  23 
s. 
}>  +  6  -264  7  15  25 

6  59  51 

7  7  46 
7  2  39 


ll.  111.   5. 

5+3  2  10 -5 


}-  +  3  -437 


9  1-5 
9  7  0 
9  11  0 
9  16-5 
9  22-5 


14  58  -8 
14  53  0 
14  48  0 
14  43  0 
14  38  0 


+  9  28-5  -14  31  -5 
14  25  -3 


■24  8  0 
24  6-5 
£4  0-3 
24  0  0 
23  59  0 

23  59  -5 

24  0  -5 
•24  (»0 


+  9  34-5 
9  39-5 

j  9  44  0 
10  4  -0 
10  12-5 
10  21  -5 
10  30-5 
10  41  -5 

10  49  0 

11  0  0 
11  9  0 

j.  +  5  087  11  20  0 
11  28-5 
11  41  0 
II  51  •(• 


-14  23-5 

14  24  0 

-23 

58  '5 

14  18  0 

23 

57  5 

14  13  -5 

23 

57  5 

13  55  -5 

23 

59-5 

13  39  -5 

23 

52-0 

13  30  -5 

23 

52(i 

13  31  0 

24 

1-5 

13  26  -5 

24 

8u 

13  20-0 

24 

9  0 

13  10  0 

24 

1(>  •(> 

12  53  -5 

24 

2-5 

12  55  0 

24 

15  K 

12  51  0 

24 

19  •.-. 

12  46  0 

21 

27  ll 

12  39  0 

24 

30  0 

347 


Appendix  B. 


Civil  Date, 
1906. 


Place. 


^ 

■^ 

3 

S3 

? 

Mc 

9i 

a, 
a 

g.s 

v 

p< 

H 

•< 

Chronom.  X.  1,  Lange  56509. 


c.. 


K,. 


k,. 


28th  May    . 

En  route  (Butiti)    ... 

o 

.    22-2 

h.  m. 
11     0 

h.  m. 

7  39 

s. 
0  0 

29th     „       ... 

( Fort  Portal) 

19-7 

14  30 

11  13 

0-0 

30th     „       ., 

>» 

.  .     21  -2 

12  30 

9  24 

0  0 

3l8t        „ 

„ 

...    20-7 

10  30 

7     8 

0  0 

1st  June   .... 

,,         (Duwoiiii) 

..  i  23  -7 

10     0 

6  58 

0  0 

2nd    „        . 

,,         (Kasongo) 

....    26-7 

11  30 

8  27 

0  0 

3rd     „       . 

,,          (Ibanda)  .... 

.       25-2 

10  30 

7  11 

0-0 

4th     „       .... 

,,         (Biluinga) 

.       20-7 

12  30 

9  26 

0  0 

5th     „ 

„         (Jsakitawa) 

....|  J3-7 

10     0 

6  47 

0  0 

11th     „       .... 

Bujoiigolo 

5-9 

12     0 

8  31 

0  0 

11th     „       . 



13  30 

10  29 

2  0 

12th     „       ... 



.       4-9 

10     0 

6  56 

0  0 

14th     „       .... 

,, 

..        4-9 

14     0 

10  43 

0  0 

16th     „       .... 

,, 

5-9 

7  30 

4  10 

0  0 

18tli  .„       .. 



...       4-9 

8  30 

5  24 

0-0 

24th     „       ... 

„ 

...       4-9 

8  30 

5  20 

30  0 

25th     „       .... 

....      5  -2 

9  30 

6  21 

0  0 

26th     „       .... 



.         4-7 

10  30 

7     6 

0  0 

27th     „       ... 

»•             — 

.         6  ■-) 

10     0 

6  55 

20-0 

28th     „       ... 



....      4-7 

10     0 

6  51 

0  0 

29»h     „       .. 



....1     4-7 

6  30 

3     9 

34  0 

29th     „       ... 

» 

1 

10  30 

7     8 

00 

30th     „ 



.         4-7 

11     0 

7  48 

0  0 

1st  July     ... 

,.              

4;{ 

10     0 

6  35 

0  0 

2nd     „ 

,, 

GO 

10     0 

6  50 

0-0 

5th     

>i 

4-5 

10  3(1 

7  26 

0-.. 

li.  in.      s.  I 

+  3  15  30-8  ^ 


j» -0-509 


+  3  15  21  -8 


\-  +0-471 


•  Taking  the  con-.j.ariscns  (it  June  lltli  to  lie  wrong,  we  are 

348 


I. — Astronomic  Observations. 


Chronoiii.  X.  2,  Lange  56520.         Chronoiii.  X.  3,  Longines  560229. 


C. 


k,. 


C3. 


Comparisons 
Ci  — Ca-        Ci  — C3. 


C0-C3. 


h.  m. 
7  27 

8. 

0-5 

11  0 

48  0 

9  11 

34  0 

6  55 

28-0 

6  45 

17  0 

8  14 

8() 

6  57 

58  0 

9  12 

47-5 

6  33 

37  0 

8  17 

9  0 

h.  m.  8 
+  3  29  23 

6  42 

7-0 

10  2d 

5-5 

3  56 

8-0 

5  10  17-0 

5  6 

54  "5 

6  7  30  0 

6  52 

32-5 

6  42 

7  0 

6  37 

40  0 

+  3  28  39 

6  54  43  0 

7  3t  44-5 

6  21  47  -5 

6  36  53  -5 

7  13 

14  0 

h.  m.  s. 

7  51  3:i  0 

11  25  16  0 

9  36  2  0 

7  19  55  -5 

7  9  40-5 

8  38  30  0 

7  22  22  0 

9  37  13  0 

6  58  0  -0 

8  41  11  0 

J 

1 

li 
+  3 

7  6  42  -0 

10  53  24  0 

4  20  20-5 

5  34  19  -5 

s. 

J>-2-611 

5  30  4-U 

6  30  34  -5 

7  15  22  0 
7  4  54  -5 
7  0  17  -5 

J 

7  17  3-5 
7  56  45  -5 

+  3 

6  43  45  -5 

G  58  2-0 

7  34  37  0 

m.  s. 

ni. 

8. 

ni.  s. 

11  59  -5 

12 

33  0 

24  32-5 

12  12  0 

12 

16  0 

24  28  0 

12  26  0 

12 

2  0 

24  28  0 

12  32  0 

11 

55  5 

24  27  -5 

12  43  -0 

11 

40-5 

24  23  -5 

12  52  -0 

11 

30  0 

24  22  0 

13  2  0 

11 

22  0 

24  24  0 

13  12-5 

11 

13  0 

24  25  -5 

13  23  0 

11 

0  0 

24  23  0 

p  * 

■j 

P 

m.     s. 
4  48-3 


6  15-9 


"1 

+  13 

£3-0 

-10 

42  0 

-24  35  0 

13 

54  '5 

10 

24-0 

24  18  -5 

13 

52  0 

lit 

20-5 

24  12  -5 

13 

43  0 

10 

19-5 

24  2  -5 

J. +5 -197   13 

35-5 

9 

34  0 

23  9-5 

13 

30-0 

9 

34-5 

23  4  -5 

13 

27  "5 

9 

22  0 

22  49-5 

13 

23-0 

9 

24-5 

22  47  -5 

13 

20-0 

9 

17-5 

22  37  -5 

J 

17-0 

9 

3-5 

13 

22  20  -5 

13 

15  "5 

8 

45-5 

22  1  -5 

13 

12  -5 

8 

45-5 

21  58-0 

13 

6-5 

8 

2  0 

21  8-5 

12 

46 -0 

8 

37  0 

21  230 

referred  to  those  of  the  12tli  for  the  values  K.„  K3  and  k.j,  ks. 

349 


Appendix  B. 


Civil  Date, 
1906. 


Phue. 


X  = 


Clironom.  N.  1,  Lange  56509. 


c,. 


Ki. 


K 


lltli  -Tulv    ..      Bujongolo     

13tli     ,.  ...             „           (en  route) 

2Ut      ,,  Fort  Portal      

24th   „  ,.      


°   I  li.  111.   li.  111.   s.    h.  m.   s. 
...l  5-9   8  0   4  46  2S-5  I 

...  I  5-9  I  6  0   2  51  6-0  +:J  15  28  4 


14  0   10  57  49  0  +3  15  15  8 
14  -2   6  30   2  13  0  0 


-1-521 


27th  July — Through  a  great  delay  in  regulating 


27tli  J 

uly     .. 

Fort  Portal  .... 

28tli 

„ 

.. 

30th 

,, 

„ 

31st 

„ 

„ 

2nd 

August 

Kaibo 

6th 

Kichiomi 

16th 

Bimbye 

16th 

Entebbe 

22nd 

26th 

Mombasa  (com 

the    chronometer  of    the 
Post  Office) 


28tli 


h.    in.        h.  m.    s. 
14     0      10  32     0  0 


li.  ui.    s. 


9     0  '  5  40     0  0 

10     0  6  29     0  -0 

14     0  10  20  48  0    +3  33     5  "0 

1 

13  30  9  46  0  0  I 
1.-)  30  11  45  0  0  1 
10     0  6  40     0  0  1 

14  0  +3  33  29-2 
10     0  6  37     0-0  ! 

7  30  4     4     0  0    +3  33  19-0 

14  30  10  45     0  -0 


y+i  -510 


- 1  045 


350 


I. — Astronomic  Observations. 


Chronom.  X.  2,  Lange  56520.        Chronom.  N.  3.  Longines  560229. 

Co. 


Conipurisons 


K. 


k.,. 


C.. 


h.  m.     s.    ! 
7  34     0  0 


1  59  50  0 


h.  in.    s. 


2  19  40  -5 


c,-a.       C,-CV        C.-C,. 

I 


ni.     s.  111. 

12  28-0 


13  10  0       6  40-5  !     19  50-5 


the  chronometers  they  raried,  and  No.  2  stopped. 


h.  ni.  s. 
8  29  43  0 

h.  m.       s. 
lu  17  47  -5 

h.m.  s.    h.  111.  s.   li.  m.  s. 
+  2  2  17 -U  +0  14  12-5-1  48  45 

3  37  43  -5 

5  25  55  0 

2  2  16-5    14  50   1  48  11-5 

4  26  39  -5 

6  15  14-0 

2  2  20  -5    13  46  0 

1  48  34-5 

7  43  17  -5 

9  32  14  0 

2  2  42  -5 

13  46  0 

1  48  56-5 

9  41  50  0 

2  3  10-0 

4  36  13  0 

2  3  47  0 

4  31  43  0 

+  2  5  17-0 

8  39  5-5 

2  5  550 

3.51 


II.— GEODETIC    OBSERVATIONS. 

By  p.  CAMPIGLI. 

Taking  as  starting  point  a  site  near  Bujongolo,  the  height  of  which  above 
sea-level  was  known  from  l)arometric  readings,  at  that  point,  which  for 
shortness  will  henceforth  be  simply  called  Bujongolo,  was  constructed  an 
astronomic  station,  the  latitude  of  which  was  determined  by  meridian  and 
circurameridian  zenithal  observations  of  the  sun,  and  the  longitude  by  means 
of  lunar  occultations  of  stars. 

Then  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Bujongolo  a  base  was  chosen  and  measui'ed 
between  the  points  A  and  D  {^ee  the  annexed  diagram  of  the  triangulation.) 


The   distance   was    obtained    eithei'   directly  by  fixing   stations   with   the 
tachometer  at  the  two  extremes  A   and  IJ,  or  by  measuring  with  the  meti'ic 


353 


2  A 


Appendix  B. 


tape  measure  and  stadioineter,  the   distances   intercepted  between  the  points 
B  c,  c  c\  c'  (I,  d  A,  from  which  were  had  the  following  results  : — 


Distances 

Vertical 
Angle. 

Between 

the 

points. 

Measured 

with  the 
tape  line. 

Measured 
with  the 
Studio- 
meter. 

Segments. 

£    c 
c    B 

r.G  -135 

60-00 
61  -o 

15°  10' 
17     32 

55  S'J 
55-02 

1 

I    55-905 

B    A 

320-0 

18     02 

289  -33 

0      c' 
c'    d 

67  -620 
108-325 

75-0 
1180 

21  20 

22  22 

65  -07 
100  -91 

1 165 -98 

>166-375 

c      d 

190-5 

20     40 

166 -77 

. 

d    A 
A    d 

62 -700 

66-5 
66-0 

7     06 
7     12 

65-48 
64  -99 

I    65  -235 

288  -45 

A    B 

320-0 

18     18 
Totj 

il  length 

287  -515 

287  -51 

to  be  adopted,  metres 

288  -43  (947 

ft.) 

At  the  extreme  west  point  B  of  the  base,  the  height  of  which  over 
Bujongolo  was  also  measured  with  the  barometer  and  found  to  be  104  metres, 
solar  obserA-ations  enabled  the  expedition  to  determine  the  azimuth  of  one  of 
the  points  constituting  the  apexes  (jf  the  triangles  of  the  geodetic  network, 
which  thus  became  orientated. 

The  point  chosen  for  the  azimuth  was  the  Cagni  Peak,  distant  1882-9  metres 
(5,980  feet),  and  the  following  results  were  obtained  : — 

Mean  of  four  values  on  the  right 

Circle 80°  51'-29. 

Mean  of  four  values  on  the  left 

Circle 80°  51'- 09. 

Mean  A-aluc  of  the  azimuth  of  Cagni  Peak  fioni  Point  V)  ..80°  5r-19. 

With  the  mean  value  of  the  l)ase  of  288-4.3  metres  (945  feet),  and  solving 
the  two  triangles  ]'>  A  Cagni  Peak  and  />'  A  Edward  Peak,  we  obtained  from 
two  parts  the  value  of  the  side  Cagni  Peak — Edward  Peak,  which  gave 
288;?-2  metres  (9,456  feet). 

354 


1 


o 


MAP    OF  ANGLES     MEASURED 

in  the  Ruwenzori  Chain 


Scaleli.O.OOOorl.58  inches -1  mile 


TI. — Geodetic  Observations. 

To  this  side  were  connected  ;dl  the  points,  l)UJ()n^i;ol()  inchidt'd,  which 
foi-nied  the  apexes  of  the  netwoik  in  whicli  was  comprised  all  tlie  sui'veyed 
section  of  the  Kuwenzori  JIange. 

At  all  these  points  a  station  was  made  l»y  measuring  l»oth  the  vertical  and 
the  horizontal  angles  by  means  of  a  prismatic  compass  from  F.  Barker  and  Son, 
London,  No.  1926,  except  oidy  for  the  two  extreme  points. 7  and  />'  of  the  base, 
where  was  employed  the  tachometer,  and  for  the  Cagni  Peak,  at  which  the 
oliservations  were  carried  out  with  a  small  field  theodolite. 

In  the  tabulated  Summary  A  are  indicated  all  the  triangles  dealt  with,  as 
well  as  the  value  of  the  observed  angles  and  that  of  the  calculated  sides. 

The  Simimary  B  contains  the  orthogonal  co-ordinates  of  all  the  points 
referred  to  the  extreme  west  of  the  base  B. 

In  the  Summary  C  are  lirought  together  the  heights  of  some  points  which 
are  referred  to  Bujongolo,  and  were  ol)tained  l)y  means  of  geodetic  o]»ser\ations. 

Lastly,  Summary  D  is  an  epitome  of  the  heights  that  were  adopted  for  all 
the  points  indicated  on  the  maps,  as  well  as  the  method  l)y  which  said  numbers 
were  deducted. 


355  2  A  2 


Appendix  B. 

Summary   A. 
LIST   OF   THE   TRIANGLES. 


Name  of  the  Points. 


Angles 


Sides, 
metres. 


Name  of  the  Points, 


Angles. 


Sides, 
metres. 


"NVollastou 
Edwaixl    . . . 
Cagni 

Margherita 
Edward  . . . 
"Wollastoii 

Vittoi'io  Enianuele 

Edward 

WoUaston 

Margherita 
Wollastoii 
Vittorio  Emauuele 

lolaiida     ... 
Vittorio  Enianuele 
Wollaston 

Bottego  . . . 
Edward  ... 
Wollaston 

Umberto  ... 
Cagni 
Eottego    . . . 

Alexandra 
Wollaston 
Vittorio  Enianuele 

Margherita  (X.Pk.)j 
Alexandra 
Vittorio  iMnaimele  i 

Kraepelin  ...' 

Vittorio  Einaimele  ^ 
Bottego    ... 

Elena 

Edward  ... 
Vittorio  Emanuele 

Savoia 

Vittorio  Emanuele 

Marghei'ita 

Sella 
Cagni 
Edward  ... 

Grauer  Pass 
Vittorio  Enianuele 
Edward  ... 


157  37 
21  07 

23  16 

21  30 

109  30 

49  00 

24  40 
68  40 
86  40 

59  00 

57  30 
83  30 

35  00 

108  00 

37  00 

10  00 

48  00 

122  00 

79  07 
15  37-5 
85  15-5 

58  30 
40  30 
81  00 

98  00 

74  00 

8  00 

85  30 
24  30 
70  00 

90  30 
54  00 
35  30 

53  20 

28  30 
98  10 

44  16 
44  14 

91  30 

107  30 
20  00 
52  30 


2883 
1485 
1628 

1628 
4187 
3352 

1628 
3634 
3894 

3634 
2581 
4212 

3634 
6025 
3813 

1628 
6968 
7951 

7429 
2037 
7539 

3634 

2768 
4209 

2768 

2687 

389 

4521 
18,S0 
4262 

3S94 
3151 
2261 

2579 
1534 
3183 

2883 
2881 
4129 

3894 
1396 
3240 


Johnston 
Vittorio  Eman 
Edward 

Knol) ... 

B 

Wollaston 

Stuhlinann 
Margherita 
Wollaston 

F 
B 

Wollaston 

Moore 
Edward 
Cagni . . . 

Weismann 
Stairs . . . 
Edward 

Portal,  North 

lolanda 

Wollaston 

Semper 
Edwaid 
Wollaston 

N 
B 
Freshfield 

Camp  II 

Edward 

Savoia 

Moeliius 
Edward 
Vittorio  Eman 

Bujongolo 
Cagni . . . 
]vh\'ard 

I'ortal,  South 

lolanda 

Wollaston 


133  00 
41   00 

!     6  00 

73  33-8 
51  00-8 
56  25-4 

102  06-2 

58  53-8 
19  00-0 

49  53-0 

27  46-7 

102  20-3 

117  59 
31  30 
30  31 

48  58-0 
97  49-5 
33  12-5 

71  12-5 
66  56-0 
41  50-5 

104  00 
65  00 

11  00 

1104  10-1 
j  42  08-2 
^  33  41-7 

39  00 

105  00 

!  36  00 

i  87  30 

51   30 

i  41   00 


83  00 
65  30 
31  29 

70  12 
49  56 
59  51 


3894 

3493 

556 

2098 
1709 
1832 

4200 
3678 
1398 

2098 
1278 
2680 

2883 
1705 
1657 

2578 
3386 
1872 

6025 
5856 
4247 

1628 

1520 

320 

1527 

1057 
874 

1958 
3005 
1829 

3894 
3051 
2557 

2883 
2643 
1517 

6025 
4901 
5538 


356 


11. — Geodetic  Observations. 


SUMMAIIY    15. 

ORTHOGONAL  CO-ORDINATES  OF  THE   POINTS,  REFERRED  TO   /; 
(EXTREME    WEST   BASE). 


Name  of  tlie  Points. 


y 


B — Extreme  west  base 

A — Extreme  east  base 

Cagni 

Echvard 

Wollaston 

Vittorio  Eiuanucle  ... 

Margherita    ... 

lolanda 

Umberto 

Alexandra     ... 

Kraepelin 

Elena 

Savoia 

Grauer  Pass  ... 

Stuhlmann    ... 

F        

Moore 

Weismann     ... 

Stairs 

Roccati 

Bottego 

Margherita,  North  Peak 

Knol) 

Portal,  North 

Portal,  South 

Camp  II 

E        

Johnston 
Semper 

Sella 

Bujongolo 

N       

Camp  VII  ...  ^  Calculated 
Lake  Kujuku  \  to  apex  of 
Freshfield  Pass      I      Pyramid 


0 

+ 

284 -S 

+ 

1028-3 

- 

1854-5 

- 

345  -  4 

- 

1903-4 

- 

4086  -  7 

+ 

867-7 

- 

1168-0 

- 

4187-8 

- 

933-9 

- 

3700-9 

- 

3462-0 

- 

757-2 

- 

2899-0 

- 

1622-5 

- 

455  -  3 

- 

2311-1 

- 

746-1 

- 

2805-6 

+ 

858-5 

- 

4310-5 

- 

1594-5 

4- 

4360-5 

+ 

4301-6 

- 

2475-0 

- 

3876-0 

- 

1532-9 

- 

1837-9 

- 

1882-9 

+ 

421-6 

- 

420-5 

+ 

561-7 

- 

1723-7 

— 

1443-5 

0 

+ 

45- 

8 

- 

1505- 

2 

+ 

1458- 

2 

+ 

2069- 

5 

+ 

5352- 

8 

+ 

3978 

5 

+ 

4972 

0 

-f 

8718 

1 

+ 

3789 

5 

+ 

9503 

2 

+ 

2764 

7 

+ 

2576 

8 

+ 

2322 

-3 

+ 

4716 

-8 

+ 

2133 

-3 

+ 

2347 

-4 

- 

1897 

-3 

- 

869 

-9 

+ 

2714 

•8 

+ 

8933 

-0 

+ 

415S 

-7 

+ 

902 

•5 

+ 

5555 

-  2 

+ 

3626 

•8 

- 

262 

•5 

+ 

3025 

-  2 

+ 

4937 

•3 

+ 

1778 

•0 

- 

1423 

-  2 

+ 

114 

-  2 

- 

766 

-3 

+ 

7229 

■6 

+ 

2770 

•3 

_ 

500 

•0 

357 


Appendix  B. 


Summary  C. 

RATIOS    OF    THE    POINTS    REFEKRED    TO    BUJONGOLO,    WHOSE 
HEIGHT  ABOVE   THE  SEA   IS  3,798  METRES  (12,461  FEET). 

The  ratio><  of  the  ]H)infs  are  calculated  v:ith  the  zenith  didances  ofiserred  at  the  rariovs 
stations,  and  with  the  sides  obtained  from  the  triangulation. 


Name  of  the  Points. 


Zenith 

Angles 

Observed. 


Sides. 


Differences 
of  Level. 


Eal  ios 
referred  to 
Bujongolo. 


Station    B.       Extreme    west    base, 
determined  with  the  barometer    . . 

Cagni  Peak 
Edward    ,, 


ratio 


emper 
Signal  A 


Station  A.     Extreme  east  base,  ratio 

Cagni  Peak 
Edward    ,, 


Cagni  Station,  mean  ratio 

Edward    . . 

^Margherita 

A'ittori')  Emanuelc 

I'mberto  . . 

lolanda     . . 

Elena 

Sella 

Wollaston 

!Moore 

E 

Stall's 


Yittorio  Emanuele  Station,  moan  ratio 


Margherita 

Savoia 
L'mherto  . . 
Johnston  . . 
Wollaston 


Alexandra  Station,  mean  ratio 

"Vittorio  Emanuelc  .. 

Edward    .. 

Elena 

Margherita 

Wollaston 

Marghorita,  Is'orth  Peak 


+  18°  47' 
+  22  16 
+  18  27 
+  11  31 


+  23°  24' 

+  22  30 


+  6°  55'  30' 

+  6 

+  4 

+  2 

+  1 

+  5 

+  1 


+  5 
+ 
+ 
+  1 


5  30 

31  30 

5  30 

39  30 

37  30 

58  30 

33  30 

4  36  30 

4  42  30 

30  0 


+  5°  0' 
+  1  30 

-  1  30 

-  5  30 
-40 


0' 
0 
0 
30 
0 


1822  -9 

2359  1 

2680  -2 

288-4 


1637  -9 
2563  -4 


2883 
5681 
4837 
7539 
8142 
4894 
4129 
1485 
1705 
5134 
2961 


+  0  30 


2581  -0 
3183  -6 
3444  -6 
5.56  -7 
3(;34  -2 


2768-1 

3298  -4 

1134-6 

214  -3 

4209  -8 
389  -0 


+  620 
+  966 
+  894 
-  94 


+  709 
+  1062 


+  350 
+  606 
+  383 
+  275 
+  235 
+  482 
+  142 
+  144 
+  137 
+  423 
+   78 


+  226 
+   84 

-  90 

-  54 

-  254 


-  194 

-  231 

-  99 
+   24 

-  443 
+   3 


104 

724 

1070 

998 

10 


10 

719 
1072 


772 

1072 

1328 

11U4 

997 

957 

1204 

864 

8^6 

859 

1144 

8CK) 


1104 

1330 
1188 
1014 
1050 
850 


1302 

1108 
1301 
1203 
1326 
859 
1305 


}58 


II. — Geodetic  Observations. 


SUMM.A.KY  C — continued. 


Name  of  the  Points. 

Zenith 

Angles 

Observed. 

Sides. 

Difffrences 
of  Level. 

Ratios 
referred  to 
Bujongolo. 

"Wollaston  Station,  mean  ratio 

861 

Semper     . . 
lolaiida     . . 
Edward     .. 
Si  airs 
Stuhlmann 

Sella           

Moore 

+    6'  30' 
+    1    00 
+    7    30 

-  1    30 

-  7   00 
0 

-  1    00 

1278  -8 
6968  -2 
1628  -2 
2969  -9 
3748  -8 
3815  -6 
299  1 

+    146 
+    122 
+    214 

-  78 

-  460 

0 

-  5 

1007 
983 

1075 
783 
401 
861 
856 

lolanda  Statiou,  mean  ratio  . . 

.. 

971 

Bottego     .. 

-   3^    0' 

961  0 

-     50 

921 

Camp    IV,    ratio     determined     with     the 
barometer     . . 

710 

G  rauer  Pass 

0° 

0 

•• 

710 

Umberto  Station,  mean  ratio 

.. 

1005 

Eraept- liu  . 

-  0'  8'  30" 

819-3 

-       2 

1003 

Edward  Station,  mean  ratio. . 

.. 

.. 

-. 

1071 

Vittorio  Emanuele 

Moore 

VVeismann 

+    0°30' 

-  7    30 

-  3    30 

3894  -9 
1657  -9 
3386  -4 

+      34 

-  218 

-  208 

1105 
853 
863 

359 


Appendix  B. 


1-3 
> 

< 
o 

H 

Q 


o  ^ 


o 

O 


o 

H 

Q 

P^ 
P^ 

P^ 

1—1 
O 

Pm 

Pd 

H 

Ph 
O 

t/: 
H 

O 
O 


o 

Eh 

l-H 


H 

o 
P5 
< 
pp 

H 

►5^ 


J/2 

P^ 
H 

C5 


S  <^ 


Ratios  adojited  and 
referred  to. 

At  sea-level. 

Ol 

«D  t^  C5  ■*  «  o  t-  cc  cc  c:  ~  T*  CO  CO  c:  cc  c:  ^5  rj  c::  1-  00  ri  M 

IN  X  1.^  —  »  Tj<  c.  QC'  30  :c  lo  —  T*  c;  ■*  -*  CO  L'?  c:  o  '-1  -H  00  3 

00  C:   O  00  CO   CC  1^  •>)   7^1   ri   C   M   X  -^  I^  I-  CO  1^  !N  C-.  1^   X   -f"   00 

IT  ira  IS  a-  CO  1.0  o  i-  lo  »rr  o  co  o  ?-i  co  co  c^  lo  >r:  i.o  co  ■*  o  -m 

oseo-Hiomciiooci^OiMCiXiocco-^^xcooo'N 
i-it^O'N05CO-H"ni.oinc5-*-Moccxc^-»05-^^0 

Loxcvl-(C5i^xcococOlnc5XXr-l-^oxcox-^ln^-C5 

-^Tf<->J<iOTjiT}<-^Tj(T)<^-fTPT}<CO'OiO-*T'^-*'^rf-^eO 

0; 

•oioSuoCna:  -g 

^lA.CO-t^t^^t^i-ti-ICO'M-^r-IOt-iOiMCOCOCi-Ot^i-l-'fi 
oqWOWOiJ^rHCOCOiOO-^COrHOOXOCOLOOi-HfMO 

j>0'-ieo^050xxooi>'^o      cocoi-ioxocot^osrH 

r-)rHi-HrH           rH                                  i— li— (           i— IrHi-Hi-H           i— 1 

X-Mtr-co-MOS  O'MCO  O^'fi 
1  1-  C  ^J  C:  1-  -M  1  1  1  1  1  CO  1  i-H  1  1-  1  1  !  C5  -M  1  O 
lOi-iCOi-iCJOl      1      1      1      lolcoli—     1      1      iCOl^Irt 

i-li-li— li-l^                                      i-Hi-li-l 

Mean. 

>-i-H-i'i^eooio-H^cO(N'*'MON»nxcocoO"Oi-H 

iMt^O*50t^OCOCDin05-*Oi-lOOXCCDiOO^(M     1 
i>  O  1-1  eo  IM  05  O  00  X  Xi>  l-H  O         CO  K)  T-l  O  X  C -*  1>  Ci     1 
1-li-li-HiH          iH                               r-liH          i-lrHr-lrH          i-l 

a 

1 

o 

E 
=f-i 

'    -^ 

1       c 
■J 
-§ 

o 

1 

•AI  dniBO 

710 

•.);.UH|lU£l 



8001 



•BpUBIOI 

921 

■-Bna^a; 

1303 

,i»n|,||t^iCO|,|,(M|||CO|,,|| 
•pjt3A\p%r                  o                    >o       in                    o               o    1 

I           LJl             I1,-IIIIqo'oo''''co'I'x''''' 

•sj;tT?4g 

859 

•jpnn'Bmg; 
ouo44t^Y 

•uoqsBno^ 

1014 

1298 
1188 

1050 

983 

861 
856 

783 

1007 
401 

■TupnBxa^Y 

1326 
1203 

859 
1305 

•'B4uan§at?j\[ 

1302 

•uiSkO 

1  »^  o  -N  o  m  CI  CO  CO  lo  ci  -+    1     i     i     i     i     i     i     i     i     i     |     i 
lO-^W-NCiCiXXXt^^l      1     1     1      1      1     1     1      1     1      1     1 

m 

-*  O                                                       X  o 
'Mt^llllllllllOi'-^llllllilll 

<i 

719 
1072 

'o 

fin 

.     .   1 ^ 

- 11 1,  :e  1 1 1     c  '-   :  i  :  1 1fH^  'I  i  1 J  i  1  : 

330 


III.— PvEPORT  ON  ]\IETE(3E0L0GICAL  AND 
ALTDFETEIC  OBSERVATIONS  MADE  BY 
H.R.H.  THE  DUKE  OF  THE  ABBUZZI'S 
EXPEDITION  TO  RUWENZOEI  (1906). 

By  Prof.  DOMENICO  0M0DP:I. 

The  meteorological  observations  were  made  during  the  whole  journey, 
from  16th  May  to  12th  August,  for  the  twofold  purpose  of  first  giving  an  idea 
of  the  climate  of  these  regions,  at  least  for  the  short  time  of  stay,  and  then  of 
determining,  at  least  approximately,  the  altitudes  of  the  various  places,  and 
especially  of  the  more  important  points  of  the  Kuwenzori  Range,  which  was  the 
chief  objective  of  the  exijedition. 

The  instruments  used  in  the  ol)servations  consisted  of  three  mercurial 
barometers  *  of  the  Fortin  type,  one  registering  barometer,  three  aneroids,  two 
hvpsometric  thermometers,  three  thermometers  and  one  psychrometer. 

Before  starting,  these  instruments  were  carefully  compared  with  the 
normal  instruments,  and  to  all  the  data,  which  are  recorded  farther  on,  were 
applied  the  terms  of  correction  thus  estal)lished. 

During  the  first  part  of  the  journey  from  Enteljlje  t  to  Fort  Portal,  from 
IGth  to  28th  May,  the  observations  for  pressure,  temperature  and  humidity, 
as  well  as  those  relating  to  the  state  of  the  weather,  were  taken  every  day  at 
noon,  while  other  less  complete  observations  were  made  at  15  and  21  o'clock. 
The  summary  of  the  observations  is  contained  in  the  accompanying  Table  I. 
The  maximum  and  miuinuun  temperatures  have  reference  to  the  whole  period 
of  the  stay  of  the  expedition  in  a  given  station,  that  is,  generally  from  about 
10  or  11  in  the  morning  till  the  first  antemeridian  hours  of  the  next  day. 


*  Two  graduated  from  720  to  240  mm.,  luid  one  from  480  to  290  iinn.  for  the  iiphmds. 
t  Here  there  is  an  observatory,  the  altitude  of  wliich  is  knowu,  hence  it  was  taken  as 
the  basal  station  for  tlie  determination    of  tlie  altitudes  of  places  between  Entebbe  and  Fort 

P..rtal. 

361 


Appendix  B. 

At  the  Eiitel)be  Obser\atorv  tlie  meteorological  ol)servatious  were  regularly 
carried  out  three  times  in  the  day,  at  7,  14  and  21  of  mean  local  time,  which 
differs  2  hours,  8  minutes  and  45  seconds  from  mean  Greenwich  time,  whereas 
those  of  barometric  pressure  during  the  journey  could  be  made  only  at  noon 
of  local  time. 

Hence  in  the  al>sence  of  synchronous  corresponding  data  of  Entebbe,  for 

the  pressure  the  mean  of  the  hours  7,  14  and  21  has  l)een  assumed,  and  from 

this  mean  the  pressure  at  noon  may,  generally  speaking,  be  taken  to  differ  but 

slightly.     For    the    temperature  and  the    tension    of    aqueous  vapour  that  of 

the  nearest  hour,  that  is  14,  has  l)een  assumed.     In  Tal)le  II  have  been  Ijrought 

together  the  data  of  the  observations  made  at  Ente1)be*  l)3tween   16th  and 

28th  May.     From  the  data  supplied  by  the  two  Tables  I  and  II  were  calculated 

the  altitudes  of  the  various  stations   relatively  to  Entebbe  b}'  means  of  the 

fornuila  :  t 

/  1 

Z=  18400  (1,00157  +  0,00367  0)  ! 

i  1  -  0,378  y 
(l+0,00259cos2X)(.+|±iij)log| 

where  Z  expresses  the  difference  of  level  between  the  two  stations. 
H,j  the  pressure  reduced  to  0'^  in  the  lower  station. 
H  the  pressure  reduced  to  0"  in  the  upper  station. 

^  =  -^^^ — ^the  mean  l)etween  the  temperature  /,,  of  the  aii'  in  the  lower 
station  and  tliat  of  i  in  the  upper  station. 

0  = '  '^  iy  '    the  mean   between   the  vapour  tension   /i,  in  the  lower  station 

and  /'  that  of  the  upper  station. 
Hq  +  H 

X  the  latitude, 

,:  the  latitude  of  the  lower  station  al)ove  sea-level. 

The  headings  II,„  Z^,,  /j,,  H,  /,  /,  which  figure  above  the  columns  in  the 
following  tallies,  refer  to  the  use  of  the  formula  for  the  calculation  of  which  use 
has  been  made  of  the  "  Tal>les  Meteorologiques  internationales  "  (Paris,  1890). 

*  According  to  tlie  certiKciite  of  tlic  "  National  Plivsical  Laboratory,"  tlic  barometer  of 
the  Entebbe  Observatory  lias  a  correction  of  —  0001  inch. 

t  This  formula  of  Kiihlmann  lias  been  adopted  without  more  ado  as  tlie  most  general  and 
complete,  eince  a  discussion  on  the  choice  of  altinietric  formulas,  which  should  take  account 
of  the  recent  results  on  the  law  of  variation  of  the  meteorological  elements  in  the  open  air 
and  on  the  slopes  of  tlie  mountains,  would  not  be  in  accord  witli  the  few  available  data,  data 
which,  moreover,  cannot  always  be  obtained  under  the  best  conditions. 

362 


GO 

196 

•18 

59 

177 

•16 

U 

40 

•0 

84 

275 

■60 

151 

495 

■41 

ii;} 

370 

■74 

13G 

446' 

■20 

18S 

556  • 

•81 

125 

410' 

11 

199 

652  ■ 

■86 

298 

977' 

■7.3 

III. — IMeteorological,  etc.,   Ubservaiions. 

The  following  are  the  results  obtained*  : 

Altitude  of  Bweya  ...   relatively  to  Entelibe  m.       71  about  2.32-8    ft. 

„  Mitiana  ...         ,,  ,,         „ 

„  Bujougo 

„  Bimbye  ...  „  „ 

„  Kijenmla         ...  „  „  „ 

„  Maibubi  ...  „  „  „ 

„  Mudmnu  ...  „  „  „ 

„  Lwainutukuza  ,,  ,,         ,, 

„  Kichiomi         ...         ,,  „         ,, 

„  Misongo  ...         „  „         „ 

„  Kaibo  ...         ,,  „ 

,,  Butiti  ...         „  ,,         „  :. 

As  it  is  almost  needless  to  state,  these  altitudes  have  very  uncertain  value, 
either  because  obtained  by  isolated  observations  made  at  different  hours,  or  else 
because  to  very  slightly  diff"erent  levels  correspond  considerable  horizontal 
distances,  as  between  Entebbe  and  Fort  Portal  (about  225  kilometres  =  nearly 
140  miles). 

But  for  this  last  inconvenience,  greater  proba1)ilities  of  accuracy  would 
l)e  presented  l)y  the  determination  of  the  altitude  of  Fort  Portal.  Here  there 
is  an  observatory  which  has  been  recently  foiuided,  but  the  height  of  which 
relatively  to  Entebbe  has  not  yet  been  determined  geodetically,  but  was ' 
obtained  from  the  ol)served  data  during  the  whole  quarter,  May,  June,  and 
July,  1906,  so  that  the  influence  of  the  various  sources  of  error  may  be 
regarded  as  considerably  lessened. 

In  the  subjoined  Table  III  are  recorded  all  these  data,  the  outcome  of 
which  was  that  the  difference  of  altitude  between  Entebbe  and  Fort  Portalf 
is  .355  metres  (1,170  feet). 


*  The  calculation  has  been  omitted  for  Katende  which,  as  shown  by  tlie  pressure,  stands 
at  very  nearly  the  same  level  as  Entebbe. 

t  From  the  comparisons  made  on  the  30th  and  31st  May,  and  again  on  the  21st  and 
24tli  July  between  the  two  Fortin  barometers  of  the  expedition  and  the  barometer  No.  2,025 
(Xegretti  and  Zambra)  of  the  English  Observatory  at  Fort  Portal,  it  appeared  that  tlie 
former  gave  a  mean  indication  of  5-17  mm.  =  i  inch  (at  0°)  above  tliab  of  the  latter.  Since 
tliis  difference  was  verified  in  an  equal  degree  with  the  two  barometers  of  the  ex]X"dition, 
which  kept  in  perfect  agreement  with  each  other  at  Fort  Portal,  as  they  had  liefore  tlie 
journey,  it  was  thought  reasonable  to  apply  to  all  the  pressures  yielded  by  tlu-  baronu'ter  of 
the  Fort  Portal  Observatory,  the  constant  correction  5-17  mm.  To  the  end  of  November, 
1907,  the  correction  of  the  Kcw  Observatory  had  not  yet  been  obtained  for  tlie  Fort  Portal 
barometer. 

363 


Appendix  B. 

A  result  quite  couforniuljle  (the  ditierence  is  less  thiui  liulf  a  metre,  or 
18  or  19  inches)  is  reached  by  assuming  for  the  calculation  the  means  of  the 
data  of  Entel)be  and  Fort  Portal  for  seven  months  of  the  year  1905  {^ee 
Tal)le  lY). 

It  was  impossible  to  include  the  whole  year,  because  no  ol)servations  were 
made  at  Fort  Portal  from  May  to  Seistember,  1905.  Hence,  the  Enteblje 
Observatory  being  3,863  English  feet,  or  1,177  metres  aljove  sea-level,  it 
follows  that  Fort  Portal  stands  at  about  1,532  metres  (5,025  feet)  above 
the  sea. 

After  a  stay  of  two  days  at  Fort  Portal,  the  expedition  stalled  on 
1st  June  from  Fort  Portal  for  Ruwenzori. 

In  the  appended  Table  V  are  given  the  data  of  the  observations  made  at 
the  various  encampments,  as  in  Tal)le  YI  the  corresponding  data  of  Fort  Portal, 
where,  at  the  request  of  H.E.H.,  Mr.  John  de  Souza,  Director  of  the  Observa- 
tory, besides  the  ordinary  observations  for  the  hours  7,  14,  and  21,  made  one 
also  at  noon  for  the  whole  time  that  elapsed  between  the  departure  of  the 
expedition  from,  and  its  return  to,  Fort  Portal. 

From  the  data  of  Tallies  Y  and  YI  have  Ijcen  calculated  the  following 
altitudes : 

Altitude  of  Duwona      relatively  to  Fort  Portal  al)Out  m.  5-4=^     177-0  ft. 

„  Kasongo  „  „  „  „  „  „  136=     446-2  „ 

„  Ibanda  „  ,,  „  „  „  „  458=     518-3  „ 

„  Eihunga  „  „  „  „  „  „  388  =  1,273-0  „ 

„  Xakitawa  „  „  ,,  „  „  „  1,120  =  3,674-6  ,, 

„  Kichuchu  „  „  „  „  „  „  1,465  =  5,788-2  „ 

„  Buaml)a  .,  „  „  „  „  „  1,986  =  6,515-8  „ 

On  Sth  .June  the  expedition  i-eaehed  Eujongolo,  a  place  which  is  comprised 
within  the  Puwenzoii  uplands,  and  as  this  formed  the  basal  station  and  point  of 
reference  for  all  the  measurements  to  be  sul)sequently  taken  during  the  exjjlora- 
tion,  the  observations  were  here  made  regularly  from  16th  June  to  12th  July, 
under  conditions  far  more  favourable  than  those  that  would  be  secured  while 
en  route.  The  instruments  were  suspended  from  a  vertical  table  supported 
by  two  posts,  which  were  firmly  planted  in  the  ground  at  a  height  of  about 
five  feet  above  the  surface,  and  protected  from  the  effects  of  insulation  and  of 
the  rain  by  a  large  awning  extended  above  at  a  <listance  of  about  a  foot. 

At  Table  A" II I  are  given  the  results  of  these  observations,  which  are 
recorded  in  full,  not  OJily  because  they  have  been  used  for  the  calculation  of  the 

364 


TIT. — Meteorological,  etc.,   Observations. 

altitudes,  l)ut  also  because  they  serve  to  give  an  idea  of  the  climate  of*  that 
interesting  locality. 

Then  at  Table  VII  are  brought  together  the  data  of  Fort  Portal  for  the 
same  period  of  time,  l)earing  in  mind  that  to  the  pressures  reduced  to  0'  has 
been  ai)plied  the  already-mentioned  constant  term  of  correction  +5"17mm. 
Thenfrom  the  mean  data  of  Tables  VII  and  VIII  was  calculated  the  difference 
of  level  between  Bujongolo  and  Fort  Portal.  The  first  calculation  was  made 
with  the  data  of  the  synchronous  midday  observations  at  Bujongolo  and  Fort 
Portal,  and  was  found  to  1)e  2,27G-7  metres  (7,468-5  feet). 

But  when  we  allow  for  the  considerable  difference  of  level  between  the  two 
observed  stations,  we  cannot  assert  Avith  certainty  that  the  law  of  daily  variation 
of  pressure  is  identical  in  both  places,  hence  the  coincidence  of  the  hour  of 
observation  does  not  imply  identity  of  modifications  in  the  atmospheric  ebb  and 
flow,  so  that  it  becomes  advisable  to  try  and  take  advantage  of  the  other 
observed  data  too,  besides  those  of  midday.  Therefore  with  the  mean  daily 
values  of  pressure,  temperature,!  and  vapour  tension  for  Fort  Portal  (obtained 
from  the  mean  of  the  three  observations  of  the  hours  7,  14,  and  21  for 
Bujongolo)  are  associated  the  mean  values  of  the  pressure  and  vapour  tension 
deduced  from  the  two  observations  of  the  hours  9  and  17.  These,  when  account 
is  taken  of  the  normal  movement  of  the  daily  A'ariations  of  pressure  and  tension, 
should  not  difter  greatly  from  the  diurnal  mean. 

For  the  temperature  of  Bujongolo  we  have  assumed  the  mean  of  the 
maximum  and  minimum  temperature,  which,  in  the  absence  of  more  complete 
data,  is  the  one  that  approaches  nearest  to  the  mean  daily  temperature. 

AVith  the  values  thus  obtained,  and  recorded  at  foot  of  Tables  VII  and  VIII, 
the  difference  of  level  has  l)een  calculated  between  Fort  Portal  and  Bujongolo, 
and  is  found  to  be  2,2.55-7  metres  (7,376  feet). 

Taking  as  a  more  approximate  value  the  mean  between  this  and  the 
preceding  value,  we  get  as  the  height  of  Bujongolo  al)(jve  Fort  Portal 
^2,306  metres  (7,432  feet),  and  adding  to  this  value  the  altitude  of  Fort  Portal 
above  the  sea,  the  elevation  of  Bujongolo  above  the  sea  is  found  to  Ije 
3,79S  metres  (12,461  feet). 

The  camp  being  estal)lished  at  Bujongolo,  where,  as  already  stated,  regular 
observations  were  taken  three  times  daily  from  15th  June  to  12th  July,  the 
excursions  began  to  the  chief  places  in  the  Ruwenzori  Eange.     The  instruments 


*  Owing  to  the  requirements  of  daily  life  at  the  Bujongolo  encampment,  the  meteoro- 
logical observations  were  taken  at  the  hours  of  9,  12,  and  17,  inr^trad  of  7,  l-t,  and  21,  as  at 
Fort  Portal  and  Entebbe. 

t  In  the  calculation  of  temperature  no  account  is  taken  of  the  maxinnmi  and  miniiuuiii, 
because  at  times  they  disagree  with  tlie  other  temperatures  of  the  day. 

365 


Appendix  B. 

brought  with  us  ou  these  excursions  were : — ;i  Fortin  liarometer  which  luid  for 
a  long  time  been  compared  with  another  left  at  Bujongolo  ;  an  aneroid  likewise 
compared  with  the  two  Fortius  ;  a  thermometer  for  taking  the  temperature  of 
the  air,  and  two  hypsometric  thermometers. 

For  the  more  important  points,  for  instance,  for  nearly  all  the  peaks,  and 
always  where  possilile,  the  measurements  of  pressure  were  made  with  the 
mercurial  liarometer,  the  aneroid  l)eing  used  only  in  a  few  special  cases  where 
it  would  liave  been  very  difficult  to  carry,  or  take  measurements  with  the 
mercurial  Iwrometei-,  and  also  for  places  of  secondary  importance.  The 
precaution,  however,  was  taken  to  take  down  or  record  the  indications  of  the 
aneroid  even  whenever  the  Fortin  was  used. 

Not  till  after  12th  July,  when  the  Fortin  got  damaged,  was  the  hypsometer 
employed.  Whenever  it  was  possible,  the  observations  were  made  at  the  same 
hours  as  those  of  Bujongolo  (9,  12,  and  17),  but  occasionally  this  was  not 
possible,  and  then  we  assumed  as  terms  of  comparison  the  data  of  Bujongolo 
made  at  the  nearest  hours,  unless  there  were  reasons  for  adopting  the  mean 
of  two  consecutive  data. 

In  connection  with  this  preferable  choice  of  data  for  the  calculation  of 
altitudes  it  should  be  noted  that  for  places  for  which  the  daily  variation  of 
pressure,  temperature,  etc.,  is  known,  that  is  to  say,  where  the  hour  of  the 
maxima  and  minima  and  the  extent  of  the  daily  variations  are  ascertained,  it 
is  possible  to  reduce  a  determination  made  at  any  given  hour  to  another 
determined  hour.  But  in  the  present  case  these  fundamental  notions  are 
lacking,  and  for  regions  such  as  that  under  consideration,  meteorological  studies 
are  too  rare  to  enable  us  confidently  to  extend  to  them  those  laws  that  have 
been  established  for  regions  of  the  temperate  zone.* 

For  Bujongolo  we  should  no  doubt  have  some  element  to  estal)lish 
approximately  the  daily  movement  of  pressure,  temperature,  etc.,  but  the  same 
cannot  be  said  for  the  other  places  in  Euwenzori,  and  especially  for  the  peaks. 

For  these  reasons  the  heights  were  calculated  with  the  data,  such  as  they 
were,  without  modifying  them  in  any  way  on  the  ground  of  the  hours  when 
the  observations  were  made. 

Another  matter,  which,  however,  has  no  great  influence,  is  that  concerned 
with  the  humidity,  or  rather  the  tension  of  the  aqueous  vapour  which  is  always 

*  Let  one  example  suflBce  to  show  what  caution  is  necessary  in  this  respect.  At 
Bujongolo  the  mean  pressure  at  9  o'clock  is  488'87  nun.  (see  Table  VIIT,  G)  ;  at  12,  48867, 
and  at  17,  48808,  so  that  the  maximum  of  the  morning  is  reached  before  midday,  and 
at  this  hour  the  barometer  is  already  falling.  On  the  other  hand  on  the  Siintis  Peak 
^2,467  metres),  the  maximum  of  the  morning  is  delayed  till  toward  14  o'clock,  and  on  Mt.  Bliinc 
(4,811  metres),  till  towards  15  (Angot,  ineteorologie). 

366 


in. — Meteorological,  etc.,  Observations. 

found  to  a  greater  or  less  extent  in  the  atmosphere.      In  the  formula  which 
serves  for  the  calculation  of  the  altitudes  (.sre  p.  362)  there  occurs  the  factor 

1      A  o-o      where  0  is  the  mean  vapour  tension  at  the  two  stations,  and  >,  the 
1  -  v,oio  0  ' 

'/ 
mean  of  the  pressures,  and  this  factor  has  reference  to  the  influence  exercised 
by  the  presence  of  the  aqueous  vapour  on  the  readings  of  barometric  altitudes. 
For  Bujongolo  the  vapour  tension   is  known,  but  not  for  the  observed  places 
on  Ruwenzori,  as  here  no  psychrometric  observations  were  made. 

The  neglect  of  the  factor  relating  to  the  hiimidity  might  be  a  cause  of 
error,  to  eliminate  which,  at  least  partly,  a  mean  humidity  of  al)out  60  has  been 
admitted  for  the  stratum  of  the  air  comprised  between  Bujongolo  and  the 
observed  station.* 

This  humidity  of  60  is  certainly  less  than  the  true  mean,  since  at 
Bujongolo  the  humidity  is  always  very  high  (mean  89),  and  there  is  reason 
to  believe  that  it  is  always  consideralile  in  the  other  places  too,  where  cloud v, 
foggy  and  rainy  weather  prevail. 

On  the  Tables  IX,  X,  XI  and  XII  are  recorded  the  altitudes  of  the  various 
other  places  on  Kuwenzori,  calculated  with  the  previously  indicated  norma'. 

Regarding  the  results  obtained,  it  may  be  noticed  that  the  determinations 
made  with  the  mercurial  barometer  were  found  to  agree  sufficiently  Avell  with 
each  other  whenever  it  was  possible  to  make  more  than  one  determination  for 
any  given  place,  and  they  agree  also  with  the  survevs  made  with  geodetic 
methods. 

Owing  to  the  irregular  l>ehaviour  of  the  aneroid  barometers,  the  measure- 
ments taken  with  these  instruments  present  a  far  less  degree  of  approximation. 

*  To  show  the  possible  iii8uence  of  such  a  correction,  reference  may  be  made  to  the 

special  case  of  the  Margherita  Peak.     Here  the  pressure  at  11   o'clock  on  18th  June  was 

414'0  mm  and  the  temperature  —  3°"3  Celsius  (2G°'6  F.),  whereas  at  Bujongolo,  at  12  o'clock 

on  the  same  day,  the  pressure  was  4879  mm.  and   tlie   temperature  5°'l  Celsius   (-Jl'  F.), 

hence  the  mean  pressure  was  about  451  mm.  and  the  mean  temperature  0^*9  Celsius  (33'  F.). 

Had  the  air  been  saturated  at  this  temperature  the  vapour  tension  would  have  been  4'87  mm. 

Admitting  a  humidity  of  CO  the  tension  falls  to  2"92  mm.,  with  which  datum,  and  witli  the 

mean  pressure  of  451,  we  get  tlie  cologarithni  of  tlie   term  of  correction  for  the  luunidity, 

namely  : 

colog  1 =0-00103 

1-0-378''' 
1 

Without  taking  account  of  tlie  liuniidity.  tlie  height  of  Margherita  Peak  above  Bujongolo 
was  found  to  be  1,324  metres  ;  with  this  added  it  beconu's  1,327  metres,  tliat  is  to  say,  we 
have  a  rise  of  about  0'22  per  cent.  Admitting  a  luunidity  of  80  the  lieight  would  become 
1,328"5  metres,  with  a  rise  of  0-33  per  cent. 

367 


Appendix  B. 

In  fact,  ill  spite  of  every  care  taken  to  make  continual  comparisons  with  the 
Fortin  barometer,  the  term  of  correction  did  not  keep  constant,  not  only  from 
day  to  day,  Init  even  during  the  same  day  whenever  the  instrument  got  shaken 
or  was  exposed  to  siidden  changes  of  altitude. 

Hence,  to  avoid  errors  that  might  even  be  serious,  a  cautious  and  limited 
use  has  been  made  of  the  data  obtained  with  the  aneroid.  Thus,  the 
simultaneous  indications  of  the  Foitin  and  the  aneroid  being  noted,  and  the 
altitiide  obtained  from  the  former  being  taken  as  correct,  the  indications  of 
the  latter  have  served  to  establish  differences  of  level,  which  were  inconsiderable 
relatively  to  the  point  of  comparison.  When  this  process  was  completed  the 
comparison  was  renewed,  so  that  the  data  first  obtained  were  brought  under 
control. 

In  general  the  reported  data  result  from  the  mean  of  two  or  more 
determinations,  and  may  consequently  l)e  I'egarded  as  sufficiently  accurate. 

As  to  the  altitudes  of  the  places  passed  by  the  expedition  on  the  return 
journey,  that  is,  from  and  after  the  14th  July,  these  were  all  obtained  by 
means  of  comparisons  with  the  data  oliserved  simultaneously  at  Ibanda.*  Then, 
for  the  sake  of  uniformity,  they  were  reduced,  like  the  previous  ones,  to  the 
common  level  of  Bujongolo. 

Amongst  the  determinati(jns  made  relatively  to  Uganda  was  that  of 
lolanda  Peak,  the  altitude  of  which  will  consequently  not  be  so  near  the  truth 
as  that  of  the  other  peaks.  And,  besides  the  inconvenience  of  Ibanda  lying 
still  lower  than  Fort  Fortal,  there  was  also  the  trouble  caused  by  the  breaking 
of  one  of  the  mercurial  barometers,  instead  of  which  we  had  to  use  the 
hypsometer,  which  yields  a  less  degree  of  approximation  in  the  readings. 


N  0  T  E. 

In  the  western  districts  of  the  Uganda  Protectorate  the  geodetic  survey 
has  not  yet  Ijeen  carried  out,  but  the  far-seeing  Britisli  Government  is  taking  it 
in  hand,  and  no  doubt  it  will  soon  be  an  accomplished  fact.  Hence  it  might 
seem  reasonable  to  refer  the  various  altitudes  of  tlie  Ivuwenzori  group,  not 
to  Bujongolo,  l)ut  to  Fort  North  Portal,  the  exact  height  of  which  above 
sea-level  will  soon  be  known.  In  fact,  this  very  critical  point  is  being  seen  to 
by  Messrs.  H.  Y.  Tegart  and  H.  E.  Maddox,  who  have  recently  published  some 


*  For  the  altitude  of  Ibanda  relatively  to  Fort  Portal -lt8  was  assumed,  tiiis  beinc  the 
)ean  of  the  observations  made  on  going  and  returning. 

368 


Til. — Meteorological,  etc.,  Observations. 

valuable  studies  on  Kuwenzori.  But  if  the  data  ha^e  ueveitheless  been  referred 
to  Bujongolo,  it  was  because  they  offered  greater  guarantees  of  accuracy,  and 
this  for  the  following  reasons  :^ 

First  of  all,  the  difference  of  altitude  between  Bujongolo  and  Fort  Portal 
may  l)e  regarded  as  near  enough,  having  been  obtained  from  a  considerable 
number  of  observations.  On  this  account  we  may  consider  as  partially  com- 
pensated those  sources  of  error  which  are  due  to  atmospheric  distui'l>ances, 
such  as  may  have  a  great  influence  on  isolated  measurements,  especially  when 
dealing  Avith  very  remote  stations.  Such  would  precisely  have  been  the  case  if 
the  data  observed  on  Kuwenzori  had  been  directly  compared  with  those 
corresponding  hour  for  hour  with  Fort  Portal.  But  by  making  the  comparisons 
with  the  data  obtained  at  Bujongolo,  a  much  nearer  place,  one  may  fairly 
assume  a  greater  uniformity  of  atmospheric  conditions. 

Then  there  is  another  fact  Avhich  shows  the  greater  convenience  of  the 
course  adopted.  It  is  seen  in  the  following  example  to  which  many  others 
might  be  added. 

On  7th  July,  at  12  o'clock,  on  Edward  Peak,  the  pressure  (reduced  to  0°) 
was  428-5  mm.,  and  the  temperature  V-Q  Celsius  (34"-4:  F.),  the  corresponding 
readings  being  at  Bujongolo  489-16  mm.  and  3 '-9  Celsius  (39"  F.),  and  at  Fort 
Portal  638-69  mm.,  and  23=-3  Celsius  (74°  F.). 

Calculating  from  these  data  the  difference  of  level  between  Edward  Peak 
and  Fort  Portal,  and  then  separately  betw^een  Edward  Peak  and  Bujongolo,  and 
between  Bujongolo  and  Fort  Portal,  we  get : — * 

Difference  of  level  between  Edward  Peak  and  Fort  Portal   ...  3,355  metres 

Difference  of  level   between    Edward   Peak  and 

Bujongolo       1,074  metres 

Difference  of  level  between  Bujongolo  and  Fort 

Portal 2,249       „ 


Total  difference  of  level  between  Edward  Peak 

and  Fort  Portal        3,323  metres  (10,900  feet) 

Therefore,  with  the  direct  calculation,  and  omitting  Bujongolo,  we  have  a 
difference  of  over  32  metres  (105  feet). 

Such  a  difference  arises  from  the  fact  that  whereas  the  law  of  Laplace 
is  based  on  the  hypothesis  of  a  static  equilibriimi  of  the  atmosphere,  and  of 
a  temperature  and  humidity  which  decrease  regularly  with  the  altitude,  this 
does  not  take  place  in  the  present  instance. 

*  In  this  estimate  no  account  is  taken  of  the  tension  of  the  aqueous  vapour. 

369  2  li 


Appendix  B. 

In  fact,  the  temperature  being  23-9  Celsius  (75'  ¥.)  at  Fort  Portal,  and 
r-6  Celsius  (34°-4  F.)  at  Edward  Peak,  a  difference  of  22°-3  Celsius  (72°-6  F.), 
if  the  decrease  occurred  proportionately  to  the  altitude  the  temperature  of 
Bujongolo  should  be  about  7°-2  Celsius  (45°  F.),  whereas  it  is  only  3°-9  Celsius 
(39°-7F,).  This,  therefore,  means  that  the  colunui  of  air  has  a  lower  temperature* 
than  is  assumed  l)y  the  theory,  so  that  to  an  e(|ual  diflference  of  pressure 
corresponds  a  less  difference  of  altitude. 

Lastly,  in  connection  with  determinations  of  this  nature,  it  is  not  to  be 
forgotten  that  results  now  well  established  are  : — 

1.  That  heights  calculated  by  means  of  thermo-barometric  observations 
are  generally  found  to  be  greater  with  measurements  made  by  day  compared 
with  those  made  by  night.  They  present  a  considerable  daily  range  with  the 
maximum  value  shortly  before  the  maximum  daily  temperature,  and  the 
minimum  one  or  two  hours  before  sunrise.  The  extent  of  range  is  influenced 
by  the  season,  the  local  conditions,  and  the  state  of  the  sky. 

2.  That  the  altitudes  calculated  with  the  mean  daily  or  monthly  values  of 
the  observations  are  found  to  be  too  low  in  winter  and  too  high  in  summer  ; 
>vith  the  annual  mean  they  differ  little  from  the  actual  heights. 


*  Caused  probably  by  the  great  musses  of  iee  on  Ruw  enz.^ri. 

370 


III. — Meteorological, 


etc.,  Observations. 


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372 


TIL — Meteorological,  etc.,  Observations. 


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373 


Appendix  B. 


Table  IV 


f:NTEBBE. 


FORT  PORTAL. 


Pressure 

in 
inches. 

Asso- 
ciated 
therm. 
F. 

Psychrometer. 

Pressure 

in 
inches. 

Asso- 
ciated 
therm. 
F. 

Psychrometer. 

Months. 

Dry 

therm. 
F. 

Wet. 

therm. 

F. 

Dry 
therm. 

Wet 

therm. 

F. 

o 

o 

0 

o 

o 

o 

Jamiarv  . . 

7 

26  -281 

66  8 

66-3 

64-8 

24  -969 

59  3 

57^6 

56  1 

1. 

14 

•245 

77-9 

76-0 

70  4 

24  950 

73  6 

74-3 

65  6 

1, 

21 

•257 

69  4 

69  1 

66-6 

24  956 

62-7 

61  7 

59  5 

February.. 

7 

•276 

67  7 

66  8 

64-3 

24  964 

59  6 

58  0 

55  1 

„ 

14 

•236 

81-3 

79  1 

71  -3 

24  -950 

76-4 

76  1 

64  1 

,. 

21 

•229 

70-5 

70-0 

67-3 

24  -954 

61-7 

60  7 

57^7 

March     . . 

7 

•264 

68^6 

67-8 

65  1 

24  973 

62  1 

61^1 

53  8 

>. 

14 

•217 

76-8 

74-9 

68  9 

24  943 

75-0 

73  -3 

65-2 

21 

•245 

70-6 

69-9 

66-9 

24  958 

63  0 

62-5 

60  3 

April 

7 

•299 

69-4 

68  5 

66  0 

24  995 

62  2 

CO -6 

58-8 

„ 

14 

•244 

77  1 

74^7 

69  5 

24  974 

78^3 

75-4 

66  3 

>, 

21 

•244 

69-8 

69-9 

66-9 

24  ^979 

63  1 

62-6 

60  1 

October    . 

7 

•257 

66  3 

65  3 

63  9 

25  098 

65  3 

64-1 

60  1 

,. 

14 

•221 

79-0 

76  1 

09  9 

25  075 

72  3 

69-9 

62-7 

„ 

21 

•241 

69-6 

69-0 

66-4 

24  -sea 

63  5 

65-2 

60  0 

NoTcmber 

7 

•272 

65  7 

65  1 

63  ^9 

25  067 

65  9 

61  9 

59  5 

,, 

14 

•229 

77^8 

75  5 

69-4 

25  048 

72-9 

71-8 

65  1 

» 

21 

•247 

69  5 

68  9 

66-6 

24  -904 

63  0 

65  7 

59  0 

December 

7 

•262 

66-4 

65  4 

64-2 

25  025 

64-1 

59-7 

58^4 

))       •  • 

14 

•227 

78  1 

75-0 

69  3 

25  098 

75  0 

71-9 

64  9 

»       •  • 

21 

•246 

69  8 

69  3 

66  4 

25  885 

64  2 

68  5 

62  0 

Means 

26  648 

71-8 

70  6 

67  1 

24  982 

66-8 

65^8 

60  6 

Correct  pressiire  r 

edijced  to 

O''  and  in  i 

nm...  H||  = 

-  ()64  ^28 

H  =  6C 

i7  70 

Temperature  in  c 

enti  grades 

i 

....   ^0  = 

=    21  -4 

(  =    ] 

8^8 

Vapour  tens 

ion  ii 

1  mm.     .. 

•  .  /o  = 

=    15  7 

/=   :i 

LI -7 

374 


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III. — Meteorological,  etc.,  Observations. 


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380 


APPENDIX  C 


CONTAINS  A  SUMMARY  OF  THE  GEOLOGICAL, 
PETROGRAPHIC,  AND  MINERALOGICAL 
OBSERVATIONS  WHICH  WERE  MADE  BY  H.R.H. 
THE  DUKE  OF  THE  ABRUZZI'S  RUWENZORI 
EXPEDITLON,  TOGETHER  WITH  A  LIST  OF  THE 
NEW  ZOOLOGICAL  AND  BOTANICAL  GENERA 
AND  SPECIES  COLLECTED  IN  THE  RUWENZORE 
REGIONS. 


Note. — All  these  observations  are  fully  embodied  in  the 
scientific  volume  which  is  published  only  in  Italian,  and  in 
which  are  also  described  and  illustrated  the  new  zoological 
and   botanical   specimens. 


381 


SUMMARY 

OF  THE  GEOLOGICAL  OBSERVATIONS  MADE  IX 
UGANDA  AND  IN  THE  RUWENZORI  RANGE 
DURING  THE  EXPEDITION  OF  H.R.H.  THE 
DUKE   OF   THE   ABRUZZI, 


BY 


ALESSANDRO  ROCCATI. 


I.— UGANDA 


Overlooking  for  the  present  the  recent  surface  formations  of  concretionary 
limonite  and  of  laterite,  that  part  of  Uganda  which  wag  traversed  by  H.R.H. 
the  Duke  of  the  Abruzzi's  Expedition  was  found  to  be  for  the  most  part 
•constituted  of  the  crystalline  rocks  which  form  the  archsean  plateau  of  Central 
Africa.  A  not  inconsiderable  tract,  however,  of  the  region  traversed  is  covered 
with  sedimentary  formations  referable  to  the  Palaeozoic  Age,  and  in  the  inter- 
mediate neighbourhood  of  Fort  Portal  there  is  an  apparently  limited  zone  in 
which  the  crystalline  rocks  are  overlaid  l)y  recent  volcanic  formations, 
represented  by  stratified  tuffs  which  I  take  to  be  of  subaqueous  origin. 

Archcean. — On  leaving  Entebbe  in  the  direction  of  the  west,  archaean 
-crystalline  rocks  are  followed  from  the  shores  of  Lake  Victoria  nearly  to 
Mitiana.  Here  begin  to  appear  the  palaeozoic  formations,  which,  interrupted 
here  and  there  by  out-cropping  roor.'ic-grained  granite  and  ^;gj7?«rt/«7f,  extend  to 
within  a  few  miles  of  Kasiba,  where  they  suddenly  disappear  altogether,  their 
place  being  taken  by  the  crystalline  rocks,  which  continue  westwards  without 
further  break  and  thus  constitute  the  whole  of  the  Ruwenzori  Range. 

The  archsean  rocks  are  re^^vesentedhy  mica-scliisf.%  gneiss,  and  granites  (eihvdys 
associated  with  numerous  quartzites),  amongst  which  are  here  and  there  noticed 
intrusive  greenstones,  and  seams  of  pegmatite,  microgranite,  etc. 

382 


Suinmarv  of  Geological  Observations. 

All  the  gneiss  and  granitic  rocks  are  strikingly  conformable  in  their 
structure  and  composition,  and  their  characters  agree,  broadly  speaking,  with 
the  descriptions  already  given  by  those  writers  who  have  occupied  themselves 
with  the  crystalline  formations  of  South  and  Central  Africa,  thus  further 
showing  the  prevailing  uniformity  in  the  constituticjn  of  the  extensive  archaean 
plateau. 

In  the  first  archtvan  zone,  that  is,  between  the  shores  of  the  lake  and  the 
overlying  primitive  formations  near  Mitiana,  the  mica-schists  seem  to  prevail, 
these  being  associated  with  gneiss  and  thick  quartzite  beds.  The  mica  of  the 
micaceous  schists  is  the  muscwite  variety,  which  occurs  in  large  laminse,  thus 
forming  rocks  of  a  very  marked  schistose  type,  Init  always  highly  reddened,  and 
often  somewhat  disintegrated  by  aerial  denudation. 

^Mien  we  pass  beyond  the  palaeozoic  and  thus  re-enter  the  archjean  zone, 
we  find  the  region  1:»etween  Kasiba  and  Muyongo  constituted  entirely  of  a  lar(j(>- 
grained  granite,  which  appears  to  form  a  range  running  about  south  to  north. 
In  this  granite  are  noticed  hydiomorphic  forms  oi  felspar,  which  in  their  greatest 
development  reach  two  inches  and  more.  In  the  granular  mass  of  the  rock 
quartz  abounds,  while  the  biotite  mica  is,  as  a  rule,  relatively  scarce.  Throughout 
the  whole  region  the  granite  is  always  profoundly  metamorphized,  a  fact  which 
contrasts  with  the  relatively  fresh  aspect  of  the  rock  in  the  granitic  outcrops  of 
the  palaeozoic  zone. 

At  Muyongo  the  mica-schists  again  become  associated  with  gneiss,  the 
latter  predominating.  Such  association,  always  accompanied  by  quartzite  Jieds, 
and  in  places  by  minnfe  biotite  mica-scliists,  and  by  talc-schists,  is  continued  right 
up  into  the  Kuwenzori  Range,  into  the  constituents  of  which  it  largely  enters. 

The  gneiss  is  of  a  schistose  character  which  is  never  very  distinct,  hence  is 
to  be  considered  as  a  granitic  gneiss,  the  micaceous  element  of  which  is  biotite, 
and  presents  an  always  more  or  less  pronounced  kataclastic  structure.  Charac- 
teristic of  this  rock  are  everywhere  the  really  considerable  abundance  of  the 
ferruginous  minerals,  such  as  magnetite,  ilmeaite,  and  hematite  (the  changes  of 
which  explain  the  frequent  reddish  surface  of  gneiss),  and  the  constant  presence 
of  microcline,  which  becomes  the  prevailing,  one  may  even  say  often  the 
exclusive,  felspar  variety  in  this  rock.  This  indeed  is  a  fact  which  has  already 
been  recorded  in  other  parts  of  Central  and  South  Africa. 

In  the  neighbourhood  of  Ruwenzori  biotite  gneiss,  either  normal  or  with 
a  predominance  of  microcline,  is  partly  replaced  by  amphibolic  gneisses.  In 
several  districts,  but  especially  in  the  granitic  range  between  Kasiba  and 
Muyongo,  are  noticed  outcrops  of  pegmatite  and  micro-granite  ;  here  the 
pegmatite  has  never  the  coarse-grained  structure  comparable  to  that  of  granite, 

383 


Appendix   C. 

although  some  specimens  present  a  typical  graphic  association  of  quartz  with 
mierocline. 

In  the  Lwamutukuza,  Muyongo  ami  Fort  Portal  districts  I  noticed  in  the 
gneiss-granitic  formation  considerable  intrusions  of  diabase  rocks  of  granular  and 
sometimes  coarse-grained  structure.  The  specimens  collected  hy  us  ncA^er 
contain  olivine,  nor  even  the  chloritic  green  pigment  so  common  in  the  rocks 
of  this  tj'pe  in  our  lands  ;  characteristic  is  always  the  abundance  of  ilmenite,  as 
also  the  basic  felspar  often  referable  to  anoiiJtite. 

Thanks  to  the  metamorphosis  of  the  pyroxenes  in  amphiboles,  which  may 
be  easil}'  followed  in  its  various  transitions,  some  of  these  diabases  pass  over  to 
epidiorite ;  true  diorite  I  did  not  come  across  in  situ,  1)ut  believe  that  it  occurs  in 
the  Kaibo-Butiti  district.  Conspicuous  also,  bet\\een  Fort  Portal  and  Duwona, 
is  a  thick  bed  of  overlying  lii/per.^fhf'ne  rjahhro  of  coarse  structure. 

PaUeozoic. — The  formations  which  represent  the  Palaeozoic  Age  follow  for 
about  50  miles  between  Mitiana  and  Kasiba.  Their  eastern  limit  did  not  appear  to 
be  very  clearly  marked,  whereas  the  western  is  distinctly  defined  by  the  granitic 
range  which  I  have  descriljed  as  extending  from  Kasiba  to  Muyongo.  It  is  in 
fact  against  these  very  escarpments  that  the  paheozoic  formations  are  inclined. 

The  rocks  met  in  the  district  are  sandstones,  arkoses,  qiiartzites,  quarfzite 
hrecdas  and  various  schisfs,  micacL'OUs  or  taJ co-micaceous.  All  these  rocks,  whose 
clastic  and  metamorphic  origin  is  readily  recognized  in  the  petrographic 
laboratory,  are  for  the  most  part  coloured  a  deep  red,  and  correspond  perfectly 
to  the  rocks  referred  to  the  Palaeozoic  Age,  as  described  by  observers  in  other 
parts  of  Uganda,  as  well  as  in  Congoland  and  South  Africa. 

An  exact  determination  of  age  is  too  often  prevented  liy  a  total  lack  of 
fossils.  I  think,  however,  that  it  may  be  useful  to  point  out  how  some  of  the 
schists  met  l)y  me  greatly  resemble  analogous  formations  of  the  Permian 
Epoch  in  the  Alps,  and  how,  as  we  proceed  Avestwards,  the  series  seem  dis- 
tinctly to  pass  from  the  sandstones  to  the  schists,  thus  suggesting  a  steady 
increase  of  metamorphism  in  that  direction. 

Recent  for inations. — These  are  represented  by  the  concretionary  Umonite  (the 
ironstone  of  English  writers),  and  liy  Jaterife. 

The  concrefionari/  lioionile  is  one  of  the  characteristic  formations  of  the 
Lake  Victoria  region. 

Already  on  the  east  shore,  and  then  in  a  typical  manner  on  the  west,  in 
the  Entebbe  district  and  beyond  it,  we  may  say  as  far  as  the  Kasiba-Muyongo 
granitic  zone,  the  ground  is  covered  with  a  concretionary  limestone,  at  times 
pisulitic  (pea-like)  or  vacuolated,  always  very  compact,  colour  shifting  from  a 
bright  red  to  a  biownish-yellow  oi-  daik  biown. 

384 


Summary  of  Geological  Observations. 

It  supplies  tlu'  liuildiii^-  luati'iial  adopted  for  the  sti'uctures  of  iMiropeaii 
type  at  Eute1>l)e.  Mitiaua,  and  other  places.  Its  cheniieal  coiupositiou  is  very 
constant,  containing  a  percentage  of  Fe  2O.5,  which  varies  from  51  to  55  per 
cent.  ;  hence  it  diti'ers  from  that  of  the  limonite  nodules,  which  are  found 
in  laterite,  in  which  the  percentage  of  Fe  2O3  may  be  as  high  as  82  per  cent. 
In  this  region  the  limonite  forms  several  rising  grounds,  some  over  300  feet 
above  the  present  level  of  the  lake.  As  to  its  origin,  I  believe  it  was  deposited 
in  the  bed  of  the  lake,  at  a  time  when  it  was  far  more  extensive  than  at  present, 
as  is  evident  from  a  whole  series  of  indisputable  facts,  the  decomposition  being 
effected  by  a  mechanical  process  analogous  to  that  which  in  lacustrine  basins 
originates  the  limonite  (bog  ore)  of  marshy  places. 

Hence,  in  my  opinion,  the  concretionary  limonite  may  be  of  great 
importance,  as  serving  to  indicate  the  former  limits  reached  by  Lake  Victoria, 
of  which  even  Lake  Isolt,  near  Bujongo,  may  be  merely  a  remnant.  Similarly 
the  few  patches  of  concretionary  limonite  met  in  the  Butiti  district  may  possibly 
represent  old  extensions  of  Lake  Albert.  In  the  limonite  are  emltedded 
numerous  stony  fragments  and  nodules  varying  greatly  in  size.  This  detrita! 
material  is  for  the  most  part  represented  by  cjuartz,  hyaline  (glassy),  granular, 
or  jasproid.  I  rarely  noticed  nodules  or  fragments  of  gneiss,  or  of  pala?ozic 
rocks.  So  great  at  times  is  the  abinidance  of  quartzose  nodules  or  fragments 
as  to  give  rise  either  to  conglomerates  or  else  to  breccias  with  limonitic  cement, 
as  the  case  may  be. 

The  scenery  of  the  limonite  region  is  typical  in  the  form  of  its  rising 
grounds.  These  do  not  present  rounded  contours,  such  as  are  normally- 
observed  in  other  parts  of  L^ganda,  1;)ut  constitute  elongated  hills  with  levelled 
summits,  divided  one  from  another  by  deep  fissures,  or  else  they  stand  isolated 
on  the  plain,  representing  the  remains  of  what  at  other  times  must  have  been 
the  unbroken  surface  of  the  ground.  In  this  respect  the  Enteb1)e  and  ^litiana 
districts  are  characteristic. 

The  laterite  resulting  from  the  transformation  of  the  felspar  rocks,  under 
the  action  of  the  atmospheric  agencies,  aided  by  the  high  temperature  and  by 
the  alternating  droughts  and  heavy  rains,  may  be  said  to  form  the  surface  layer 
of  the  groimd  throughout  this  region.  It  is  found  not  only  in  the  gneiss  and 
granite  zones,  but  also  where  the  palaeozoic  occurs  and  forms  on  the  rocks 
in  situ  a  covering  of  various  thickness,  which  may  in  places  acquire  quite  an 
exceptional  development.  Characteristic  is  always  the  iinier  red  colour,  which 
is  due  to  the  excessive  oxidation  of  the  numerous  iron  ores  that  we  have  seen  to 
be  present  in  those  rocks. 

In  the  laterite  is  often  noticed  an  altundant  miraceous  hematite,  which  in 

385  2  C 


Appendix  C. 

some  places  is  Hceuinulated  1)v  the  rain  waters  iu  depressions  of  the  ground. 
Common  also  at  varying  deptlis  are  great  ])eds  of  Uriwniie,  which  in  some  places, 
as  at  Butiti,  are  accompanied  b}^  oxulcs  of  imivjancsc. 

This  limonite  is  mined  by  the  natives,  who,  ])y  the  Catalonian  process, 
extract  from  it  the  iron  which  they  use  in  the  manufacture  of  arms  and 
implements,  an  industry  in  which  they  display  much  skill. 

riu/sira!  Features. — Owing  to  the  a1)undant  herbaceous  vegetation,  and  to 
the  thick  deposits  of  latL'rito  and  concretionary  limonite,  which  everywhere 
cover  the  groiuid,  I  was  unable  to  make  anv  conclusive  stratigraphic  observa- 
tions. Nevertheless,  from  the  data  which  we  collected  it  seems  cpiite  evident 
that  there  must  be  a  considerable  discordance  lietween  the  archsean  and  palneozoic 
formations. 

Erosion. — Amongst  the  phenomena  of  erosion,  which,  as  may  be  easily 
understood,  are  very  marked,  mention  should  he  made  of  the  denudation,  thanks 
to  which  the  older  rocks,  being  deprived  of  their  laterite  covering,  become 
exposed  on  the  surface  of  the  ground.  They  usually  assume  the  characteristic 
aspect  of  mammiform  or  hummocky  rocks,  the  so-called  roclies  moutonnees  of  the 
French,  which  so  strangely  resemble  the  glacial  features  of  our  lands.  The  fact 
is  explained  by  the  absence  of  the  factor  of  frost  and  thaw,  in  consequence  of 
which  the  rocks,  instead  of  becoming  disintegrated,  suffer  only  a  surface  change 
and  rupture,  the  rubbly  fragments  of  which  get  constantly  displaced  and  washed 
away  by  the  rain  waters. 

Outwardly  the  rocks  often  present  a  crust  of  varying  thickness,  which  is 
due  to  metamorphism,  and  this  crust  adheres  in  the  loosest  way  to  the  under- 
Ivint'  mass.  Not  seldom  the  adherence  fails  altogether,  and  then  the  transformed 
surface  forms  slabs  with  rounded  edges  merely  resting  on  the  underlying  rock, 
which  is  still  relatively  intact. 

This  phenomenon  is  seen  whei'c  the  gneisses  crop  out.  In  the  case  of 
c^ranites  there  is  further  noticed  a  cleavage  of  the  rock  in  great  blocks  of 
parallelopiped  form  which,  presenting  greater  resistance  to  decomposition,  end 
by  being  at  last  completely  isolated  and  detached.  In  the  vicinity  of  ]\Juyongo 
hundreds  of  such  masses  occur  in  the  form  of  pi-isms,  cubes  and  obelisks,  at 
times  of  remarkably  regular  outline. 

Another  consequence  of  this  })redominantly  superficial  disintegration  is 
a  peculiar  ruggedness  which  is  presented  by  the  surface  of  the  rocks,  and  is  due 
to  the  protruding  quartz  that  resists  the  decomposing  forces,  while  the  felspar 
part  is  broken  up  and  carried  away  by  the  water.  In  the  zone  of  the  coarse- 
grained granite  this  protrusion  on  the  surface  is  noticed  even  in  the  case  of  the 
largely  hydiomoiphie  crystals  (^f  felspar. 

386 


1 


Sammarv  of  (rcological  Observations. 

In  some  districts,  us  at  Kaibo  ami  in  the  ueiglilnnulKJod  of  Fort  I'ortal,  are 
found  isolated  masses,  or  accumulations  of  masses,  on  the  summits  or  the  flanks 
of  hilly  elevations  consisting  of  laterite.  In  the  specified  districts  these  masses 
consist  of  dialiase,  and  we  may  take  it  that  their  presence  is  due  to  the  resistance 
of  certain  rocks,  perhaps  oi-iginally  in  the  form  of  dikes,  and  to  the  metamorphism 
which  reiluced  to  laterite  the  gneiss  or  granite  in  which  they  were  embedded. 
In  some  places  it  is  not  improbable  that  it  may  be  a  ([uestion  of  some  kind  of 
transport. 

Vidcanism. — Kecent  igneous  formations  are  met  at  the  eastern  ff)()t  of 
Ruwenzori.  Here  they  serve  to  indicate  the  presence  of  one  or  more  lines  of 
fracture  in  relation  with  that  great  Rift  Valley  with  which  originated  the 
depression  comprising  Lakes  Tanganika,  Kivu,  All)ert  Edward,  Albert,  and  the 
Semliki  Valley,  and  which  contrilnited  to  the  isolation  of  the  Kuwenzori  Range. 
In  the  Fort  Portal  district  volcanic  action  is  indicated  by  thermal  springs 
(Butanuka),  and  by  stratified  tuff  which  cover  the  ground  and  form  a  series  of 
little  volcanoes,  whose  craters  are  now  mostly  flooded  with  tarns.  They  form  a 
chain  which  is  disposed  very  nearly  in  the  direction  from  south  to  north. 

The  tuffs  of  this  formation  are  partly  compact  and  partly  of  loose  structure. 
All,  however,  are  of  subaqueous  origin,  and  thus  attest  the  greater  extension  in 
former  times  occupied  l)y  Lake  Albert  Edward,  which  must  proltably  have  been 
united  with  Lake  Albert  towards  the  north. 

The  compact  tuffs  are  of  a  dark  hue,  and  very  hard,  and  yield  a  cement 
consisting  of  a  basic  silicate  rich  in  iron  and  easily  decomposed  by  acids.  Such 
tuffs  occur  in  all  the  craters  of  the  series,  only  more  or  less  transformed,  the 
change  consisting  in  a  tendency  to  acquire  a  red  colour  due  to  the  decomposi- 
tion of  the  silicate  of  iron. 

The  tuffs  of  looser  structure,  which  are  met  partly  in  the  craters  and  in  all 
the  surface  formations,  are  of  a  colour  passing  from  white  to  grey.  They  derive 
principally  from  fragments  of  the  compact  tuff  cemented  by  calcite  after  the 
complete  discoloration  caused  by  the  metaraorphic  process.  The  enclosed  exotic 
fragments  are  numerous,  especially  in  the  non-compact  variet}^  and  they 
consist  of  fragments  of  the  most  diverse  sizes,  whether  water-borne  or  not. 
These  ingredients  may  for  the  most  part  be  considered  as  coming  from  rocks  of 
the  Ruwenzori'  Range,  such  as  gneisses,  diabases,  diorites,  garnet-bearing  rocks, 
amphibolites,  etc.  In  the  hill  at  Fort  Portal  the  tuffs  are,  moreover,  rich  in 
vegetable  remiiins  which,  unfortunately,  cannot  now  l)e  determined.  In  the 
Butiti — Fort  Portal  region,  mineral  springs  are  also  muuerous,  and  the  countiy 
is  sultject  to  frequent  eaithquakes. 

387  ^  t-  2 


Appendix  C. 


I1._RUWENZ(  )1U    RANGE. 

Lifholot./ical  Con^^iifitfion. — The  Kuwenzori  Kange,  as  already  pointed  out  by 
Scott  Elliot,  is  regarded  as  a  part  of  the  archseau  formation  of  Equatorial 
Africa  which  has  1)eeii  upheaved  through  phenomena  of  dislocation.  In  fact, 
it  is  fomid  to  1)0  essentially  constituted  of  various  i/ncixftes  and  inira-f!chi'<fi<  in 
which  must  have  been  originally  emiiedded  the  i/ir&mfones  which,  after  being 
exposed  1)y  the  phenomena  of  denudation,  to  which  they  offered  the  greatest 
resistance,  now  form  the  loftiest  crests  of  the  whole  range.  Ascending  the 
valley  of  the  Mobuku,  we  meet  with  a  regular  succession  of  rocks,  in  which 
first  occur  the  f/zic/.s^w  whose  correspondence  Avith  the  analogous  rocks  of 
T^ganda  is  oljvious. 

Amongst  these  gneisses  the  dominant  variety  appears  to  be  the  hiofiff  and 
mkrodine  of  the  Fort  Portal  district.  With  it  are  associated  inirac.eom- 
ainphibolitics  and  amphibolitic  varieties  in  which  the  amphibole  is  represented 
by  hoi'nhlende.  In  the  amphibolic  gneisses,  however,  the  microcline  is  rare  or 
absent,  being  displaced,  besides  orthoclaxc,  by  an  abundance  of  phKjiodme 
referable  to  andesife. 

The  katadasfic  structure  still  continues  together  with  frecpient  metallic 
ores,  such  as  liniKitHi',  uKUjiicfifc,  iliiiriiif>',  and  diromifc,  some  varieties  being 
rich  in   funrnialinc  and   (/uniff. 

The  gneisses  range  up  to  al)Out  11, GOO  feet  in  association  with  iiiira-.^dtisfs, 
the  first  type,  however,  being  always  dominant.  (Juurt.tifcs  also  abound  lioth 
in  thick  beds  and  nodules. 

Above  11,600  feet  the  gneisses  disappear,  the  vdm-sdtists  alone  ])ersisting, 
associated  with  quartzite>^,  and  following  without  break  up  to  the  zone  of  the 
greenstones. 

The  rnica-schists  of  the  Mo])uku  Valley  are  of  two  kinds,  which  constantly 
recur  :  iinnntc  aud  fdiareoKs  (lanidlar). 

The  first  are  formed  of  minute  iitusanite  laruina',  with  abundant  quartz,  and 
next  to  it  felspar,  mostly  andcsile ;  in  these  the  schistosity  is  not  always  evident, 
while  their  compactness  and  hardness  are  very  great. 

In  the  foliaceous  kind  muscovite  prevails  in  large  white  siheiy  lamiiue, 
with  which  is  associated  a  little  minute  hiotiie,  while  quartz  and  felspar  become 
rare.     In  this  second  variety  the  schistosity  and  the  cleavage  are  clearly  seen. 

The  two  mica-schist  types  form  beds  of  varying  thickness,  either  standing 
quite  apart  or  else  passing  gradually  into  one  another.     They  are  always  and 

388 


Summarv  of  Geolooical  Observations. 


&' 


everywhere  rich  in  toiiniuilinc  .-md  nirfnjlic  ores,  ilnienifr,  r/imuiifr,  liniinlilr  and 
iiUKjnditc.  In  some  phices  (jdnii't  and  ((jHifitc  nre  also  noticed,  while  in  the 
schistose  surfaces  fine  fibrous  aggregates  of  cijanite  and  ■<ilHiimmte  are  common. 

On  the  Kichuchu  Phiin,  besides  the  existence  of  a  lahradoriie  f/neis.-i,  the 
presence  is  conspicuous  of  some  dikes  of  hamJt,  which  raniif}'  and  intersect 
the  gneiss-mica-schist  formation.  This  basalt,  wliich  constitutes  the  only 
evidence  of  recent  volcanic  action  met  by  us  in  the  range,  is  mici'ocrystalline 
and  of  holocrystalline  type.  On  the  Biamba  Plain  I  further  met  a  diahisc  in 
which  the  opacpie  element  is  represented  by  chwiiiitc  alone. 

Towards  12,000  feet  the  zone  of  the  mica-schists  disappears,  and  the 
greenstones  come  to  the  surface ;  these  constitute  exclusively  Mts.  Baker  and 
Stanley,  and  are  associated  with  gneiss  on  the  other  heights  visited  by  the 
expedition.  On  the  western  slope  of  Mt.  Baker  the  identical  mica-schists 
reappear,  which  we  had  met  in  the  Mobuku  Valley,  but  on  the  west  side  they 
range  somewhat  higher  than  on  the  east. 

The  zone  of  the  greenstones  is  constituted  essentially  of  an  (unphilinllfr 
schist,  in  which  the  schistose  element  is  more  or  less  evident ;  it  is  usually  micro- 
crystalline  and  formed  of  hovnhlendc  with  quartz,  and  in  the  second  place  felspar 
(mostly  andesite),  and  in  this  case  it  passes  over  to  a  (liorife  schist.  From  this 
amphibolic  schist  are  developed  some  varieties  due  to  the  substitution  of 
actinolite  for  hornblende,  or  else  to  its  association  with  garnet,  hiotife  and  pyroxene. 

Abundant  in  these  rocks  are  ihnenite  and  epidote,  the  latter  also  forming 
numerous  beds,  veins  and  nodules,  some  of  which  are  of  extraordinary  thickness, 
as  much  as  30  feet  in  the  longer  axis.  Moreover,  numerous  beds  of  quartzite 
everywhere  accompany  the  amphibolic  schists,  with  which  in  the  various 
mountains  are  associated  other  rocks  in  the  following  way : — 

Mt.  Baker. — Quartziferous  diorite ;  compact  amphibolite  which  forms  the 
Edward  Peak,  on  the  summit  of  which  are  numerous  fulgurites ;  crystalliite 
limestone ;  chlorite  schist,  epidosyte,  grenatite  ;  diabase. 

At  several  points  on  this  mountain  are  noticed  some  lenticels,  geodes  and 
small  veins  of  pyrites,  ralco-pyrites  and  ilmenite,  with  felspars,  ipiartz  and  calcite ; 
on  AVollaston  Peak  a  small  vein  of  galena  with  a  gangue  of  calcite  crops  out. 

Mt.  Stanley. — Compact  amphil/olite ;  amphUioUc  schist  with  large  garnets, 
diarite  and  laJiradurite  diorite  which  forms  the  Alexandra  I'eak,  and  probably 
also  the  Margherita ;  it  is  noted  for  its  various  types  of  falgurites,  epii/nsitrs  and 
diabase. 

On  this  mountain  also  pyrite  and  especially  ilmenite  are  plentiful,  as  are 
also  copper  ores  :  cJmlco-pyrite  tetrahedrites,  malachite. 

Mt.  Luigi  di  Savoia. — Here  also  amphi])olic  schist  crops  out.  idthougii 

389 


Appendix  C. 

the  mountain  is  essentially  constituted  of  gneiss,  the  liiofife  variety  and  hiicrocUne 
l)eing  common  on  the  lower  parts  of  the  mountain.  This  gneiss,  associated 
with  i/iica-fsrJu.'^ts,  may  lie  traced  from  Ibanda  by  the  Mahoma  Valley,  not  only 
up  to  the  crests  of  the  mountain,  hut  probal)ly  also  extends  to  the  south  and 
west  of  the  range. 

It  should  be  mentioned  that  in  Mt.  Luigi  di  Savoia  there  are  large  dikes  of 
macroscopic  pct/nxifife  rich  in  i/arnc/  and  /miniKiIiiie,  haplite  and  micro-granite  in 
the  neighljourhood  of  Stairs  Peak;  i/inbusr,  which  crojis  out  at  Sella  Peak,  where 
it  abounds  in  fulgurites  ;  dioritc,  ('pidosi//e  and  crystalline  chalk,  which  seems  to 
point  at  contact  between  the  gneisses  and  the  amphibolic  schists. 

^It.  Speke. — The  prevailing  rt^k  appears  to  be  a  granitoid  gneiss  with 
biotite  and  abundant  epidote  :  with  the  gneiss  would  appear  to  be  associated 
diorite,  amphiboJite  and  micro-granite. 

Mt.  Emin.— Yields  quartzitc  and  a  diorifc  analogous  to  that  of  Mt.  Stanley. 

Mt.  Gessi. — The  dominant  rock  again  appears  to  be  aiiipItihoUr  schist  in 
association  with  ([uartzifc  and  epidosi/fe. 

In  the  Bujuku  Valley  the  prevalent  form  appears  to  be  of  a  type  analogous 
to  that  occurring  on  Mt.  Speke.  This  valley,  as  well  as  that  of  the  Mubuku, 
would  seem  in  its  upper  reaches  to  open  out  in  contact  with  gneiss  and 
amphil)olic  rocks. 

Tectonic  Sfrudiiir. — The  tectonic  feature  by  which  the  Kuwenzori  Massif  is 
outlined  and  clcai-ly  characterized  is  represented  by  two  great  zones  of  fracture. 
One  lying  to  the  west  is  of  vast  size,  having  given  rise  to  the  Semliki  Valley, 
and  in  this  direction  completely  isolated  the  enormous  mass  of  the  Puwenzori 
Kange.  The  other  (eastei'u)  zone  of  fracture  is  less  marked,  but  well  outlined 
l)y  the  volcanic  formations,  in  which  are  included  those  of  Fort  Portal. 

In  relation  with  the  two  main  zones  of  fracture,  others  occur  in  the  interior 
of  the  range,  and  these  are  disposed  in  two  difierent  directions,  one  west  and 
east — that  is  to  say,  normal  to  the  chief  trends — the  other,  on  the  contrary, 
running  in  parallel  lines  from  south  to  north.  To  these  lines  of  inner  fracture 
are  due  several  valleys  and  many  of  the  secondary  glens,  which  tend  to  give 
their  characteristic  isolation  to  all  the  ])iiii(ipal  heights. 

The  stratigraphic  (lis])osition  is  regular.  As  we  ascend  the  Mobuku 
Valley,  we  everywhere  notice  in  the  gneiss  and  mica-schist  beds  an  incline  from 
east  to  south-east.  This  incline  is,  on  the  whole,  maintained  in  Mt.  Baker, 
and  is  clearly  seen,  for  instance,  in  Cagni  Peak.  In  Mt.  Luigi  di  Savoia  the 
east-south-east  slope  recurs,  with  a  tendency  to  the  south  which  farther  on 
becomes  due  south.  Jn  Mt.  Staidey  the  south-east  tends  to  change  to  west 
or  north-west,  although  the  south-east  to  east  incline  re;i})pears  in   the  Bujuku 

390 


Summaiy  of  Geological  Observations. 

Valley.  Moreover,  the  slopes  of  the  strata  are  everywhere  very  steep,  in  i)laees 
as  much  as  and  upwai'ds  of  60". 

TJuwenzori  must  accordingly  l>e  regarded  as  resulting  from  an  anticlinal  or 
ellipsoidic  upheaval,  with  a  slope  to  the  west  on  the  west  side,  to  the  east  on 
the  east  side,  passing  to  the  south  on  the  south  side,  and  prohahly  to  the  north 
on  the  north  side. 

The  presence  of  this  ellipsoidic  upheaval,  comliined  with  the  phenomenon 
of  the  great  fractures  above  mentioned,  and  with  the  existence  in  the  central 
parts  of  rocks  resisting  subaerial  disintegration,  would  explain  the  origin  of  the 
Ruwenzori  Range  and  of  its  lofty  sunnnits. 

OJil  (rlacidtim. — A  phenomenon  of  great  importance  is  the  vast  development 
of  the  glaciers  of  the  Ruwenzori  Range  during  the  glacial  period. 

The  valleys  of  the  Mobuku,  the  Bujuku,  and  the  Mahoma  were  filled  b}'' 
the  glaciers  which  descended  from  the  chief  mountains.  These  uniting  in  a 
single  ice-stream  of  great  size,  and  filling  up  the  Lower  Mobuku  Valley,  must 
have  easily  extended  as  far  as  the  plain  of  Ibanda. 

Proofs  of  this  early  glacial  expansion  are  afforded  l)y  the  numerous  large 
erratic  blocks  ;  by  the  old  moraines  which  occupy  the  Mobuku  Valley  from 
Bihunga  to  Kichuchu,  and  al)Ove  which  rises  the  Nakitawa  Plain;  lastly,  by  the 
rolled  and  sti-iated  rocks  which  are  so  common  on  the  higher  parts  of  the 
mountain.  Regarding  the  Nakitawa  moraine,  it  may  be  mentioned  that  the 
lake  lying  south-west  of  that  district,  and  by  the  observers  generally  considered 
as  volcanic,  is,  on  the  contrary,  inter-morainic. 

Disregarding  the  erratic  boulders  which  occur  on  the  plain  of  Ibanda,  and 
are  not  perhaps  due  to  direct  glacial  transportation,  the  first  undoubted  proofs 
of  old  glaciation  were  met  by  me  near  the  ascent  of  Bihunga,  that  is,  at  about 
4,500  feet,  whereas  at  present  the  glaciers  do  not  descend  lower  than  about 
12,600  feet. 

On  the  western  slope,  too,  the  traces  are  evident  of  the  passage  of  the  old 
glaciers  with  scratched  and  rounded  blocks  and  morainic  formations.  We  were, 
however,  unable  to  discover  how  far  they  had  ranged  on  that  side,  as  we  did 
not  advance  very  far  in  that  direction. 

Recent  Glaciation. — The  Ruwenzori  glaciers  are  referred  to  the  so-called 
equatorial  type  ;  that  is  to  say,  they  form  ice-caps  which  are  at  times  of  great 
thickness,  and  more  or  less  completely  cover  the  summits  of  the  mountains. 
From  these  ice-caps  branches  ramify  downwards  and  advance  into  the  ravines, 
but  seldom  range,  and  then  only  a  little  way,  l>eyond  the  lower  level  of 
the  perennial  snows,  which  here  lies  between  13,350  and  13,500  feet. 

The  position  of  the  glaciers  once  determined,  the  lateral  nioiaiucs  may  be 

391 


Appendix  C. 

neglected;  nor  du  the  underlying  ones  appear  to  have  any  great  developments, 
judging  at  least  from  the  frontal  moraines,  which  are  never  very  extensive. 

The  position  of  the  glaciers  likewise  includes  the  existence  of  depressions 
in  which  snow  might  l)e  collected  ;  falling  on  the  whole  surface  of  the  glacier, 
the  snow  passes  directly  and  lajjidly  to  the  state  of  ice,  a  phenomenon  which 
is  easily  explained  by  the  atmospheric  conditions  of  these  highlands,  which, 
during  certain  hours  of  the  day  often  tend  to  develop  high  temperatures. 

One  of  the  characteristics  of  the  Ruwenzori  glaciers  is  the  presence  of 
enormous  cornices  from  which  hang  multitudes  of  large  stalactites,  which 
])ecome  a  firm  support  to  the  cornices  themselves.  The  origin  of  these  curious 
stalactites  is  again  to  be  sought  in  the  special  meteorological  conditions,  which 
tend  to  rapid  changes  of  temperature  not  only  between  day  and  night,  but  also 
at  different  times  of  the  day  itself,  according  to  the  state  of  the  weather. 

Another  noteworthy  feature  is  the  water  welling  up  in  front  of  the 
glaciers,  which  never  presents  that  turliid  look  which,  under  like  conditions, 
is  seen  in  the  melting  waters  of  the  Alpine  glaciers.  The  water  is  perfectly 
limpid,  which  shows  that  the  moA^ement  of  the  glaciers  is  but  slight,  at  least 
at  present.  Hence  the  erosion  mi;st  also  be  insignificant,  and  this  again 
explains  the  absence  of  considerable  underlying  moraines. 

In  fact,  all  the  liuwenzori  glaciers  are  nowadays  in  a  state  of  rapid 
retreat.  Of  this  proof  is  afforded  in  the  recently  al»andoned  morainic 
foi'mations  which  are  noticed  in  many  places  :  in  the  wide  areas  of  polished 
rocks  at  the  sides  and  in  front  of  the  glaciers ;  in  a  zone  not  yet  invaded 
by  the  mosses  and  lichens,  which  are  typically  abundant  even  on  the  most 
elevated  tracts  of  the  range;  lastly,  in  the  whitish  colour  so  often  noticed 
on  the  surface  of  those  rocks  which  have  only  recently  got  rid  of  the  mantle 
of  snow  and  ice  by  which  they  were  formerly  covered. 

Erosive  Phenomena. — On  the  lower  part  of  the  Kuwenzori  Kange  identic^d 
climatic  conditions  lead  to  the  identical  phenomena  of  meteoric  tlenudation 
that  are  also  observed  in  Uganda.  AVe  have  accordingly  an  abundant  lafi'rifc 
foi'mation  on  which  a  lank  herbaceous  vegetation  is  developed  ;  here  also  is 
that  rounded  form  of  the  exposed  rocks  with  their  sham  aspect  of  ruches 
vioutonnees  above  indicated ;  further,  the  outward  protrusion  of  some  of  the  more 
durable  components;  the  cleavage  of  the  rock  in  superficial  slabs,  and  so  on. 

The  zone  of  the  old  morainic  formations  is  clothed  with  a  dense  arboreal  or 
bushy  vegetation  of  tropical  type,  and  this  protects  the  underlying  soil  from 
erosive  action.  Here  and  theie,  however,  aie  noticed  rents  and  rifts  caused  l)y 
the  torrential  and  swelling  waters,  with  formations  in  some  places  of  typical 
fungi-form  rocks,  as  near  Nakitawa. 

392 


Summarv  of  Geolooncal  Observations. 

Towards  9,000  feet  the  persistently  humid  climate  gives  rise  to  the  zone 
of  the  cryptogams,  and  to  the  l)Ogs  that  constitute  one  of  the  characteristic 
features  of  Kuwenzori.  From  this  altitude,  we  may  sa}'  right  np  to  the 
glaciers,  the  ground  is  everywhere  uninterruptedly  covered  with  a  boggy  peat- 
turf  layer  which  not  seldom  reaches  or  exceeds  a  thickness  of  I'O  inches.  On 
this  substratum  is  developed  a  vigorous  vegetation  of  mosses,  hepatica^ 
(liverworts)  and  lichens,  which  spread  a  thick  mantle  over  the  protruding 
rocks,  the  erratic  boulders  and  the  trunks  of  the  trees,  whether  living  or  fallen 
with  age,  and  for  centuries  accumulating  on  the  surface  of  the  ground. 

Over  this  overlying  stratum  of  bog  and  vegetable  detritus  there  is  but 
a  slight  flow  of  water,  absorbed  as  it  is  as  by  a  huge  sponge.  The  surface 
layer  thus  forms  a  protecting  carpet  for  the  rocks  which,  when  they  can  be 
seen  underneath,  appear  to  Tie  relatively  intact,  escaping  as  they  do  in  great 
measure  from  the  erosive  phenomena. 

Beyond  the  boggy  zone  the  surface  action  of  the  meteoric  agents  comes 
again  into  play,  but  it  must  act  very  slowly  in  consequence  of  the  abundant 
vegetation  of  the  crustaceous  lichens  covering  the  rocks.  The  nature  of  these 
rocks,  largel}^  constituted  of  amphibole  and  quartz,  also  explains  the  slighter 
action  of  atmospheric  deiiuilatimi  which  has  freer  play  in  the  gneiss  and 
mica-schist  zone. 

Attention  may  again  l)e  called  to  the  characteristic  protrusion  of  the  rocks 
composed  of  more  resisting  elements.  This  fact  is  apparent  in  the  beds  of 
garnet-1)earing  rocks,  where  the  large  crystals  of  garnet  protrude  with  an 
almost  variolar  or  pitted  aspect.  The  phenomenon  is  typical  also  in  the  mica- 
schist  zone  on  the  western  slope  of  Mt.  Baker,  where  the  mica-schist  is 
associated  with  abundant  quartz  in  lenticular  veins  and  thin  layers  which 
everywhere  form  protuljerances,  sometimes  even  very  conspicuous  on  the 
surface  of  the  ground. 

Lastly,  in  the  higher  zones  to  the  modifying  and  erosive  action  of  the 
atmosphere  is  added  the  extremely  potent  factor  of  frost  and  thaw.  In  this 
case,  wherever  the  underlying  rocks  are  not  protected  by  the  masses  of  ice,  we 
find  long  stretches  of  ground  covered  with  loose  chaotic  and  shifting  detritus 
analogous  to  what  is  noticed  on  the  crests  and  higher  slopes  of  our  Alpine 
heights. 


393 


Appendix   C. 


alphabp:tic  list  of  the  minerals  collected 
in  the  ruwenzoiii  range. 


Actinolite. 

Albite. 

Apatite. 

Cak'itc. 

Chalcopyrite. 

Chlorite. 

Chromite. 

Diopside. 

Epidote. 

Galena. 

Garnet. 


Ilmenite. 

Magnetite. 

Malachite. 

Microcline. 

Muscovite. 

Pyrite. 

Quartz. 

Tetrahcdrite. 

Tourmaline. 

Tremolite. 


ZOOLOGY. 

New  Genera,  Species,  and  Sub-.species  collected  by  the  Expedition 

OF    H.R.H.  THE   DUKK   OF   THE    AbRUZZL 

Mammals     ...     Nyctinomus  Aloysii  Sabaudite,  Fesfa. 

Felis  pardus  sub.  spec.  Ruwenzorii,  Camerano. 

Birds  ...     Antho,sco])u.s  Koccatii,  Sahwlori. 

Lagonosticta  Tganda',  Salradon. 
Bycani.stes  Aloysii,  Sdlmdori. 
Xylobucco  Aloysii,  Sidrtvlori. 

Reptiles        ...      Lygosoiua  Aloysii  8al)audia',  Peracca. 

Molluscs       . . .     P^iniea  Koccatii,  rollunmi. 
l^nnea  Sellse,  Pollonrra. 
Einiea  Camerani,  Pdlloiu'ni. 
p]nnea  Aloysii  Sal)audia',  I'olhnti'ra. 
Streptaxis  Cavallii,  PolloncrH. 
Urocyclus  zonatus,  Pnjidncra. 


394 


Zoological  List. 

Molluscs  Urocyclus  teimizonatus,  PoUonera. 

— contd.     Urocyclus  siibfascijitiis,  I'olloncra. 
Urocyclus  raripunctatus,  PoJlonrra. 
Atoxou  oi'uatum,  Polhincni. 
Atoxon  Cavallii,  I'oJhtnera. 
Dendroliniax  leprosus,  PoUanem. 
Microcyclus  modestus,  PuUonem. 
Microcyclus  incertus,  Pollonera. 
Trichotoxon  Roccatii,  Pollonera. 
Kirkia  nov.  gen.,  Pollonera. 
Helicariou  Aloysii  Sabaudise,  Pollonera. 
Yitriiia  Cagnii,  Pollonera. 
Vitriua  ibaudensis,  Pollonera. 
Martensia  entebbena,  Pollonera. 
Fruticicola  bujungolensis,  Pollonera. 
Fruticicola  Bihungse,  Pollonera. 
Buliminus  Aloysii  Sabaudi?e,  Pollonera. 
Limicolaria  tussiformis  var.  nov.  ugandensis,  Pollonera. 
Limicolaria  Roccatii,  Pollonera. 
Limicolaria  rectistrigata  var.  nov.  simplicissimus,  Pollonera,  and 

var.  nov.  simplex,  Pollonera. 
Limicolaria  pura,  Pollonera. 
Limicolaria  pura  var.  diluta,  Pollonera. 
Limicolaria  Cavallii,  Pollonera. 
Glessula  De-Albertisi,  Pollonera. 
Glessula  ferussacioides,  Pollonera. 
Homorus  olivaceus,  Pollonera. 
Subulina  Roccatii,  Pollonera. 
Subulina  Ruwenzorensis,  Pollonera. 
Subulina  Ruwenzorensis  var.  elongata,  Pollonera. 
Vaginula  Roccatii,  Pollonera. 


Beetles         ...     Hydaticus  Rochei,  Camerano. 
Cillseus  Cavallii,  Camerano. 
Cillaeus  Cagnii,  Camerano. 
Hydrophilus  Loanei,  Camerano. 
Lixus  Roccatii,  Camerano. 
Sipalus  Aloysii  Sabaudiae,  Camerano. 
Eumelosomus  Aloysii  Saliaudia',  Panfjella. 

395 


Appendix   C. 


Dermaptera. 


Orthoptera 


Myi-iapoda 


Crustacea 


Worms 


PygidicraiiH  livida,  llorcUi. 
Anisolaliis  coiiipressa,  BnrcUL 
Genolabis  ])ieea,  Horelli. 
Spoiigiphoi-a  Aloysii  Sabaiulia%  Borclli. 
Chsetospania  ugaiidaiia,  BorcUi. 
Opisthocosmiu  Roccatii,  BoreUi. 
Apterygida  Cagiiii,  BordJi. 
Apterygida  Cavallii,  Borclli. 
Ceratinoptera  portak'iisis,  (liijlin-To^. 
Hciuithyrsoeera  sal )auda,  (ji(/Uo-2\)s. 
Blatta  ugandaua,  (Ji'jlio-Tos. 
Pyrgophyma  nov.  gen.,  Gi<jlio-Tos. 
Pyrgophyma  sahaudum,  Gif/Jio-Tos. 
Euprepocneniis  il)andana,  Gif/Jio-Tos. 
Tylopsis  dul)ia,  Gii/Ho-Tos. 

Cryptops  Aloysii  Sahaudiw,  Silrcsfri 
Scaitigerella  Ruweuzorii,  Silvc^fii. 
Phoeodesmus  Aloysii  Sabaudiae,  Silvestri. 
Habrodesmus  Cagnii,  Silvestri. 
Julidesmus  Cavallii,  Siirt'stri. 
Seaptode.snms  Roccatii,  Silresfri. 
►Scaptodesmus  rugifer,  Silrcsfri. 
Compsodesmus  Sellse,  Silvestri. 
Tymbodesmus  insignitus,  Silvestri. 
Archispirostreptus  ibanda,  Silvestri. 
Archispirostreptus  virgator,  Silvestri. 
A I'cli ispi i( )st I'cpt us  I lakitawa,  Silvestri. 
Odoiitopyge  Aloysii  Saljaudia?,  Silvestri. 
Odontopyge  ^^'inspcaI'ei,  Silrestri. 
Odontop3'ge  Petigaxi,  Silvestri. 
Otloiitoyn'ge  Ollici'i,  Silrestri. 

Potamoii  Aloysii  Sabaudia',  Xohili. 
Synarmadilloides  nov.  gen.,  Xohili. 
Synarmadilloides  Roccatii,  Xohili. 

Dichogaster  Aloysii  Sabaudia'.  ('nt/in'tti. 
Dichogaster  Roccatii,  Cixjnetti. 
r)ich(jgaster  Cagnii,  Co;/netti. 
Dichogaster  excelsa,  Cof/netfi. 


39G 


Botanical   List. 

Worms  Difhogastcr  Duwoiii,  C'o</iirf/i. 

— ronfiL     Dichogastor  Sellse,  Coijnefti. 

Dichogaster  Kuwenzorii,  Cot/ncffi. 
Dichogastor  demoniaca,  Cof/neffi. 
Dichogaster  toroeiisis,  Co;/ni'ffi. 
Gordiodi'ihis  ni()l)uccaiius,  Cof/ncffi. 
Parevidrilus  pallidas,  Cognetti. 
Eminoscolex  Rochei,  Cogneffi. 
Eminoscolex  Nakitavae,  Cogneffi. 
Neumanniella  fequatorialis,  Cogneffi. 
Alma  Aloysii  Sabaudise,  Cogneffi. 

Nematoids  ...     Strongylus  minutoides,  Paroiut. 
Strongylus  Cavallii,  I'arona. 
Uncinaria  muridis,  Parona. 
Physaloptera  Aloysii  Saljaudise,  Farona. 
Physaloptera  Ruwenzorii,  Parona. 

Of  all  the  groups  of  animals  above-mentioned  the  expedition  collected  other 
already  known  species  ;  many  of  these  had  not  yet  been  recorded  in  the  Uganda 
and  Ruwenzori  regions.  Hence,  in  respect  of  the  distribution  of  animal  species 
also,  the  expedition  has  made  valuable  contributions  to  our  knowledge  of  the 
African  fauna. 


SUMMARY  OF  THE  PLANTS  COLLECTED  BY  THE 
EXPEDITION  OF  THE  DUKE  OF  THE  ABPUZZI 
ON  THE  PtUWENZOPJ  RANGE. 


Embryophyta  Siphonagama  (Auct.  E.  Chiovenda  et  F.  Cortesi). 

Species  collected     ...         ...     93. 

New  Species  ...          ...     18. 

Graminaceae     ...     1.  Andropogon  mobukensis,  Chiov. 

'1.  Deschampsia  ruwensorensis,  Cliiov. 

3.  Festuca  gelida,  Chior. 

4.  Oxytenanthera  1  iuwensoren.sis,  Cliioi'. 

397 


Appendix  C, 


Asteraceae 

. . .     5. 

6. 

7. 

8. 

9. 

10. 

11. 

iL'. 

Rosaceae 

...   13. 

14. 

15. 

Ru])iaceae 

..    16. 

Urticaceae 

..    17. 

Crassulaceae 

...   18. 

Helichrysum  Dmis  Aprutii,  Chiov 
Seiiecio  coreopsoides,  Chiov. 
Seiiecio  Pirottiv,  Chior. 
Seneeio  Mattirolii,  Chiov. 
Senecio  Ducis  Api'utii,  Chiov. 
Seiiecio  Koccutii,  Chiov. 
C.-inluus  blepharoleptis,  Chiov. 
Krlaiigea  squarrosula,  Chiov. 

Alcheiiiilla  Koccatii,  Corf. 
Alehemilla  Ducis  Aprutii,  Corf. 
Alcliemilla  tridentata,  Corf. 

Kubia  ruwenzoreiisis,  Corf. 

Parietaria  ruweuzoransis,  Corf. 

Seduni  Dueis  Aprutii,  Corf. 


Pteridophyta  (Auet.  K.  Pirotta). 


Species  collected:    Hymeuophyliacese.. 
Cyatheaceae 
Polypodiaceai 
Lycopodiacese 


Cyatheaceae  . . . 
Polypodiaceae 


1 
1 

20 
2' 

24 


New  species     ...     4 

Cyathea  Sellae,  Piroffa  (ad.)  (int.). 

Woodsia  nivalis,,  Piroffa. 
Aspleuium  Ducis  Aprutii,  I'traffo. 
Elaphoglossuni  Kuwenzorii,  Piroffa 


Musci  (Auet.  Ct.  Negri). 

Species  collected        ...     38 
New  species   ...  ...     22 

Sphagnum  Aloysii  Sabaudia?,  Xcyri. 

Sphagnum  Kuwonzitrense,  Xei/ri. 

Dieranum  ])eti'(ipliilum,  Xe;/ri. 

Campylopus  sericeous,  A^cf/ri. 

Campylopus  Cagnii,  Xcf/ri. 

Fissidens  Mobukeiisis,  Xcgri. 


398 


Botanical  List. 

Musci — con  III. 
Leptdiiiitiuiii  ( Jamltariigan^i,  Xeyri. 
Tortuhi  Cavallii,  Xetjii. 
Auoectaiigiuiu  8ella3,  Act/rL 
Anoectangium  fuscum,  Xerjri. 
Anoectaiigiuni  Hexuosuin,  Xegri. 
Zygodon  Roceatii,  Xeijri 
Zygodon  hirsutum,  Xej/ri. 
Amphydium  Aloysii  Sabaudite,  X'cijri. 
Macrouiitiium  fragile,  Xe;/ri. 
Brachymenium  Caguii,  Xcfjii. 
Pohlia  Aloysii  Sabaiidite,  Xegri. 
Bryum  Sella?,  Xegri. 
Breutelia  auroiiitens,  Xegri. 
Catharinsea  Cavallii,  Negri. 
Polytrichum  cupreuni,  Xegri. 
Brachythecium  Roceatii,  Xegri. 

Hepaticae  (Auet.  G.  Gola) 

Species  collected :   Marchantiaceaj  sp.     ...          ...  ...  3 

Jungermaiiniacece  auakrogyna?  sp.  ...  4 

Jungermauniacese  akrogynae  sp.  ...  20 

sp.  33 
New  sjaecies     ...     16 

Marchantia  Cagiiii,  (Jnht. 
JNlarchaiitia  Sella:',  G(Au. 
Marchantia  papyracae,  Gola. 
Metzgeria  ruwenzorensis,  Gola. 
S3'mphogyna  Sellae,  Gola. 
Symphogyna  Aloysii  Sabaudia?,  Gula. 
Anastrophyllum  Gambaragarse,  Gola. 
Plagioeliila  lievifolia,  Gola. 
riagiochila  Aloy.sii  Sabaiidiae,  Gola. 
Lophocolea  Cagiiii,  iJlola. 
Bizzaiiia  Roceatii,  Gola. 
Blepharostomum  Cavallii,  Gula. 
Microlejemiea  magiiilobula,  Gola. 
Acrolejeutie.i  fiiscescens,  Gola. 

399 


Appendix  C. 


Hepaticae — rontd. 

Acrolejeunea  Roccatii,  Gala. 
Frullania  Cavallii,  Cola. 

Lichenes  (Aiut.  A.  Jatta). 

Species  collectcl    ...         ...     83 

New  species  ...      5  (var.  -i) 

Usiiea  arthroclada  Fee  v.  ruvidescens,  Jatta. 

Parraelia  Ducali.s,  Jatta. 

Anaptychia  leucomela  Tre.  v.  soredica,  Jatta. 

Caloplaca  citriuella,  Jatta. 

Pertusaria  Roccatii,  Jatta. 

Phlyctis  Ruwenzorensis,  Jatta. 

Cladouia  sciuamosa  Hffm.  v.  macra,  Jatta. 

Gyrophora  haplocurpa  Xyl.  v.  africana,  Jatta. 

Lecidea  Cagnii,  Jatta. 

Algae  (Auct.  G.  B.  Detoui  et  A.  Forti). 

Species  collected :    My xophyceje       ...         . . .  2  et  var.  1 

Clorophycese        ...  ...  ...     2 

Bacillariacea3       35  et  34  var.  et  form 

New  varieties  :        Navicula  borealis,  Kuetz. 
Var.  exilis,  Ik-toni  et  Forti. 
Suriraya  ovalis,  Bret). 
Yar.  eiiormis,  Detoni  cf  Forti. 

Fungi  (().  .Mattirolo). 
Species  collected     ...         ...     27 

New  genus  :     Aloysiella,  Mattirolo  et  Saccardo. 

New  species  :  Cha?toniella  Cavalli,  Mattirolo  (Spharopsideae). 

Aloysiella  ruwenzorensis,  Mattirolo  et  Saccardo  (Sphseriales). 
Hypoxylon  crassum,  Mattirolo  et  Saccardo  (Sphseriales). 
Cladoderris  Roccati,  Mattirolo  (Thelephorese). 
Favolaschia  Cagni,  }[attirolo  (Polyporea?). 
Psylocybe  Sella?,  Mattirolo  et  Bresadola  (Agaricineae). 

400 


I 


Botanical  List, 


SUMMARY^ 


Total 

of  the 

collected 

Species. 


Total 

of  the 

Varieties. 


New  New 

Genera.        Species. 


Now 

Varieties. 


Embryophyta  siphonogama 

Pteridophy ta ... 

Musci ... 

Hepaticae 

Lichenes 

Algfe 

Fungi ... 


93 
24 
38 
33 
83 
39 
27 

337 


35 


35 


18 

4 

22 

16 

5 

15 

1 

6 

16 


71 


401 


2  D 


MAGNETIC    OBSEPvVATIONS. 

Note. — During  the  expedition  of  H.R.H.  to  liuweiizori,  Commander  Cagni 
undertook  the  magnetic  readings,  esta])lishing  stations  at  eight  points  : 

Bujongolo,    Ibauda,   Fort    Portal,    Kichiomi,    Bimhya,    Entebbe,    Port 
Florence,  Mombasa. 

The  magnetic  instrument  used  b}'  him  for  the  readings  was  modelled,  not  quite 
successfully^  on  the  French  "  Brunner,"  aud  of  the  small  size  suited  for 
travelling.  This  defective  apparatus  made  the  observations  difficult  and 
fatitjuinu;. 

The  calculation  and  discussion  of  the  results  ol)tained  were  entrusted  to 
Prof.  L.  Palazzo,  Director  of  the  Central  Bureau  of  ISIeteorology,  in  Kome. 
This  specialist  was  fain  to  conclude  that,  in  order  to  derive  any  useful  data 
from  Cagni's  readings,  he  would  have  to  repeat  the  readings  with  the  instrument 
in  question  and  with  another  more  accurate,  in  one  at  least  of  the  places  where 
Cagni  had  established  magnetic  stations.  This  would  enable  him  to  obtain  a  point 
of  reference  which  would  l)e  useful  for  the  reduction  of  the  oliservations  made 
at  all  the  other  stations.  Fortunately  such  an  arrangement  is  now  rendered 
possible  l)y  the  circumstance  that  Prof.  Palazzo,  who  left  in  July  charged  with 
a  scientific  mission  to  Zanzibar,  proposes  to  land  on  the  way  at  Moml)asa,  and 
there  take  magnetic  readings,  Mombasa  being  one  of  the  magnetic  stations 
included  in  the  itinerary  of  the  Ruwenzori  Expedition.  In  this  way  there  is 
reason  to  hope  that  sufficiently  correct  and  practical  results  may  be  obtained 
from  Cagni's  magnetic  observations.  The  publication  of  these  observations  is 
thus  necessarily  delayed  till  Prof.  Palazzo's  return  from  his  mission.  They  will 
then  form  the  subject  of  a  separate  memoir,  which  will  l)e  published  either  in 
the  Annals  of  the  Koyal  Hydrographic  Institute,  or  in  those  of  the  Central 
Meteorological  Bureau. 


403 


ABRUZZI 


SO^EastGreen 


Points  Fixed    by  observat 
Points  Fixed  by  calculation 


ti^jF  F' Portal  and  Entebbe  are  based   upon    barometrical  observations  taken 
cal  garden  oF  Entebbe,  and  near  the  residence  oF  the  Collector  oF  F.  Portal 


I.. 


Route    OF   the    Expedition   oF   H  R  H    the    Duke   oF  the   ABRUZZI 
FROM        MOMBASA-     TO        RUWENZORI 

May    -    August         190S 


itthsHydrograph.lnst  of  I 


c 


jLat.  0°  20: 23"  North 
\  Long.SOMiSV'EastGreen" 


es  =  1  mile 

'■    Steep   Incline 


THE   PEAKS.  PASSES  AND   GLACIERS  OF 

A  SKETCH-MAP  BASED  UPON  THE  OBSERVATIONS    TAKEN  BY  THE  EXPEDITION  OF  H.R.H,  PRINCE  LOUIS  OF  SAVOY.  OUKE  Of  THE  ABRUZ2I 
in  the   months  of  June  and  July  1906 
E  Hyori>cr«phic«l  Institute  of  the  B'   It«e  Nai/y,  under  the  care  of  the  Director,  Co«».  M.GIAVOTTO  -  Ct«OA  1906 


I     (Lat.  0°  20: 23':  North 
^J°"9°'°lLong.30°i:3V:EastGreen'' 

58  inches  =  1  mile 


2  Miles 


ers  hed 
n  feet 


SEOLO@l@AlL   Sk^t'Qhi- Mia>p   or  THt  OENJTBJIL  eRO>yP  OF 

mw^^wm  m  m  -©  sj.  n 


by   A.  ROCCATI 


INDKX 


Abriizzi,  Duke  of,  his  associates,  29  ;  starts 
on  tlie  expedition,  32  ;  ai-rives  at  Entebbe, 
50  ;  leaves  for  RuWi'nzori,  09  ;  ascends 
Mobuku  Grlaeier,  178 ;  seales  the  higliest 
peaks  of  Eiuvenzori,  181-5,  180-0;  his 
work  on  the  central  group  of  peaks,  189 ; 
scales  Mt.  Speke,  239 ;  Mt.  Stanley  and 
numerous  passes,  243  seq.  ;  scales  the 
lolanda  Peak  of  Mt.  Gessi,  208. 

Albert  Edward,  Lake,  sighted  by  Stanley,  8  ; 
its  position  and  general  outline,  194  seq. 

Albert  Nyauza,  Luke,  its  basin  o\itlined,  194 
seq. 

Albert  Nyanza  explored  by  Gessi,  2. 

Alhertine  Valley,  105,  107,  194. 

Albertine  De])ression,  194  seq. 

Alexandra  Nile,  Stanley's,  6. 

Alexandra  Peak,  109;  186,  200,  241,  215, 
scaled  by  H.R.H.,  181-5  ;  scaled  by  Sella 
and  Roccati.  248 ;  its  cornices,  225. 

Ankole,  Kingdom  of,  o7. 

Ai'istotle,  his  •'  Mountain  of  Silver,"  4. 

B. 

Bahima  natives,  98,  99. 

Baker   Ml.    (Jolnistou's   Kiyanja),   153,   199, 

201,  257. 
Baker,  Sir  S.,  names  tlie  "Blue  Mountains," 

2,  242,  254. 
Bakorijo  tribe,  124,  125,  159. 
Baumann,    O.,   discovers   the  sources  of  tlie 

Kagera,    0 ;     his     "  Mountains    of     tlie 

Moon,"  6. 
Behrens,    T.    T.,   Iiis  aliimetric  observations, 

221. 
Bihunga,  115  seq.,  104,  202. 
Blue  Mountains,  the,  of  S.  Baker,  2. 
Botta,  E.,  photographer,  31,  142. 
Bottego  Peak,  238,  scaled  by  H.R.H.,  270. 
Brodierel,  J.,  porter,  30. 
Buamba  canijj,  132, 


Bujongolo  station,    132    seq.  :    return    from, 

2(il    seq. 
Bujuku  Lake,  232,  204. 
Bujuku  Valley,  124,  120,  178,  203. 
Butagu  Valley,  10,  11,  204. 
Butanuka  village,  118,  1(53. 
Butiti  camp,  93. 
Buvuma  Island,  52. 
Byndia,  282. 

C. 

Cagni,  LT.,  topographer  and  magneti(;  obser- 
ver, 29  ;  his  illness,  05  ;  rejoins  tlie 
expedition,  137,  103  ;  his  magnetic 
observations,  263. 

Cagni,  Mt.,  141,  202,  255,  250. 

Camp,  Nos.  I,  146  ;  II,  378  ;  III,  170  ;  IV, 
191,  192;  V,  135;  VI,  240;  IX,  200; 
X,  208  ;  XI,  275. 

Castellani,  Dr.  A.,  discoverer  of  the  Sleei)ing 
Sickness  germ,  51,  55. 

Cavalli  Pass,  202,  241. 

Chawa  River,  119. 

Climate  of  Ruwenzori,  20,  27  ;  of  Uganda, 
79,  80. 

Cornices,  a  chardcieristic  feature  of  the 
higher  ridges,  225. 


D. 

David,  J.  J.,  explores  Ruwenzori,  lo. 

Dawe,  M.  T.,  his  botanical  expedition,  15. 

Dueru,  Lake,  105. 

Duwona  camp,  100. 

Duwoni  Peak,  13,  113,  123,  147,  178. 


E. 

Kdward  Peak,  17,  132,  14(),  201,  219,  250,  258. 
Elena  Peak,   scaled   by    H.R.II.,   180-9,  200, 

234. 
Emin  Pasha,  joins  Stuhlniann's  ex])edition,  10. 


405 


Ind 


ex. 


Emin  Glacier,  241. 

Emin  Peak,  148,  199,  231  seq. 

Entebbe,  capital  of  Uganda,  16  ;  reached  by 
the  expedition,  55,  56  ;  description  of, 
58,  59;  its  meteorological  station,  217; 
return  of  the  expedition  fi-om,  282. 

F. 

Fauna  and  flora  of  Euwenzori,  228-30. 

Fisher,  A.  B.,  explores  Euwenzori,  14,  15, 
100. 

Fort  Porlal,  arrival  at,  97;  description  of, 
97 ;  route  to  Bujongolo,  100  seq. ;  its 
position,  105  ;  return  from,  281,  282. 

Freshfield,  D.  W.,  explores  Ruwenzori,  17. 

Freshfield  Pass,  167,  202,  243,  255,  258. 

G. 

Gessi,  Mt.,  148,  201,  202,  238,  242,  2.59,  270 ; 

scaled  by  H.R.H.,  268. 
Gessi,  R.,explorestlie  Albert  Nyanza,  2. 
Glaciers   on  Euwenzori,  12,   134,  147;    their 

great  extent  during  the  Ice  Age,  223-4; 

their    present    state,  224;   thciy  general 

character,  236,  237. 
Grant  Glacier,  240. 
Grauer,  E.,  explores  Euwenzori,  17. 
Grauer  Eock  and  Glacier,  145,  201. 
Grauer's  Camp,  158,  256  ;  Pass,  257. 


H. 

Hima  Valley,  109. 

Hugues,  Prof.  L.,  on   Ptolemy's   "  Mountains 
of  the  Moon,"  7;  and  Appendix  A. 


Ibanda  camp,  112,  113  ;  tlie  general  rendez- 
vous, 259,  265,  277. 

Igini,  I.,  the  cook,  31,  159. 

lolanda  Peak,  202,  23S ;  scaled  by  H.E  H., 
268;    Glacier,  2^6. 

Issango  river,  10. 

J. 

Johnston,  Sir  H.,  explores  Euwenzori,  12. 
Johnston  Peak,  201. 


K. 

Kagera  River,  discovery  of  its  sources,  6. 

Kampala,  Uganda,  59,  60. 

Kanjangungwe  Peak,  10. 

Kasongo  camp,  109. 

Kavirondo  Gulf,  46. 

Kavirondo  tribe,  44. 

Kenia,  Mt.,  its  discovery,  4. 

Kichuchu  camp,  128,  129. 

Kigessi-Kissongo,  Lake,  20S. 

Kiliniandjaro,  !Mt.,  its  discovery,  4. 

Kivu,  Lake,  194. 

Kiyanja  Peak  of  Johnston  (tlie  Semper  of 
Stuhlmann),  13,  140,  147,  152  ;  its 
glaciers,  166 ;  its  lakes  and  scenery, 
171,  172,  175. 

Kobokora,  Lake,  263. 

Kraepelin,  Mt,  10,  202. 

Krapf,  discovers  Kenia  and  Kiliniandjaro,  4. 

Kurungu  torrent,  266,  274. 


Lugard,  Capt.,  founds  Fort  Portal,  97. 
Luigi  di  Savoia,  Mt.,  153,  190,  191,  200,  202, 
251. 

M. 
Mahoma  river,  119. 
Manureggio  river,  275. 
Margherita  Peak,  109, 179  ;  scaled  by  H.R.H., 

181-85,  200,  269 ;  its  cornices,  225. 
Marinvis  of  Tyre,  quoted  by  Ptolemy,  4. 
Masai  tribe,  42. 
Meiigo,  Uganda,  59. 
Migusi  Valley,  266,  267,  268. 
Missossi  ya  Mwesi,  Baiuuauu's    "  Mountains 

of  the  Moon,"  6. 
Jlitiuna  camp,  90. 
Mobuku  Valley,  11,   12,  17,  100,    101  xeq.; 

route    taken    by  most   of  the  explorers, 

21;   Glacier,   17,   143,  178;  River,   111, 

120,  126. 
Moebius,  Mt.,  1(1,  200,  247. 
Molinelli,    Dr.    A.    C,    nu-  lical     nttnidant, 

29,  88. 
Mondjasa,  railway  terminus,  15,  37  ;  history 

of,  34,  35. 


40G 


Index 


Moon,     the     mountains    of,    Ptolemy's,    4 ; 

Speke's,   5;   identified   bj  Stanley  witli 

Ruwenzori,  5. 
Moore,  C.  S.,  explores  Rmvonzori,  11,  12. 
Moore  Peak,  146,  155,  201,  26S. 
Mpango  Valley,  106. 

X. 

Xaii'obi  railway  station,  41,  42. 
Naiwasha,  Lake,  194. 
Xakitawa  camp,  120. 
Xapoleon  Gulf,  52. 
Xfumbiro  Mt.,  Speke's,  5. 
Xgemwimbi  Peak,  10. 
Xile  Province,  57. 
North  Portal  Peaks,  266. 
Xyamwamba  Yaller,  11. 

O. 
Oilier,  C,  Alpine  guide,  30. 


Petigax,  J.,  Alpine  guide,  30. 
Petigax,  L.,  porter,  30. 
Port  Alice  (Entebbe),  57. 
Port  Florence,  railway  terminus,  16,  37. 
Portal  Peaks,  148,  203. 

Ptolemy,  liis  "  Mountains  of  the  Moon  " 
variously  identified,  5,  6. 

R. 

Rebmann  discovers  Kenia  and  Kilimandjaro, 
4. 

Rift  Valleys,  East  Africa,  194  seq. 

Roccati,  Dr.,  geologist  and  naturalist,  29, 
142,  190,  245  ;  his  geological  work,  263. 

Roccati  Pass,  202. 

Route  from  Entebbe  to  Fort  Portal,  70  stq., 
90 ;  from  Fort  Portal  to  Bujongolo,  100 
seq.  Route  followed  by  most  of  the 
explorers,  21. 

Rudolf  Province,  57. 

Rudolph  Lake,  194. 

Ruisamba,  Lake,  8,  105,  195. 

Ruwenzoi'i,  Mts.,  discovered  by  Stanley,  1  ; 
identified  by  him  vrith  the  "  Mountains 
of  the  Moon,"  5  ;  yariously  identified  by 
others.  7,  8  ;  explored  by  Stairs,  8  ;  by 
Stuhlmann,  10  ;  by  Scott  Elliot,  10  ; 
by  C.  S.  Moore,  11  ;  by  Fergusson, 
Bagge,  Doggett,  Vale,  Johnston,  Wyldc, 


War.l,  David,  Freshfield,  Mumm, 
Clraiu>r,  Tegart,  Maddox,  Woosnam, 
WoUaston,  Dent,  Legge,  and  Carruthers, 
14-19;  table  of  its  explorations  from 
1888  to  1906,  20,  21  ;  its  highest  peaks, 
24,  179-85,  199  seq. ;  its  glaciers  and 
passes,  202  ;  its  cornices,  225-27  ; 
climate  of,  27,  28,  227;  first  sight  of,  93  ; 
its  main  features,  193  seq. ;  its  drainage 
areas,  195  ;  its  nomenclature,  195,  196  ; 
its  position  and  general  trend,  199  ;  its 
watershed,  203;  its  river  basins,  203; 
its  explorers  prior  to  II.R.U.  204  seq.; 
table  of  the  errors  made  in  the  identi- 
fication of  its  peaks,  218,  219  ;  compara- 
tive tables  of  heights  taken  by  various 
ob.-ervers,  220,  221  ;  its  non-volcanic 
origin,  222  ;  its  snow  line,  227  ;  terrace 
formations  of  its  fluvial  valleys,  227,  228  ; 
its  flora  and  fauna,  228-30 ;  panoramic 
photographs  of  the  whole  range,  268, 
269 ;  all  the  ascents  of  the  range  made 
by  the  expedition  tabulated,  278-80  ; 
return  of  the  expedition,  281,  282. 


Savoia  Peak,  scaled  by  H.R.H.,  186-9;    its 

height,  200. 
Scott  Elliot  explores  Ruwenzori,  10,  11. 
Scott  Elliot  Pass,  176,  202,  232,  239,  242,  264. 
Sella  v.,  photographer,  29,  88,  142,  190,  245. 
Sella  Peak,  202,  251,  252. 
Semliki   river,   tlie   Issango  of   Emin  Pasha, 

10,  195,  204,  250,  270. 
Semper  Peak,  10,  13,  147,  152,  201. 
Sesse  Islands,  Lake  Victoria,  55. 
Sibyl  steamer  on  Lake  Victoria,  46,  282. 
Sleeping  Sickness  in  L'ganda,  52,  53. 
Snow  line  of  Ruwenzori,  227. 
South  Portal  Peak,  255. 
Speke  Glacier,  235. 
Speke,    Mt.,    109,    148,    199,    201,   231    .seq  ; 

scaled    by    H.R.H.,    239  ;       its    rocky 

monolith,  266,  274. 
Stairs,  Lt.,  explores  Ruwenzori,  8. 
Stairs  Peak,  202  ;  scaled  by  H.R.H.,  2.55,  258. 
Stanley,    H.    M.,    discovers    Ruwenzori,    1  ; 

identifies  it  with  the  "  Mountains  of  the 

Moon,"  5. 


401 


Index. 


Stanley,  Mt,.,  110,  14S,  200;  iii.-liulcs  llio 
highest,  peaks:  Margherita,  Alexandra, 
Elena  and  Savoia,  200. 

Stulilmann,  F.,  explores  Riiwenzori,  10. 

Stiililmanu  Pass,  202,  232,  242. 

Suahili  natives,  82. 

T. 

Table  of  Ruwenzori  explorers  prior  to 
H.R.II.,  dates,  heights,  and  routes,  20, 
21 ;  table  of  all  the  Ruwenzori  heights 
ascended  by  the  expedition,  278-80. 

Table  showing  the  errors  made  by  various 
explorers  in  identifying  the  peaks, 
218,  219. 

Tables,  comparative,  of  lieights  taken  by 
various  explorers,  220,  221. 

Tanganika,  Lake,  194. 

Terrace  formations  of  the  Ruwenzori  river 
valleys,  227,  228. 

Thomson,  Mt.,  199  ;  glacier,  200. 

Toro,  Kingdom  of,  57. 

U. 

Uganda  wasted  by  the  Sleeping  Sickness,  53  ; 
extent  of,  57,  58;  its  Kabaka  (King), 
61 ;  constitution  of,  Gl  ;  former  misrule, 

62,  63  ;  spread  of  Christianity  and  Islam, 

63,  64  ;  natives  of,  74-76,  80-82. 


Umbortu  Tcik,  202;   scaled  by  U.R.H.,  242  ; 

glacier,   241,  242. 
Unyoro,  Kingdom  of,  57. 


V. 


Victoria  Nyanza,  railway  to,  1(>,  37,  3S,  39. 
Vitlorio    Emanuele    Peak,    201,     238,    2.39; 
scaled  by  n.R.lI.,243,  247. 


W. 


Waigga    glacier,  266. 

"VVa-Kikuyu,  tribe,  42. 

Weismann  Peak,  10,  202,  253. 

Wimi  Valley,  11,  107,  204. 

If'iiiifred,  steamer  on  Lake  Victoria,  46. 

Winspeare,  E.,  topographer,  29,  33  ;  returns 

to  Europe,  36. 
WoUaston,   A.  F.  R.,  and    II.  B.  Woosnam 

explore  Ruwenzori,  17,  18,  19. 
WoUaston  Peak,  146,  201,  256,  257. 
Wylde,  W.  H.,  explores  Ruwenzori,  14. 


Y. 


Yeria   Valley,  11,'  201. 
Yolanda,  see  lohnula. 


^tAKKlSON   AM)  SONS,    PK(X1'KKS   l.N    oKDINAHV   TO   HIS   MAJKSTY,   ST,    .MARTIN  »  LANK,    LONDON,    W,C, 


APR  2  9  1986 


D     000  298  257     7       ^ 


r.RENTA>0'S 

ukwUrro  k  SUtlonrr*, 

New  York. 


